The resurgence of 1970s design cues in modern watchmaking is a trend that shows no signs of slowing down, yet few brands have the authentic historical catalog to back it up quite like Eberhard & Co. In a bold move that honors a specific era of creativity and resilience, the Swiss Maison has introduced the CONTODAT "Un fil orange" collection. This release is not merely a reissue of a vintage reference but a complete reimagining of a philosophy that was first established by Palmiro Monti during a tumultuous period for the mechanical watch industry. The new collection arrives with a confident blend of nostalgia and modern manufacturing, offering a distinct aesthetic that bridges the gap between the groovy, colorful experimentalism of the seventies and the demand for robust, integrated sports watches in the current market.
The historical context of this release is paramount to understanding its significance, as it harkens back to the second half of the 1970s when the quartz crisis was reshaping the landscape of Swiss horology. Palmiro Monti, who had taken over the leadership of Eberhard & Co. in 1969, responded to the changing times not by retreating, but by pushing forward with mechanical innovation wrapped in contemporary design. The original timepiece that inspires today's release was born from this spirit of defiance, featuring vivid color contrasts and orange accents that signaled a departure from strict traditionalism. This new collection revives that energy, using the color orange as a symbolic thread—or "un fil orange"—that weaves through the design language, connecting the brand's past acts of courage with its present vision.
Courtesy of Eberhard & Co.
At the core of the CONTODAT collection is a versatile 39mm stainless steel case that strikes a balance between vintage proportions and modern wrist presence. The case architecture is sophisticated, utilizing an interplay of finishes that highlights the geometric complexity of the design. Satin-finished surfaces dominate the top of the case, absorbing light to give the watch a purposeful, tool-like appearance, while polished profiles along the edges and bezel add a layer of refinement that catches the eye. This alternation of textures is not just a stylistic choice but a demonstration of manufacturing prowess, ensuring that the watch feels lively and dynamic on the wrist without appearing overly flashy.
The most notable structural feature of this new line is the integration of the bracelet, marking the first time in the Maison's current lineup that a watch has been conceived exclusively with this configuration. The transition from the case to the bracelet is seamless, creating a unified silhouette that flows naturally around the wrist. The lugs themselves are sharply defined, sloping downwards to meet the bracelet links in a way that minimizes the gap and enhances the ergonomic fit. This integrated approach speaks to the "sport-chic" genre that has become a staple in luxury watch collecting, yet Eberhard & Co. manages to execute it with a unique flair that feels distinct from the ubiquitous designs often seen in this category.
Beneath the sculpted, domed sapphire crystal, the dials of the CONTODAT models reveal a wealth of detail that rewards close inspection. The collection is split into two distinct mechanical personalities: the CONTODAT CHRONOGRAPHE and the CONTODAT AUTOMATIC. The chronograph version is particularly striking, featuring a bi-compax layout that immediately draws attention with its symmetry and use of color. The dials are finished with a "soleil" or sunburst effect in the central area, which radiates outward and changes tone depending on the lighting conditions. This is contrasted by a perimeter area featuring a satin finish, which houses a tachymeter scale calibrated to 1000 units—a nod to the automotive heritage often associated with chronographs of this era.
The layout of the chronograph sub-dials is both functional and historically significant. Positioned at 3 and 9 o'clock, the counters feature an "azuré" or snailed finish in the center, bordered by a circular satin edge that adds depth and texture. The minute counter at 3 o'clock is of particular interest to enthusiasts, as it includes a special scale allowing for a reading extension from 30 up to 45 minutes. This 45-minute indication is a direct homage to Palmiro Monti’s original design, preserving a quirk of the past that sets this movement configuration apart from standard 30-minute counters. The vivid orange accents on the "index conique" counter hands and the central chronograph seconds hand provide the "pop" that defines the "Un fil orange" theme, ensuring legibility while injecting a sense of fun into the display.
Courtesy of Eberhard & Co.
