Ressence TYPE 9 IKE

Antwerp-based independent watchmaker Ressence has released the TYPE 9 IKE, a limited-edition collaboration executed with Japanese lacquer artist Terumasa Ikeda. The release consists of eight pieces and utilizes the brand’s existing TYPE 9 architecture as a foundation for specialized dial finishing. Ikeda applies traditional Japanese raden, a mother-of-pearl inlay technique, and urushi, a black lacquer, to the rotating components of the Ressence Orbital Convex System. This collaboration represents a specific technical challenge within the context of watchmaking production, as the mechanical display requires the dial segments to be heavily convex rather than flat. Standard raden applications rely on flat surfaces, necessitating a modified production process to accommodate the specific curvature of the titanium dial components without fracturing the brittle shell material. The collaboration aligns with a standard operating model in independent horology, where brands partner with external artisans to apply novel aesthetic treatments to established mechanical architectures, thereby offering highly limited variations without the research and development costs associated with engineering a new caliber.

Ikeda operates from a workspace in Kanazawa, Japan, where he combines digital preparation tools with traditional manual application methods. The production of the TYPE 9 IKE dial begins with digital mapping, utilizing laser-cutting technology to shape thin pieces of abalone shell into precise, geometric slivers that mimic data streams or digital interfaces. The contrast between this modern digital preparation and the manual, centuries-old application of urushi lacquer is a central element of the watch's physical construction. Once the shell pieces are shaped, they are manually set into layers of black lacquer, which acts as both an adhesive and a high-contrast background that isolates the reflectivity of the shell. Because the watch utilizes an orbital display system, the dial is not static; the relationship between the geometric lines constantly changes as the minute and hour discs orbit one another across the dial surface. This mechanical reality requires a dial layout that maintains visual coherence across 360 degrees of varying physical configurations, differing fundamentally from the design constraints of a standard, static watch dial.

The Case and Dial

The case architecture measures 39mm in diameter and 11mm in total thickness, machined entirely from Grade 5 titanium. The use of Grade 5 titanium, an alloy consisting of titanium, aluminum, and vanadium, is a specific material choice that allows for a high-polish finish, whereas commercially pure Grade 2 titanium typically yields a duller, matte appearance. Following the polishing process, the titanium components are treated with a black Diamond-Like Carbon coating, which deposits a highly scratch-resistant, dark surface layer via physical vapor deposition. This coating provides a high-vickers surface hardness to mitigate scratches on the dark finish and visually integrates the case with the black urushi dial. The absence of a traditional winding crown is a core design parameter for the brand, resulting in a perfectly symmetrical case profile that eliminates the potential for the crown to dig into the wearer's wrist. The assembly is capped with a heavily domed sapphire crystal, which features an anti-reflective coating applied exclusively to the interior surface to prevent the highly reflective mother-of-pearl dial elements from causing excessive visual glare under direct lighting. The case provides a water resistance rating of 1-atm, indicating it is engineered strictly for splash resistance and is not constructed to withstand submersion, a common limitation for watches utilizing complex caseback winding systems.

The dial elements consist of Grade 5 titanium bases coated with Japanese Urushi lacquer to provide a light-absorbing background. The raden process visible on the rotating discs involves abalone shell cut into distinct arcs, hash marks, and concentric tracks that display intense green, pink, and blue wavelengths depending on the angle of incident light. Because mother-of-pearl is naturally flat and highly brittle, applying it to the domed surfaces of the internal discs required a specific structural modification during production. The ultra-thin shell pieces were soaked in water to increase their flexibility, then gradually bent over curved rubber templates to match the exact physical radius of the titanium dial components. Once the required curvature was achieved, the pieces were set into the lacquer by hand. The arrangement of these pieces creates a highly legible, contrasting track that maps out the primary minute display on the main dial and the hours on the subsidiary rotating disc.

