De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky

De Bethune occupies a distinct and somewhat solitary space in the landscape of high-end watchmaking, sitting comfortably at the intersection of avant-garde science fiction aesthetics and deeply traditional craft. The manufacture does not simply iterate on existing designs or pull from a dusty archive of past glories; rather, it tends to deconstruct them entirely and rebuild them with a manic focus on chronometric performance and visual drama. With the release of the DB25 Perpetual Sky, reference DB25SQPV2, the brand has turned its attention to the perpetual calendar complication, refining it into a package that balances astronomical romanticism with wearable engineering. This timepiece represents a significant consolidation of the brand's design language, shrinking the footprint to a manageable 40mm while retaining the expansive, cinematic quality of their signature starry dials. It is a statement of intent, proving that complex mechanics need not be bulky or unwieldy, but can instead be refined into an object of surprising grace and comfort.



The case of the DB25 Perpetual Sky is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, a material that De Bethune has mastered perhaps better than any other independent watchmaker currently operating. While titanium is often selected for its utilitarian properties, specifically its lightness and resistance to corrosion, here it is treated with the same reverence usually reserved for platinum or gold. The case measures 40mm in diameter and sits 11.3mm high on the wrist, dimensions that signal a shift towards more classic proportions compared to the larger, saucer-like shapes of the brand's DB28 lineage. The polishing on the titanium is mirror-like, reflecting the surroundings with a clarity that belies the metal's typically grey, industrial reputation. The tactile experience of Grade 5 titanium is distinct; it warms quickly to the skin and offers a featherweight presence that makes the watch easy to wear for extended periods, a crucial factor for a daily-wear complication like a perpetual calendar which is intended to be a constant companion.



Visually, the most striking feature of the case silhouette is the lug design, which departs significantly from the standard soldered horns found on most dress watches. These are not standard lugs but integrated, hollowed-out structures that reduce visual mass and add an architectural complexity to the profile. They curve downwards sharply, ensuring that the strap hugs the wrist intimately, eliminating the gap that often plagues timepieces with substantial lugs. This skeletonized approach to the lugs serves a dual purpose: it shaves off unnecessary grams to maintain the lightweight ethos, and it frames the central drum of the case, allowing the dial to remain the absolute focal point. The case is topped with a sapphire crystal that has a hardness of 1800 Vickers and is treated with a double anti-reflective coating, ensuring that the intricate details of the dial are legible even under harsh lighting conditions.



The dial itself is a theatre of astronomy, dominated by De Bethune’s signature blued polished titanium, a feature that has become almost synonymous with the brand's identity. Achieving this specific hue of blue is a thermal process, not a chemical one, requiring the titanium to be heated to a precise temperature where the surface oxidizes to this deep, electric shade. It creates a canvas that changes personality depending on the light, shifting from a dark, midnight navy to a vibrant, glowing azure. Scattered across this titanium firmament are white gold pins driven into the metal to represent stars, depicting a specific celestial alignment. The Milky Way is rendered through a sophisticated technique involving laser micro-engraving which clouds the surface, followed by the application of 24-carat gold leaf gilding. This creates a shimmering, nebulous texture that contrasts sharply with the high-polish finish of the surrounding blue metal, giving the dial a sense of depth and infinite space that draws the viewer in.



At the twelve o'clock position sits the spherical moon phase, a patented innovation that has become a hallmark of De Bethune’s astronomical complications. Unlike the flat rotating discs found in traditional horology, this is a three-dimensional sphere composed of two hemispheres: one in blued steel and the other in palladium. The sphere rotates on its own axis to display the phases of the moon with exceptional accuracy. The mechanism is so precise that it will only deviate by one lunar day every 122 years. Seeing the tiny sphere effectively suspended in the dial adds a sculptural element to the face of the watch, breaking the flatness and drawing the eye immediately to the top of the vertical axis. It provides a tangible, volumetric representation of the celestial body rather than a mere graphic representation, effectively miniaturizing the cosmos for the wrist.



Below the spherical moon, a small gold pastille appears in the starry field to indicate the leap year cycle, a subtle integration that keeps the dial uncluttered and allows the stars to take precedence. The rest of the perpetual calendar data is distributed across a series of rings and apertures that prioritize legibility without destroying the aesthetic balance. The date is indicated on a sub-dial at six o'clock, which features a blued ring with 3N-gilded transfers. The choice of gold text against the blue background ensures high contrast. The day of the week and the month are shown through apertures at nine and three o'clock, respectively. These discs are also blue with gilded transfers, maintaining the chromatic continuity of the piece. The arrangement creates a pleasing symmetry, with the spherical moon at the top balancing the date sub-dial at the bottom, and the calendar windows flanking the center.



