Maurice Lacroix has established a distinct position within the Swiss watch industry, largely defined by a willingness to produce high-complication timepieces at price points that defy traditional market categorization. Since the company’s inception in the mid-1970s, it has evolved from a private label producer into a fully integrated manufacture based in Saignelégier. While many brands lean heavily on standard three-hand movements, Maurice Lacroix spent the late 1990s and early 2000s carving out a niche as a specialist in retrograde displays. The release of the Calendar Retrograde in 1999 marked a turning point, signaling that the brand was capable of developing proprietary modules. This historical context is essential to understanding the significance of their latest release, the AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde. This new model does not merely rehash old designs but rather integrates the brand's most famous mechanical signature into its most successful contemporary case architecture, the AIKON.
The concept of a retrograde hand is mechanically fascinating and offers a dynamic alternative to the continuous rotation of standard watch hands. In a traditional display, hands move in a complete 360-degree circle. A retrograde hand, by contrast, travels along a defined arc. Upon reaching the end of its scale—whether that is the 24th hour, the 31st day, or Sunday—the hand instantly snaps back to the starting position to resume its count. This action requires a complex system of racks, snails, and springs to manage the tension and release of energy. The AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde is an ambitious implementation of this technology, featuring not one, but three separate retrograde counters. This creates a dial that is constantly in flux, offering a visual experience that changes significantly depending on the time of day or the day of the month.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
Visually, the watch presents a highly industrial and architectural aesthetic, dominated by shades of grey, silver, and black. The dial is finished in anthracite and features a prominent vertical brushed texture that catches the light in a linear fashion. This dark, metallic backdrop serves as a canvas for the open-worked elements. Maurice Lacroix has chosen to skeletonize specific sections of the dial, cutting away the surface to reveal the rhodium-plated mainplate of the movement beneath. These apertures are not random; they are carefully positioned to frame the mechanical components that drive the indicators, adding a layer of depth and technical sophistication to the face of the watch. The vertical brushing of the dial plate contrasts with the circular brushing found on the retrograde tracks, creating a subtle interplay of finishes that distinguishes the different functional zones.
The layout of the dial is symmetrical yet complex, dividing the information into four distinct quadrants. At the top of the dial, spanning the area between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, sits the first retrograde display. This sector indicates the home time, functioning as a GMT complication. The scale is marked from 0 to 24, allowing the wearer to track a second time zone. The hand for this indicator, like the other retrograde hands, is rendered in a vivid blue. This splash of color is not merely decorative; it serves a vital functional purpose by allowing the eye to quickly differentiate the retrograde indicators from the primary time-telling hands and the skeletonized background. The use of blue against the grey and anthracite tones lends the watch a modern, sporty character that aligns with the broader design language of the AIKON collection.
To the right side of the dial, positioned near the 3 o'clock mark, is the second retrograde display indicating the days of the week. The arc here is tighter, listing the days from Monday through Sunday. As the week progresses, the blue hand climbs the scale, eventually flicking back to Monday at the transition of the week. The integration of a day indicator in this format is somewhat unusual, as many watches relegate this information to a simple window. By displaying it on a track, the watch emphasizes the passage of time in a physical, spatial manner. The mechanical snap-back of the hand at the end of Sunday is a subtle but satisfying event for the wearer, a small interaction that occurs once a week to mark the cycle's renewal.
The third retrograde indicator is located at the bottom of the dial, occupying the 6 o'clock position. This track displays the date, numbered 1 through 31. This is perhaps the most active of the three retrograde functions in terms of daily utility. The scale is expansive, offering clear legibility of the current date. Like its counterparts, it utilizes a blue hand and a silver powder-printed track. The distinct separation of these three functions—home time, day, and date—into their own sectors prevents the dial from becoming cluttered. Despite the amount of information being presented, the use of negative space and the skeletonized apertures keeps the display feeling open and breathable rather than compressed.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
Balancing the three retrograde sectors is a small seconds display located at the 9 o'clock position. Unlike the other three quadrants, this is not a retrograde display but a continuous counter. It features a skeletonized view into the movement, where the escapement or gear train elements are visible. The small seconds hand sweeps around a printed track, providing a constant indicator that the movement is running. This asymmetrical element—one rotating hand against three linear snapping hands—creates a mechanical tension on the dial that highlights the specific engineering prowess involved in the retrograde modules. The small seconds sub-dial mirrors the shape and size of the day indicator opposite it, maintaining the visual equilibrium of the watch face.
