Vanguart Black Hole

New mechanical complications and aesthetic variations often arrive with significant fanfare at major industry events, and the 2025 edition of Dubai Watch Week proved to be the launchpad for the latest evolution of the Vanguart Black Hole. The independent Swiss brand, established relatively recently in 2017, has expanded its flagship collection with two distinct iterations: a Rose Gold model and a Titanium edition featuring Arabic numerals. These releases represent a continuation of the brand's focus on complex automata and unusual time display mechanisms, moving the Black Hole platform into new visual territories while retaining the mechanical architecture that defined the original release.

Vanguart operates out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, a region deeply entrenched in Swiss watchmaking history. The brand was founded by a team with significant pedigree in the high-complication sector. CEO Axel Leuenberger and CTO Jérémy Freléchox are both alumni of Renaud & Papi (APRP), a high-end movement development firm responsible for some of the most complex calibers of the modern era. They are joined by Creative Director Thierry Fischer and Chairman Mehmet Korutürk. This background is critical for understanding the Black Hole, as the watch is less about traditional time-telling and more about the kinetic sculpture of its movement, which contains a staggering 775 components.



The defining feature of the Black Hole series is its method of displaying time. Unlike standard configurations where hands sweep across a static surface, the Black Hole utilizes a system of concentric, rotating disks. These disks are arranged in a three-tier automaton structure that fundamentally alters the visual depth of the watch. The time is read linearly, a format that requires a shift in perspective from the wearer. The discs rotate to align the current hours and minutes, creating a constantly shifting landscape on the dial side that mimics the gravitational distortion of the celestial phenomenon for which the watch is named.

The first of the two new models is encased in Grade 5 Titanium and is notable for its use of Arabic numerals. This marks a specific departure for the collection, which has previously utilized standard indices or Roman numerals. The application of Arabic script on the rotating discs adds a layer of cultural localization, specifically targeting collectors in the Middle East region where Dubai Watch Week is hosted. However, the design choice also serves a geometric purpose; the flowing curves of the Arabic characters complement the circular motion of the automaton discs more organically than the rigid straight lines of standard batons.

Visually, the Arabic Numerals edition presents a monochromatic, industrial aesthetic. The dial components are treated with an Anthracite PVD coating, creating a dark, unified background that allows the silver-toned numerals to stand out for legibility. The texturing on the dial rings appears to be a mix of micro-blasting and satin-finishing, absorbing light rather than reflecting it. This matte finish reinforces the "technical" personality of the titanium case, which weighs in at a remarkably light 80 grams despite the massive movement inside.

The second model introduces Rose Gold to the Black Hole lineup. While the titanium model focuses on lightness and industrial greys, the Rose Gold edition is significantly heavier, weighing 173 grams. This weight difference is palpable and changes the wearing experience from a sports-oriented feel to a more substantial, luxury-focused presence. The case metal is finished with a combination of micro-blasted surfaces and polished bevels. This alternating finish is crucial for breaking up the visual mass of the gold, preventing it from appearing too ostentatious while highlighting the complex geometry of the case shape.



The case architecture for both models measures 45mm diagonally. While 45mm typically suggests a very large timepiece, the Vanguart design utilizes a "lugless" construction. The strap attaches directly into the main fuselage of the case, effectively reducing the lug-to-lug distance that usually makes large watches unwearable on smaller wrists. As a result, the brand claims the watch wears more like a traditional 42mm piece. The thickness is set at 15.75mm, a necessary dimension to house the multi-tiered dial and the vertical mechanical gauge systems.

At the center of the dial sits the flying tourbillon. This regulator is described as "levitating," a visual effect achieved by the specific architecture of the tourbillon cage and its mounting points. The cage features a distinctive three-arm design, which can be seen rotating amidst the moving rings of the time display. The tourbillon serves to counter the effects of gravity on the escapement, but in this context, it functions primarily as the kinetic heart of the automaton, drawing the eye inward toward the center of the "black hole."

A unique technical aspect of the Black Hole movement is the time-setting mechanism. Traditional crowns are replaced or augmented by a high-precision joystick system. This interface allows the user to adjust the time with forward and reverse indications, a tactile interaction that differs significantly from turning a standard crown stem. This joystick mechanism is likely derived from the founders' experience with exotic complications at APRP, where novel user interfaces were often explored.

The power reserve is displayed via a vertical gauge, another element that breaks away from traditional circular subdials. The movement provides 42 hours of useful power reserve. While this might seem standard for a base caliber, it is relatively impressive for a movement driving this much mass. The automaton dial discs and the tourbillon cage require significant torque to operate, meaning the mainspring and gear train must be highly efficient to maintain chronometric stability over nearly two days of running time.



