An intriguing dialogue has taken shape in the world of independent watchmaking, one that speaks in the hushed tones of fine tailoring and the clean, futuristic language of mechanical innovation. This conversation is materialized in the Ressence TYPE 9 ARM 'Scattering Sun,' a collaborative timepiece born from the meeting of two distinct but philosophically aligned minds: Benoît Mintiens of Ressence and Mark Cho of The Armoury. It represents a fascinating fusion, where the avant-garde mechanics of a 21st-century watchmaker are thoughtfully dressed in the materials, textures, and sensibilities of bespoke menswear. The result is a watch that challenges conventions while simultaneously respecting classical proportions and feel.
Ressence, founded in 2010 by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, has consistently positioned itself as a forward-thinking force in a typically tradition-bound industry. The brand's core identity is built upon a revolutionary concept: the Ressence Orbital Convex System, or ROCS. This patented technology discards traditional watch hands in favor of a series of rotating discs that are coplanar, creating an ever-changing dial that displays time in a uniquely intuitive and graphical way. This approach, which Mintiens calls "Simplication," is about stripping away the superfluous to achieve a clearer, more ergonomic, and fundamentally more human way of interacting with a mechanical object.
Courtesy of Ressence
The brand's design ethos extends to the very form of its watches. Ressence timepieces are characterized by their smooth, pebble-like cases, entirely devoid of a traditional crown. Winding and setting are managed through the rotating caseback, an ingenious solution that preserves the watch's seamless, organic silhouette. This relentless focus on user experience and visual purity has earned Ressence a dedicated following among those who appreciate design that is both intelligent and aesthetically radical. Their watches are not reinterpretations of the past; they are propositions for the future of horology.
On the other side of this collaboration stands The Armoury, a name that has become a benchmark for classic menswear in the modern era. Co-founded by Mark Cho and Alan See in 2010, The Armoury operates on a principle of deep respect for craftsmanship and personal style. With boutiques in Hong Kong and New York, it serves as a curator of the world's finest artisanal goods, from Japanese tailoring to Italian shoemaking. The Armoury's philosophy is not about chasing fleeting trends but about helping men build a lasting wardrobe that reflects their own identity, championing products made with skill, integrity, and a distinct point of view.
Mark Cho, an entrepreneur with a well-documented passion for both sartorial arts and horology, brings a specific perspective to this project. His deep understanding of fabric, proportion, and texture—the subtle details that separate good clothing from great clothing—informs The Armoury's approach. As he notes, "As you experience more and develop your eye, you start to grasp the nuances of what separates the ordinary from the great." It is this discerning eye, honed over years of working with master craftspeople, that provided the unique input for the TYPE 9 ARM. The goal was to create a watch that could, in Cho's words, "live with a suit," embodying a sense of restraint and tactile richness.
Courtesy of Ressence
The genesis of the TYPE 9 ARM 'Scattering Sun' lies in Cho's long-standing admiration for Ressence's design language. He recognized the novelty and ingenuity in their construction and complications but envisioned a version that aligned more closely with the world of tailoring. The collaboration became a push and pull of ideas, a blending of two expert perspectives. Benoît Mintiens acknowledges this dynamic, stating, "The Armoury pushed us to explore proportions and details we wouldn’t have considered alone. The result is one of our most unexpected watches.” This tension between futuristic mechanics and classical aesthetics is the very heart of the timepiece.
At its core, the watch is built upon the Ressence TYPE 9 platform, the brand's most compact model to date. The decision to use this foundation was deliberate, aiming for a piece that prioritizes comfort and wearability. The case measures a modest 39mm in diameter and is crafted from polished and satinated Grade 5 titanium. This choice of material is crucial, as it results in an astonishingly light watch, weighing a mere 39 grams. The effect is a timepiece that almost disappears on the wrist in terms of physical presence, allowing its unique design to stand out for its visual and intellectual merits rather than its heft.
Perhaps the most immediately striking feature, and the clearest nod to traditional watchmaking, is the fluted bezel. Also machined from polished Grade 5 titanium, the fluting adds a layer of intricate texture and light play that is not typically found in the minimalist Ressence catalog. This decorative element, however, is not merely for show. In true Ressence fashion, it serves a function, acting as the minute track for the display. The bezel’s classic design cue is thus integrated directly into the watch's modern time-telling system, creating a perfect metaphor for the collaboration itself.
The dial is where the warmth and sartorial influence of The Armoury become most apparent. Rendered in a captivating warm salmon color, the dial is made from Grade 5 titanium with a PVD coating and has been sandblasted to create a subtle, matte texture. This finish prevents glare and gives the dial a soft, fabric-like appearance, a stark contrast to the glossy, technical look of many contemporary watches. The color itself is a classic in horological design, but the sandblasted finish provides a modern, tactile interpretation that feels fresh and inviting.
Courtesy of Ressence
The display operates on the patented ROCS 9 module, driven by the minute axle of a heavily customized and reinforced ETA 2892/2 base caliber. The entire dial, which sits on a jewel ball bearing, revolves once every 60 minutes. Within this main disc, an eccentric satellite displaying the hours rotates at its own pace. The engraved indications for the hours and minutes are filled with green Grade A Super-LumiNova®, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. The spectacle of the revolving discs is a quiet, constant ballet of mechanics, displaying time as a fluid, ever-shifting pattern rather than a rigid, ticking progression.
