In the extensive timeline of Swiss watchmaking, few names can claim a continuous history stretching back to the early 18th century. Favre Leuba, founded in 1737, is one such name, a brand whose legacy is woven into the very fabric of horology. For a company with 288 years of archives, introducing a "first" is a monumental occasion. That moment has arrived with the launch of the Chief Skeleton, the first fully skeletonized timepiece in the brand’s long and storied history. This introduction signals a new chapter for the watchmaker, one that builds on its pioneering spirit with a bold, contemporary mechanical expression.
This new direction is part of a calculated push into more complex watchmaking. The Chief Skeleton arrives hot on the heels of the Chief Tourbillon, which was the brand’s first-ever tourbillon model launched earlier this year. As Patrik Hoffmann, Chairman of Favre Leuba, explains, the strategy is about building on a legacy of innovation. "2025 is about maintaining the momentum and continuing to build on Favre Leuba’s pioneering legacy," he states. "We introduce some of the most technically intricate and visually striking timepieces in our history." The Chief Skeleton is presented as a natural progression, a new milestone that honors the brand's heritage while confidently striding into the future.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
The foundation for this new model is the brand’s Chief collection, which itself draws inspiration from a distinctive case design of the 1970s. The Chief Skeleton revives this iconic cushion-shaped silhouette, a form that is neither purely round nor square, giving it a unique wrist presence. This retro-futuristic shape provides the perfect frame for the thoroughly modern mechanics housed within. By choosing a familiar case design, Favre Leuba creates a bridge between its past and its present, ensuring the new watch is immediately recognizable as part of the family, even as it breaks new ground.
The case of the Chief Skeleton is a study in texture and light. Measuring 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.76mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 47.59mm, its proportions are contemporary and well-suited for a variety of wrists. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the case construction employs a sophisticated mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The flat planes are typically brushed, creating a soft, satin-like sheen, while the beveled edges are polished to a mirror-like finish. This contrast creates a dynamic visual effect, as the watch catches and reflects light from different angles, highlighting the unique curves of the cushion shape.
For those seeking a more modern and understated aesthetic, a second version of the case is available. This variant is also made from 316L stainless steel but is coated in a black chrome Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) finish. This coating provides a hard, scratch-resistant surface with a deep, menacing black hue. Even with this stealthy finish, the interplay between brushed and polished surfaces is maintained, adding a layer of subtle complexity to the otherwise monochromatic case. The 22mm lug width ensures a solid stance on the wrist, anchoring the intricate mechanics within.
To protect the open-worked movement and provide a clear view into its mechanical heart, the watch is fitted with a curved sapphire crystal. This crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating, which is crucial for a skeletonized watch. By minimizing glare and reflections, the coating ensures that the owner can appreciate the depth and detail of the movement from any angle without obstruction. The case is water-resistant to 10 atmospheres, or 100 meters, a practical feature that ensures the Chief Skeleton is not just a piece of mechanical art but a robust timepiece ready for daily wear.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal caseback, offering a second perspective on the intricate movement architecture. The caseback is screwed down, securing the watch against the elements and providing an uninterrupted view of the custom rotor in action. The crown, positioned at 3 o'clock, is substantial and easy to grip, featuring an embossed Favre Leuba monogram, a small but significant detail that reinforces the brand's identity.
The centerpiece of the Chief Skeleton is, without question, its movement. This is not an off-the-shelf caliber with material removed; it is a custom-designed, exclusive self-winding movement developed in collaboration with the specialists at AMT. The entire architecture was conceived from the ground up to be skeletonized, ensuring that every bridge, gear, and opening is crafted for both structural integrity and visual harmony. The result is a multi-layered mechanical landscape that invites the eye to explore its depths.
Two distinct versions of the movement are offered, designated FLS01 and FLS02. The FLS01 features bridges finished in a warm 4N18 gold tone. This finish gives the watch a classic yet striking appearance, with the golden components standing out brilliantly against the backdrop of the case and strap. The finishing on these bridges is meticulous, employing a variety of techniques to create contrast and texture. Adouci brushing on the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock bridges provides a soft, linear grain, while colimaçon, or snailing, creates a delicate spiral pattern on other surfaces, adding a refined circular texture.
The FLS02 movement takes a different approach, with its bridges finished in a dark, industrial black chrome. This anthracite finish offers a more contemporary and technical look, especially when housed within the matching black DLC case. The same high-level finishing techniques are applied, but the darker tone creates a more subtle interplay of light and shadow. Sandblasted surfaces are also used across both movement versions, providing a matte, granular texture that contrasts sharply with the brushed and snailed components.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
The layout of the movement is both logical and visually engaging. At the 12 o’clock position, the mainspring barrel is semi-exposed, allowing a glimpse of the coiled spring that stores the watch’s energy. Opposite this, at the 6 o’clock position, the balance wheel oscillates steadily, the beating heart of the watch. Holding the balance wheel in place is a custom-designed balance bridge with a distinct horizontal brushing. Favre Leuba notes this bridge is an exclusive design, a unique signature that sets their skeleton movement apart.
