Following a significant revival in 2024, Favre Leuba is expanding one of its cornerstone collections with the introduction of two new dial variants for the Chief Chronograph. The collection, which draws inspiration from the brand’s distinct designs of the 1970s, now includes models in British Racing Green and a warm, sandy color named Dune. These additions don't reinvent the watch but rather build upon its established foundation of intricate dial work and mechanical precision, offering new aesthetic avenues for the cushion-cased chronograph.
Favre Leuba’s re-entry into the watchmaking landscape at Geneva Watch Days 2024 was marked by a clear strategy: to honor its extensive history, which dates back to 1737, while presenting thoroughly modern timepieces. The relaunch included the Chief collection, featuring both a Date and this Chronograph model, alongside the Deep Raider Revival and the Sea Sky, which pay respect to the brand’s legacy in dive and aviation watches. The Chief Chronograph, in particular, serves as a bridge between a nostalgic 70s form factor and contemporary manufacturing capabilities.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
A defining characteristic of the Chief Chronograph collection is the sheer complexity of its dial construction. Each dial is the product of a manufacturing sequence that involves more than one hundred separate steps. This intensive process is necessary to achieve the multi-layered and multi-textured surface that gives the watch its visual depth. The result is a dynamic interplay of finishes, where different sections of the dial capture and reflect light in unique ways, creating a sense of dimension that is not achievable with simpler techniques.
The dial’s architecture combines three primary finishing styles that must coexist in perfect harmony. The main dial surface features a classic sunburst pattern, which radiates from the center and creates a shifting, vibrant effect as the wrist moves. In contrast, the two sub-dials at three and nine o'clock are treated with a fine circular brushing, giving them a more muted, technical appearance that enhances legibility. Encircling the primary dial is a ribbed contour pattern, adding a final layer of structural detail that frames the entire display. This combination demands exceptional precision, as any flaw in the application of texture or color becomes immediately apparent.
The new Chief Chronograph in British Racing Green channels the spirit of classic motorsport. The color itself has a storied past, originating on the racing circuits of Great Britain in the early 20th century, and has since become synonymous with performance and heritage. Favre Leuba has adapted this iconic hue for the wrist, creating a watch that feels both mechanically purposeful and visually bold. The color is not static; it possesses a dynamic quality that responds to its environment, appearing as a bright forest green under direct sunlight and shifting to a deeper, more introspective tone in lower light conditions.
Looking closely at the British Racing Green dial, the sunray finish is the primary driver of its vibrant character. The rhodium-plated hands and applied hour markers stand out clearly against the deep green background, ensuring readability. The bi-compax layout, with a 30-minute counter at three o’clock and the running seconds at nine, is clean and balanced. A tachymeter scale is printed on the internal rehaut, reinforcing its connection to speed and racing. The dial is further enhanced by a raised 3D monogram and multi-faceted hands and indices, which have been treated with both brushing and sandblasting to create additional architectural depth.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
In contrast, the Chief Chronograph Dune presents a much more understated and warmer personality. Its dial is a subtle, sandy color that occupies a space between a soft beige and a pale gold. This variant is designed for harmony and balance, using its warm base color as a canvas for refined accents. The hands and applied markers are rendered in a rose gold hue, which provides a gentle glow and complements the dial’s muted tones. The overall effect is sophisticated without being loud, offering a distinctive look that is both versatile and unique.
The Dune dial shares the same complex construction as its green counterpart, but the effect is entirely different. The sunray and circular-brushed finishes interact with the warm tones to create a surface that seems to shift between a matte finish and a soft luminosity depending on the angle of the light. The architectural geometry of the dial, with its raised elements and contrasting sub-dials, is enhanced by the rose-gold accents. This version demonstrates how the same intricate design can yield a completely different character simply through the careful selection of color and accent materials.
Both new models are housed in the Chief’s signature 41 mm cushion-shaped case, crafted from stainless steel. This shape is a direct nod to the 1970s chronographs that inspired the collection, but its proportions have been refined for modern wearability. The case strikes a balance between presence and comfort, making it suitable for a variety of wrist sizes and occasions. Its design is multifaceted, intended to create a subtle play of light across its surfaces.
To achieve this dynamic effect, the case features a combination of finishing techniques. The top surfaces are vertically brushed, giving the watch a tool-like, satin appearance that minimizes reflections. In direct contrast, the sides of the case and the chronograph pushers are polished to a high sheen. This juxtaposition of finishes highlights the unique contours of the cushion shape and adds a layer of visual interest, allowing the watch to appear both sporty and refined.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
Measuring 14 mm in thickness, the case is robust without feeling overly cumbersome, contributing to its all-around wearability. The lug width is a standard 22 mm, providing options for strap changes. The top of the case is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating to ensure maximum legibility of the intricate dial. For added durability and peace of mind during daily activities, the case is rated for a water resistance of 100 meters (10 ATM).
