Richard Mille has once again expanded its collection, introducing a timepiece that navigates the intersection of athletic design and the traditional form of a circular watch. The RM 33-03 Automatic emerges as a successor to the RM 33-02, carrying forward the brand's commitment to avant-garde materials and complex mechanical engineering. This new model presents a refined yet intricate character, blending the familiar curvature of the brand’s tonneau-shaped cases with the balanced proportions of a round silhouette, creating a new visual and ergonomic experience.
The creation of the RM 33-03 was guided by a philosophy that prioritizes the cohesion of technical performance, wearer comfort, and visual identity. According to Cécile Guenat, Creation and Development Director at Richard Mille, the meticulous care invested in the watch is evident in its final form. It represents a continued evolution for the brand, introducing greater complexity into its round watch family while preserving the distinctive ergonomic qualities that have become a hallmark of its predecessors. The result is a watch that feels both familiar in its brand DNA and refreshingly new in its execution.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
At the core of the RM 33-03 lies the new calibre RMXP3, a skeletonised automatic movement that serves as the watch's mechanical heart. This movement is a showcase of the brand's expertise in creating complex, durable, and aesthetically compelling mechanics. One of the most critical elements enabling the movement's slim profile is its off-centre monobloc micro-rotor. This component is ingeniously designed to maximize winding efficiency without adding unnecessary bulk to the calibre's height.
Crafted from solid platinum, the micro-rotor leverages the material’s high density to achieve an optimal weight-to-volume ratio. This ensures that even small movements of the wearer's wrist are translated into sufficient energy to wind the mainspring. The rotor winds bi-directionally and is mounted on ceramic ball bearings, a modern solution that enhances longevity and performance. This clever engineering allows the entire movement to measure a mere 3.28 mm in thickness, contributing significantly to the watch's slender and wearable profile.
The structural integrity of the RMXP3 calibre is built upon a foundation of Grade 5 titanium, used for both the baseplate and the bridges. This aerospace-grade alloy is chosen for its exceptional combination of low weight and high rigidity. The baseplate undergoes a Titalyt® treatment, an electro-plasma oxidation process that increases the material's surface hardness and resistance to corrosion. The bridges, in contrast, are coated with black PVD, creating a visual distinction and providing another layer of durability.
Achieving perfect surface flatness on these thin, skeletonized components is a significant technical challenge. Thin metal parts are inherently susceptible to warping and vibration during the high-stress machining and finishing stages, as well as under thermal variations. Richard Mille's manufacturing process demands exacting care and expertise to ensure that these components remain perfectly flat, a prerequisite for the flawless operation of the gear train and the overall stability of the movement. This precision engineering ensures the watch maintains its accuracy over time.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
Visually, the calibre is an architecture of light and shadow. The high degree of skeletonization carves out material, leaving a web of meticulously finished bridges and gears. The finishing itself is a testament to traditional watchmaking craft, executed entirely by hand. Surfaces are treated with a combination of sandblasting, micro-blasting, and satin-finishing, while the edges of the components are defined by hand-polished anglages. These techniques are not merely decorative; they are used to accentuate the three-dimensional volumes of the movement, guiding the eye through its intricate layers.
Enhancing the mechanical theatre is a free-sprung balance with variable inertia, operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). This type of regulating organ is a high-point of modern watchmaking, offering superior stability and shock resistance compared to traditional regulated balances. Instead of a regulator index, timekeeping adjustments are made by tuning four small weights directly on the balance wheel. This method provides more precise and repeatable regulation, contributing to the watch's long-term accuracy. This intricate assembly regulates the flow of energy from the mainspring barrel, which provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
The dial of the RM 33-03 eschews a conventional solid surface, instead opting for a structure that enhances the calibre's depth. The hour numerals, crafted from 18K 5N red gold, are not applied to a traditional dial plate. Instead, they are mounted on two rigid titanium rails that are positioned between the outer flange and the movement itself. This clever mounting system makes the numerals appear to hover above the mechanical landscape below, adding a dramatic sense of three-dimensionality to the watch face.
This intricate dial construction is a technical feat, demanding extreme precision in its creation and assembly due to the thinness of the rails. Beyond its visual impact, this design serves a functional purpose, spanning the width of the calibre and drawing the observer's attention towards the lower half of the watch. Here, one finds the small seconds display, a classic horological complication located at the 6 o'clock position. Its constant, subtle motion enlivens the dial, providing a visual cue that the watch is running.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
Another key feature on the dial is the date display. Positioned at 5 o'clock, the date is shown in a vertical aperture. The date disc, made of black PVD-treated titanium, is visible as it rotates, with the current date suspended over a contrasting white field for enhanced legibility. The date change is semi-instantaneous, providing a crisp transition at the end of each day. This entire arrangement is protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, ensuring clarity from any angle.
