In the competitive landscape of Swiss watchmaking, certain names and creations stand out not merely for their quality, but for their historical impact. Zenith is one such name, a manufacture in the truest sense, whose legacy is inextricably linked with one of the most significant horological developments of the 20th century: the El Primero calibre. The new Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue serves as a vibrant and technically sophisticated chapter in this continuing story, merging a celebrated past with contemporary mechanics and a striking new aesthetic. This is not a simple revival of a vintage piece, but a confident reinterpretation that leverages decades of innovation.
The story of any Chronomaster Original properly begins in 1865, when Georges Favre-Jacot founded Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland. His vision was to bring all aspects of watchmaking under one roof, creating a vertically integrated manufacturing process that was revolutionary for its time. This control over every component, from conception to final assembly, allowed for unparalleled innovation and a steadfast pursuit of precision. This dedication culminated in the brand earning an unprecedented number of chronometry awards, establishing a reputation for accuracy that would become a core tenet of its identity.
Courtesy of Zenith
This foundation of precision set the stage for the pivotal year of 1969. The watch world was in the throes of an intense, unofficial race to create the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. It was a monumental technical challenge, and Zenith was a key contender. In January of that year, they unveiled their creation: the El Primero, which translates to "the first." While the debate over who was truly first continues among enthusiasts, the technical superiority of Zenith's calibre was undeniable. It was a fully integrated design, not a modular one, and most importantly, it operated at a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (VpH), or 5 Hz.
This high frequency was a game-changer. It allowed the chronograph to measure time with an accuracy of 1/10th of a second, a feat that was unmatched by its contemporaries, which typically ran at lower frequencies. The watch chosen to house this groundbreaking movement was the reference A386. Its design was as bold as the mechanics within, featuring a now-iconic dial with three overlapping subdials in distinct shades of grey and blue. The A386, with its combination of cutting-edge performance and distinctive looks, quickly became a landmark in chronograph design.
The latest iteration, the Chronomaster Original Blue, builds directly upon this formidable heritage. It is a direct descendant, carrying the spirit and design DNA of the 1969 A386 into the modern era. The most immediate and captivating feature of this new model is its dial. For the first time, the Chronomaster Original pairs the famous tri-color subdials with a deep, sunray-patterned blue main dial. This isn't just a simple color swap; the chosen blue is rich and dynamic, shifting in tone as it plays with the light, moving from a bright royal blue to a deep midnight hue.
Courtesy of Zenith
Upon closer inspection, the dial reveals layers of thoughtful design. The three signature subdials are rendered in their classic colors, creating a familiar and balanced layout. At 3 o’clock sits the 60-second counter, at 6 o’clock is the 60-minute counter, and the running small seconds display resides at 9 o’clock. The slight overlap of these registers, a faithful tribute to the original A386, adds a sense of depth and visual complexity. The counters themselves feature a subtle concentric circular pattern, which helps them stand out against the sunray finish of the main dial.
Legibility is paramount in a chronograph, and Zenith has ensured clarity without sacrificing style. The hands and the applied hour markers are rhodium-plated and faceted, designed to catch the light from any angle. They are treated with Super-LumiNova SLN C1, providing strong low-light visibility. Encircling the dial is a crisp, silver-toned outer scale marked for 1/10th of a second, which corresponds directly to the high-frequency movement’s signature function. The red central chronograph hand stands out sharply against the blue background, its tip precisely aligning with this detailed scale. A subtle date window is placed at the 4:30 position, another characteristic element inherited from the historical model.
The case of the Chronomaster Original Blue demonstrates a remarkable commitment to historical fidelity. It measures 38mm in diameter, the exact same dimension as the 1969 original. This size, considered compact by some modern standards, offers superb wearability for a wide range of wrist sizes and harks back to a period when watches were more modestly proportioned. The design was modeled directly from the original blueprints, resulting in a shape that is instantly recognizable to Zenith aficionados.
Courtesy of Zenith
It features a round, bezel-less construction which places all the emphasis on the expansive dial. The profile is sloped, flowing into elegantly faceted lugs that angle down sharply to hug the wrist. The classic "pump-style" pushers for operating the chronograph are another vintage-correct detail that enhances the watch's character. The case finishing is a sophisticated mix of surfaces; the top of the lugs features a radial brushing that contrasts beautifully with the mirror-polished case sides, creating a dynamic visual effect.
