The atmosphere at the 2026 LVMH Watch Week in Milano is charged with a specific kind of kinetic energy, one that mirrors the bustling, fashion-forward streets of the host city itself. Amidst the gathered luminaries of the luxury world—houses like Bulgari, Hublot, and TAG Heuer—Zenith stands with a quiet, confident posture, presenting a collection that feels deeply connected to the architectural rhythm of the metropolis. This year, the spotlight falls heavily on the Defy collection, a line that has historically served as the brand's canvas for avant-garde experimentation and structural resilience. The unveiling of the new Defy Skyline 36 models, particularly the striking silver-toned variations, marks a significant evolution in this lineage. It is not merely a release of new products but a reaffirmation of the brand's commitment to fusing high-frequency precision with a design language that speaks the vernacular of modern urban life. The choice of Milano as the backdrop is hardly coincidental; the city’s blend of historic grandeur and sharp, modernist angles provides the perfect context for understanding the geometric intricacies of these new timepieces.
To truly appreciate the significance of these new releases, one must look back to the origins of the manufacture itself, situated in the town of Le Locle since 1865. Zenith has long distinguished itself as the first vertically integrated Swiss watch manufacture, a place where the entire process of creation—from the stamping of the case to the assembly of the movement—occurs under a single roof. This holistic approach has allowed them to push boundaries that others might find insurmountable. The Defy collection, born in the tumult of 1969, was originally conceived as a "bank vault" on the wrist, a timepiece defined by its rugged impenetrability and audacious angularity. While the original references were tools designed to withstand shock and water, the modern Defy Skyline translates that historical resilience into an aesthetic of sophisticated durability. The new 36mm models honor this heritage not by mimicking the vintage heavyweights, but by distilling their essence into a form that is agile, wearable, and undeniably contemporary.
Courtesy of Zenith
The design philosophy driving the new Defy Skyline 36 is rooted in the concept of "living architecture," a thematic parallel that equates the construction of a timepiece with the planning of a city. Just as an architect considers the interplay of light, shadow, and structural integrity when shaping a skyline, Zenith’s watchmakers have approached the case and dial of these watches as a cohesive, three-dimensional environment. The watch is viewed as a coherent whole where the exterior form and the internal mechanics are developed in concert, creating a sense of rhythm and flow that mimics the pulse of a metropolitan landscape. This is evident in the sharp facets and structural silhouettes that define the case, elements that catch the light in a way that recalls the sun reflecting off glass and steel skyscrapers. It is a deliberate move to capture the urban spirit, transforming the abstract concept of a city into a tangible object that can be worn on the wrist.
Visually, the new silver-toned Defy Skyline 36 offers a masterclass in the manipulation of texture and light. The dial is far more than a flat surface; it is a textured expanse that draws the eye inward. The base features a sunray-patterned finish that radiates outward, creating a dynamic interplay of highlights and shadows that shifts with every movement of the wrist. Overlaid on this radiant background is the collection’s signature geometric motif: a grid of engraved four-pointed stars. This pattern is not a modern invention but a thoughtful reinterpretation of Zenith’s "double Z" logo from the 1960s. The stars are etched into the dial with precision, adding a layer of depth that makes the silver tone feel alive rather than static. In the steel version, the monochromatic palette creates an industrial yet luxurious effect, a study in shades of grey that feels incredibly modern and versatile.
The case construction itself is a testament to the brand's mastery of steel. At 36mm, the proportions are meticulously balanced, offering a unisex fit that sits comfortably on a wide variety of wrist sizes. The geometry is complex, dominated by the iconic dodecagonal bezel—a twelve-sided ring that frames the dial with architectural precision. This bezel is not just a design quirk; it serves as a visual anchor, breaking up the roundness of the traditional watch silhouette and imparting a sense of structured strength. The finishing on the case is a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, a technique that highlights the sharp lines and angles of the design. The brushed surfaces absorb light, providing a matte contrast to the polished chamfers that gleam with a mirror-like finish. This alternation of finishes accentuates the "faceted" look of the watch, giving it a jewel-like quality without compromising its sporty, robust character.
Courtesy of Zenith
For those seeking a more pronounced expression of luxury, Zenith offers a variation of the silver-dial model adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds. This is not a subtle addition; the bezel is set with 52 VVS brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 1.00 carats. The stones are of F-G quality, ensuring a colorless, icy sparkle that complements the silver dial perfectly. The setting of the diamonds on the twelve-sided bezel requires exceptional skill, as the stones must follow the angular geometry of the steel while maintaining a fluid line of brilliance. This version transforms the watch from a daily companion into a statement piece, yet it retains the underlying industrial DNA of the Defy line. The diamonds do not soften the watch’s architectural edge; rather, they enhance it, adding a layer of radiant complexity that catches the light from across the room. It creates a fascinating tension between the hardness of the steel and the brilliance of the stones, a duality that defines modern urban elegance.
