For two decades, Richard Mille has approached the concept of women's watchmaking with a philosophy that refuses to compromise. Rather than simply shrinking men’s models or adding a few token diamonds to a quartz movement, the brand has consistently forged a path where extreme technical prowess meets avant-garde aesthetics. The latest additions to the Richard Mille Ladies Collection—specifically the evolutions of the RM 037 and RM 07-01—stand as a testament to this ethos. These timepieces are not merely accessories; they are architectural feats that celebrate strength, mechanical complexity, and a distinct visual language that is immediately engaging to the eye and the mind. The brand has cultivated a universe where the boundaries between high jewelry and high performance are not just blurred but completely dismantled.
The visual impact of these new releases is immediate and profound. A collector looking at these pieces encounters a silhouette that is unmistakably Richard Mille: the iconic tonneau shape, curved to fit the wrist with an ergonomic precision that defies the rigidity of the materials used. The cases are not static shells but dynamic frames that hold a three-dimensional world of gears, bridges, and skeletonized plates. There is a sense of depth here that draws the viewer in; the eye travels past the bezel, through the sapphire crystal, and into the heart of the machine. The dial is never a flat surface but a series of layers, revealing the pulsating balance wheel and the brushed titanium surfaces that give the watch its industrial yet refined character.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
One of the most striking executions in this new lineup involves the masterful use of Carbon TPT, a material that has become a signature for the brand. Traditionally associated with the high-impact worlds of motorsport and aerospace, this composite material is layered and heat-treated to create a unique, wood-grain-like appearance that ensures no two cases are ever identical. In the new Intergalactic collection, this matte, high-tech darkness becomes a canvas for a scattering of diamonds. The visual effect is akin to a night sky viewed from a high-altitude observatory. The diamonds are not merely placed on top; they are integrated into the carbon structure, creating a contrast between the light-absorbing composite and the light-refracting stones that is both jarring and harmonious.
The technical challenge of setting gemstones into Carbon TPT cannot be overstated. Unlike gold, which is malleable and can be pushed over the stone to secure it, carbon is rigid and brittle. To achieve the "Starry Night" effect seen in the RM 07-01, the brand had to develop specialized CNC machines equipped with diamond-tipped tools to precisely machine the cavities. Gold prongs are then hand-polished and driven into the material to hold the diamonds in place. The result is a constellation of 181 diamonds of varying sizes that appear to float within the case material itself. This juxtaposition of the ultra-hard, industrial carbon with the delicate brilliance of diamonds creates a visual tension that is central to the watch's appeal. It is a look that suggests a fusion of the raw and the refined, a hallmark of modern luxury that moves away from traditional polish toward something more textured and complex.
Moving to the RM 037, the collection offers a study in contrasts, particularly in its red gold iterations. Here, the warmth of the precious metal softens the industrial architecture of the movement. In the snow-set versions, the metal is almost entirely obscured by a pavement of diamonds in varying diameters, set so closely together that the gold structure beneath is barely visible. This "snow setting" technique mimics the random, glistening surface of fresh snowfall, providing a brilliant counterpoint to the technical layout of the dial. The center of the dial often features a semi-precious stone—such as jasper or onyx—framed by the skeletonized movement, grounding the ethereal sparkle of the diamonds with a solid, earthy element.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
Mechanically, the RM 037 is a powerhouse. It is driven by the CRMA1 calibre, a skeletonized automatic-winding in-house movement that showcases the brand’s obsession with functionality. The baseplate and bridges are crafted from grade 5 titanium, microblasted and treated with electroplasma to ensure rigidity and surface flatness. This is critical for the gear train's efficiency. A standout feature of this model is the function selector, a mechanism that simplifies the interaction between the wearer and the watch. Instead of pulling out the crown—which can be a delicate operation—the user simply presses a pusher at the 4 o'clock position to toggle between Winding (W), Neutral (N), and Hand-setting (H) modes. A small aperture on the dial indicates the current mode, a feature reminiscent of a car’s gearbox.
The date display on the RM 037 is equally sophisticated. It features an oversize date mechanism that sits horizontally at the 12 o'clock position. The date is semi-instantaneous, snapping into place with a satisfying precision that speaks to the quality of the underlying engineering. The discs are skeletonized, floating over a white field to ensure legibility without blocking the view of the movement below. This attention to detail extends to the crown itself. The patented stem-crown construction separates the crown from the movement interior; it is not directly connected to the heart of the watch in the traditional sense, which protects the movement from external shocks or accidental mishandling. The crown is secured with an O-ring seal and an Alcryn collar, ensuring water resistance and durability.
The RM 07-01 represents a slightly smaller, more condensed expression of this mechanical artistry, yet it sacrifices nothing in terms of complexity. At its heart beats the CRMA2 calibre, a skeletonized automatic movement designed specifically for the proportions of this case. Like its larger sibling, it utilizes grade 5 titanium for the baseplate and bridges, ensuring the watch remains incredibly lightweight despite its robust appearance. The movement features a free-sprung balance with variable inertia, a system that improves shock resistance and chronometric results over time. By eliminating the traditional regulator index and using four small adjustable weights directly on the balance, the watchmakers can adjust the rate with extreme precision.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
A defining feature of the RM 07-01’s movement is the variable-geometry rotor. This innovative system allows the watch’s winding efficiency to be tailored to the wearer’s lifestyle. The rotor features two weights made of heavy metal, which can be slid into different positions and fixed with spline screws. If the wearer is highly active, the weights are moved to the outside, increasing inertia and slowing down the winding speed to prevent overwinding. Conversely, for a user with a more sedentary lifestyle, the weights are adjusted to speed up the winding process. This level of customization is rare in ladies' watches, which often rely on standard, off-the-shelf movements. It demonstrates a respect for the female collector as someone who appreciates mechanical adaptability.
