Ulysse Nardin has consistently positioned itself at the forefront of material innovation, particularly with its integration of silicon into mechanical watchmaking. The brand's journey with this element, which began as a radical departure from tradition, has now culminated in a piece that treats silicon not just as a functional component, but as an artistic medium. The Blast Free Wheel Marquetry Silicon Green is a complex expression of this dual identity, merging advanced mechanical engineering with a decorative craft that speaks directly to the technological age. It leverages a material known for its role in microchips and semiconductors to create both a high-performance movement and a visually intricate dial, establishing a direct narrative between the worlds of high technology and haute horlogerie.
The legacy of Ulysse Nardin is rooted in the pursuit of chronometric precision, a history that began in 1846 with the production of marine chronometers essential for naval navigation. This foundation in creating robust, reliable instruments built a reputation for performance that would inform the company's direction for over a century. However, the turn of the 21st century marked a pivotal shift. In 2001, the introduction of the Freak collection represented a seismic event in the Swiss watch industry. This watch was the first to incorporate silicon components in its movement, a move that was initially met with skepticism by an industry steeped in traditional metals. Ulysse Nardin’s gamble on silicon's properties—its resistance to magnetism and temperature fluctuations, low friction, and flexibility—proved to be visionary.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
This early adoption gave the manufacture a significant head start. While other brands later invested heavily in developing their own silicon technology, Ulysse Nardin was already refining its processes, even establishing the capability to produce silicon components in-house. This led to further innovations like DiamonSil, a proprietary technology where silicon parts are coated with a layer of synthetic diamond to enhance their durability. This commitment transformed Ulysse Nardin from an industry outlier into a recognized leader in advanced material science, demonstrating that traditional mechanical watchmaking could not only coexist with modern technology but be significantly enhanced by it. The Blast Free Wheel Marquetry builds on this extensive history, representing a mature and confident application of the material that the brand itself helped to pioneer.
The most immediate and striking feature of this timepiece is its dial, which serves as a canvas for a unique form of artistic expression. It employs the ancient technique of marquetry, a craft that involves assembling small, precisely cut pieces of material to form a larger image or pattern. Instead of traditional wood or shell, Ulysse Nardin has used 103 individual slivers of monocrystalline silicon. Each segment, colored a vibrant emerald green, is laser-cut and meticulously arranged by hand to create a cohesive and deeply textured surface. The pattern itself, a geometric arrangement of green and silver-gray lines, is a direct homage to the aesthetic of printed circuit boards, forging a clear visual link to silicon's primary role in the world of electronics.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
This choice of design is far from arbitrary. It poetically connects the two primary uses of silicon in the modern world: its conductive properties in electronics and its kinetic properties in mechanical timekeeping. To create further visual depth and complexity, the silicon slivers are finished with either a matte or a polished surface, causing light to interact with the dial in dynamic ways. The entire composition is not merely a background but an integral part of the watch's mechanical and philosophical identity. It celebrates the material's inherent beauty and technological significance, transforming the watch face into a contemporary mosaic that is both a technical achievement and a work of art.
Beneath this intricate surface lies the in-house Caliber UN-176, a movement designed to be as visually compelling as it is mechanically sophisticated. The "Free Wheel" architecture is central to its design, creating the illusion that its key components are floating in space above the marquetry dial with no visible connection to the mainplate. This open-worked approach exposes the gear train, the barrel, and the power reserve indicator, allowing for an unobstructed view into the heart of the machine. The arrangement appears almost mysterious, inviting close inspection to understand how power is transmitted through the seemingly disconnected elements.
At the six o’clock position, the flying tourbillon rotates, seemingly suspended without an upper bridge to hold it in place. This mechanism, consisting of 45 individual parts, is engineered to counteract the effects of gravity on the regulating organ, thereby improving the watch's timekeeping accuracy. The tourbillon cage, balance spring, anchor, and escapement wheel are all crafted from silicon, leveraging the material's lightness and low-friction properties to enhance the efficiency of this complex regulating system.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
A key technical highlight of the UN-176 movement is the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Escapement, a constant force mechanism that represents a significant advancement in the pursuit of chronometric stability. In a traditional watch movement, the torque delivered by the mainspring is strongest when fully wound and diminishes as it unwinds, which can lead to variations in accuracy. A constant force escapement solves this problem by delivering a consistent impulse of energy to the balance wheel, regardless of the mainspring's power level. Ulysse Nardin's system achieves this by using flexible silicon blades that absorb and store energy before releasing it in precise, controlled bursts. This innovative application of silicon's natural elasticity ensures that the watch maintains a stable rate throughout its power reserve, a feature that earned the technology a GPHG award and places it among the most advanced escapements in modern watchmaking.
