Favre Leuba, a name with a history stretching back centuries, continues its modern chapter with the introduction of the Chief Date Royal Purple. This new model is a direct and confident extension of the brand's 2024 relaunch, which saw the revival of several key collections. The Chief Date itself is a reinterpretation of a 1970s Favre Leuba classic, updated for a contemporary audience. This latest version, however, makes its most assertive statement not through a new complication or case material, but through the potent and striking use of color.
The history behind this timepiece is one of the longest and most storied in the Swiss watch industry. It all began in 1718 when a 16-year-old Abraham Favre started his watchmaking apprenticeship. By March 13, 1737, official records from Le Locle, Switzerland, first mentioned him as an independent watchmaker, marking the official genesis of the brand. His skill was such that around 1749, he was appointed Maître horloger du Locle, or master watchmaker of the town, a significant honor. The workshop’s reputation grew through key collaborations, including work alongside Jacques-Frederic Horiet, known as the father of Swiss chronometry, and the legendary Abraham Louis Breguet.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
The 19th century was a period of ambitious global expansion for the family business. Henry-August Favre traveled extensively, taking the workshop's finely crafted pocket watches to distant markets from Russia to Brazil and New York. This effort paid off handsomely, as Favre Leuba timepieces began accumulating numerous awards at major international exhibitions, including London in 1851, New York in 1853, and Paris in 1855. A particularly noteworthy milestone occurred in 1865 when Fritz Favre traveled to India, making Favre Leuba the very first Swiss watch brand to establish a presence on the subcontinent, a market where it would build a strong and lasting foundation.
As the 20th century dawned, the company continued its growth trajectory. The headquarters were relocated from Le Locle to the more internationally connected city of Geneva in 1896. In 1908, Henri Favre Leuba took the helm, guiding the brand through a period of significant growth and serving as president of the board of directors until his death in 1961. After the Second World War, the brand leveraged its strong position in India, with its own office in Bombay, to rebuild and expand its presence across Europe, America, and Africa. Branches in major cities like Hamburg, London, and New York ensured a robust distribution network and high-quality customer service.
The mid-20th century was a golden era of technical innovation for Favre Leuba. The company began regularly exhibiting at the major Swiss watch fairs, showcasing its prowess. In 1955, the brand introduced its own in-house manufacture caliber, the FL101, which powered core models like the Sea Chief and Sea King. This was followed by a string of legendary tool watches. In 1960, the Water Deep marked its first foray into dive watches. This paved the way for the 1962 Bivouac, the world's first mechanical watch with an aneroid barometer for measuring altitude and air pressure, an instrument trusted by mountaineers, parachutists, and explorers on expeditions to the world's most demanding environments.
The brand's innovative streak did not stop there. The patented FL251 caliber from 1962, an extra-thin movement with a centered seconds hand and twin barrels, was a technical achievement. In 1964, the
Deep Blue dive watch was launched with an improved water resistance of 200 meters. Perhaps most famously, 1968 saw the debut of the Bathy, the world's first mechanical watch that could measure and display the current diving depth. The brand's influence grew through strategic associations, including the acquisition of the
Bovet name in 1948 and becoming a sister company to
Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1969. The 1970s brought distinctive, cushion-cased designs like the Sea Raider and the Sea Sky chronograph, capturing the aesthetic of the era.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
Like much of the traditional Swiss watch industry, Favre Leuba was hit hard by the quartz crisis of the 1980s, which ultimately compelled the founding family to sell the brand. After changing hands several times over the ensuing decades, the brand mounted a significant relaunch at Geneva Watch Days in 2024. This revival introduced modern interpretations of its historic pillars, setting the stage for new expressions like the Chief Date Royal Purple.
The Chief Date Royal Purple is presented in a 40mm stainless steel case that immediately establishes its identity. The shape is a modernized cushion form, a nod to the brand's popular 1970s designs, but with proportions tailored for today. With a case thickness of just 10.81mm, it achieves a profile that is substantial enough to have presence without being cumbersome, making it suitable for daily wear across a wide range of activities and attire.
The case finishing is a study in controlled contrast. The multifaceted design features a prominent circular brushing on the bezel that frames the dial, while the case sides exhibit a clean, vertical brushing. These satin-finished surfaces are sharply delineated by polished chamfers that trace the contours of the case, catching the light and creating visual definition. This interplay of textures gives the watch a dynamic character that feels both robust and refined. The case is fitted with a curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating to ensure maximum clarity, and a screw-down sapphire crystal caseback provides a view of the mechanical movement within while securing a water resistance of 100 meters.
The most defining feature of this new model is its dial. The "Royal Purple" is a deep, saturated hue that commands attention. It's a color choice that moves the watch away from the conventional palette of blues, blacks, and silvers, offering a statement of individuality. The surface is treated with a sunburst finish, which allows the dial to play with light dynamically. As the wrist moves, waves of light radiate from the center, shifting the purple tone from a bright, electric violet to a deep, shadowy indigo, lending the watch a sense of depth and life.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
Anchoring the dial's design is Favre Leuba's signature high-relief hourglass motif. This geometric pattern is pressed into the dial, creating a textured base that adds another layer of visual complexity. At the 12 o'clock position, a polished, three-dimensional applied Favre Leuba monogram stands proud, adding a sculptural touch. The hands and applied hour markers are rhodium-plated for a bright, metallic finish that contrasts sharply with the purple background for excellent legibility. A neatly framed date aperture is positioned at 3 o'clock, providing essential functionality without disrupting the dial's overall design harmony.