The movement powering this display is a testament to Ressence's engineering prowess. The self-winding caliber provides a 36-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Comprised of 31 jewels and 20 gears, the movement is a robust and reliable engine for the complex ROCS module. The absence of a crown is a brand signature. To wind the watch or set the time, the owner simply turns the caseback. A short rotation of about 12 degrees is enough for manual winding, while a fuller rotation engages the time-setting function. This interaction is both intuitive and deeply satisfying, reinforcing the connection between the wearer and the mechanical object.
The case construction maintains the brand’s characteristic pebble-like shape, with a domed sapphire crystal that seamlessly integrates with the case flanks. An anti-reflective coating on the inside of the crystal enhances the clarity of the dial, making the orbiting discs appear almost as if they are projected onto the surface. The watch is rated for 1-atmosphere of splash resistance, befitting its role as a sophisticated daily companion rather than a rugged tool watch. Every element is designed to contribute to a smooth, unified, and ergonomic whole.
Completing the aesthetic package is a carefully chosen strap. The TYPE 9 ARM is fitted with a chocolate brown suede strap, secured by a titanium ardillon buckle. The choice of suede was intentional, selected for its warm tone and pleasingly tactile feel, echoing the textures found in high-quality menswear. The exposed stitching adds a touch of artisanal character, reinforcing the connection to the world of handcrafted garments. The 20mm lug width tapers to 18mm at the buckle, a classic proportion that enhances the watch's comfortable and balanced presence on the wrist.
Courtesy of Ressence
Visually, the watch presents a compelling study in contrasts. The cool, technical sheen of the polished titanium fluting plays against the warm, soft matte texture of the salmon dial. The clean, modern lines of the case are given a traditional touch by the bezel's texture and the dial's color. The revolutionary display system is housed within a case of eminently classical proportions. It is a piece that feels both familiar and entirely new at the same time, a conversation piece that, as Mark Cho notes, "doesn’t shout."
Wearing the TYPE 9 ARM is an experience in subtlety and comfort. Its feather-light weight means it never feels obtrusive, easily sliding under a shirt cuff. Yet, a glance at the wrist reveals a display of captivating complexity and originality. It is a watch designed for the individual who appreciates innovation but does not feel the need to broadcast it loudly, someone whose style is built on a foundation of quality materials, thoughtful design, and a quiet confidence.
The collaboration successfully translates the abstract principles of tailoring—proportion, texture, comfort, and subtle detail—into the language of horology. It is not simply a matter of applying a new color or material; it is a holistic rethinking of how a Ressence watch could be perceived and worn. The result is arguably one of the most versatile pieces the brand has ever produced, equally at home with a tailored suit, a sport coat, or a casual weekend outfit.
The philosophy behind the watch reflects a mature approach to design. It acknowledges that true innovation does not have to exist in a vacuum; it can engage in a dialogue with history and with other disciplines. By incorporating elements inspired by The Armoury's world, Ressence has demonstrated a willingness to explore new aesthetic territories without compromising its core identity. It is a testament to the strength and flexibility of their design language.
Courtesy of Ressence
For the collector, the TYPE 9 ARM 'Scattering Sun' represents a unique intersection of two highly respected independent brands. It is a piece that tells a story of mutual respect and creative exchange. It embodies Mark Cho's keen eye for balance and Benoît Mintiens' visionary approach to mechanics, resulting in a watch that is greater than the sum of its impressive parts. It is a sophisticated instrument for those who find beauty in both the traditions of the past and the possibilities of the future.
This special collaboration is, by its nature, highly exclusive. The Ressence TYPE 9 ARM will be produced in a limited run of just 20 pieces, ensuring its rarity. The watch is priced at $19,000.00 and is available exclusively through The Armoury's boutiques in Hong Kong and New York, as well as online through their website, thearmoury.com. This focused distribution model further underscores the personal nature of the project, offering it directly to the community that understands and appreciates the values both brands represent.
Case: 39mm x 11mm polished/satinated Grade 5 titanium; Polished Grade 5 titanium fluted bezel; Domed sapphire crystal with AR-coating; 1-atm splash resistance; Crownless winding and setting via rotating caseback.
Movement: Patented ROCS 9 (Ressence Orbital Convex System) driven by a customised and reinforced 2892/2 base calibre; Self-winding; 36 hours power reserve; 28,800 VpH; 31 jewels. Functions: Hours, Minutes.
Dial: Sandblasted Grade 5 titanium with salmon color PVD coating; Eccentric satellites rolling on jewel ball-bearings for hours and minutes; Engraved indications filled with green Grade A Super-LumiNova®.
Strap: Chocolate suede strap (20/18mm); Polished Grade 5 titanium ardillon buckle.
Price: $19,000.00
Notes: A limited edition of 20 pieces in collaboration with menswear retailer The Armoury. The watch is exceptionally lightweight, weighing only 39 grams.