The date window on both models is another standout feature, faithfully recreating the distinctive trapezoidal shape found on the 1970s ancestor. On the chronograph, this window is positioned at 6 o'clock, maintaining the vertical symmetry of the dial. The aperture is framed by an applied outline that matches the hour markers, elevating the date from a mere utility to a considered design element. The execution of the date wheel is clean and legible, integrating well with the rest of the dial furniture without disrupting the visual balance. It is these small, granular details—like the specific geometry of a date window—that often serve as the handshake between a brand and a knowledgeable collector.
Turning to the CONTODAT AUTOMATIC, the "time-only" variation offers a cleaner, perhaps more dress-oriented take on the sporty aesthetic. Here, the dial layout shifts to an asymmetric but balanced configuration. The small continuous seconds counter is located at 9 o'clock, while the trapezoidal date window sits opposite at 3 o'clock. This arrangement leaves the vertical axis of the dial open, allowing the sunburst finish to take center stage. The automatic version is available in a wider array of dial colors, including a deep black, a sophisticated grey, and a blue that is notably brighter than the shade used on the chronograph. Each version retains the signature orange touches, which appear on the small seconds hand and minute track markers, ensuring the collection's DNA remains intact across all references.
The hands on these watches are a completely new design for Eberhard & Co., developed specifically to complement the strong lines of the case. They are "bâton" type skeletons, rhodium-plated and constructed with a multi-level structure that adds three-dimensionality to the dial. The central section of the hands houses luminescent material, ensuring that the watch remains functional in low-light environments. The meticulous finishing on the hands, with their mix of surfaces, mirrors the case finishing and demonstrates a cohesive design language that permeates every component of the watch.
Courtesy of Eberhard & Co.
The bracelet construction deserves its own detailed examination, as it represents a significant engineering effort. Rather than relying on traditional spring bars, the attachment system uses a dedicated pin mechanism with an integrated end link. This technical choice results in greater solidity and tensile strength, addressing a common weak point in bracelet watches. The flexibility of the links has been optimized to ensure the bracelet drapes comfortably over the wrist, avoiding the stiffness that can sometimes plague integrated designs. The visual flow of the bracelet continues the theme of alternating satin and polished finishes, catching the light in a rhythmic pattern as the wrist moves.
Securing the watch is the exclusive 2CLICK® clasp, a two-button system designed for maximum security and ease of use. The clasp is not just a functional necessity but a branded touchpoint, personalized with the Maison's emblem, the Shield. The relief of the shield is echoed in the design of the inner blades, a subtle detail that is only visible to the owner when the watch is off the wrist. This attention to the "hidden" aspects of the watch suggests a commitment to quality that goes beyond surface-level aesthetics.
Flipping the watch over reveals a solid steel caseback that is screw-in and personalized with engravings that carry deep emotional weight for the brand. The central area features a satin finish, surrounded by a polished perimeter, continuing the textural contrast found on the rest of the case. The engraving reads "UBI TU IBI EGO," a Latin phrase translating to "Where you will be, there I will be." This motto is a promise of continuity and loyalty, reinforcing the idea that an Eberhard & Co. watch is a companion for life's journey. The gold-filled engraving adds a touch of warmth to the cool steel, serving as a private reminder of the bond between the watch and its wearer.
Technical specifications for the movement indicate reliable Swiss mechanics that align with the brand's history of precision. The chronograph model is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement featuring a central chrono seconds hand and the previously mentioned 30-minute counter extended to 45 minutes. The automatic model runs on a mechanical self-winding caliber focused on reliable timekeeping with a small seconds display. Both movements are housed within a case that offers 100 meters of water resistance, a standard that firmly categorizes these watches as capable sports instruments suitable for daily wear and aquatic activities.
Courtesy of Eberhard & Co.
The crown and pushers further emphasize the sporty functionality of the CONTODAT line. The crown is screw-down and water-resistant, personalized with a relief "E" logo. On the chronograph, the pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock are cylindrical and polished, offering a tactile response that is crisp and satisfying. The cylindrical shape is a nod to vintage chronograph pushers, avoiding the overly complex shapes of some modern sports watches in favor of a classic, industrial look that prioritizes ease of operation.
