Ulysse Nardin has consistently positioned itself at the vanguard of horological innovation, a reputation solidified in 2001 with the debut of the Freak. This timepiece was a radical departure from convention, featuring no traditional dial, hands, or crown, instead using its own movement to indicate the time. It was a piece of mechanical rebellion that also pioneered the extensive use of silicon, setting a new course for 21st-century watchmaking. Now, the legacy evolves with the introduction of the Freak S Enamel, a fusion of this avant-garde spirit with the centuries-old craft of enameling. Presented in two distinct, limited editions—one with a vibrant turquoise blue dial and another in deep ruby red—these watches represent a new pinnacle for the collection.
The journey of Ulysse Nardin began in 1846, rooted in the production of highly accurate marine chronometers essential for naval navigation. This foundation in precision engineering has remained a core tenet of the brand. However, it was the visionary thinking of individuals like Dr. Ludwig Oechslin that propelled the manufacture into a new era. The original Freak was his brainchild, a watch that did more than just tell time; it challenged the very definition of a wristwatch. By turning the movement into the time-telling indicator, it broke foundational rules and established a new design language. This spirit of defiance and creative freedom is the bedrock upon which every subsequent Freak model has been built.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The Freak S represents the current apex of this lineage, often described as the most complex time-only watch ever conceived. It is a marvel of Haute Horlogerie that pushes technological and creative boundaries. Before the introduction of the enamel editions, the Freak S was already a statement piece, defined by its striking three-dimensional architecture, its patented Grinder automatic winding system, and its groundbreaking use of a double oscillator. This new chapter adds another layer of complexity and artistry, integrating an ancient decorative technique into a hyper-modern mechanical framework.
At the core of the Freak S Enamel is the Manufacture Caliber UN-251, a self-winding movement that operates on a completely different conceptual level than traditional watch calibers. Its architecture is not built on two simple planes but is instead a complex assembly spanning six distinct gear planes. This intricate structure is necessary to accommodate its most visually arresting feature: two oversized silicon balance wheels, each inclined at a 20-degree angle. These oscillators appear to be suspended in space, beating in separate planes, a spectacle of kinetic art visible through the sapphire crystal.
To manage the rates of these two independent oscillators, Ulysse Nardin integrated the world’s smallest mechanical vertical differential. This component, composed of 47 meticulously engineered parts and six ceramic ball bearings, performs the crucial task of averaging the oscillations from the two balance wheels. This averaging function enhances the movement's precision and stability. The differential itself is an unprecedented feat of micromechanics, developed with specialists who also create components for high-tech medical instruments, a testament to the extreme precision involved in its creation.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The assembly of the Caliber UN-251 is an exercise in meticulous craftsmanship. The movement comprises 373 components and 33 jewels, all brought together by a single watchmaker. It operates at a frequency of 2 x 2.5 Hz (2 x 18,000 vibrations per hour), a deliberate choice to enhance efficiency and contribute to the substantial 72-hour power reserve. The functions are distilled to the essentials of hours and minutes, yet the method of display is anything but simple. The entire movement acts as a flying carousel, rotating on its own axis once every hour to indicate the minutes, while a pointer on the rotating hour disc indicates the hours.
Ulysse Nardin's pioneering work with silicon is central to the identity of the Freak collection. The brand was the first to utilize this material not as a minor detail but as a foundational element. Silicon's properties—lightweight, flexible, low-friction, and completely anti-magnetic—offer significant performance advantages, improving accuracy, durability, and long-term reliability. The Caliber UN-251 contains ten in-house silicon components, including the prominent balance wheels and their associated hairsprings.
Further enhancing this technological advantage is the use of DIAMonSIL on the escapements. Patented by Ulysse Nardin in 2007, this technology involves coating silicon parts with a layer of synthetic diamond. This fusion creates a surface that is incredibly hard and resistant to friction and shock. Given that the escapement endures over 150 million impacts per year, this level of durability is essential. The production of these advanced components takes place at Sigatec, the brand's specialized silicon laboratory in Switzerland, reflecting over two decades of proprietary expertise in the field.
Powering such a complex and energy-intensive dual-oscillator movement presents a significant challenge. Ulysse Nardin’s solution is the Grinder automatic winding system, first introduced in the 2017 Freak InnoVision 2 concept watch. It is designed to be far more efficient than traditional winding rotors. The system uses a frame connected to four separate blades, which allows it to capture and convert even the slightest movements of the wrist into usable energy for the mainspring. This mechanism ensures that the 72-hour power reserve is maintained effectively, keeping the high-tech engine running at peak performance.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
While the mechanics of the Freak S are undeniably futuristic, the new Enamel editions introduce a profound connection to horological tradition. The art of enameling is an ancient craft, prized for its ability to produce colors of unmatched depth and permanence. Ulysse Nardin has long championed this métier d’art through its in-house workshop, Donzé Cadrans, the oldest dedicated enameling atelier in Switzerland. Founded in 1972 by master enameller Francis Donzé, the workshop was acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2011 to preserve its invaluable expertise.
