Collaborations in the watch industry often feel like a roll of the dice, a gamble on whether two distinct design philosophies can merge without losing their individual identities. However, when a partnership returns for a third iteration, it ceases to be a gamble and becomes a testament to a shared vision that resonates with collectors. The latest release from Maurice Lacroix, developed in conjunction with the Geneva-based customization house Label Noir, represents exactly this kind of established synergy. This new project centers on the AIKON, a model that has single-handedly redefined Maurice Lacroix’s modern identity, transforming it into a vessel for urban exploration and architectural design. By applying Label Noir’s signature monochromatic aesthetic to the complex architecture of the AIKON Manufacture Skeleton, the two brands have produced a timepiece that feels less like a traditional wristwatch and more like a piece of kinetic sculpture for the wrist.
To truly understand the weight of this release, one must first look at the trajectory of Maurice Lacroix itself. Since its inception in 1975 in the heart of the Swiss Jura mountains, specifically the Franches-Montagnes region, the brand has carved out a niche that balances accessibility with genuine horological innovation. While many Swiss manufactures rest comfortably on centuries of heritage, Maurice Lacroix has often played the role of the challenger, pushing perceived value and engaging with a younger, more style-conscious demographic. This approach crystallized in 2016 with the rebirth of the AIKON collection. Modeled after the Calypso—a diver-style watch that was a staple of the brand’s catalog in the 1990s—the AIKON took the signature six-arm bezel design and sharpened it for the 21st century. It became an immediate hit, offering the integrated bracelet sports watch look that defined the era, but with a distinct personality that avoided being a derivative homage.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
On the other side of this equation sits Label Noir, a company that operates on the cutting edge of personalization. Founded in 2011 by Emmanuel Curti, Label Noir began with a simple but radical premise: style should have no limits. The company made its name by taking iconic, often untouchable timepieces and subjecting them to transformative processes, usually involving high-tech coatings and stark, dark color palettes. Their mastery of Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coatings and their ability to reimagine familiar dials with new textures and colors earned them a cult following. They approach watchmaking not just as engineers, but as creative directors, remixing classic tracks into modern anthems. When Maurice Lacroix first tapped Label Noir for a collaboration in 2020, the result was a sell-out success that proved the mainstream brand could handle the avant-garde edge of the customizer.
The history of their partnership is one of escalating ambition. That first project in 2020 focused on the standard AIKON Automatic, dipping the popular model in a bath of shadow and texture. Its success led to a sequel in 2024, where they turned their attention to the Masterpiece Skeleton, a more traditional line that was given a dark, industrial makeover. Both releases vanished from retailers almost instantly, driven by the limited production runs and the striking visual difference from the standard catalog. This third chapter, the AIKON Skeleton Label Noir, feels like the natural culmination of those previous efforts. It combines the sporty, integrated chassis of the AIKON with the high-horology fascination of a skeletonized manufacture movement, all wrapped in the stealthy, aggressive styling that Label Noir does best.
Visually, the new timepiece is an imposing figure. The case measures a substantial 45mm in diameter, a size that asserts itself confidently and provides ample canvas for the intricate details within. Constructed from stainless steel, the entire case has been treated with a black DLC coating. This isn't merely a cosmetic paint job; DLC is a method of applying a carbon-based coating that shares some of the physical properties of natural diamond, specifically extreme hardness and resistance to scratches. This ensures that the brooding, blacked-out aesthetic remains pristine even after the inevitable knocks of daily wear. The finishing on the case demonstrates a keen attention to detail, alternating between brushed and polished surfaces. This interplay of finishes is crucial in an all-black watch; without it, the geometry of the case would flatten out and lose definition. Here, the light catches the polished edges of the signature bezel claws, separating them from the brushed surfaces of the main case body, maintaining the architectural depth that the AIKON is known for.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
The dial—or rather, the lack thereof—is where the watch truly showcases its mechanical heart. Skeletonization is a divisive art form; done poorly, it can look messy and illegible. Done well, it transforms the movement into the interface. In this instance, the result is a triumph of transparency and contrast. The sapphire dial is treated with a translucent black varnish, creating a smoky, ethereal layer that sits between the observer and the mechanics. It allows for a clear view of the internal components while providing just enough surface to carry the branding and markers. The flange, executed in a piercing turquoise, frames the mechanical display like a neon halo. This specific shade of turquoise is the only break in the monochrome discipline, and its application is surgical. It appears on the hands, the minute track, and the small seconds sub-dial, guiding the eye instantly to the essential information.
The readability of skeleton watches is often their Achilles' heel, with hands getting lost against the busy background of gears and bridges. Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir have circumvented this by using matte black-plated hour and minute hands that are generously filled with turquoise Super-LumiNova. In daylight, the pop of color against the dark movement is stark and immediately legible. In low light, the luminescence ensures the watch remains functional, glowing with a vibrant energy that matches its modern design ethos. The small seconds indicator, located at the 6 o'clock position, continues this theme with a dedicated turquoise hand and matching markers, anchoring the bottom of the visual display with a touch of asymmetry that feels dynamic rather than unbalanced.