Flipping the watch over reveals a see-through sapphire crystal caseback, which offers an unobstructed view of the FLC02 automatic chronograph movement. This caliber was developed in close collaboration with the specialists at La Joux-Perret, a well-regarded Swiss movement manufacturer. It is a high-performance engine designed for accuracy and reliability, operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and providing a substantial power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
A key feature of the FLC02 is its use of a column-wheel mechanism to control the chronograph functions. In the world of mechanical chronographs, the column wheel is widely considered to be a more sophisticated and precise solution compared to the more common and easier-to-produce cam-activated systems. The engagement of the chronograph pushers feels smoother and more decisive, and the start, stop, and reset actions of the chronograph hand are typically cleaner with a column-wheel setup.
Favre Leuba has chosen to highlight this superior mechanism by making the column wheel and several screws thermally blued. This is not a simple coloring process but a meticulous heat treatment where steel parts are carefully heated until they oxidize and turn a brilliant, iridescent blue. This process not only provides a stunning visual accent but also increases the surface hardness of the components. The procedure requires absolute precision; if the temperature or timing is even slightly off, the color will be uneven, and the part must be re-polished and the process started from scratch.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
Beyond the blued components, the rest of the movement is also meticulously decorated. The main plate features Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), while the lower bridges are adorned with Perlage (circular graining). These traditional finishing techniques are a hallmark of quality Swiss watchmaking and are fully visible through the caseback, offering a visual treat for the owner. It demonstrates a commitment to craftsmanship that extends beyond what is visible on the dial side.
Topping the movement is a custom-designed, skeletonized rotor finished in 4N gold tone. The open-worked design not only reduces the mass of the rotor for more efficient winding but also allows for a better view of the movement architecture beneath it. The rotor itself is decorated with a combination of Colimaçon (a spiral pattern) and Soleillage (a sunburst pattern). An engraved medallion features the Favre Leuba monogram, along with the text "Swiss made since 1737," a proud declaration of the brand's long-standing heritage.
Legibility is a priority in the Chief Chronograph's design. The multi-faceted hands and applied indexes are generously filled with high-performance Super-Luminova X1. This luminescent material provides a bright and long-lasting glow in low-light conditions, ensuring that the time can be read easily in the dark. This practical feature underscores the watch's positioning as a versatile instrument suitable for an active lifestyle.
The watch is offered with two distinct options for securing it to the wrist, both of which are designed to be easily interchangeable. The first is an integrated, two-link stainless steel bracelet that continues the mixed-finish aesthetic of the case. It features vertically brushed outer links and polished center links, creating a cohesive and graceful look. The bracelet fastens with a butterfly clasp, providing a secure and seamless closure.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
Alternatively, the watch can be paired with a high-quality FKM rubber strap, color-matched to either the British Racing Green or Dune dial. This option lends the watch a decidedly sportier aesthetic while offering excellent comfort and durability. The rubber strap is seamlessly integrated with the case and is equipped with a traditional pin buckle bearing the brand's logo. Both the bracelet and the strap feature an easy-change mechanism, allowing the owner to switch between them without the need for special tools.
The Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph British Racing Green is priced at $5,700 on the rubber strap (ref. 00.20101.113.03.303) and $5,800 on the steel bracelet (ref. 00.20101.113.03.200). The Chief Chronograph Dune follows the same pricing structure, available for $5,700 on the rubber strap (ref. 00.20101.113.08.308) and $5,800 on the steel bracelet (ref. 00.20101.113.08.200). These new models are available through authorized Favre Leuba retailers.
Case: 41mm cushion-shaped steel case, 14mm thickness, 22mm lug width. Sapphire crystal with AR coating, see-through sapphire caseback, 100M water resistance.
Movement: Caliber FLC02 automatic chronograph. Column-wheel mechanism, 60-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph frequency, 28 jewels. Decorated with Côtes de Genève, Perlage, and blued screws.
Dial: British Racing Green or Dune colors. Sunburst main dial with circular brushed sub-dials. Bi-compax layout with small seconds and 30-minute counter. Hands and markers with Super-Luminova X1.
Strap: Interchangeable options include an integrated two-link steel bracelet with butterfly clasp or a color-matched FKM rubber strap with a pin buckle.
Price: $5,700 USD on rubber strap, $5,800 USD on steel bracelet.
Reference Number: 00.20101.113.03.303 (BRG Rubber), 00.20101.113.03.200 (BRG Bracelet), 00.20101.113.08.308 (Dune Rubber), 00.20101.113.08.200 (Dune Bracelet).
Notes: The complex dial is the result of over 100 distinct production stages. The FLC02 movement was developed with La Joux-Perret and features a thermally blued column wheel for precise chronograph operation.