Surrounding the central celestial display is a silver-toned chapter ring carrying the Roman numeral hour markers. This ring provides a bright, classic boundary to the cosmic center, grounding the watch in traditional horological codes and preventing the design from feeling too alien. The minutes are tracked on the outer edge of this ring, allowing for precise time-telling. The hands themselves are hand-curved and mirror-polished in yellow gold. They are slender and delicate, designed to sweep over the dial without obstructing the view of the stars or the calendar indications. The slight curvature of the hands is a necessary detail to clear the spherical moon phase and to follow the camber of the dial, demonstrating the level of attention paid to the three-dimensional interplay of the components.



Turning the watch over reveals the engine driving this astronomical display, the Calibre DB2005V3. This mechanical hand-wound movement is a showcase of De Bethune’s technical philosophy, which blends 18th-century watchmaking traditions with 21st-century materials science. The movement measures 30mm in diameter and is composed of 339 individual parts. Visually, the movement is dominated by a large, delta-shaped barrel bridge cover in mirror-polished steel, which acts as a mirror reflecting the internal mechanics and the viewer. The mainplate is covered by a polished Grade 5 titanium plate, continuing the material theme from the case. The use of hand-snailing on the barrels and the meticulous hand-finishing on every edge and surface speaks to the artisanal nature of the production, where human touch is still paramount.



A key feature of the DB2005V3 calibre is the self-regulating twin barrel system, a De Bethune innovation from 2004. This system ensures consistent torque delivery to the escapement throughout the discharge of the mainsprings, resulting in a stable rate and a healthy power reserve of 5 days. High power reserves are particularly valuable in perpetual calendars, as they reduce the likelihood of the watch stopping and requiring a complex resetting procedure if left off the wrist for a weekend. The barrels are designed to minimize friction and wear, contributing to the long-term reliability of the movement. It is a practical consideration that shows the brand understands how collectors actually use their watches.



The regulating organ of the watch features a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, a patented design from 2016. This unusual combination of materials is engineered to optimize the balance's inertia and aerodynamics while minimizing its mass. The white gold weights are positioned at the periphery to maximize angular momentum, while the lightweight titanium spokes reduce air resistance and susceptibility to temperature variations. This high-tech balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Paired with this is the "De Bethune" balance spring with a flat terminal curve, patented in 2006. This distinct hairspring geometry allows for concentric breathing of the spring, improving isochronism and ensuring that the watch keeps accurate time regardless of its position or the amount of power remaining in the barrels.



Shock resistance is another area where De Bethune has applied significant engineering resources. The movement is equipped with the Triple Pare-chute shock-absorbing system, an innovation introduced in 2005. This system uses a titanium bridge secured by a spring-based suspension system to hold the balance wheel assembly. In the event of an impact, the energy is absorbed and dissipated by the springs rather than being transferred directly to the delicate pivots of the balance staff. Visually, this system is identifiable by the distinctive blue bracket and shock springs visible on the movement side, adding a flash of color to the silver and grey mechanical landscape. It transforms a functional necessity into a visual signature of the calibre.



The escapement also utilizes a silicon escape wheel. Silicon is non-magnetic, extremely light, and requires no lubrication, making it an ideal material for the high-friction environment of the escapement. Its low mass contributes to the efficiency of the energy transmission, helping to achieve the five-day power reserve. The combination of the silicon escape wheel, the advanced balance wheel, and the specialized hairspring demonstrates that the DB25 Perpetual Sky is not just a pretty face but a serious precision instrument built on a foundation of genuine research and development. It is a machine designed to perform, not just to look good in a display case.



The interplay between the case size and the movement architecture is worth noting. By utilizing the DB2005V3 calibre, De Bethune was able to fit a full perpetual calendar mechanism into a case that is relatively slim at 11.3mm. This thickness includes the spherical moon phase, which naturally requires more vertical clearance than a flat disc. The successful packaging of these complications into a 40mm x 11.3mm volume addresses a common complaint among collectors regarding the wearability of high-complication timepieces. It allows the watch to slide easily under a dress shirt cuff, making it a viable companion for formal occasions rather than a showpiece destined to remain in a safe. It brings the complication back to the realm of the wearable.



The strap of the DB25 Perpetual Sky is made from alligator leather, chosen for its durability and classic texture. It is secured to the wrist by a Grade 5 titanium pin buckle, which matches the material and finish of the case. The buckle usually echoes the design language of the lugs, featuring open-worked sections or specific curves that tie the entire package together. The comfort on the wrist is paramount, and the integration of the strap into the hollowed lugs ensures a seamless transition from metal to leather, allowing the watch to drape naturally over the wrist bone. It is a detail that is often overlooked but critical for the overall experience of the watch.