Beneath the sapphire layers beats the automatic caliber ML234. This is a manufacture movement, meaning it was developed and assembled by Maurice Lacroix at their facility in Saignelégier. The decision to use a manufacture movement elevates this release from a simple cosmetic special edition to a serious piece of horology. The ML234 has been specifically designed for skeletonization. The mainplate and bridges have been hollowed out to reveal the kinetic energy stored within. The architecture of the movement features five concentric circles, a design choice that radiates outward from the center, drawing the viewer's eye into the depths of the mechanism. You can see the balance wheel oscillating, the barrel slowly rotating as it releases power, and the gear train transmitting energy. The finishing on the movement components is dark and industrial, matching the external case, with sandblasted and satin-brushed surfaces that look thoroughly modern.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
From a technical standpoint, the movement operates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). While many modern movements run at higher frequencies, the slower beat rate of 18,000 vph is a deliberate choice often favored in skeletonized watches. A slower frequency means the balance wheel oscillates at a more leisurely pace, allowing the wearer to distinctly see the "heartbeat" of the watch. It turns the mechanics into a mesmerizing performance. Despite the open architecture, the movement provides a respectable power reserve of 50 hours, ensuring that the watch can be set aside for a couple of days without stopping. The movement contains 34 jewels, which serve as friction-reducing bearings for the moving parts, further hinting at the complexity of the assembly.
The watch is secured to the wrist via an integrated strap system, a hallmark of the AIKON line. The lug-less design means the strap flows directly into the case, which helps the large 45mm diameter wear more comfortably than the dimensions might suggest. The limited edition package includes two distinct strap options, allowing the owner to drastically alter the watch’s character. The first is a grey nubuck leather strap featuring a debossed "M" logo. This option leans into the urban, streetwear vibe, offering a textured, matte look that complements the DLC case. The second option is a vivid turquoise rubber strap embossed with the "Maurice Lacroix" name. When fitted with the rubber strap, the watch transforms into a high-octane sport watch, the bright rubber echoing the accents on the dial and making a loud, confident statement.
Switching between these looks is facilitated by the Easy Strap Exchange system. This mechanism allows the wearer to remove and attach straps with a simple squeeze of two small pushers located on the back of the strap, near the case connection. No tools are required, and the operation takes seconds. This feature acknowledges the reality of modern watch ownership, where versatility is key. A collector might want the subdued grey leather for a dinner in the city, but prefer the sweat-resistant, flashy turquoise rubber for a weekend drive or a casual event. Both straps are fitted with black DLC-plated stainless steel buckles—a pin buckle for the leather and a butterfly deployant for the rubber—ensuring that the hardware matches the case regardless of the choice.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
The case back of the watch is as revealing as the front. It features an exhibition window protected by a black, smoked sapphire crystal. This rear view offers a different perspective on the ML234 caliber, showing the winding rotor and the reverse side of the gear train. The darker tint of the rear crystal adds to the mysterious allure of the piece, maintaining the "Label Noir" theme of secrecy and shadow. Engraved on the case back is the crucial text "LIMITED EDITION of 100," a permanent reminder of the exclusivity of the timepiece. With water resistance rated at 10 ATM (approximately 100 meters), the watch is robust enough for swimming and general aquatic activity, reinforcing its status as a "Sport Luxury" item rather than a delicate dress watch.
The collaboration speaks to a broader trend in the industry where the lines between traditional manufacturing and aftermarket customization are blurring. By officially bringing a customizer like Label Noir into the fold, Maurice Lacroix is validating the desire for personalized, unique aesthetics that deviate from the standard factory norms. It shows a willingness to experiment and a lack of pretension that is refreshing. Managing Director Stéphane Waser has noted the strong relationship between the two teams, highlighting Label Noir’s talent for reimagining the brand’s DNA without destroying it. This mutual respect is evident in the final product; it is unmistakably an AIKON, but it is also unmistakably a Label Noir creation.
When considering the audience for this watch, it is clearly aimed at the collector who already understands the appeal of the integrated bracelet sports watch but wants something that stands out from the sea of steel and blue dials. It appeals to those who appreciate the mechanics of a skeleton movement but find traditional gold or rhodium-plated skeletons too old-fashioned. The black and turquoise colorway is inherently modern, reminiscent of dashboard instrumentation or sci-fi aesthetics. It is a watch that demands attention, not through bling or precious stones, but through aggressive contrast and architectural complexity.
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
The rarity of the piece cannot be overstated. With a global production run of only 100 units, the availability is incredibly scarce relative to the global reach of the Maurice Lacroix brand. Previous collaborations between these two entities have sold out rapidly, driven by the strong visual identity and the accessible price point relative to the level of finishing and exclusivity offered. The fear of missing out is a genuine factor here, as once these 100 pieces are allocated, they will likely only appear on the secondary market, potentially at a premium.
As we look at the pricing and availability, the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Label Noir is positioned at $8,500 USD. While this is a step up from the standard non-skeletonized AIKON models, the price reflects the inclusion of the proprietary manufacture movement, the specialized DLC coating, the skeletonization work, and the limited nature of the collaboration. It sits in a competitive segment of the market but offers a unique value proposition: a Swiss manufacture skeleton watch with a verified limited production run and a highly distinct aesthetic. For those interested in securing one of the 100 examples, hesitation is ill-advised. The combination of Label Noir's cult status and the enduring popularity of the AIKON chassis suggests that inventory will be depleted shortly after the official launch.
Case: 45mm diameter, 12mm height, black DLC-plated stainless steel with brushed and polished finishes. Features sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating, open case back with sapphire glass, and screwed crown. Water resistant to 10 ATM.
Movement: Manufacture automatic ML234 caliber featuring hours, minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock. Specifications include 50-hour power reserve, 18,000 vph frequency, and 34 jewels.
Dial: Sapphire dial with translucent black varnish and turquoise flange. Markers are matte black-plated indexes; hands are turquoise-plated with turquoise Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Set includes grey leather strap with pin buckle and turquoise rubber strap with butterfly buckle. Buckles are black DLC-plated stainless steel. 25mm width with easy change system.
Price: 8,500.00 USD
Reference Number: AI6028-DLB0B-030-H
Notes: Limited Edition of 100 pieces. A collaboration with Label Noir based on the AIKON Manufacture Skeleton.