The manually-wound Caliber UN-176 is composed of 249 parts and operates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour. This deliberate, lower frequency allows for a more efficient use of energy and contributes to the movement's substantial power reserve of 72 hours. A practical power reserve indicator is subtly integrated into the dial at the four o’clock position, providing a clear reading of the remaining energy. Every aspect of the movement is designed not only for performance but for visual appreciation, turning the functional elements of timekeeping into a primary aesthetic feature.
The entire mechanical assembly is housed within the distinctive Blast case, a platform Ulysse Nardin reserves for its most contemporary and architectural designs. Measuring 45 mm in diameter, the case is crafted from 18k white gold and features a complex geometry of faceted surfaces, sharp angles, and an interplay of satin-brushed and polished finishes. This modern, almost aggressive architecture provides a robust frame for the intricate mechanics and artistry displayed on the dial. Despite its considerable width, the case maintains a wearable profile with a thickness of just 12.4 mm.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
One of the most defining features of the case is its "box-style" sapphire crystal. Rather than sitting flush with the bezel, the crystal is carved from a single block of sapphire and rises high above the case, forming transparent walls. This construction provides an unparalleled, panoramic view of the dial and the floating movement components from the sides as well as the top. It transforms the case into a miniature gallery, encouraging the owner to appreciate the depth and three-dimensionality of the UN-176 movement from every possible angle. The open sapphire case-back further reveals the movement, featuring a matte silicon full plate that continues the watch's central material theme.
The visual contrast between the cool, metallic sheen of the white gold case and the vibrant emerald green of the silicon marquetry dial creates a powerful aesthetic tension. The industrial feel of the case's architecture is balanced by the organic intricacy of the dial pattern, resulting in a design that feels both futuristic and meticulously crafted. It is a watch that makes a bold statement on the wrist, reflecting a confident and forward-thinking approach to luxury watch design.
Completing the watch is a grey rubber strap that integrates seamlessly with the case's sharp lugs. The choice of a modern, functional material like rubber provides a comfortable and secure fit, while its neutral grey color ensures that the focus remains squarely on the case and dial. The strap is fitted with a deployant buckle made from 18k white gold, matching the case material and providing a sense of cohesion to the overall design. This choice of strap underscores the watch's identity as a piece of contemporary horology, designed for wearability despite its mechanical complexity and precious metal construction.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry Silicon Green is a timepiece that synthesizes the brand’s past, present, and future. It honors a legacy of precision while showcasing a mastery of modern materials. The watch is a testament to the idea that innovation is not limited to performance metrics but can also be a source of profound artistic expression. By using silicon as both the engine and the ornamentation, Ulysse Nardin creates a holistic and compelling narrative about the role of technology in the evolution of a traditional craft.
This model is positioned as a highly exclusive offering, produced in a limited edition of just 10 pieces available solely in the United States. This exclusivity is a nod to the country's role as a global center for technological innovation, particularly Silicon Valley. The price is available on demand, a common practice for timepieces of this complexity and rarity, placing it in the upper echelon of haute horlogerie collecting. It is a watch designed not for the mass market, but for a discerning individual who appreciates the convergence of advanced mechanical engineering, artisanal craft, and a bold, contemporary aesthetic.
Case: 18k white gold with satin and polished finishes. Diameter of 45mm, overall height of 12.4mm. Water resistance rated to 30m. Features a box-style sapphire crystal and an open sapphire case-back.
Movement: UN-176 Manufacture Caliber, manual-winding. Features a flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement. Frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 VPH), 72-hour power reserve, 249 components, and 23 jewels. Escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring are in silicon.
Dial: Green silicon marquetry dial with 103 matte and polished slivers. Power reserve indicator located at 4 o’clock. Grey hands are filled with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Grey rubber strap with an 18k white gold deployant buckle.
Price: On Demand
Reference Number: 1760-401LE-8A-GREEN/3A
Notes: A limited edition of 10 pieces available exclusively in the USA. The dial is a handcrafted mosaic of silicon segments inspired by printed circuit boards. It features the brand's proprietary constant force escapement for enhanced timekeeping stability.