In the vibrant and often crowded arena of independent watchmaking, it takes a clear vision and an uncompromising commitment to craft to make a significant mark. For the young Swiss Maison GUEBLY, a brand founded on the discerning principles of a passionate collector, its second major release is not merely an iteration but a powerful declaration of intent. The GUEBLY CH1 Rétrograde emerges one year after the brand’s debut, showcasing a remarkable evolution in design, mechanical complexity, and artistic collaboration. It is a timepiece that eschews fleeting trends in favor of a deeply considered synthesis of modern architecture and traditional artisanal skills.
The journey of the CH1 Rétrograde began with a fundamental re-evaluation of the brand's foundational design language. GUEBLY enlisted the renowned watch designer Éric Giroud to reimagine the entire architecture of the timepiece. This was not a simple facelift but a root-and-branch reconstruction, examining every aspect from the case geometry and dial display to the overall proportions and ergonomics. The objective was clear: to craft a collector’s piece defined by its coherence, where every element feels purposeful and executed to the highest possible standard of horological excellence.
Courtesy of Guebly
This collaboration resulted in a case that is both visually arresting and technically sophisticated. Machined from grade 5 titanium, the material choice immediately signals a contemporary approach. Titanium is prized for its high strength-to-weight ratio, making the watch surprisingly light on the wrist, and its hypoallergenic properties ensure comfort. But it is the form, not just the material, that captivates. The case is constructed with 23 distinct sculpted facets, creating an intricate play of light and shadow that shifts with the slightest movement. This complex geometry gives the watch a bold, architectural silhouette that feels both modern and perfectly balanced.
The finishing of the titanium case further enhances its dynamic character. A sophisticated combination of microbead-frosting, perlage, polishing, satin-brushing, and chamfering is applied across the various facets. This meticulous surface treatment is not merely decorative; it serves to highlight the sharp lines and subtle curves of Giroud’s design. The visible screws that secure the bezel to the case add a technical, almost industrial counterpoint to the refined finishing, grounding the design with an air of mechanical honesty. The dimensions—a 42 mm diameter, a thickness of 10.56 mm, and a compact lug-to-lug length of 44.32 mm—are carefully considered to provide substantial presence without sacrificing wearability for a range of wrist sizes.
While the case provides the architectural frame, the dial is where the CH1 Rétrograde reveals its artistic soul. It is a canvas for rare and demanding crafts, beginning with a solid base of 925 sterling silver. This precious metal foundation is then entrusted to the master craftsman Bernard Van Ormelingen for hand-guilloché work. The pattern is not a traditional hobnail or sunburst but a mesmerizing spiral motif inspired by the organic forms of wind-shaped desert dunes. This intricate engraving creates a sense of depth and movement, with light dancing across its undulating surface, ensuring the dial offers a new visual experience from every angle.
Courtesy of Guebly
The centerpiece of the dial's functionality is the retrograde seconds complication, positioned prominently in an arc at 6 o’clock. Unlike a conventional seconds hand that sweeps a full circle, this hand traverses a 120° arc over the course of 30 seconds before instantly snapping back to its starting position to begin the journey anew. This constant, rhythmic performance is a piece of mechanical theater, a captivating expression of the complex engineering that lies beneath. It is a complication that serves no practical purpose over a standard seconds hand, yet its inclusion is a testament to the watch’s focus on the poetic and engaging aspects of timekeeping.
Elevating the retrograde display is an appliqué crafted from white gold, which serves as the scale for the seconds. This component is a masterpiece in its own right, featuring champlevé Grand Feu enamel executed by the specialist Maëlle Constant. The champlevé technique involves carving troughs into the gold base, which are then filled with powdered enamel and fired at extremely high temperatures. The process is repeated multiple times to build up layers of rich, permanent color. It is a perilous and ancient art form with a high failure rate, and its successful application here adds a discreet but incredibly precious touch of vibrant white against the dynamic blue of the main dial.
The hands and indices are crafted with the same meticulous attention to detail. The hour and minute hands are made from grade 5 titanium, shaped and then painstakingly satin-finished and beveled by hand. The retrograde seconds hand, also titanium, is carefully shaped to ensure it is perfectly balanced for its high-speed return journey every half-minute. The applied indices and logo, crafted from gold, are also satin-finished and beveled, creating a cohesive visual language across the dial. For legibility in low light, components are accented with a blue-hued Super-LumiNova, a modern touch that complements the watch's overall color scheme.
Turning the watch over reveals an equally compelling view through the sapphire crystal caseback. The Caliber 21.31 automatic movement is a complete re-engineering of its base, developed in a close partnership between Sylvain Pinaud of Horocraft and Christophe Beuchat. This is not an off-the-shelf caliber with a custom rotor; it is a movement that has been fundamentally reworked to align with GUEBLY’s aesthetic and technical standards. It is a testament to the brand’s commitment that it sources expertise from some of the most respected names in the independent scene.
Courtesy of Guebly
The movement's architecture is immediately striking due to the extensive use of grade 5 titanium for its bridges and mainplate. This is an uncommon and challenging material to use in movement construction, as it is more difficult to machine and finish than traditional brass. However, its use imparts a modern, technical aesthetic and reduces the overall weight of the watch, which totals a mere 59 grams. The cool, matte grey of the microbead-blasted titanium provides a stunning backdrop for the other components.
