Ulysse Nardin has once again demonstrated its flair for the dramatic and its mastery over complex watchmaking with the introduction of the Blast Sparkling Rainbow. This timepiece is a vivid explosion of color and mechanical artistry, a creation that pushes the boundaries of both high jewelry and avant-garde horology. Limited to a mere eight pieces worldwide, it represents a confluence of audacious design, meticulous craftsmanship, and technical innovation. The watch is not merely a time-telling device; it is a wearable sculpture, a statement piece that commands attention and speaks volumes about the brand’s fearless approach to watchmaking in the 21st century. It takes the architectural, stealth-fighter-inspired form of the Blast collection and reimagines it through a prism of radiant gemstones, creating an object of breathtaking beauty and complexity.
Since its establishment in 1846 in Le Locle, Switzerland,
Ulysse Nardin has cultivated a reputation built on precision and a relentless spirit of innovation. Initially famed for its highly accurate marine chronometers, which were indispensable tools for naval officers and explorers, the manufacture has consistently charted its own course. This history is not just a footnote but the very foundation upon which a watch like the Blast Sparkling Rainbow is built. The brand’s historical expertise in creating reliable and precise instruments has evolved over nearly two centuries into a capacity for producing some of the most mechanically inventive and aesthetically daring timepieces in the industry. From pioneering the use of silicon in watch movements to developing revolutionary complications, Ulysse Nardin has never shied away from the difficult or the unconventional. This legacy of disruption is palpable in the Blast collection, which first launched in 2020 and continues to serve as a canvas for the brand’s most forward-thinking ideas.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The visual impact of the Blast Sparkling Rainbow is immediate and profound. The 45 mm case, crafted from 18-carat white gold, serves as the precious metal canvas for an extraordinary display of gem-setting. A total of 211 colored sapphires, amounting to a remarkable 13.33 carats, adorn nearly every surface of the watch. These stones are not arranged in a simple, predictable pattern but flow in a seamless, vibrant gradient that encircles the entire timepiece. The spectrum of color transitions with a fluid grace, moving from deep purples and blues on one side, through verdant greens, sunny yellows, fiery oranges, and passionate reds on the other. This rainbow effect is not confined to the bezel but extends across the complex, multi-faceted lugs of the case, onto the crown, and even onto the deployant buckle of the strap, ensuring a holistic and immersive visual experience.
At the heart of this horological spectacle is the rare and painstaking art of the "mystery setting," a technique mastered by only a small cadre of highly skilled artisans. This method, also referred to as invisible setting, creates the magical illusion that the sapphires are floating on the watch, held in place by an unseen force. Each stone is meticulously cut with a special groove on its underside, allowing it to be slid onto a hidden white gold lattice structure. From the top, no prongs or metal settings are visible, which allows the gemstones to sit flush against one another, forming an uninterrupted mosaic of color. This technique maximizes the light that passes through each sapphire, enhancing its brilliance and creating a dazzling shimmer that follows the wearer's every movement. The process is incredibly delicate and time-consuming, requiring at least four weeks of dedicated work for a single watch.
The selection and cutting of the gemstones are as critical as the setting itself. To achieve the flawless gradient of the rainbow, the sapphires were rigorously chosen to ensure a perfect color match from one stone to the next. The journey through the color spectrum appears almost natural, an effect that belies the immense discipline and effort involved in sourcing and sorting the stones. Furthermore, the geometric complexity of the Blast case requires a staggering variety of cuts. A total of 85 different and unique cuts are used for the sapphires, each one custom-shaped to fit its specific location on the case, bezel, dial, or clasp. This meticulous approach ensures that the vibrant flow of color remains unbroken, even across the sharp angles and architectural lines that define the Blast's design.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The case of the Blast Sparkling Rainbow is a marvel of both gem-setting and watch construction. Measuring 45 mm in diameter and 13.35 mm in thickness, it possesses a substantial and modern presence on the wrist. The 18-carat white gold provides a cool, neutral backdrop that allows the colors of the sapphires to take center stage. The case itself is set with 77 of these invisibly set rainbow-colored sapphires, totaling 5.82 carats. The sharp, angular lugs, a signature of the Blast design inspired by the folded surfaces of a stealth aircraft, are meticulously paved with these stones, transforming their aggressive geometry into something vibrant and jewel-like. Despite its ornate decoration, the watch maintains a degree of robustness, offering a water resistance of 50 meters, making it suitable for daily wear.
The bezel is another focal point of the watch's dazzling exterior. It is adorned with 64 invisibly set, baguette-cut sapphires that contribute another 3.92 carats to the total gem weight. These stones form a perfect, uninterrupted circle of cascading color, framing the dial and drawing the eye inward towards the mechanical heart of the timepiece. The crown, often a purely functional component, is also given the high-jewelry treatment, set with 8 sapphires weighing a total of 0.2 carats. This attention to detail ensures that no aspect of the watch's exterior was overlooked, creating a cohesive and utterly spectacular design from every angle. The total weight of the watch, 177.19 grams, gives it a feeling of substance and quality befitting its precious materials and intricate construction.
Peering through the sapphire crystal, one discovers a dial that is as mechanically complex as the case is colorful. The watch features an openworked, or skeletonized, design that does away with a traditional dial face, instead revealing the intricate architecture of the movement beneath. This three-dimensional design is a hallmark of the Blast collection, characterized by a large "X" structure that appears to hold the various components in place. On the Blast Sparkling Rainbow, this structure becomes a stage for further gem-setting. The skeletonized dial is set with 48 invisibly set sapphires, adding 2.46 carats and extending the rainbow motif directly into the heart of the watch. The hands, also skeletonized, are tipped with luminous material for readability, sweeping over the vibrant and mechanical landscape below.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Powering this exceptional timepiece is the Caliber UN-172, a self-winding manufacture movement that is a testament to Ulysse Nardin's commitment to in-house innovation. This is not simply a standard movement decorated for the occasion; it was developed as an integrated caliber, meaning its design and architecture are intrinsically linked to the overall design of the Blast watch. The movement is composed of 137 parts and 25 jewels, operating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour. This deliberate, steady beat allows for a clear view of the escapement's motion and contributes to the watch's impressive 72-hour power reserve, meaning it can be left unworn for three full days without needing to be rewound.