To ensure visibility under all lighting conditions, the watch features a generous application of high-performance Super-LumiNova. The specific grade used is Super-LumiNova C1 X1, which emits a bright blue glow in the dark. This luminescent material is applied to the faceted, rhodium-plated hands and the applied hour indices, ensuring that the time can be read clearly whether in dim light or complete darkness. The glow is known for its intensity and longevity, a practical feature that aligns with the watch's versatile, sporty character.
Powering the Chief Date Royal Purple is the Caliber FLD03, a self-winding movement that reflects a commitment to high-quality Swiss craftsmanship. Developed in partnership with the respected movement specialist La Joux-Perret, this caliber is engineered for solid performance and reliability. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 beats per hour, a modern standard that contributes to its precision. The movement is equipped with 24 jewels and provides a substantial power reserve of approximately 68 hours, allowing the watch to run for nearly three days off the wrist without needing to be wound.
The view through the sapphire caseback reveals that the movement's finishing is as considered as its performance. The caliber is immaculately decorated with several traditional and modern techniques. The main plate features classic Côtes de Genève, or Geneva stripes, that add a sense of depth and texture. The screws are heat-treated, giving them a vibrant blue color that provides a striking contrast against the metallic plates. This level of meticulous finishing is a clear indicator of the watch's positioning as a premium mechanical object.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
A highlight of the movement's decoration is its custom rotor. Made from a base metal and coated with a 4N PVD finish for a warm, rose-gold tone, the rotor is extensively skeletonized. This open-working is not merely for aesthetics; it reduces the mass of the rotor, potentially improving winding efficiency, while also offering a clearer view of the movement architecture beneath. The rotor's surface is adorned with a combination of Colimaçonnage (a fine spiral pattern) and Soleillage (a sunburst finish), and it features an engraved Favre Leuba monogram set within a central medallion.
Favre Leuba offers the Chief Date Royal Purple with two distinct options that significantly alter its on-wrist character. The first is a seamlessly integrated two-link stainless steel bracelet. This bracelet continues the architectural language of the case, with broad links that feature a vertical brushed finish, separated by smaller, brightly polished center links. This alternating finish creates a sophisticated look that flows cohesively from the 22mm lugs. The bracelet secures to the wrist with a discreet butterfly clasp, maintaining a clean and uninterrupted profile.
The second option is a sporty purple rubber strap. Made from high-quality FKM rubber, the strap is smooth, durable, and comfortable. Its color is perfectly matched to the dial, creating a bold, monochrome aesthetic that leans into a more contemporary and casual style. Like the bracelet, the strap is designed to integrate seamlessly with the case, eliminating any gap between the lugs for a unified appearance. It fastens with a traditional stainless steel pin buckle, which is engraved with the Favre Leuba logo.
Both the steel bracelet and the rubber strap are equipped with an easy-change mechanism. This system allows the owner to swap between the two options quickly and without the need for tools, adding a layer of versatility. A wearer can easily transition the watch from the more formal character of the steel bracelet to the sporty feel of the rubber strap, effectively getting two distinct styles in one package. This feature underscores the watch's design as a companion for a modern, dynamic lifestyle.
Courtesy of Favre Leuba
The Chief Date Royal Purple demonstrates a clear understanding of its target audience. It is a timepiece that respects its own considerable heritage, particularly the distinctive designs of the 1970s, but is not bound by them. The choice of a vibrant purple dial is a confident move, designed to appeal to those who want their watch to be a point of expression. It successfully balances a unique aesthetic with the robust build and reliable mechanics expected of a modern luxury sports watch.
The new Favre Leuba Chief Date Royal Purple is available in two references. The model paired with the integrated stainless steel bracelet is reference 00.20102.102.07.200 and is priced at $2,750. The version supplied with the matching purple rubber strap is reference 00.20102.102.07.307, with a price of $2,650. Both models are part of the brand’s continued rollout following its 2024 relaunch and represent a vibrant and compelling new direction for the historic Chief collection.
Case: 40mm stainless steel cushion-shaped case; 10.81mm thickness; 22mm lug width; Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating; See-through sapphire caseback; 100M water resistance.
Movement: Caliber FLD03 automatic movement; Approx. 68-hour power reserve; 28,800 bph (4Hz) frequency; 24 jewels; Date function; Developed with La Joux-Perret.
Dial: Royal Purple with sunburst finish and high-relief hourglass motif; Applied rhodium-plated indices and hands with high-performance Super-LumiNova X1 (blue glow).
Strap: Interchangeable options: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp OR a purple rubber strap with a pin buckle.
Price: Ref. 00.20102.102.07.307 (Rubber Strap) - $2,650; Ref. 00.20102.102.07.200 (Steel Bracelet) - $2,750.
Notes: The caliber is visible through the caseback and features extensive decoration, including Côtes de Genève, blued screws, and a custom skeletonized 4N PVD rotor.