The technical performance of the movement matches its aesthetic complexity. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a modern standard that contributes to better timekeeping accuracy. When fully wound, the movement provides a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. It runs on 27 jewels, synthetic rubies that reduce friction at critical pivot points, ensuring the longevity and reliability of the intricate gear train.
Powering the movement is a skeletonized custom rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback. The open-worked design of the rotor mirrors the aesthetic of the bridges on the dial side and serves a practical purpose by reducing its mass, allowing it to spin more freely. The rotor is finished with a sunray brushing that radiates from the center, and it is engraved with the Favre Leuba wordmark. Critically, the rotor is color-matched to the movement: the FLS01 gets a 4N gold-tone rotor, while the FLS02 is paired with a black chrome DLC-finished rotor, creating a cohesive and unified design.
Despite its complex, open-worked nature, telling time on the Chief Skeleton is straightforward. The functions are limited to the essential hours and minutes. A floating minute track circles the periphery of the dial, providing a clear scale for the hands. This track is offered in several colors, including green, blue, black, and a striking ice blue, allowing for a degree of personalization. The applied hour indexes are rhodium-plated for a bright, metallic finish and are filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1, a high-performance luminescent material.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
The hands are similarly designed for legibility. They are also rhodium-plated and feature a combination of a polished finish and a sandblasted groove running down the center, adding another layer of textural detail. Like the indexes, the hands are generously filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1, which emits a strong blue glow in low-light conditions. This ensures that the watch remains perfectly readable whether in broad daylight or complete darkness.
Favre Leuba has paid close attention to the watch's wearability and versatility. The Chief Skeleton comes fitted with an integrated FKM rubber strap. FKM is a high-performance fluoroelastomer known for its durability, resistance to chemicals and high temperatures, and comfortable feel against the skin. The strap is designed to integrate seamlessly with the lines of the cushion-shaped case, creating a unified and sporty look. It is secured by a traditional pin buckle, which is branded with the Favre Leuba logo.
To enhance its adaptability, the strap is equipped with an easy-change mechanism. This system allows the owner to swap straps quickly and without the need for tools, making it simple to change the look of the watch. The color of the rubber strap is matched to the color of the minute track, creating a coordinated and deliberate design. This combination of a robust, comfortable strap and a quick-change system makes the Chief Skeleton a practical choice for a wide range of activities and occasions.
The collection is launched with two primary configurations that serve as the foundation for the different colorways. The first pairs the stainless steel case with the gold-finished FLS01 movement. This combination is available with a green, blue, or black minute track and a matching FKM rubber strap. This version offers a brighter, more classic look, with the warmth of the gold movement providing a striking contrast to the cool steel of the case.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
The second configuration features the black chrome DLC-coated case with the anthracite-finished FLS02 movement. This stealthier option is available with a green, blue, black, or ice blue minute track and a corresponding strap. The ice blue variant, in particular, offers a sharp, modern contrast against the dark tones of the case and movement. This all-black foundation allows the colorful accents on the dial to truly pop, creating a bold and contemporary statement piece.
The Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton is positioned as a compelling new entry in the competitive world of skeletonized sport watches. The steel case model with the gold-finished movement is priced at $4,500. The black DLC case version with the anthracite-finished movement is priced slightly higher at $4,600. These prices place the watch in a space where it offers significant value, combining a historic brand name, a distinctive design, and an exclusive, custom-developed manufacture movement. The Chief Skeleton is a clear statement of intent from one of watchmaking's oldest names, proving that even after 288 years, there are still new stories to tell and new mechanical frontiers to explore.
Case: Cushion-shaped 316L stainless steel (brushed and polished) or black DLC coated; Diameter: 40 mm; Thickness: 11.76 mm; Lug-to-Lug: 47.59mm; Lug Width: 22mm; Water resistance: 10 ATM; Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and a sapphire crystal caseback.
Movement: FLS01 (4N18 gold finish) or FLS02 (black-chrome finish); Favre Leuba exclusive self-winding movement; Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz); Power reserve: approx. 41 hours; Jewels: 27; Functions: Hours and minutes; Custom skeletonised rotor.
Dial: Skeletonised with colored minute track; Applied rhodium-plated indexes with SuperLuminova C1 X1 (blue emission); Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1.
Strap: Integrated FKM rubber strap with easy-change mechanism; Color-matched to minute track; Secured by a stainless steel pin buckle with Favre Leuba logo.
Price: $4,500 (Steel case, gold-finished movement); $4,600 (Black DLC case, anthracite-finished movement).
Notes: The first-ever fully skeletonized timepiece in Favre Leuba’s 288-year history. The manufacture movement was developed in collaboration with AMT and features an exclusive, custom-designed balance wheel bridge.