De Bethune continues to assert its position as a distinct entity in the landscape of high horology with the introduction of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, a timepiece that mechanically and aesthetically explores the concept of duality. This watch does not simply offer a second time zone; it presents two entirely distinct personalities housed within a single reversible case, effectively providing the wearer with two watches in one. The mechanism required to achieve this feat is substantial, involving a complex arrangement of gears and pinions that allow the hands to rotate in the correct direction regardless of which face is visible, a challenge that dictates the entire architecture of the movement. The watch is defined by its grade 5 titanium construction, a material that De Bethune has mastered over years of refinement, utilizing it not just for the case but for key components of the movement itself. The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT serves as a culmination of multiple patented technologies and design languages that the brand has developed, merging the futuristic, sci-fi aesthetic often associated with their "contemporary" pieces with the traditional, guilloché-heavy look of their "classic" lines.
The history of double-sided timepieces is not new, tracing its roots back to the Age of Enlightenment when astronomers and engineers sought to display an increasing amount of data on a single device. During the Renaissance, this need for information density led to the creation of multi-faced tower clocks and table clocks, objects that could communicate astronomical positions, calendars, and time simultaneously. As miniaturization techniques advanced, these concepts migrated to pocket watches and eventually to complex masterpieces like the Leroy 01 from 1900. De Bethune acknowledges this lineage while radically updating the execution for the modern wrist. The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT operates on a principle of reversibility that is both functional and tactile, allowing the case to swivel on a central axis. This rotation is not merely a gimmick but the primary method of interacting with the watch’s dual nature, enabling the user to switch between a technical, skeletonized display and a refined, minimalist dial depending on the context or the time zone they wish to prioritize.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The case of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT measures 43.3 millimeters in diameter and 11.4 millimeters in thickness, dimensions that manage to contain significant mechanical complexity without becoming unwieldy. Crafted from polished grade 5 titanium, the case exhibits a luster often associated with steel or platinum but retains the lightweight properties and thermal stability of titanium. The choice of grade 5 titanium is significant as it is notoriously difficult to polish to a mirror finish, requiring specialized techniques and significant man-hours to achieve a surface free of imperfections. The case architecture incorporates De Bethune’s patented floating lug system, an innovation originally introduced in 2006. These floating lugs are designed to articulate independently, adjusting to the curvature of the wearer's wrist to ensure a snug and ergonomic fit. This system is particularly important for a watch with a rotating case, as it maintains the stability of the watch on the wrist while allowing the central container to pivot freely when required.
The pivoting mechanism itself is a marvel of micro-engineering, comprised of 42 individual components made from stainless materials such as surgical steel and titanium. This complexity ensures that the rotation is smooth, precise, and durable, capable of withstanding the daily stresses of wear as well as environmental factors like humidity and temperature variations. The mechanism allows the case to turn completely on its axis, locking into place with a reassuring solidity that belies the intricacy of the internal springs and cams. The floating lugs flank the central case container, creating an open, airy structure that emphasizes the architectural nature of the watch. The integration of the turning mechanism into the floating lugs represents a significant evolution of the system, repurposing a feature designed for comfort into one that also facilitates the watch’s primary complication. The ability to withstand continuous contact with the skin and resist external aggressions speaks to the pragmatic approach De Bethune takes towards even its most avant-garde designs.
On the side designated as the "Contemporary" face, the watch presents a visage that is unmistakably modern, characterized by a three-dimensional arrangement of bridges and exposed mechanics. This dial is dominated by a large, deltoid-shaped bridge crafted from titanium, which anchors the movement and provides visual symmetry. The bridge is finished with a high degree of attention to detail, featuring mirror-polished surfaces that contrast with the matte and satin-brushed textures of the surrounding components. At the six o'clock position, the balance wheel is fully visible, held in place by a dedicated bridge that allows the wearer to observe the oscillation of the escapement. This side of the watch focuses on depth and volume, with the various layers of the movement revealed through a process of careful skeletonization and component placement. The hours and minutes are indicated by blued steel hands that appear to float above the mechanical landscape, their color achieved through the precise thermal treatment of the metal.
The "Contemporary" face also features a central jumping seconds hand, a complication that adds a dynamic element to the display. The markers for the hours and minutes are located on silver rings that encircle the central opening, with the minute track placed on the periphery and the hour ring positioned slightly inward. The indices are polished and blued, matching the hands and creating a cohesive color palette that is cool, technical, and sharp. The interplay of light on the different finishes—microlight, shotpeened, and polished—creates a sense of movement and vitality even when the watch is held static. The central deltoid bridge is tiered, adding to the sense of verticality, and is flanked by two central gold wheels that hint at the complex gearing underneath required to drive the hands. This face effectively communicates the technical prowess of the manufacture, putting the mechanical innovations front and center.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Flipping the case reveals the "Classic" side, which offers a stark contrast in terms of design philosophy and aesthetic execution. This face features a domed anthracite dial that exudes a sense of traditional restraint and calm. The center of the dial is decorated with a guilloché pattern, a technique that adds texture and catches the light in a subtle, rhythmic manner. Unlike the open-worked nature of the front, this dial is solid, prioritizing legibility and a more formal appearance. The hours are marked by gilded numerals in a classic font, applied directly to the dial surface, while the minute track is printed on the outer edge in a matching gold tone. The hands on this side are made from hand-polished rose gold, curved to follow the dome of the dial, a detail that requires significant manual dexterity to execute correctly without damaging the delicate finish.