The challenge in creating the Freak S Enamel was extraordinary. Unlike a traditional watch where enamel is applied to a static dial, here it had to be applied to the rotating hour disc—an active, functional component of the movement. This disc is constantly in motion and built to precise tolerances, meaning the enameling process had to account for balance, weight, and structural integrity without compromising the flawless visual finish. Any imperfection could disrupt the delicate mechanics of the timepiece.
The process begins with a base disc made of a specific 18-carat white gold alloy, chosen for its thermal stability to withstand the intense heat of the kiln without warping. Before any enamel is applied, the disc is stamped with a signature guilloché pattern, designed to enhance the visual effect of the rotating carousel and its twin oscillators. The raw enamel compounds are then ground by hand into an ultra-fine powder, blended with water to form a paste, and painstakingly applied to the disc.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The disc undergoes multiple firings in a kiln at approximately 800°C. Three to four layers are applied, with each firing intensifying the color and texture of the enamel. This process is fraught with risk; a slight miscalculation in temperature or timing can cause bubbling, cracking, or discoloration, forcing the artisan to start over. After the final firing, the surface is manually polished for over an hour to reveal the full luminosity and depth of the turquoise blue or ruby red. The result is a surface of stunning beauty that is also incredibly durable.
The housing for this mechanical and artistic marvel is a 45 mm case crafted from titanium. This advanced material, common in aerospace engineering, is prized for being about 45% lighter than steel while offering exceptional strength, corrosion resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. The entire case architecture, including the main body, bezel, and locking mechanism, is made from titanium, ensuring a robust yet lightweight construction that enhances comfort and wearability. The case has a total thickness of 16.65 mm and offers a water resistance of 30 meters.
Visually, the watch is a spectacle of motion and color. The spaceship-like movement structure, with its large arrow-shaped minute indicator, glides over the vibrant enamel hour disc below. The twin inclined balance wheels oscillate hypnotically on either side, their intricate silicon structures on full display. The case itself features a modern, multifaceted design that complements the complexity within. The absence of a traditional crown adds to its clean, futuristic profile; time-setting is accomplished by rotating the bezel.
Each version of the Freak S Enamel is paired with a strap designed to match its aesthetic. The ruby red edition is fitted with a white rubber strap featuring a ballistic-textured finish, creating a bold and high-contrast look. The turquoise blue model comes with an anthracite rubber strap with the same texture, offering a more technical and subdued feel. Both straps are secured with a matching titanium folding clasp, completing the cohesive and modern design.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel is a timepiece that perfectly encapsulates the brand's philosophy of bridging the past and future of watchmaking. It combines a revolutionary mechanical concept, born from a desire to defy convention, with one of the most traditional and demanding forms of artistic decoration. This synthesis of high-tech engineering and high artistry results in a watch that is both a technical achievement and a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
These watches are offered as exclusive limited editions, with only 50 pieces of the ruby red version and 50 pieces of the turquoise blue version being produced. This rarity underscores the difficulty and time required to create each piece, particularly the handcrafted enamel discs. The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel is priced at 153,000 CHF, reflecting its complex in-house caliber, advanced materials, and the masterful execution of its decorative elements. It stands as a powerful statement for collectors who appreciate both radical innovation and timeless artistry.
Case: 45 mm titanium case, bezel, and case back with sapphire crystal. 16.65 mm thickness and 30 meters water resistance.
Movement: Manufacture Caliber UN-251 self-winding movement with Grinder automatic winding system. Features a flying carousel, two 20-degree-inclined oversized oscillators with silicon balance wheels, and DIAMonSIL escapements. 72-hour power reserve, frequency of 2 x 2.5 Hz (2 x 18,000 vph), 373 parts, and 33 jewels.
Dial: Rotating hour disc in vibrant turquoise blue or deep ruby red Grand Feu enamel over a hand-crafted Guilloché-Flinqué 18-carat white gold base. The movement serves as the minute indicator.
Strap: The red enamel version comes on a white rubber ballistic strap with a titanium folding buckle. The blue enamel version comes on an anthracite rubber ballistic strap with a titanium folding buckle.
Price: 153,000 CHF
Reference Number: 2513-500LE-6AE-RED/3A (Red); 2513-500LE-3AE-TUR/3A (Blue)
Notes: Limited edition of 50 pieces for each color. The watch is the first in the Freak S collection to feature an enamel dial, a component that is part of the moving carousel. It features the world’s smallest mechanical vertical differential to average the rate of the two oscillators.