One of the most captivating features of the UN-172 movement is its flying tourbillon, which is prominently displayed at the 6 o'clock position. The tourbillon, a complication originally invented to counteract the effects of gravity on a pocket watch's accuracy, involves placing the escapement and balance wheel within a rotating cage. A flying tourbillon is a more complex and visually stunning version, as it is supported only from below, giving the impression that it is floating freely. This mesmerizing dance of mechanics adds a layer of kinetic art to the watch, a constant, visible reminder of the sophisticated engineering within.
Ulysse Nardin's pioneering work with silicon is also on full display in the Caliber UN-172. The escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring are all crafted from this advanced material. Ulysse Nardin was one of the very first watchmakers to introduce silicon technology into serial production with the launch of the revolutionary Freak watch in 2001. Silicon offers significant advantages over traditional materials: it is lightweight, anti-magnetic, resistant to corrosion, and does not require lubrication, which leads to improved accuracy, greater longevity, and reduced servicing requirements. The use of silicon in such a high-jewelry piece underscores the brand's philosophy of blending traditional métiers d'art with cutting-edge technology.
A key element of the UN-172's design is the platinum micro-rotor, which is visible at the 12 o’clock position. In most automatic watches, the winding rotor is a large, semi-circular weight that covers much of the movement. By using a smaller micro-rotor made of dense platinum and placing it on the dial side, Ulysse Nardin achieves efficient winding without obstructing the view of the intricate skeletonized architecture. This placement also creates a pleasing symmetry with the tourbillon at 6 o'clock, reinforcing the geometric balance of the overall design. The self-winding capability provides a practical convenience, ensuring the watch remains powered through the natural motion of the wearer's wrist.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The Blast Sparkling Rainbow is completed by an integrated white rubber strap. The choice of white provides a clean, contemporary contrast to the riot of color on the case, allowing the sapphires to stand out with maximum impact. The strap is not merely an afterthought; its design flows seamlessly from the angular lugs of the case, creating a unified and ergonomic fit on the wrist. The integration of the strap is a key part of the Blast's modern aesthetic, enhancing its sporty yet luxurious character.
Even the buckle of the strap is a piece of high jewelry in its own right. It is a white gold deployant buckle, which offers a more secure and comfortable closure than a traditional pin buckle. In keeping with the rest of the watch, the buckle is lavishly decorated, set with 14 invisibly set rainbow-colored sapphires that total 0.93 carats. This final touch demonstrates an uncompromising commitment to detail, ensuring that the experience of luxury and craftsmanship extends to every single component of the timepiece.
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Sparkling Rainbow is a powerful illustration of the brand's dual strengths: a profound respect for traditional handcraftsmanship and an unyielding drive for technical and aesthetic innovation. It continues the narrative of the manufacture as a creator of haute horlogerie with a decidedly contemporary twist. It takes the established codes of fine watchmaking—precious materials, intricate complications, and artistic decoration—and reinterprets them through a bold, modern lens. The result is a watch that feels both timeless in its artistry and entirely of the moment in its design.
The creation of each Blast Sparkling Rainbow is an exercise in patience and precision. The four-week process required just to set the stones, combined with the intricate assembly of the UN-172 movement and the meticulous finishing of the case, means that production is inherently limited. This rarity is by design, ensuring that each of the eight pieces is an exclusive work of art, a testament to the skill and dedication of the artisans at the Ulysse Nardin manufacture in Le Locle.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The combination of 211 sapphires, the "mystery setting" technique, the advanced silicon components, the flying tourbillon, and the radical skeletonized architecture makes the Blast Sparkling Rainbow a truly exceptional creation. It is a watch that tells a story of light, color, and mechanical ingenuity. It is a celebration of Ulysse Nardin's history and a bold proclamation of its future, a future where there are no boundaries between art, science, and the craft of watchmaking.
Given its extreme rarity and the extraordinary level of craftsmanship and precious materials involved, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Sparkling Rainbow, reference 1720-400B1LE-9A-RAIN/3A, is positioned at the highest echelon of the market. With a price of $514,700, it is an acquisition reserved for the most dedicated collectors of both high horology and high jewelry. Its availability is strictly limited to a series of just eight pieces for the entire world, making it one of the most exclusive releases from the brand. For the fortunate few who will own one, it offers an unparalleled experience—a vibrant, technically advanced, and artistically magnificent piece of Ulysse Nardin's enduring legacy.
Case: 45 mm 18 ct white gold case, 13.35 mm thickness, 50 m water resistance, sapphire crystal case-back. Case, bezel, and crown are set with 149 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totaling 9.94 carats.
Movement: Caliber UN-172 manufacture skeleton movement, self-winding with platinum micro-rotor. Features a flying tourbillon, silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, 25 jewels, and a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz).
Dial: Skeletonised dial set with 48 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totaling 2.46 carats.
Strap: Integrated white rubber strap with a white gold deployant buckle set with 14 invisibly set rainbow-coloured sapphires totaling 0.93 carats.
Price: $514,700
Reference Number: 1720-400B1LE-9A-RAIN/3A
Notes: Limited edition of 8 pieces. Decorated with a total of 211 sapphires (13.33 carats) using a rare "mystery setting" technique that takes at least four weeks per watch.