The "Classic" side is not devoid of technical intrigue, however; it also features the jumping seconds complication, indicated here by a polished titanium hand that ticks precisely from one second to the next. This "dead beat" second is a rare complication in mechanical watchmaking, mimicking the precise motion of a quartz watch but achieved through purely mechanical means. It serves as a testament to the precision of the regulator and the control the movement exerts over the release of energy. The combination of the anthracite background, the rose gold hands, and the guilloché finish creates a warm, sophisticated look that stands in direct opposition to the cold, architectural style of the reverse side. This duality allows the watch to adapt to different social settings or personal preferences without requiring the user to change timepieces.
The movement powering this dual personality is the Calibre DB2517, a mechanical manual-winding engine developed and manufactured entirely in-house by De Bethune. The movement operates at a frequency optimized for stability and precision, utilizing a silicon escape wheel to reduce friction and energy consumption. One of the most critical features of this calibre is the twin barrel system, a De Bethune innovation from 2004, which provides a generous power reserve of four days. The barrels are self-regulating, ensuring that the torque delivered to the escapement remains constant throughout the discharge cycle, which significantly improves the isochronism of the balance. This long power reserve is particularly practical for a manual-wind watch, reducing the frequency with which the user needs to interact with the crown.
The escapement of the DB2517 is a showcase of high-tech materials and aerodynamic engineering. It features a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, a patented design from 2016 that optimizes the balance's inertia while minimizing its mass. This construction allows the balance wheel to be lighter than a traditional solid wheel while maintaining the necessary momentum to regulate the timekeeping accurately. Furthermore, the balance is fitted with a "De Bethune" balance spring with a flat terminal curve, a 2006 patent that ensures concentric breathing of the spring, improving the watch's positional accuracy. The use of silicon for the escape wheel further enhances the movement's resistance to magnetic fields and temperature fluctuations, ensuring that the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT remains accurate in a variety of conditions.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The GMT function of the watch is integrated directly into the architecture of the movement, rather than being a modular addition. This integration is necessary due to the unique requirement of driving hands on two opposite sides of the movement. Since the hands on both dials must rotate clockwise, the gearing for the reverse side must invert the direction of rotation relative to the movement's main train. This complex system of gears and pinions is invisible to the user but is essential for the intuitive operation of the watch. The user sets the reference time, or "home time," on the contemporary side using the crown in the third position. This sets the minute hand and the hour hand for the primary display. To set the second time zone, the user pulls the crown to the second position, which allows the adjustment of the hour hand on the classic side independently. This simplified adjustment method makes the watch extremely user-friendly despite its internal complexity.
Visual examination of the contemporary dial reveals the intricate layering of the movement components. The silver hour ring is intersected by the blued steel bridges, creating a frame for the mechanical action within. The centrally positioned hands are skeletonized at their base, allowing a view of the pinion and the central wheels below. The "microlight" finishing mentioned in the technical specifications is a specific type of decoration developed by De Bethune, consisting of ultra-fine parallel grooves that scatter light in a unique way, replacing the traditional Geneva stripes often found on Swiss watches. This finish is applied to the mainplate and bridges, giving the movement a distinctly modern texture that complements the polished titanium surfaces. The overall effect is one of high-contrast industrial design, where every component is finished to a standard that withstands magnification.
On the classic side, the visual language changes to one of curves and softness. The convex levels of the dial add a sense of volume, preventing the watch from looking flat despite the solid dial. The central guilloché part acts as a focal point, drawing the eye inward, while the gold hands provide excellent contrast against the dark anthracite background. The jumping seconds hand on this side is particularly mesmerizing, as its staccato motion contrasts with the smooth curves of the dial and hands. The juxtaposition of the rose gold elements with the titanium case creates a bi-metal aesthetic that is subtle and refined. The floating lugs are visible from this side as well, their open-worked design framing the classic dial in a technical chassis, reminding the wearer of the modern engineering housing the traditional face.
