Louis Vuitton Monterey

Louis Vuitton, a house built on the art of travel since 1854, has a history intertwined with visionary collaborations. In the late 1980s, this spirit led to the brand's first foray into wristwatches, a move that would create a cult classic. The Maison is now revisiting that foundational moment with the release of the Louis Vuitton Monterey, a timepiece that resurrects a coveted design from 1988. This new iteration is not merely a copy but a thoughtful reinterpretation, elevating an avant-garde quartz-powered original into a mechanically sophisticated collector's piece. Limited to just 188 examples, the Monterey channels the audacious spirit of its predecessor while showcasing the contemporary savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

The story of the original Monterey begins in 1988 with the launch of the LV I and LV II watches. To bring this horological vision to life, Louis Vuitton partnered with Gae Aulenti, a formidable Italian architect and designer. Aulenti was a creative force, renowned for her work on seminal objects in the 1960s and, at that time, had just completed the groundbreaking transformation of a Parisian train station into the celebrated Musée d’Orsay. Her approach was unconventional and forward-thinking, making her the perfect choice to design a watch that would break from tradition and embody the Maison's identity.



Aulenti’s design for the LV I and LV II was a departure from the norms of the era. She conceived of a case shaped like a smooth, polished pebble, completely devoid of traditional lugs. This 40mm form, crafted in either yellow or white gold for the LV I, was organic and tactile. In a distinct nod to the history of timekeeping and travel, she placed the crown at the 12 o’clock position, evoking the classic form of a pocket watch. The dial itself embraced the travel spirit, featuring a railway track motif and complications like GMT and world time functions, reinforcing the brand's heritage. A smaller 37mm version, the LV II, was produced in innovative scratch-resistant ceramic and offered a time, date, and alarm function.

These watches quickly captured the imagination of collectors, who were drawn to their unique design language. This admiration led to an affectionate nickname, "Monterey." The name was born from the American pronunciation of the French word for watch, "montre," as the original pieces were officially referred to as Montre 1 and Montre 2. Nearly four decades later, the fascination with Aulenti's design has not faded; it has intensified. Original Monterey watches are now sought-after collector's items, appearing on the wrists of influential tastemakers and even gracing the Louis Vuitton Women's Fall-Winter 2025 runway, where Nicolas Ghesquière paired vintage LV II models with his new collection.

The new Louis Vuitton Monterey is a direct tribute to this legacy. According to Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the project's guiding principle was to respect the original design and spirit while striving for a more modern and elevated feel. The result is a purist reinterpretation that carries forward the most iconic elements of the 1988 original. The distinctive pebble-shaped case returns, now in a 39mm yellow gold format, paired with a brilliant white Grand Feu enamel dial. The most significant evolution, however, lies within, as the original quartz caliber has been replaced by a sophisticated in-house automatic movement.

Visually, the case is a study in fluid dynamics and polished surfaces. Crafted from a solid block of 18k yellow gold, its 39mm diameter provides a substantial yet comfortable presence. The entire surface is mirror-polished, creating a liquid-like reflection that accentuates its soft, rounded contours. The absence of lugs is a defining feature, allowing the black calf leather strap to integrate directly into the case structure, creating an unbroken and ergonomic line around the wrist. This design choice, inherited from Aulenti's vision, feels as contemporary today as it did in 1988.



The signature crown, positioned at 12 o’clock, remains a key element of the Monterey's character. For this modern version, it has been subtly refined for enhanced functionality and tactile appeal. The winding crown has been widened and its sides have been meticulously notched with a special Clous de Paris, or hobnail, texture. This intricate pattern, sculpted by hand-operated machinery at La Fabrique des Boîtiers Louis Vuitton, not only provides a better grip for winding and setting the watch but also adds a layer of intricate detail that catches the light beautifully. It is a small but significant upgrade that speaks to the level of craftsmanship applied to every component.

The case construction itself pays homage to Aulenti's ingenious design. The lug-less form is made possible by a clever quick-release strap system that is identical in principle to the 1988 model. This system secures the strap from the inside, maintaining the pure, uninterrupted pebble shape. The case back is solid gold and closed, a canvas for a discreet and personal engraving. Etched onto the surface, hidden beneath the leather strap and known only to the wearer, is the unique limited-edition number, "1 of 188," a private reminder of the watch's exclusivity. The case is rated for 50 meters of water resistance, ensuring it is suitable for daily wear.

