Sartory-Billard SB04-E Small Bang

In the landscape of independent watchmaking, certain creations manage to bridge disparate worlds, fusing ancient artistry with the precise mechanics of modern horology. The Sartory-Billard SB04-E “Small Bang” is one such creation, a timepiece that brings a centuries-old Japanese craft to the wrist in a spectacular display of controlled chaos. It’s a watch that doesn’t just tell time but narrates a story of cosmic creation, meticulous craftsmanship, and the beauty found within the unpredictable. This is a collaboration that honors not just the watchmaker, but the artist whose hands shape its very soul.



Sartory-Billard, established in 2015 by the French designer Armand Billard, has carved a niche for itself by focusing on bespoke designs and collaborations with exceptional artisans. The brand’s philosophy is rooted in giving time a unique substance, moving beyond mass production to offer something deeply personal and singular. This approach has led them to explore rare materials and techniques, culminating in projects that feel both contemporary and deeply connected to traditional craft. The SB04-E “Small Bang” is a powerful expression of this journey, representing a bold step into the world of Japanese lacquer arts.



At the heart of each “Small Bang” dial is the work of a master artisan, Tatsuya Todo, who signs his creations with the name Kosetsu. Born in 1954 in Kaga City, Ishikawa Prefecture—a region famous for its lacquerware—Todo is a certified traditional craftsman for Yamanaka lacquerware. His skill is not merely technical but inherited, honed through apprenticeships under legendary masters and recognized with prestigious awards like the Grand Prize at the Tanko Biennial. His work is a testament to a fragile heritage, one he continues to preserve and transmit while creating artworks of profound intensity.



The dial of the SB04-E is a showcase for a specific and demanding technique known as Raden. This traditional Japanese decorative craft involves inlaying thin layers of mother-of-pearl into lacquer. For the “Small Bang,” this process is pushed into a new, graphic dimension. The journey from raw shell to finished dial is one of immense patience and precision. Each piece of mother-of-pearl must be sliced into hair-thin layers, cut by hand into specific shapes, and then painstakingly embedded into the lacquer base using tweezers. The process is unforgiving; a single slip can undo hours of meticulous labor.



Visually, the effect is stunning and dynamic. From the central point where the hands are mounted, impossibly thin strips of iridescent mother-of-pearl radiate outwards in a graphic burst. This is the "Small Bang" itself—a frozen explosion of light and color that feels both chaotic and perfectly structured. The arrangement ensures that as light hits the dial from different angles, the colors shift and shimmer, creating a living canvas on the wrist. Each dial is, by its very nature, a unique piece, as the precise pattern of the explosion can never be replicated.



Adding another layer of depth to the design, tiny round particles of mother-of-pearl are suspended in the lacquer beneath the floating sapphire minutes ring that encircles the dial. These particles appear like celestial bodies or cosmic debris thrown from the central explosion, caught in orbit around the main event. This detail enhances the theme of a cosmic event, making the dial feel less like a flat surface and more like a three-dimensional diorama capturing a fragment of creation.



The “Small Bang” is offered in two distinct colorways, each capturing a different facet of this cosmic theme. The Purple Blue edition presents a dial that sinks into the depths of a night sky. Shades of deep violet, indigo, and subtle blue flicker across its surface, suggesting a distant nebula or the quiet, mysterious beauty of space. The radiating lines of mother-of-pearl catch the light with a cool, ethereal glow. Paired with a dark blue rubber strap, this version carries a more contemplative and sophisticated character.



In stark contrast, the Green edition is a burst of vibrant energy. The mother-of-pearl inlays radiate with tones of brilliant emerald, turquoise, and lime green. The effect is less cosmic and more terrestrial, evoking the explosive life of spring or the phosphorescent glow of deep-sea life. This version is luminous and alive, a powerful statement piece that immediately draws the eye. It comes fitted on a black rubber strap, which serves to frame and amplify the dial's intense coloration.



The case of the SB04-E is crafted from stainless steel and serves as the perfect vessel for the artistic dial. Its design is architectural and modern, with a thoughtful interplay of brushed and polished surfaces that catch the light and emphasize its lines without distracting from the main event. The surfaces are expertly finished, with a crisp transition between the polished bezel and the finely brushed sides of the case and lugs, giving it a premium feel.



