Within the landscape of independent watchmaking, certain names resonate with a distinct frequency, operating on a plane where mechanical engineering and avant-garde sculpture intersect.
De Bethune is unequivocally one of those names. The manufacture, guided by the visionary hand of master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, has consistently challenged conventional horological design, producing timepieces that feel both ancient in their astronomical inspirations and futuristic in their execution. The new DB28xs Yellow Tones is a potent distillation of this philosophy, a piece that re-examines a brand icon through a new lens of color, material science, and compact proportion.
The journey of De Bethune is one of constant refinement, a principle that Denis Flageollet refers to as a process of perpetual evolution. This is not about releasing annual updates for the sake of novelty, but rather about a relentless desire to improve and perfect. When a new iteration of a model is presented, it is the result of a complete re-evaluation from the ground up. This is precisely the case with the DB28xs. Instead of merely shrinking the celebrated 42mm DB28, the entire aesthetic and ergonomic balance of the watch was reconsidered to harmonize with its new, more modest dimensions, ensuring the powerful character of the original was retained, not simply diluted.
Courtesy of De Bethune
This commitment to rethinking design is matched by an unparalleled mastery over materials, particularly grade 5 titanium. For De Bethune, titanium is not just a lightweight alternative to steel or gold; it is a canvas. Through years of research and experimentation, the manufacture has perfected the art of thermal oxidation, a process that uses heat to alter the very surface of the metal, creating a stable and vibrant oxide layer. This technique allows them to achieve a spectrum of colors, from deep blues to rich browns, and now, a fiery, incandescent yellow that defines the Yellow Tones collection.
The creation of this specific hue is a testament to the brand's artisanal approach. It is not a uniform coating applied en masse. Instead, each component of the case and movement is treated individually. The artisans at the L’Auberson workshop must carefully calibrate the process based on the shape, mass, and type of metal, achieving a symphony of warm shades that evoke amber, sunlight, and flame. This painstaking method ensures that the final product is not a flat, monotonous yellow, but a dynamic color that shifts and shimmers with the light, imbued with a natural, organic depth.
The case of the DB28xs Yellow Tones is the first point of contact, and it immediately communicates the brand’s unique architectural language. Measuring 38.7 mm in diameter and a slender 8 mm in thickness, the proportions are a significant departure for the DB28 lineage, offering a more universal and comfortable fit for a wider range of wrists. The entire structure is crafted from polished grade 5 titanium, which has undergone the aforementioned thermal treatment. The result is a golden-hued form that is both visually striking and deceptively light, promising an exceptional on-the-wrist experience.
A defining feature of the DB28 family, and one that is critical to its comfort, is the patented floating lug system. These are not traditional lugs soldered or screwed onto a case band. Instead, they are articulated, skeletonized arms that pivot from the case middle. This ingenious design, patented in 2006, allows the watch to conform perfectly to the curvature of any wrist. In the DB28xs, these lugs are also rendered in polished yellow titanium, appearing as futuristic exoskeletal supports that secure the circular case, blending mechanical function with a bold design statement.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Turning the watch over reveals a screwed case back made from the same polished yellow titanium, featuring a sapphire crystal exhibition window. However, instead of offering a full view of the movement's bridges, it provides a focused look at a specific and practical complication: the linear power reserve indicator. This display provides an intuitive reading of the movement’s impressive six-day energy store. It is a typically De Bethune solution, technically adept and integrated in a way that preserves the aesthetic purity of the dial side while still offering useful information to the owner.
The dial is where the interplay of light, color, and texture truly comes alive. It is an open-worked, multi-layered composition that achieves remarkable legibility without relying on strong color contrast. Instead, it uses a variety of surface finishes to differentiate its elements. A circular satin-finished titanium ring forms the chapter ring for the hours and minutes, punctuated by polished yellow titanium spheres that serve as hour markers. This ring frames the central architecture of the dial, creating a clear visual boundary for time-telling.
Dominating the visual landscape is the large, delta-shaped bridge that secures the twin barrels. This component is a masterpiece of finishing. Its surface features a delicate microlight engraving, creating a fine, ribbed texture that catches the light in a soft, diffuse way. The edges of this bridge are then painstakingly chamfered and mirror-polished, creating sharp, brilliant lines that contrast dramatically with the matte and satin finishes elsewhere. This play of light is what Denis Flageollet considers essential, creating a unique visual resonance that makes the watch feel alive.