The complexity of the movement is further illustrated by the sheer number of parts. With 775 components, the caliber is far denser than a standard chronograph or perpetual calendar. The main plate and bridges are crafted from Grade 5 titanium, matching the case material of the Arabic edition. Using titanium for movement plates is notoriously difficult due to the hardness of the material and the risk of fire during machining, but it offers superior rigidity and shock resistance compared to traditional brass.

Finishing on the movement components is extensive and varied. The specifications list micro-blasting, satin-finishing, block-polishing, and hand-beveling. Examining the open-worked areas of the watch, one can see the sharp interior angles and mirrored surfaces on the chamfers of the bridges. These haute horlogerie techniques are applied to a thoroughly modern, almost sci-fi architectural layout, creating a contrast between old-world craftsmanship and futuristic design.

The rear of the watch reveals the flip side of this intricate engine. The caseback is equipped with sapphire crystal apertures that offer a view into the gear train and the mounting points of the joystick mechanism. The industrial aesthetic continues here, with the titanium bridges featuring a darker, blast-finished texture that highlights the polished screw heads and jewel sinks. The text engraving on the back indicates the limited nature of the series and the Swiss origin of the manufacture.

The dial of the Rose Gold model is described as "faceless" in some brand communications, though it technically retains the time-telling rings. The term likely refers to the monochromatic integration of the dial components with the case, or perhaps a specific configuration where the indices are minimized to emphasize the form of the gold and the motion of the mechanics. The interplay of shadow and reflection on the gold surfaces aims to create a feeling of time rather than a stark readout, aligning with a philosophy of artistic restraint.



The Arabic Numerals edition is paired with a "sand" colored rubber strap. This color choice softens the stark grey of the titanium and anthracite dial, adding a desert-inspired tone that links back to the Dubai launch location. The strap is integrated seamlessly into the case flanks, maintaining the continuous flow of the silhouette. The texture of the rubber appears matte, providing a grip and durability suitable for a sports-adjacent timepiece.

Conversely, the Rose Gold edition comes on an anthracite rubber strap. The darker strap contrasts sharply with the warm tones of the gold case, anchoring the visual weight of the watch. The buckle and clasp systems for these straps are likely designed to counterbalance the heavy watch head, ensuring it remains centered on the wrist without sliding. The integration of rubber on a high-complication gold watch is a modern standard that acknowledges the lifestyle of current collectors who prefer durability over fragile leather.

The Vanguart logo and branding are subtly integrated into the design. The "V" motif is often repeated in the structural elements, such as the tourbillon cage or the strap hardware. This consistent design language helps establish a brand identity that does not rely solely on a printed name on the dial. The overall aesthetic is aggressive and architectural, fitting well within the niche of "hyper-horology" occupied by brands like Urwerk or MB&F.

From a collectability standpoint, the limitation of these pieces is extremely strict. Only 8 examples of the Arabic Numerals edition and 8 examples of the Rose Gold edition will be produced. This scarcity ensures exclusivity and reflects the limited production capacity of a boutique manufacture creating movements of this complexity. The low production number also allows for a high degree of hand-finishing on each unit, as the watchmakers are not pressured by mass-market volume targets.



The Vanguart Black Hole is not a timepiece for the novice. It requires an understanding of non-traditional time displays and an appreciation for the mechanical engineering required to drive heavy, rotating discs. The joystick setting, the vertical power reserve, and the concentric automaton are features that appeal to those who have already experienced standard complications and are looking for something that challenges the norms of the industry.

Pricing for these new editions places them firmly in the upper echelon of the luxury market. The Black Hole Arabic Numerals edition in titanium is priced at CHF 355,000. The Black Hole Rose Gold edition commands a higher price due to the precious metal content, listed at CHF 410,000. Both models are available immediately following their debut at Dubai Watch Week 2025, though with only eight pieces per variation, allocation will likely be tightly controlled through the brand’s retail partners and direct client relations.

Case: 45mm diagonal (wears like 42mm due to lugless design) x 15.75mm thickness; available in Grade 5 Titanium (80 grams) with microblasted fuselage or Rose Gold (173 grams) with polished fuselage; both feature microblasted exoskeleton with polished bevels.

Movement: In-house levitating flying tourbillon with concentric 3-tier automaton dial and linear time display; 775 components; 42-hour power reserve; Grade 5 Titanium main plate and bridges; features high-precision joystick time setting and vertical power reserve gauge; finishes include microblasting, satin-finishing, block-polishing, and hand-beveling.

Dial: Grade 5 Titanium with Anthracite PVD coating; hand-painted indications; Arabic model features Arabic numerals; Rose Gold model features microblasted and satin-finished surfaces.

Strap: Sand rubber strap (Arabic model) or Anthracite rubber strap (Rose Gold model).

Price: CHF 355,000 (Arabic Titanium) / CHF 410,000 (Rose Gold)

Notes: Limited to 8 pieces per model; unveiled during Dubai Watch Week 2025; features a unique joystick time-setting mechanism with forward and reverse indication.