Measuring 39.5 mm in diameter, the case is sized for contemporary tastes while remaining incredibly wearable. The brand placed a strong emphasis on ergonomics, designing the case to hug the wrist and feel like a natural extension of the wearer. Its profile is slim yet robust, allowing it to disappear comfortably under a cuff or be worn confidently in more active situations. This focus on comfort ensures that the watch is not just a piece of art to be admired, but a practical object for daily wear.



Despite its artistic dial, the SB04-E is built with utility in mind. The case is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters, providing ample protection for daily activities, including swimming. This level of robustness adds a layer of practicality that is often missing in watches that lean so heavily into artistic expression, making the “Small Bang” a surprisingly versatile companion for any situation.



To ensure clear time-telling against the intricate dial, the watch is fitted with diamond-cut hands and applied indexes. Both the hands and the markers are treated with luminous material, ensuring excellent readability in low-light conditions. The hands are sharp and faceted, catching the light in a way that makes them stand out against the iridescent background, while the indexes are subtle enough not to detract from the Raden artistry.



Driving the SB04-E is a high-quality Swiss-made automatic movement from the respected manufacturer La Joux-Perret. This choice of caliber underscores Sartory-Billard's commitment to mechanical integrity. The movement provides a hefty 68-hour power reserve, meaning the watch can be taken off for a long weekend and will still be running when picked up again on Monday. This is a significant upgrade over the standard 40-42 hour power reserves found in many other watches.



Flipping the watch over reveals an exhibition caseback, offering a view of the La Joux-Perret movement. The rotor is customized with the Sartory-Billard logo, and the bridges are finished with a clean, industrial aesthetic that complements the modern design of the case. It’s a reliable and well-regarded workhorse, ensuring that the performance of the watch is just as impressive as its appearance.



Versatility is a key aspect of the SB04-E’s design, and this is most evident in its strap and bracelet options. In addition to the color-matched rubber strap that each version comes with, every watch is also delivered with a complimentary stainless-steel bracelet. This bracelet features alternating brushed and polished links that echo the finishing of the case, creating a fully integrated and cohesive look.



Furthermore, both the straps and the bracelet are equipped with quick-release spring bars. This ingenious system allows the owner to swap between the sporty rubber strap and the more substantial steel bracelet in seconds, without the need for any tools. This small but significant feature transforms the watch, allowing it to adapt instantly from a casual, comfortable weekend piece to a more refined and formal accessory.



The “Small Bang” is more than the sum of its parts; it is a wearable piece of philosophy. In the world of horology, a discipline governed by the relentless pursuit of order, precision, and perfect repetition, this watch dares to celebrate chaos. It embraces the idea of a “controlled mess,” finding a unique form of perfection in the random, explosive pattern of the Raden. It’s a reminder that beauty can be found in the unpredictable and the unrepeatable.



This timepiece is a profound statement about the value of human touch in an increasingly automated world. The artistry of Tatsuya Todo cannot be replicated by a machine. It is the result of decades of mastery, of a deep, intuitive understanding of a natural material. Each dial is a direct connection to that tradition and to the hands that shaped it, making every watch in this limited series a truly personal and singular object.



The material itself, mother-of-pearl, is transformed through this process. What begins as a raw shell becomes a canvas for light itself. The natural iridescence of the material is revealed through the Raden process, creating shifting tones of green, violet, and blue that no paint or industrial coating could ever hope to imitate. It is an authentic craft, requiring time, patience, and the irreplaceable touch of a master.



The Sartory-Billard SB04-E “Small Bang” is being released as a limited edition exclusively for the retailer Martin Pulli. This exclusivity adds to the watch’s desirability, ensuring it will remain a rare sight. The series is limited to just 10 pieces per color, making a total of only 20 examples worldwide. This extreme scarcity guarantees that owners will be part of a very small circle of collectors. The price is set at €9,950, which translates to approximately $11,700 USD, reflecting the masterful artistry of the dial and the high-quality Swiss mechanics within.



Case: Stainless steel, 39.5 mm diameter. Alternating polished and brushed surfaces. Water resistance of 100 meters.

Movement: Swiss-made La Joux-Perret automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve.

Dial: Japanese Raden crafted by Tatsuya Todo. Available in green or purple-blue shades with radiating mother-of-pearl strips.

Strap: Includes both a rubber strap (black or dark blue depending on dial) and a stainless-steel bracelet. Both options feature quick-release pins.

Price: €9,950 / USD $11,700

Notes: A limited edition of 10 pieces per color, created exclusively for Martin Pulli. Each Raden dial is a unique, handmade piece of art, ensuring no two watches are identical.