Every aspect of the DB25 Perpetual Sky, from the laser-engraved Milky Way to the shock-absorbing bridge, reflects a philosophy of "human scale" production. These watches are not churned out on an assembly line but are individually assembled and regulated by a single Grand Complication watchmaker. The finishing techniques—polishing, bluing, snailing, chamfering—are manual processes that rely on the dexterity and experience of the artisan. The sheer number of components, over 330 in the movement alone, requires patience and precision to assemble. The result is an object that feels personal and crafted, bearing the invisible signature of the hands that built it.



The aesthetic of the watch is a study in contrasts: the futuristic blue titanium against the classic silver chapter ring; the industrial grade 5 titanium case against the soft, organic texture of the alligator strap; the mechanical rigidity of the movement against the poetic fluidity of the starry sky dial. These tensions are what make De Bethune designs so compelling. They manage to be technically aggressive yet romantically styled. The dial layout is intuitive, allowing the wearer to read the calendar information at a glance, yet it rewards closer inspection with the depth of the gold leaf stars and the mesmerizing volume of the moon sphere.



In the realm of high horology, the perpetual calendar is often treated as a delicate, somewhat fussy mechanism. De Bethune reinterprets it as a robust, high-performance machine. The inclusion of the triple pare-chute system and the silicon escape wheel suggests that this watch is meant to be worn and enjoyed in the real world, not just admired in a climate-controlled winder. The 1800 Vickers hardness of the sapphire crystal ensures that the view of the galaxy on the dial remains unobstructed by scratches, while the grade 5 titanium case offers a resilience that softer precious metals cannot match. It is built to survive the rigors of daily life while carrying the cosmos on its face.



Furthermore, the legibility of the complication is handled with a rare restraint. Many perpetual calendars suffer from cluttered dials, where the information density overwhelms the aesthetic appeal. De Bethune avoids this by utilizing apertures for the day and month, and by integrating the leap year indicator so subtly into the sky that it effectively disappears until one looks for it. The focus remains on the time and the moon, the two most elemental aspects of the display. This hierarchy of information suggests a confidence in design, an understanding that sometimes less is indeed more, even when dealing with a high complication.



The De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky is produced in very limited numbers, constrained not by artificial scarcity but by the genuine production capacity of the manufacture in L'Auberson. The extensive hand-finishing and the complex assembly of the perpetual calendar module dictate a slow, deliberate pace of creation. This limited production ensures that each piece receives the full attention of the watchmakers. The exclusivity here is a byproduct of the process, not a marketing gimmick. It is a rarity born of the difficulty of its own creation.



Priced at $145,000 USD, the DB25 Perpetual Sky occupies a rarified tier in the market, standing shoulder to shoulder with grand complications from the most historic Swiss maisons. This figure reflects not just the material costs of grade 5 titanium and gold, but the immense intellectual capital and artisanal labor invested in each unit. For this price, the collector acquires a piece of mechanical art that challenges the status quo, offering a vision of watchmaking that honors the past while aggressively pursuing the future. It is a significant outlay for a significant machine, destined for those who value the convergence of high-tech engineering and old-world handcraft.



Case: Grade 5 titanium material; 40mm diameter; 11.3mm thickness; integrated, hollowed lugs; sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating; open case back in polished grade 5 titanium with sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) and double anti-reflective coating.

Movement: Calibre DB2005V3 mechanical hand-wound movement; 5-day power reserve via self-regulating twin barrel; 28,800 vibrations per hour frequency; 30mm diameter; 339 parts; 27 jewels; titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts; silicon escape wheel; triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system; spherical moon phase indication accurate to one lunar day every 122 years.

Dial: Blued polished titanium starry sky with white gold stars; Milky Way created by laser micro-engraving and 24-carat gold leaf inlay; silver-toned hours and minutes ring with Roman numerals; blued date ring with 3N-gilded transfers; perpetual calendar apertures on blue discs with 3N-gilded transfers; spherical moon phase in palladium and blued steel at 12 o'clock; hand-curved, mirror-polished yellow gold hands.

Strap: Alligator leather strap; grade 5 titanium buckle.

Price: $145,000 USD

Reference Number: DB25SQPV2

Notes: Limited annual production capacity due to hand-craftsmanship; features patented spherical moon phase accurate to one lunar day every 122 years; dial pattern can be personalized to a specific geographical location and date.