The hands are crafted from yellow polished titanium, shaped into a slender, contemporary form that is partially open-worked, ensuring they obscure as little of the mechanical artistry below as possible. They sweep over the intricate dial, pointing to the markers with precision. Below the central bridge, visible at the 6 o'clock position, is the vibrant heart of the watch: the balance wheel, held in place by its own polished bridge. This deliberate reveal of the regulating organ provides a constant, animated focal point, reminding the wearer of the complex machine at work.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Driving the DB28xs Yellow Tones is the Calibre DB2115V14, a mechanical manual-winding movement that is a showcase of De Bethune's technical prowess. Comprising 241 components and 36 jewels, it operates at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The calibre is the product of continuous evolution within the manufacture's technical department, incorporating a suite of patented innovations designed to enhance precision, reliability, and longevity. The hand-crafted finishing on the movement components, even those not visible from the dial, adheres to the highest standards of haute horlogerie.
One of the movement’s most significant features is its substantial power reserve. It can run autonomously for a full six days, a feat made possible by a self-regulating twin barrel system, a De Bethune innovation from 2004. This design provides a more stable and consistent flow of energy to the escapement over a longer period compared to a single, larger barrel. The optimization of the movement’s components also contributes to a more than 20% increase in energy efficiency, making this long power reserve possible.
At the core of the calibre's accuracy is its advanced regulating organ. The balance wheel is a proprietary De Bethune design, patented in 2016. It is crafted from lightweight titanium and features small white gold inserts around its perimeter. This combination optimizes the wheel for temperature differences and air penetration, ensuring a stable rate. The titanium provides low inertia for its size, while the peripheral white gold masses ensure effective regulation. It is a modern solution to the age-old watchmaking challenge of isochronism.
Paired with this advanced balance wheel is the De Bethune balance spring, which features a unique flat terminal curve patented in 2006. This specific shape helps the spring to breathe more concentrically, further improving the movement's precision. The escapement employs a silicon escape wheel, a modern material choice that offers benefits such as reduced friction, anti-magnetism, and the elimination of the need for lubrication, contributing to the movement's long-term stability and reduced service intervals.
Courtesy of De Bethune
De Bethune also places a strong emphasis on durability, an area often overlooked in high-end, artistic watchmaking. The heart of the Calibre DB2115V14 is protected by the Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. This patented innovation from 2005 provides superior shock protection not just for the delicate balance staff pivots, but for the entire regulating system. It is composed of a bridge held in place by a spring-based system, effectively creating a resilient cradle for the most critical components of the movement.
All these technical and aesthetic elements converge to create a remarkably wearable timepiece. The combination of the compact 38.7mm diameter, the slim 8mm profile, the lightweight grade 5 titanium case, and the ergonomic floating lugs results in a watch that is designed for supreme comfort. It is a piece that is meant to be worn and enjoyed daily, adapting seamlessly to its owner’s wrist and movements.
The watch is presented on an extra-supple, double-lined brown alligator leather strap that complements the warm tones of the case. The quality of the strap enhances the wearing experience, feeling soft and pliable from the very first moment. Alternative strap options, such as a sturdy green canvas, offer a different character, dressing the watch down for a more casual look. The watch is secured with a matching polished titanium pin buckle, completing the cohesive material theme.
The careful orchestration of every element, from the material science of the case to the innovative architecture of the movement, makes this watch a profound statement. It showcases how a manufacture can revisit a successful design, not by making it smaller, but by reimagining its very essence for a new context. The exploration of color through the thermal oxidation process is not a superficial treatment but an integral part of the watch’s identity, demonstrating a deep connection between the material and its final artistic expression.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The De Bethune DB28xs Yellow Tones stands as a brilliant example of the brand’s ability to merge futuristic design with the foundational principles of classical watchmaking. It is a complex machine that prioritizes both technical performance and wearer comfort, a piece of kinetic art that is as intellectually satisfying as it is visually captivating. It respects the lineage of the DB28 while confidently establishing its own distinct personality.
Offered as a new addition to the core collection, the De Bethune DB28xs Yellow Tones is priced at $115,000 USD. For this, the owner acquires not just a time-telling instrument, but a piece that encapsulates the spirit of one of the most innovative and artistically driven manufactures in contemporary watchmaking. It is a bold, bright, and technically superb creation that perfectly balances presence with wearability.
Case: Yellow polished grade 5 titanium, 38.7 mm diameter, 8 mm thickness, sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating, patented floating lugs, screwed case back with linear power reserve indicator.
Movement: Mechanical manual-winding Calibre DB2115V14, 241 parts, 36 jewels, 28,800 vph, 6-day power reserve from a self-regulating twin barrel, features a titanium balance with white gold inserts, silicon escape wheel, and triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system.
Dial: Circular satin-finish titanium hours and minutes ring with yellow polished titanium hour-markers, yellow titanium barrel bridge with microlight decoration, yellow polished titanium dial base, and yellow polished titanium hands.
Strap: Brown alligator leather strap or green canvas strap with a polished titanium pin buckle.
Price: $115,000 USD
Reference Number: DB28XSY
Notes: The unique fiery yellow color of the case and movement components is achieved through a proprietary thermal oxidation process on the grade 5 titanium, treating each part individually.