Visually, the RM 07-01 offers a diverse range of personalities, from the stealthy allure of the Intergalactic models to the overt opulence of the white gold baguette-set versions. In the latter, the case is set with rectangular baguette-cut diamonds, creating a "hall of mirrors" effect that emphasizes the architectural lines of the tonneau shape. The geometric rigidity of the baguette cuts complements the anthracite finishes of the movement, creating a tone-on-tone aesthetic that is modern and sharp. There is no attempt to soften the look with floral motifs or romantic flourishes; the beauty lies in the precision of the lines and the quality of the finishing.
The integration of the bracelet is another area where Richard Mille has pushed the envelope. The collection introduces an open-link gourmette bracelet that reimagines the classic curb chain. Available in gold and snow-set diamond variations, this bracelet is not just a strap but an extension of the case’s geometry. The links are bead-blasted, satin-finished, and polished to catch the light from every angle. For the Carbon TPT models, the brand offers a bracelet made entirely of the same material—a feat of engineering that requires each link to be machined from the composite, ensuring the entire watch weighs a mere fraction of what a gold equivalent would. This focus on ergonomics ensures that despite their bold size, the watches sit comfortably on the wrist, balancing weight and volume perfectly.
The interplay of materials continues with the use of ceramics in the collection. Models featuring ATZ white ceramic or TZP black ceramic bezels offer extreme scratch resistance and a distinct tactile experience. The matte finish of the ceramic contrasts beautifully with the polished gold of the caseband, creating a sandwiched construction that highlights the technical nature of the watch. In gem-set ceramic models, the brand employs a technique where red gold prongs are individually manufactured and polished to hold the diamonds, as the ceramic itself cannot be traditionally bead-set. This microscopic attention to detail—where even the setting prongs are engineered components—highlights the "no compromise" approach.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
The dial composition of these watches deserves close inspection. In many models, the center of the dial is a vertical oval or tonneau shape adorned with diamonds or pavé setting, flanked by the dark, recessed tracks of the minute markers. This creates a "watch within a watch" visual effect, drawing the eye to the hands while the periphery reveals the mechanical underpinnings. The hands themselves are often skeletonized and tipped with luminescent material, ensuring that legibility is maintained despite the complex background. The use of sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides eliminates glare, allowing the viewer to inspect the finishing of the bridges and the anglage of the components without obstruction.
The philosophy behind these watches is best described as "bold elegance." It is a rejection of the dainty and the fragile. A Richard Mille woman is envisioned as someone who lives a dynamic life, and her watch is built to keep pace. The shock protection systems, the rigid titanium baseplates, and the secure crown construction are all derived from the brand’s experience in creating watches for athletes and racing drivers. Yet, this ruggedness is clothed in materials of undeniable luxury. It is this duality—the tank-like construction disguised in diamonds and gold—that makes the collection unique in the market.
Every surface of these watches, from the spline screws in the bezel to the oscillating weight of the rotor, is finished to the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking. The anglage is hand-polished, the sinks are circular-grained, and the surfaces are satin-brushed or microblasted. Even the parts of the watch that are hidden from view receive this level of attention. This dedication to craft is what justifies the standing of these pieces in the horological hierarchy. They are not mass-produced luxury items but micro-engineered artifacts produced in limited quantities.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
For the collector, owning one of these pieces is an entry into a very specific club of horological appreciation. It signifies an understanding that a ladies' watch can be just as technically serious as a grand complication intended for men. The visual cues—the exposed screws, the layered carbon, the depth of the dial—serve as a secret handshake among enthusiasts who recognize the distinct design language of the Jura-based manufacture.
When considering the acquisition of a timepiece from the Richard Mille Ladies Collection, one must be prepared for a bracket of exclusivity that matches the engineering on display. Prices for these models are strictly on application but generally command figures well into the high six-figure range. Availability is notoriously scarce; these are not watches one can simply walk into a store and purchase off the shelf. They are available exclusively through Richard Mille’s network of flagship boutiques, and high demand often means waiting lists are a reality. This scarcity, driven by the labor-intensive production process of the Carbon TPT cases and the intricate gem-setting, ensures that each piece remains a rare sighting in the wild.
Case: Tonneau-shaped curved case available in Red Gold, White Gold, Carbon TPT®, Gold Carbon TPT®, ATZ White Ceramic, and TZP Black Ceramic. RM 037 Dimensions: 52.20 x 34.40 x 12.50 mm.
Movement: Calibre CRMA1 (RM 037) and Calibre CRMA2 (RM 07-01); skeletonized automatic-winding in-house movements with variable-geometry rotors. Baseplates and bridges crafted from microblasted Grade 5 titanium with electroplasma treatment. Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); Power reserve approx. 50 hours.
Dial: Skeletonized designs featuring diamond pavé, snow setting, or baguette setting. Center stones available in onyx, jasper, mother-of-pearl, or Carbon TPT. RM 037 features semi-instantaneous oversize date and function selector display.
Strap: Available with gold or Carbon TPT® bracelets, including an open link gourmette bracelet (snow-set options available) and a specific bracelet made of Carbon TPT® links. Double deployment buckle.
Reference Number: RM 037, RM 07-01
Notes: The RM 07-01 Starry Night features 181 diamonds set directly into Carbon TPT using gold prongs. The RM 037 includes a function selector push-button (Winding, Neutral, Hand-setting) and a patented stem-crown construction that does not penetrate the movement heart.