The case of the RM 33-03 is offered in two distinct variations, each with its own character. The first is a full Grade 5 titanium model, which presents a cool, technical aesthetic. The second combines a caseband of 18K 5N red gold with a bezel and caseback made from Carbon TPT®. This latter material, composed of multiple layers of parallel carbon filaments, has a unique damascene pattern and is known for its incredible lightness and strength. Both materials contribute to the watch's modern identity and provide exceptional scratch resistance and comfort.
The design of the tripartite case is a study in fluid dynamics, merging the gentle curve of a tonneau shape with the strict geometry of a circle. The result is a sporty yet refined silhouette that sits comfortably on the wrist. The case measures a contemporary 41.7 mm in diameter but is impressively slim at only 9.7 mm thick. These compact dimensions, combined with the lightweight properties of titanium and Carbon TPT®, make the watch exceptionally wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes.
The construction of the case reflects the brand's holistic design approach. No casing ring is used; instead, the movement is mounted directly onto rubber silent blocks (ISO SW) and secured with four Grade 5 titanium screws. This method provides enhanced shock protection for the calibre. The three parts of the case are held together by 14 signature spline screws, also in Grade 5 titanium, which allow for precise torque control during assembly and ensure the case's structural integrity and water resistance of 30 meters, secured by two nitrile O-ring seals.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
The visual dynamism of the case is further extended by the integrated strap design. The strap emerges from the case following unique lines created by indentations at 6 and 12 o’clock. These vanishing lines create a sense of continuous flow, making the strap appear as a natural extension of the case itself rather than a separate component. This detail contributes to the overall energy of the watch's design, ensuring a cohesive look from every angle.
The strap is fastened with a folding buckle machined from Grade 5 titanium. This ensures a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist, matching the high-tech materials used in the case and movement. The combination of the lightweight case, ergonomic shape, and integrated strap design results in a watch that is barely noticeable when worn, fulfilling the brand's promise of supreme comfort.
The Carbon TPT® and 5N red gold version offers a striking visual contrast. The deep, matte black of the carbon, with its unique striated surface, provides a modern, stealthy frame. This is warmed by the polished and satin-finished red gold of the caseband, which adds a touch of classic luxury. The red gold numerals on the dial further connect the visual theme, creating a harmonious interplay between high-tech composite and precious metal.
Conversely, the full Grade 5 titanium model projects a more monochromatic and industrial persona. The case features a sophisticated mix of satin and polished finishes, which catch the light in different ways, highlighting the complex curves and angles of its design. This version emphasizes the raw mechanical nature of the watch, with the metallic sheen of the case providing a backdrop for the dark, skeletonized movement and the warm accents of the 5N red gold hands and numerals within.
The finishing of the calibre itself is a universe of detail. The Grade 5 titanium baseplate is wet sandblasted and Titalyt® treated, while the PVD-coated bridges are wet sandblasted with hand-polished upper surfaces. Pivots are burnished, sinks are diamond-polished, and the wheels are rhodium-plated before their teeth are cut to preserve their precise geometry and performance. This exhaustive attention to detail at every stage of production is fundamental to the
Richard Mille philosophy.
Courtesy of Richard Mille
The RM 33-03 Automatic is a masterful exercise in contemporary watchmaking, skillfully combining advanced technology, cutting-edge materials, and traditional craftsmanship. It successfully carves out its own identity within the Richard Mille collection, offering a sophisticated round-cased alternative that sacrifices none of the brand's renowned technical prowess or visual impact. It stands as a testament to the idea that complex mechanics and ergonomic design can coexist in a single, compelling package.
As is customary for timepieces of this caliber and complexity, the Richard Mille RM 33-03 Automatic is an exclusive offering. Both the full Grade 5 titanium version and the Carbon TPT® with 5N red gold model are available with pricing provided upon demand. This approach underscores the rarefied nature of the watch and its position at the apex of modern horology, intended for discerning collectors who appreciate both its intricate engineering and its forward-thinking design.
Case: Grade 5 titanium or Carbon TPT® with a 5N red gold caseband; Dimensions 41.70 x 9.70 x 49.50 mm; Tripartite case with 14 Grade 5 titanium spline screws; Sapphire crystal front (1.30 mm) and back (1.00 mm) with anti-reflective coating; Water resistant to 30 meters.
Movement: Calibre RMXP3 skeletonised automatic-winding; 33.00 mm diameter, 3.28 mm thickness; Off-centre monobloc micro-rotor in solid platinum; Power reserve of approximately 40 hours; Frequency of 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 29 jewels; Free-sprung balance with variable inertia.
Dial: 18K 5N red gold numerals mounted on two fixed, black PVD-coated titanium rails, hovering above the movement; Small seconds at 6 o'clock; Semi-instantaneous date display in a vertical aperture at 5 o’clock.
Strap: Integrated strap design following case lines; Grade 5 titanium folding buckle.
Price: Price on Demand.
Reference Number: RM 33-03
Notes: The calibre RMXP3 features a Grade 5 titanium baseplate with Titalyt® treatment and PVD-coated bridges. The movement is mounted on rubber silent blocks, forgoing a traditional casing ring for improved shock protection.