The Hourstriker Verdict
I've always found the Twelve X to be peak Christopher Ward for me personally. I spent a good deal of time with the original titanium model and just loved it. The hand finished steel follow up was a drop dead gorgeous watch as well. For the newest Twelve X, Christopher Ward went to the dark side and did the watch in stainless steel with a black DLC coating. The watch just looks awesome and sinister in my opinion.
— Peter, Editor-in-Chief
The independent British watchmaker Christopher Ward has formally announced the Twelve X Black Shadow, a strictly limited edition of 150 pieces that expands upon their integrated bracelet sports watch collection. This release utilizes a 41mm stainless steel case and integrated bracelet architecture coated entirely in diamond-like carbon, or DLC, resulting in a matte black finish. By utilizing this surface treatment, the manufacturer addresses the inherent vulnerabilities of standard 316L stainless steel, significantly increasing the Vickers hardness rating of the exterior components to mitigate abrasive wear and superficial scratching. The physical dimensions of the timepiece measure 12.30mm in overall thickness with a lug-to-lug distance of 44.50mm, ensuring a compact profile relative to the mechanical volume required by the internal caliber. The total weight of the watch, including the fully linked steel bracelet, is specified at 147 grams, while the case module alone accounts for 65 grams of that total mass. This specific release represents a technical escalation from the standard production models of the Twelve, transitioning from conventional closed dials and outsourced base calibers to a fully skeletonized, proprietary mechanical architecture.
The application of the diamond-like carbon coating warrants specific technical analysis, as it differs fundamentally from conventional physical vapor deposition techniques utilized in lower-tier manufacturing. DLC coatings consist of a nanocomposite material that exhibits properties of both diamond and graphite, applied within a vacuum environment to bond directly with the metallic substrate on a molecular level. This process yields an extremely low coefficient of friction and a surface hardness that drastically outperforms standard industrial coatings, providing practical utility for a sports watch exposed to varied environmental hazards. Unlike traditional electroplating or standard ion plating, which can chip or delaminate under impact, a properly executed DLC coating integrates with the crystalline structure of the base steel, ensuring long-term structural integrity. The resulting matte black visual profile absorbs ambient light rather than reflecting it, creating a distinct aesthetic contrast against the highly machined metallic components visible through the sapphire interfaces.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
The Case and Dial
The structural geometry of the Twelve X Black Shadow relies heavily on its signature dodecagonal, or 12-sided, bezel, which requires precise machining to maintain its complex alternating surface finishes. The bezel architecture incorporates polished bevels, linearly brushed flat surfaces, and sandblasted recessed sections, a combination that necessitates multiple stages of manual and automated finishing before the final DLC coating is applied. This multi-faceted approach to exterior finishing provides distinct visual separation between the structural components of the case, preventing the matte black treatment from rendering the overall geometry completely monolithic. The case design is rated to a water resistance of 10 atmospheres, or 100 meters, a specification achieved through precise gasket tolerances and the integration of a threaded, screw-down crown mechanism. The utilization of a box-style sapphire crystal on the obverse side of the case allows for a thinner physical bezel while providing the necessary clearance for the central pinion and handset. This crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating on both the interior and exterior surfaces to minimize light refraction and maximize the legibility of the underlying mechanical components under direct illumination.
The dial of the Twelve X Black Shadow has been entirely eliminated in favor of a structural sapphire interface and an exposed mechanical layout, providing a direct visual pathway to the underlying caliber. A lume-filled rhodium minute ring circumscribes the perimeter of the dial area, holding the structural tension of the hour markers while framing the central gear train and mainspring assemblies. Time indication is executed via brushed and polished rhodium hands, which are heavily treated with Super-LumiNova Grade X1 BL C1, a high-yield photoluminescent compound that emits a distinct blue-green wavelength in low-light conditions. At the 12 o'clock position, the manufacturer has applied a marker constructed from Globolight, an innovative ceramic-based compound infused directly with luminous material, allowing for multi-dimensional light emission rather than standard planar luminescence. The visual data derived from the macro photography reveals a highly industrial design language, characterized by thick, dark grey bridges and plates that contrast sharply against the bright brass tones of the gear wheels and the deep red hue of the synthetic ruby bearing jewels.