A micro-rotor, crafted from solid 5N yellow gold, provides the winding power. Its position, recessed into the movement architecture, allows for a slimmer profile and an unobstructed view of the intricate workings. The contrast between the warm, polished gold of the rotor and the industrial grey of the titanium bridges is a core part of the movement’s visual identity. This rotor is, like every other part, decorated by hand to the highest standards.
The finishing of the Caliber 21.31 is a masterclass in traditional haute horlogerie techniques. The decoration of the bridges and plates, handled by Nathalie Jean-Louis, includes fine microbeading, perlage, and sharp, hand-polished bevels, or anglage. The movement boasts a total of eight inward angles, which are notoriously difficult to execute perfectly and are considered a true hallmark of an expert finisher’s skill. These sharp interior corners cannot be polished by machine and must be meticulously carved and burnished by hand with specialized tools.
Further details abound for those who look closely. The barrel and ratchet wheel feature a spiral-graining finish, and all visible screws, pins, and springs are mirror-polished by hand to a flawless black sheen. The plates of the gear train wheels are circular-grained, and their pinions and axles are hardened and burnished for durability and efficiency. Comprising 217 components and 35 jewels, the movement operates at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a robust power reserve of 70 hours, meaning it can be set down over a weekend and will still be running on Monday morning.
Courtesy of Guebly
This level of collaborative artistry is a defining characteristic of the modern independent watchmaking movement. GUEBLY serves as a conductor, bringing together a symphony of specialized talents to create a unified whole. With design by Éric Giroud, dial production and movement components by Horocraft, guilloché by Bernard Van Ormelingen, enameling by Maëlle Constant, decoration by Nathalie Jean-Louis, and final casing performed by the legendary Voutilainen & Cattin SA, the CH1 Rétrograde carries an incredible pedigree of craftsmanship from a veritable who's who of the industry.
To ensure the watch is a comfortable and practical companion for daily wear, considerable thought was given to the strap. Created by Atelier Jean Rousseau, it is made from a grained blue calfskin that perfectly matches the dial, but it is lined with a blue rubber layer. This combination offers the sophisticated look of leather with the durability, sweat-resistance, and comfort of rubber, making it suitable for a variety of conditions. The water resistance of the case is rated to 100 meters (10 ATM), reinforcing its status as a versatile, everyday timepiece.
The strap also features an integrated quick-release system, allowing the owner to change it easily without tools. The closure system is a modern interpretation of practicality, pairing a simple and secure Velcro strap with a custom pin buckle machined from grade 5 titanium and finished by hand. This choice is unconventional but aligns perfectly with the watch's ethos of blending high-end craft with modern functionality and comfort.
The GUEBLY CH1 Rétrograde is a clear statement of the brand's identity. It is a watch that exists at the intersection of past and future, where age-old artisanal techniques like Grand Feu enamel and hand-guilloché are housed within a progressive, architectural titanium form. It is a piece designed for the true connoisseur, for the individual who appreciates the subtle complexities of a hand-finished internal angle as much as the immediate visual impact of a dynamic dial.
Courtesy of Guebly
This is a watch that confidently asserts that the most enduring creations are those anchored in authentic craftsmanship and driven by a clear, innovative vision. It is a convergence of artistic talent, mechanical ingenuity, and an unwavering dedication to quality. The CH1 Rétrograde demonstrates GUEBLY's deep understanding of what makes horology compelling: the meticulous attention to detail, the celebration of human skill, and the creation of a beautiful mechanical object that connects its owner to a rich tradition of artistry.
The GUEBLY CH1 Rétrograde is being produced in a strictly limited edition of just 80 pieces, a number that underscores its exclusivity and the time-intensive, artisanal nature of its creation. This rarity, combined with the roster of esteemed craftspeople involved in its production, positions it as a significant piece within the independent landscape. The watch is priced at CHF 38,900, reflecting the exceptional level of hand-craftsmanship, complex mechanics, and premium materials that define every aspect of its being. For the 80 collectors who will have the opportunity to own one, it offers a direct connection to a network of the finest artisans working in watchmaking today.
Case: Grade 5 titanium, 23-facet construction. Diameter: 42 mm, Thickness: 10.56 mm, Lug-to-lug: 44.32 mm. Domed sapphire crystals (front and back) with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM). Total watch weight: 59 g.
Movement: Caliber 21.31, self-winding with 5N gold micro-rotor. Grade 5 titanium bridges and mainplate. Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde seconds at 6 o’clock (30-second reset). Power reserve: 70 hours. Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Jewels: 35. Components: 217.
Dial: Blue dial on a 925 sterling silver base with hand-guilloché "dune" pattern. Grade 5 titanium hands. White gold retrograde appliqué with white Grand Feu enamel. Indexes and logo are gold appliqués. Blue Super-Luminova accents.
Strap: Blue grained calfskin leather with a blue rubber lining. Features a Quick Release system. Fastens with a Velcro closure and a hand-finished grade 5 titanium pin buckle.
Price: CHF 38,900
Notes: Limited edition of 80 pieces. Features collaborations with renowned specialists: design by Éric Giroud, movement by Sylvain Pinaud, Grand Feu enamel by Maëlle Constant, and hand-guilloché by Bernard Van Ormelingen.