The choice of dial colors across the collection allows for a high degree of personal expression. The "Un fil orange" collection offers variations that range from the overtly sporty to the understated. The "sport" version of the silver dial (.04) on the chronograph, for example, incorporates additional orange on the indexes, amplifying the retro-racing vibe. Meanwhile, the green and blue versions offer rich, saturated tones that pair beautifully with the steel case, creating a jewel-like effect that elevates the watch from a mere tool to a luxury accessory. The "Argenté" or silver dials offer a monochromatic base that allows the orange accents to pop most dramatically, offering a high-contrast look that is very legible.
The crystal protecting these dials is a sculpted, domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment applied to the inside. The domed profile is essential for capturing the vintage feel, distorting the dial edge slightly at extreme angles in a way that mimics acrylic crystals of the past, but with the scratch resistance of modern sapphire. The anti-reflective coating ensures that despite the dome, the dial remains clear and readable under harsh lighting, showcasing the intricate finishing of the hands and indices without distracting glare.
In terms of dimensions, the 11.30mm thickness of the automatic version makes it an incredibly cuff-friendly option, sliding easily under a shirt sleeve. The chronograph, naturally slightly thicker at 13.90mm due to the movement complexity, still maintains a compact profile relative to many modern chronographs which often exceed 15mm. This restraint in sizing is a welcome feature, acknowledging that a 39mm diameter works best when paired with a proportional thickness, maintaining the "compact design" ethos mentioned by the brand.
Courtesy of Eberhard & Co.
The CONTODAT collection serves as a testament to the vision of Barbara Monti, the current CEO, and Mario Peserico, the General Manager. Their quotes regarding the release highlight a desire to create something that is not just a "remake" but a "true act of loyalty" to mechanical watchmaking. By revisiting the work of Palmiro Monti, they are acknowledging that the brand's strength lies in its ability to adapt and persevere. The collection feels like a conversation between two eras of the company, united by a shared respect for mechanical ingenuity and distinctive design.
For those interested in acquiring a piece of this revived history, the pricing and availability are positioned competitively within the luxury segment. The CONTODAT CHRONOGRAPHE is priced at 3980 €, reflecting the complexity of the chronograph mechanism and the detailed finishing. The CONTODAT AUTOMATIC is available for 2860 €, offering a more accessible entry point into the collection for those who prefer a simpler dial layout. Both models come with the full integrated steel bracelet and the assurances of Eberhard & Co.'s Swiss manufacturing. These pieces are expected to be available through authorized retailers, inviting collectors to experience the "Un fil orange" philosophy firsthand.
Case: Stainless steel construction with alternating satin and polished finishes; 39mm diameter; thickness of 13.90mm (Chronograph) and 11.30mm (Automatic); screw-down crown personalized with "E" in relief; polished steel bezel; domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside; water resistance of 100 meters; screw-in caseback personalized with golden engravings and the Latin phrase “UBI TU IBI EGO”.
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement; Chronograph version features 2 counters (30-minute at 3 o'clock, small seconds at 9 o'clock) and date at 6 o'clock; Automatic version features small continuous seconds at 9 o'clock and date at 3 o'clock.
Dial: "Soleil" finish on central area with "azuré" or satin perimeter; available in blue, green, and "argenté" (both models), plus grey and black (Automatic only); trapezoidal date window with applique outline; "bâton" type skeleton hands with luminescence; orange accents on hands and indexes; Chronograph minute counter features special scale extending reading from 30 to 45 minutes.
Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with alternating satin and polished finishes; attachment system uses pins instead of spring bars; equipped with two-button 2CLICK® clasp personalized with the Maison's Shield emblem.
Price: 3980 € (Chronograph) / 2860 € (Automatic)
Reference Number: 31156 (Chronograph) / 41156 (Automatic)
Notes: The collection revives a design from the 1970s by Palmiro Monti; the "fil orange" theme connects the vintage inspiration to the modern release; the 45-minute scale on the chronograph counter is a direct homage to the original model's unique design quirk.