The decision to skeletonize the movement required a fundamental redesign of the base caliber's structural plates to ensure that the removal of material did not compromise the torsional rigidity of the mechanical assembly. The resulting architecture visible beneath the handset relies on straight-grained brushing across the primary load-bearing bridges, with prominent, polished screw heads providing distinct points of visual fixation. The winding mechanism and the keyless works are partially exposed at the 3 o'clock position, allowing the user to observe the mechanical interaction of the sliding pinion and the winding stem during manual power input. Unlike traditional skeletonized watches that prioritize highly decorative engraving and extensive anglage, the Twelve X Black Shadow adopts an austere, architectural approach to movement display, emphasizing structural mass and industrial machining over classical ornamentation. The careful distribution of visual weight ensures legibility is not entirely sacrificed for aesthetic complexity.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
The Movement
Powering the Twelve X Black Shadow is the Calibre SH21 CA, an extensively modified, skeletonized variant of the manufacturer's proprietary CW-001 mechanical architecture. This self-winding movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hertz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, utilizing 26 synthetic ruby jewels to minimize friction across the primary gear train and escapement pivots. The defining technical characteristic of the SH21 CA is its exceptional 120-hour power reserve, a five-day autonomous operational capacity achieved through the implementation of twin mainspring barrels. These dual energy reservoirs are arranged to provide a massive linear release of torque to the escapement assembly, mitigating the isochronal errors that typically plague single-barrel movements as mainspring tension depletes. By distributing the mechanical load across two distinct springs, the caliber maintains optimal amplitude across a much wider segment of its power curve, directly contributing to its high degree of chronometric stability.
To validate this mechanical stability, the Calibre SH21 CA is subjected to the rigorous testing protocols of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, earning formal COSC chronometer certification. This certification mandates that the uncased movement must maintain an average daily rate of -4 to +6 seconds per day across fifteen days of continuous testing in five distinct physical positions and three temperature variations. Achieving this standard within a highly skeletonized architecture requires exceptional manufacturing tolerances, as the reduction of structural mass in the base plates can introduce microscopic flexure that negatively impacts the alignment of the gear train. The multi-angled bridgework responsible for securing the twin barrels and the central wheel assembly is manufactured using an Elara NS CNC milling machine, a specialized piece of industrial equipment capable of achieving the exacting micron-level tolerances required for such an open-worked design. This extreme rigidity is paramount for maintaining the structural parameters required to hold the COSC certification across a five-day power reserve.
The exhibition case back, fitted with a secondary flat sapphire crystal, reveals the kinetic components of the self-winding system and the regulating organ of the caliber. The central rotor has been aggressively hollowed out, featuring a skeletonized design that incorporates a dense peripheral mass to maximize the inertial force applied to the winding module during daily wear. This specific rotor geometry ensures that the mass of the oscillating weight does not obscure the underlying architecture of the gear train or the balance bridge. The balance wheel itself, visible oscillating at the perimeter of the movement, utilizes a smooth rim design and relies on a conventional index regulator for precise rate adjustments. The layout presents a highly technical visual signature that prioritizes functional observation over traditional finishing techniques.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
The Strap
The Twelve X Black Shadow is secured to the wrist by a 25mm integrated stainless steel bracelet, matching the case with a full matte black DLC application. The link geometry features a distinct taper from the lugs down to the clasp, utilizing a combination of brushed top surfaces and highly polished chamfers on the outer edges to provide structural contrast. The integration of a quick-release system at the primary end-link allows for rapid detachment from the case module without the requirement of specialized watchmaking tools, facilitating easy transition to alternative straps.
The bracelet terminates in a twin-trigger butterfly clasp, an enclosure style chosen to maintain an uninterrupted external profile when secured on the wrist. This specific clasp features an integrated micro-adjustment mechanism, a significant engineering challenge given the compact dimensional constraints inherent to hidden butterfly deployments. The mechanism permits the wearer to extend the bracelet length by 1.5 millimeters on each side, yielding a total internal circumference adjustment of 3 millimeters to accommodate natural wrist expansion.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
Pricing and Availability
The Christopher Ward Twelve X Black Shadow is officially priced at $6,275.00 in the United States market. The retail cost represents the highest tier of the manufacturer's current pricing hierarchy. This production run is strictly limited to an output of 150 individual units worldwide, categorizing it as a highly restricted allocation within the brand's broader catalog.
The pricing structure is directly reflective of the manufacturer's direct-to-consumer distribution model, which eliminates wholesale margins to maintain a specific cost-to-specification ratio. The integration of advanced DLC surface treatments, complex CNC-milled skeletonization, and a proprietary chronometer-certified twin-barrel caliber dictate the premium positioning of this reference. This marks a distinct evolution from the standard stainless steel variants of the Twelve series.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
Technical Specifications
Case: 41mm diameter, 12.30mm height, 44.50mm lug-to-lug, DLC stainless steel, 10 ATM (100m) water resistance
Movement: Calibre SH21 CA (CW-001), automatic, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 26 jewels, 120-hour power reserve, COSC chronometer certified
Dial: Skeletonized layout, applied Globolight 12 o'clock marker, Super-LumiNova Grade X1 BL C1, sapphire structural interface
Strap: 25mm DLC Black Steel integrated bracelet, twin-trigger butterfly clasp with 3mm micro-adjustment mechanism
Price: $6,275.00
Reference Number: C12-41A5D1-SD0K0-B0
Notes: Limited edition of 150 pieces worldwide, total weight including bracelet is 147g