Readability remains a paramount concern for Zenith, and the Defy Skyline 36 excels in this regard despite its intricate dial pattern. The hour markers are rhodium-plated and faceted, designed to stand out clearly against the patterned background. Both the markers and the hands are coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1, a high-grade luminescent material that ensures the watch remains legible even in low-light conditions. The hands themselves are sharp and sword-like, slicing through the "starry sky" of the dial with purpose. A central seconds hand adds a dynamic element to the display, sweeping smoothly around the dial and reminding the wearer of the mechanical heart beating within. The date indication is discreetly positioned at 3 o'clock, integrated in a way that respects the symmetry of the dial while providing essential daily utility.
Powering these new creations is the Elite 670 automatic calibre, a movement that has earned its place as a staple in Zenith’s repertoire. While the El Primero is famous for its chronograph functions, the Elite series represents the brand's dedication to reliable, ultra-thin automatic movements for three-hand watches. The Elite 670 operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, a beat rate that ensures high precision and a smooth sweep of the seconds hand. The movement offers a power reserve of 50 hours, sufficient to leave the watch off the wrist for a weekend and find it still running on Monday morning. This reliability is crucial for a watch intended to be a daily driver in a fast-paced urban environment. The mechanism is not hidden away; it is visible through a transparent exhibition case back, allowing the owner to admire the mechanical architecture within.
Courtesy of Zenith
The finishing of the Elite 670 movement in these models is thoroughly modern, eschewing traditional gold tones for a sleek, silver and grey aesthetic that matches the exterior of the watch. The oscillating weight, or rotor, is a standout feature, crafted in the shape of an open star. This star-shaped rotor is finished with satin-brushing, creating a cohesive visual link between the movement and the starry pattern on the dial. Seeing the rotor spin freely through the sapphire case back adds an extra layer of enjoyment for the wearer, a reminder of the kinetic energy that powers the device. It is a movement that prioritizes performance and slimness, allowing the case to remain under 11mm in thickness, which contributes significantly to the watch’s comfort on the wrist.
Versatility is a key requirement for the modern watch enthusiast, and the Defy Skyline 36 addresses this with an ingenious interchangeable strap system. In an era where adaptability is highly improved, being able to change the look of a watch without tools is a significant advantage. The integrated steel bracelet, which flows seamlessly from the case, is constructed of two-link segments that drape comfortably around the wrist. The brushing and polishing on the bracelet links mirror the finish of the case, creating a unified, bracelet-like effect. However, with the simple push of a button located on the case back, this bracelet can be released and swapped for the included rubber strap.
The additional strap provided with the silver-dial Skyline 36 is a high-quality black rubber strap, which offers a stark, sporty contrast to the shining silver of the dial and case. This is not a generic rubber strap; it features the same starry sky pattern embossed into the rubber, continuing the design language of the dial onto the wrist. The black rubber option transforms the watch instantly, giving it a more athletic, casual appearance suitable for weekends or more active pursuits. The clasp is a folding buckle, ensuring security and ease of use. This duality—the ability to shift from the gleaming armor of the steel bracelet to the stealthy comfort of the black rubber—makes the watch feel like two distinct timepieces in one package.
The wearability of the 36mm case cannot be overstated. For decades, watch sizes trended larger, often compromising comfort for wrist presence. The return to more classic proportions like 36mm is a welcome shift, offering a size that works on virtually any wrist. On a larger wrist, it presents as a restrained, classic dress watch; on a smaller wrist, it offers a sporty, substantial presence without overhang. The faceted lugs curve downwards, hugging the wrist and ensuring that the watch sits low and stable. The screw-down crown, emblazoned with the Zenith star, is easy to grip and manipulate, providing a tactile connection to the movement inside. It also secures the case to a water resistance of 10 ATM (100 meters), making the watch robust enough for swimming and surface water sports—a true "all-rounder" specification.