The primary time is displayed via central hour and minute hands. These hands are faceted and rhodium-plated, designed to catch light from multiple angles to aid legibility against the complex background. Maurice Lacroix has applied a sandblasted finish to the center line of the hands, flanked by polished edges. This dual-finish technique is a hallmark of high-end finishing, ensuring that the hands do not disappear against the dark dial. They are also lined with white Super-LumiNova, which appears stark white in daylight and provides luminescence in low-light conditions. The hour markers follow a similar design ethos; they are applied indices, rhodium-plated and faceted, hovering above the dial surface to increase the three-dimensional quality of the display.
Encasing this complex display is a 43mm stainless steel case that follows the integrated bracelet sport watch aesthetic that has become a staple of the industry. The case height is 13mm, a necessary dimension to accommodate the automatic movement and the additional height required for the retrograde modules. The finishing on the case is a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The broad, flat surfaces of the case typically feature a brushed finish to diffuse light and hide hairline scratches, while the chamfered edges—the chanfreins—are polished to a high gleam. These polished bevels run along the flanks of the case, highlighting the geometric lines and giving the watch a premium feel. The transition between the brushed and polished sections is sharp, indicating a high quality of machining and case preparation.
A defining feature of the AIKON line is the bezel design, which includes six "claws" or arms that straddle the bezel perimeter. On the AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde, the bezel is crafted from technical ceramic rather than steel. This is a significant functional upgrade. Ceramic is impervious to scratches and does not fade under UV exposure, meaning the most exposed part of the watch—the bezel—will retain its factory-fresh appearance indefinitely. The matte black finish of the ceramic bezel contrasts with the steel case, reinforcing the industrial color palette. The six arms on the bezel are double-width and feature a different finish, adding texture and breaking up the circular profile. This design element is echoed in the crown, which is also screwed down and constructed with ceramic elements, ensuring a unified tactile experience.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
The movement powering this timepiece is the automatic ML291 Manufacture Calibre. This is a proprietary movement, heavily modified to accommodate the triple retrograde architecture. The view through the exhibition caseback reveals the finishing standards applied to the mechanism. The rotor and bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, distinct vertical stripes that catch the light. The mainplate features rhodium plating, which provides corrosion resistance and a bright, silvery shine. The technical specifications of the movement are robust, designed for daily wear. The use of a proprietary caliber for such a specific set of complications is a strong value proposition, as relying on off-the-shelf movements for triple retrograde displays is often impossible due to the unique spatial requirements of the racks and pinions.
The integration of the strap into the case is seamless, utilizing a central pivoting link system. The watch is supplied with a black rubber strap that features a textured central insert. This texture mimics the feel of fabric or cordura but retains the sweat resistance and durability of rubber. The strap also bears a black rubber "M" logo, a subtle branding element molded into the material. Rubber is an appropriate choice for a watch of this size and sporty nature, as it helps to mitigate the weight of the steel case and keeps the watch planted firmly on the wrist. The high-gleam attachments where the strap meets the case add a touch of refinement to what is otherwise a very utilitarian component.
User interaction is enhanced by the inclusion of the ML Easy Change system. This proprietary quick-release mechanism allows the owner to swap the strap without the use of tools. Two small catches located on the underside of the strap, near the case connection, can be compressed to release the spring bars. This feature has become increasingly important to modern consumers who wish to change the look of their watch between sporty and formal contexts. While the watch comes with the rubber strap, the system implies compatibility with other straps in the AIKON ecosystem, offering versatility. The pivoting nature of the connection point also ensures that the strap conforms better to a variety of wrist sizes, avoiding the unsightly "overhang" that can occur with fixed integrated lugs.
The sapphire crystal protecting the dial is treated with a double anti-reflective coating. This is a critical feature for a dark-dialed watch with complex skeletonization. Without effective anti-reflective treatment, a dark dial can act as a mirror, making it difficult to read the time in bright conditions. The coating ensures high light transmittance, allowing the details of the brushed anthracite and the rhodium-plated movement parts to be seen clearly without glare. Additionally, the coating improves the crystal's resistance to saltwater, a specific benefit for those who might take the watch into the ocean, aligning with its 10 ATM water resistance rating.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
Durability is a key focus of the AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde. With a water resistance of 100 meters (10 ATM), the watch is suitable for swimming and snorkeling, making it a true "everyday" luxury sports watch rather than a delicate dress piece. The combination of the stainless steel case, the ceramic bezel, the sapphire crystal, and the rubber strap results in a package that is highly resistant to the elements. The screw-down crown further secures the case against moisture and dust ingress. This robustness suggests that Maurice Lacroix intends for this watch to be worn actively, rather than kept in a safe.