With a thickness of 12.6mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, the watch maintains a balanced and comfortable presence on the wrist. While it is a sophisticated chronograph, it offers a practical water resistance of 5 ATM (approximately 50 meters). This level of resistance is sufficient to protect the watch from splashes and rain, making it a durable companion for daily wear, though it is not intended for swimming or diving.
At the core of this timepiece beats the El Primero 3600, a modern and powerful evolution of its legendary ancestor. This automatic movement is the result of over five decades of continuous refinement and mastery of the high-frequency chronograph. It leverages the full potential of its 5 Hz frequency to provide a true and easily legible 1/10th of a second measurement. This is achieved in a brilliantly intuitive way.
When the chronograph is activated, the central seconds hand does not make a slow sweep around the dial in 60 seconds. Instead, it completes a full rotation every 10 seconds. This rapid, smooth sweep means that the hand points directly to the corresponding marking on the 1/10th of a second scale, allowing the user to read elapsed time with incredible precision and without any guesswork. It is a visually impressive and highly functional display of the movement's capabilities.
Courtesy of Zenith
The El Primero 3600 is not just about speed; it's also about endurance and convenience. The movement's architecture has been optimized to extend its autonomy, resulting in a very useful power reserve of approximately 60 hours. This is a significant increase over the original El Primero and means the watch can be taken off for a couple of days without needing to be rewound. Additionally, it features a stop-seconds mechanism, which halts the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out, allowing for precise synchronization to a reference time.
Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal case back, offering an unobstructed view into the intricate world of the calibre. The movement, composed of 311 components, is a sight to behold for any mechanical enthusiast. The architecture is modern and clean, with a prominent blue column wheel—the component that provides crisp and satisfying feedback when operating the chronograph pushers. The open-worked oscillating weight, or rotor, is finished with a satin texture and shaped into Zenith’s signature five-pointed star, winding the mainspring with the wearer's every movement.
Zenith understands that the way a watch feels and looks on the wrist is as important as the mechanics inside. To that end, the Chronomaster Original Blue is thoughtfully packaged to offer versatility right out of the box. It is delivered with two distinct strap options, allowing the owner to easily alter the watch’s personality to suit any occasion.
The first option is a high-quality blue calfskin leather strap. The color perfectly complements the dial, and the tone-on-tone stitching adds a refined touch. This strap is fitted with a stainless steel folding clasp, providing security and ease of use. On the leather strap, the watch presents a more classic and slightly formal character, making it an excellent choice for business or evening wear.
Courtesy of Zenith
The second option is a robust and sporty three-link stainless steel bracelet. This bracelet features the same mix of brushed and polished surfaces found on the case, creating a seamless and integrated look. It secures with a sturdy folding clasp. When mounted on the steel bracelet, the watch takes on a more athletic and casual demeanor, ready for any adventure. This dual offering is a significant value proposition and underscores the watch’s identity as a versatile, all-purpose chronograph.
This remarkable timepiece is positioned at a price of $10,300 USD. For this, the owner receives not just a watch, but a piece of horological history, powered by one of the most celebrated movements ever created, and presented in a fresh and visually striking blue colorway. With the added value of both a leather strap and a steel bracelet included, the Chronomaster Original Blue offers a complete and captivating experience for the discerning enthusiast.
Case: Stainless steel construction, 38mm diameter, 12.6mm thickness, 46mm lug-to-lug. Water resistance rated to 5 ATM.
Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic chronograph. Features 311 components, a frequency of 36,000 VpH (5 Hz), and an approximate power reserve of 60 hours. Includes a stop-second mechanism.
Dial: Blue-toned sunray pattern with three different-colored counters. Rhodium-plated, faceted hands and hour markers coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1.
Strap: Includes two options: a blue calfskin leather strap with a steel folding clasp and a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp.
Price: $10,300 USD / 9,900 CHF / 10,400 EUR
Reference Number: 03.3200.3600/52.C910
Notes: The high-frequency movement allows the central chronograph hand to make one full rotation in 10 seconds, enabling a true 1/10th of a second measurement. The case is a faithful reproduction of the original 1969 A386 reference.