Courtesy of Zenith
This release is emblematic of Zenith’s broader strategy to position the Defy collection as a pillar of contemporary watchmaking. By looking back to the 1969 original for inspiration but refusing to be bound by retro-styling, Zenith has created a product that feels entirely of the moment. The Defy Skyline 36 does not try to be a vintage reissue; it is a modern architectural object that happens to tell time. The use of the "Double Z" star pattern is a nod to history, but its execution—laser-etched on a sunray silver dial—is high-tech and precise. The watch captures a vision where watchmaking meets modern design, akin to the way contemporary architects reshape city skylines with bold geometric forms.
The choice of silver for this new iteration is particularly effective. Previous versions of the Skyline 36 explored colorful pastels like pink, green, and ice blue. By stripping away the color and focusing on the interplay of silver, steel, and light, Zenith has highlighted the pure form of the watch. The monochromatic scheme draws attention to the textures—the brushing on the bezel, the sunray on the dial, the polished chamfers on the bracelet. It is a confident, mature aesthetic that suggests a wearer who appreciates nuance and detail over loud splashes of color. The silver dial also acts as a neutral canvas, picking up the ambient colors of the environment, whether it be the cool blue light of a morning commute or the warm glow of a city at sunset.
From a collector’s perspective, the value proposition here lies in the combination of a manufacture movement, a unique and recognizable case design, and the high level of finishing. The Defy Skyline 36 is not a generic steel sports watch; it has a distinct personality defined by its twelve-sided bezel and starry dial. It stands apart from the crowd of integrated bracelet sports watches by offering a visual language that is specifically Zenith. The inclusion of the quick-change strap system and the extra rubber strap adds tangible value, effectively doubling the wearable scenarios for the owner. It is a package that respects the consumer's desire for flexibility and quality.
The distinction between the steel bezel and the diamond bezel versions allows Zenith to cater to two different impulses within the same design framework. The steel bezel version is pure architecture—sharp, industrial, and unadorned. It appeals to the purist who values the clean lines and the interplay of metal finishes. The diamond bezel version, conversely, introduces a layer of glamour and prestige. However, because the diamonds are set into the steel rather than a precious metal case, it retains a cool, modern edge. It avoids the stuffiness sometimes associated with "jewelry watches," remaining firmly grounded in the sporty, Defy aesthetic.
Courtesy of Zenith
Zenith’s history of innovation, from the flight of Louis Blériot to the stratospheric jump of Felix Baumgartner, is woven into the DNA of every watch they produce. While the Elite 670 is not the high-frequency chronograph of the El Primero, it shares the same lineage of engineering excellence. The Elite movement was developed to be a workhorse of precision, a thin and reliable engine that could power elegant watches without adding bulk. Its presence in the Defy Skyline 36 ensures that the watch is not just a pretty face but a serious horological instrument. The 50-hour power reserve is a modern standard that ensures the watch keeps pace with the rhythm of the wearer’s life.
The availability of these timepieces is immediate, catering to the global demand for Zenith’s latest creations. Both the standard steel version and the diamond-set iteration are available at Zenith boutiques, through their online platform, and at authorized retailers worldwide. The pricing reflects the premium positioning of the manufacture and the quality of the materials employed. The Defy Skyline 36 with the steel bezel is priced at 8,400 CHF (9,500 EUR / 9,400 USD). For the version enhanced with the diamond-set bezel, the price is set at 11,900 CHF (13,500 EUR / 13,300 USD). These figures position the watch competitively within the luxury sports watch segment, offering a manufacture movement and distinct design heritage for a discerning clientele.
Case: 36mm stainless steel case available with a standard steel bezel or a diamond-set bezel featuring 52 VVS brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.00 cts). Includes a screw-down crown and offers water resistance up to 10 ATM.
Movement: Elite 670 automatic manufacture calibre operating at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4 Hz). Features a star-shaped oscillating weight with satined finishings and delivers a power reserve of 50 hours. Functions include hours and minutes in the centre, central seconds hand, and date indication at 3 o'clock.
Dial: Silver-toned sunray-patterned dial decorated with an engraved starry-sky motif. Hour markers and hands are rhodium-plated, faceted, and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 for visibility.
Strap: Interchangeable stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp. Includes an additional black rubber strap featuring a starry-sky pattern and folding clasp, utilizing a quick-change system.
Price: 8,400 CHF / 9,500 EUR / 9,400 USD (Steel Model); 11,900 CHF / 13,500 EUR / 13,300 USD (Diamond Model)
Reference Number: 03.9400.670/01.I001 (Steel); 16.9400.670/01.I001 (Diamond)
Notes: New for LVMH Watch Week 2026, this 36mm unisex release introduces a silver-toned dial to the collection. The engraved star pattern on the dial is a contemporary reinterpretation of the "double Z" logo used by the brand in the 1960s.