The specific shade of the dial, described as anthracite, serves as a neutral ground that pairs well with almost any attire. Anthracite is a dark grey that can appear almost black in low light but reveals metallic undertones in direct sunlight. The choice of this color, combined with the rhodium accents, creates a monochromatic base that allows the blue retrograde hands to pop. If the dial were multi-colored or overly busy, the three retrograde scales might become overwhelming. By restraining the color palette to greys and silver, with only functional elements in blue, the design remains coherent and legible.
The skeletonization process used on the AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde is essentially a modernist take on a traditional craft. Historically, skeletonization involved intricate engravings and floral motifs. Here, the cuts are geometric and sharp, exposing the industrial nature of the machine. The bridges that are visible are circular brushed and secured with polished screws. These screws are not hidden; they are part of the visual display, emphasizing the mechanical construction of the watch. The layout of the bridges supports the retrograde racks, and a keen eye can trace the path of energy from the movement to the indicators.
The watch represents the culmination of 50 years of brand history, merging the "Masterpiece" line's mechanical ingenuity with the "AIKON" line's distinct design language. The Masterpiece collection was historically where Maurice Lacroix showcased its retrograde prowess, often in more classic, round cases. Bringing this triple retrograde capability into the angular, integrated-bracelet form of the AIKON signals a shift in focus. It suggests that the brand sees the future of high complications not just in dress watches, but in robust, urban sports watches. This fusion creates a product that appeals to both the mechanics-focused enthusiast and the design-focused consumer.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
The clasp system on the rubber strap is designed for security and comfort. It likely utilizes a folding deployment buckle, consistent with the brand's other offerings in this segment, though the specific focus here is on the tactile quality of the rubber and the "M" branding. The strap tapers slightly as it moves away from the case, reducing bulk under the wrist. The textured insert on the strap also serves a practical purpose: it reduces the surface area in contact with the skin, allowing for some airflow and preventing the strap from sticking to the wrist in hot and humid conditions.
Pricing and availability are always the final determinants of a watch's market success. The Maurice Lacroix AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde is priced at $6,900 USD. This price point positions it aggressively within the luxury market. Finding a Swiss-made mechanical chronograph or simple GMT at this price is common, but finding a triple retrograde mechanism with a proprietary manufacture caliber and skeletonized dial is significantly rarer. The use of ceramic for the bezel and the inclusion of the quick-change strap system add further value to the proposition. The watch is available in three color variations: black, white, and the dark blue mentioned in the series, though the focus here has been on the anthracite/black aesthetic. As a celebration of the brand's 50th anniversary, this model acts as a statement piece, demonstrating that high-end complications can be packaged in a modern, durable, and relatively accessible form.
Case: The case is crafted from stainless steel with a mix of brushed and polished finishes, measuring 43mm in diameter and 13mm in height. It features a scratchproof ceramic bezel with the signature six "claws" design and a screwed crown. The front is protected by a sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating, while the open case back also utilizes sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance is rated to 10 ATM.
Movement: Powered by the automatic Manufacture Calibre ML291. The movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève vertical lines and features a rhodium-plated mainplate. It drives three separate retrograde indications for home time (GMT), day, and date, alongside a standard small seconds display.
Dial: The dial is anthracite with a vertical brushed finish and skeletonized apertures revealing the movement plate. It features circular brushed tracks with silver powder printing for the indicators. The retrograde hands and racks are blue, while the primary hour and minute hands are faceted, rhodium-plated, and filled with white Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Fitted with a black rubber strap that includes a textured insert and a black rubber M-logo. It utilizes the patented ML Easy Change system for tool-free removal and attachment. The strap connects to the case via high-gleam attachments.
Price: 6,900.00 USD
Reference Number: AC6068-SSL20-230-2
Notes: This model celebrates the brand's 50th anniversary by integrating their signature retrograde complications into the AIKON collection. It is notable for featuring three distinct retrograde mechanisms (Day, Date, and GMT) on a single dial.