The "dead beat" or jumping seconds mechanism deserves further elaboration. In a standard mechanical watch, the seconds hand sweeps smoothly (or in high-frequency micro-steps). In the DB Kind of Two, a system of gears and a spring allows the seconds hand to store energy and release it in one distinct jump every second. This mechanism, known as the De Bethune Dead Beat Second (an innovation from 2011), requires precise calibration to ensure that the jump aligns perfectly with the markers on the dial. It is a complication that historically appealed to doctors and navigators for its legibility and precision in timing events. In this context, it serves as a bridge between the two identities of the watch, a technical feat visible on both the modern and traditional dials.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The sapphire crystals on both sides of the watch are treated with a double anti-reflective coating, ensuring that the dials remain legible even in direct light. The crystals are hardened to 1800 Vickers, making them virtually scratch-proof and protecting the delicate mechanics and finish of the dials. The use of double-sided crystals adds to the thickness of the watch slightly but is necessary to accommodate the height of the hands and the relief of the dials on both faces. The 11.4mm thickness is impressively slender given that it effectively houses two watches and a swiveling chassis. The floating lugs help to mitigate the perceived size, allowing the strap to drop sharply from the case edge to hug the wrist, making the 43.3mm diameter wearable for a variety of wrist sizes.
The strap provided with the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is made from supple lined alligator leather, a material chosen for its comfort and durability. The strap is attached to the floating lugs, ensuring that the articulation of the lugs is not hindered by the stiffness of the leather. The quality of the strap is consistent with the high standards of the watch head, featuring tight stitching and a finish that complements the anthracite and silver tones of the dials. The buckle is likely crafted from the same grade 5 titanium as the case, maintaining the lightweight characteristics of the entire package. The integration of the strap into the floating lug design is seamless, creating a unified silhouette that is distinctively De Bethune.
The manufacturing process at De Bethune is described as being limited by the "human scale" of their workshops. This indicates a production philosophy that prioritizes hand-finishing and individual assembly over mass production. Every component of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, from the blued titanium hands to the gold inserts in the balance wheel, is produced and finished with a level of care that restricts the total output of the manufacture. The polishing of the titanium case alone is a labor-intensive process that cannot be automated, requiring skilled artisans to achieve the perfect mirror finish on the complex curves of the floating lugs and the swiveling case. This human element is crucial to the value proposition of the watch, ensuring that each piece is a singular example of horological art.
The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is a functional instrument that solves a specific travel problem—tracking multiple time zones—in a way that is mechanically ingenious. By separating the local time and home time onto two different dials, the watch avoids the clutter often associated with GMT watches that utilize a fourth hand or a rotating bezel. The wearer can choose to live in their "home" time on the contemporary face or switch to their travel time on the classic face (or vice versa), effectively compartmentalizing their schedule. This physical separation of time zones mirrors the mental separation often required during travel, providing a psychological benefit alongside the functional one.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The technical specifications regarding the balance wheel are particularly noteworthy for their focus on aerodynamics and thermal stability. The titanium balance wheel with white gold weights is designed to cut through the air with minimal resistance, while the weights provide the necessary inertia for stable oscillation. This design, combined with the flat terminal curve of the balance spring, ensures that the watch maintains its accuracy regardless of the temperature or the position of the watch on the wrist. These are invisible features that the owner may never see directly, but they manifest in the reliability and precision of the timekeeping. The inclusion of a silicon escape wheel is another modern touch that reduces maintenance intervals and improves the longevity of the movement by minimizing wear on the pallet stones.
In terms of pricing and availability, the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT occupies the upper echelon of the luxury watch market, a positioning that reflects the intense research, development, and manual craftsmanship required to bring it to life. Commanding a price of $235,000 USD, this timepiece is an edition strictly limited by the human scale and capacity of the De Bethune workshops, ensuring it remains a rare object intended for the most dedicated enthusiasts of independent horology rather than the mass market. The unique combination of the reversible case, the dead beat seconds complication, the proprietary high-tech materials, and the intricate dual-dial configuration firmly establishes it in a category of its own, with few if any direct competitors offering such a complex blend of features. For the collector, securing such a piece represents a deep appreciation for a philosophy of watchmaking that values innovation and tradition in equal measure, preserving the history of the craft while aggressively pursuing the future of mechanical timekeeping.
Case: Polished grade 5 titanium construction measuring 43.3mm in diameter and 11.4mm in thickness. Features polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs with a unique case turning mechanism allowing the watch to be positioned on the front or back side. Fitted with double-sided sapphire crystals (1800 Vickers hardness) featuring double anti-reflective coating.
Movement: Mechanical manual-winding Calibre DB2517 with a 4-day power reserve ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel. Technical features include a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, a "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve, a silicon escape wheel, and the De Bethune Dead Beat Second. Capable of displaying a second time zone (GMT) on the reverse side.
Dial: The contemporary single-sided display features a silver hour ring with polished blued indices and a silver minute ring with blue transfer, with the hour indication centered around the balance wheel at 6 o'clock. The classic reverse side display presents an anthracite dial with 5N transfer, convex levels, and a guilloché central part with hand-polished rose gold hands.
Strap: Supple lined alligator leather strap.
Price: $235,000 USD
Reference Number: DBK2V1S8
Notes: Features a fully reversible case allowing for two distinct aesthetic identities in one timepiece. The complex mechanism ensures hands rotate clockwise on both faces despite being driven by the same movement.