The Movement

The core mechanical function of the watch is driven by the patented ROCS 9 module, an acronym for the Ressence Orbital Convex System. This display module is driven directly by the minute axle of a customized ETA 2892/2 base caliber acting as the tractor movement. The mechanical theory of the system replaces standard central hands with a series of solid titanium discs; the module intercepts the rotational energy at the minute wheel and utilizes a sequence of 20 internal gears to drive the entire dial surface as the primary minute indicator. Simultaneously, this gear train calculates the necessary ratios to drive the smaller subsidiary disc, displaying the hours as it orbits the central axis. Because the dial components are solid titanium discs rather than thin, lightweight brass hands, the system requires significant torque and generates substantial lateral friction. To manage this load, Ressence incorporates four ball bearings into the module to support the weight of the rotating discs, replacing traditional jeweled pivots which are insufficient for managing the mass of the orbital display. The ETA base caliber provides a reliable power source, operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and supplying a 36-hour power reserve.

The physical interaction with the movement is entirely dictated by the crownless case architecture, which transfers all winding and setting functions to the rear of the watch. The user engages the mechanism by turning the caseback in a limited 12-degree arc to manually wind the mainspring, or by rotating it continuously in either direction to set the time via the internal gear train. This system relies on a planetary gear set to connect the external rotation of the caseback directly to the keyless works of the sealed base caliber. The caseback itself features deep radial fluting cut into the titanium, providing the necessary physical grip for the fingers to operate the winding mechanism against the resistance of the mainspring. The 36-hour power reserve is relatively short compared to current industry baselines, which is a direct mechanical consequence of the energy demanded by the heavy module; the mainspring must push a substantially heavier load than a standard handset, draining the barrel tension at an accelerated rate. The rear of the case also bears the engraved physical signature of Terumasa Ikeda alongside the individual limited-edition numbering of the eight produced units.

The Strap

The TYPE 9 IKE is delivered on a black, shiny horse leather strap that aligns with the monochromatic foundation of the case and dial. Horse leather is selected for its high density and tight grain structure, offering a smooth, uniform surface texture that lacks the visible pores often found in standard calfskin options. The strap measures 20mm at the case lugs and tapers down to 18mm at the buckle. This dimensional taper reduces the physical profile and bulk of the leather on the underside of the wrist, a standard specification for watches designed to fit easily under a shirt cuff. The interior of the strap is constructed with a moisture-repellent leather lining, designed to mitigate the absorption of sweat and natural oils, thereby extending the structural integrity and lifespan of the primary strap material. The closure mechanism is a standard ardillon buckle, milled from titanium and treated with the identical black DLC finish as the primary case components to maintain strict visual continuity.

Pricing and Availability

The Ressence TYPE 9 IKE is limited to a total worldwide production run of exactly eight pieces. The retail price is set at $41,500.00. This pricing structure is a direct reflection of the proprietary mechanical engineering required for the orbital display module, combined with the high rate of specialized manual labor necessary for the urushi and curved raden dial applications. The watch is distributed directly through the brand and its authorized dealer network, though the extreme low-volume production number dictates highly restricted commercial availability.

Technical Specifications

Case: 39mm diameter x 11mm thickness, Grade 5 Titanium, polished and black DLC coated, domed sapphire crystal with interior AR coating, 1-atm splash resistance, crownless design with caseback winding/setting

Movement: Customized ETA 2892/2 base caliber driving the patented ROCS 9 (Ressence Orbital Convex System) module, self-winding, 36-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 31 jewels, 20 module gears, 4 ball bearings

Dial: Grade 5 Titanium convex discs with black DLC coating, finished with hand-applied Japanese Urushi lacquer and Raden (mother-of-pearl) geometric inlay

Strap: 20/18mm tapered black shiny horse leather, moisture-repellent inner lining, black DLC coated titanium ardillon buckle

Price: $41,500.00

Reference Number: TYPE 9 IKE

Notes: Limited edition of 8 pieces worldwide, produced in collaboration with Japanese lacquer artist Terumasa Ikeda, caseback engraved with artist signature