The dial of the Monterey is where the Maison's commitment to ancestral watchmaking arts truly shines. The choice of Grand Feu enamel was deliberate, selected for its exceptional luster, durability, and the unique warmth of its finish. The brilliant white surface serves as a perfect canvas for the graphic, colorful scales that define the Monterey's look. This technique is revered for its ability to create dials with colors that will not fade over generations, maintaining their vibrancy indefinitely. It is a testament to the time, expertise, and intricate know-how behind its creation.

Creating a Grand Feu enamel dial is a painstaking and high-risk endeavor, requiring approximately 20 hours of focused work from a master artisan. The process begins with inspecting fine enamel powder under a microscope to ensure absolute purity. This powder is then mixed and carefully applied by hand with a fine brush onto a solid white gold dial plate. Achieving the perfect opaque white, one of the most challenging colors in enameling, involves meticulous layering. A thin base layer is applied and fired, followed by four subsequent layers, each interspersed with a trip to the kiln at temperatures ranging from 800 to 900°C. Each firing carries the risk of cracking or imperfections, which would force the artisan to start over from scratch.



Once the desired depth and color are achieved, the dial undergoes a finishing process. It is first lapped with special paper to create a perfectly flat surface. This prepares it for the final vitrification stage, where it is slowly fired at 720°C a total of ten times. This repeated, controlled heating is what creates the final solid, translucent layer and gives the dial its special glossy finish, an opaline effect with a richness and depth that can only be achieved through this traditional, hands-on craft.

With the pristine white canvas complete, the intricate graphics are applied. The dial's signature twin scales—an outer minute track in red and an inner hour track in blue—are created through an equally complex enamel stamping process. Ground enamel powder in red, blue, and black is mixed into a paste-like texture ideal for precise application. Over a two-hour period, each color is built up through a total of eight separate stamping applications. Four are applied and fired at 460°C, followed by another four at a higher temperature of 600°C to achieve the desired depth and volume for the numerals and tracks.

The dial's vibrant colors are echoed in the handset. The syringe-style hour and minute hands are crafted from 18K white gold and coated in a bright red lacquer, making them highly legible against the white background. They are complemented by a slim, blued steel seconds hand that provides a third color accent. The face is completed with the dual signatures "LOUIS VUITTON PARIS" at the top and "FAB. EN SUISSE" flanking the 6 o'clock position, printed in black enamel.

Beating at the heart of the new Monterey is the Caliber LFT MA01.02, a self-winding mechanical movement developed and assembled in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This represents the most significant departure from the 1988 original, replacing the quartz technology of the past with the intricate mechanics of traditional watchmaking. The caliber operates at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4Hz, and provides a reliable power reserve of 45 hours, perfectly suited to contemporary lifestyles.

Even though the movement is concealed behind a solid case back, it is finished to the same high standards as the watch's exterior. The main plate features circular-graining, while the bridges are sandblasted with micro-sandblasted edges. These finishes are not for show, but are a mark of the Maison's commitment to quality throughout. The caliber also incorporates Louis Vuitton's signature design codes, such as the 18K pink gold oscillating weight, which is trimmed with V-notches that subtly recall the famous LV Monogram. Hidden beneath the barrel lies the "poinçon LFT," a discreet seal of excellence from the manufacture.



The attention to detail extends to the 26 jewels used within the movement. In a contemporary touch, colorless sapphires are used instead of the traditional red rubies, reflecting a modern aesthetic even in the unseen components. This mechanical heart is intimately linked to the case proportions, allowing the watch to maintain a balanced profile with a thickness of 12.2mm. The shift to a mechanical caliber imbues the Monterey with a new soul, connecting it to a deeper tradition of horological craftsmanship.

The watch is secured to the wrist by a simple yet refined black calf leather strap. The supple leather provides a classic counterpoint to the bright polish of the yellow gold case, and its texture adds a tactile dimension to the wearing experience. The strap's direct integration with the case is a central part of the Monterey's design, creating a pure and uninterrupted silhouette. It is fastened by a traditional pin buckle, also crafted from 18k yellow gold to match the case.

The Louis Vuitton Monterey is a successful fusion of heritage and modernity. It demonstrates a deep respect for Gae Aulenti's original vision, retaining the polished pebble case, the unique strap attachment, and the iconic 12 o’clock crown that were hallmarks of the 1988 design. At the same time, it reinterprets these elements for today's collector, elevating the entire piece with superior materials and a sophisticated mechanical movement. The choice of Grand Feu enamel is a tribute to enduring craftsmanship, offering a brilliance and warmth that will last for generations.

This release fits perfectly within the broader narrative of Louis Vuitton. The Maison has always been about more than just luggage; it is about the "Art of Travel," a spirit that combines innovation, style, and the finest quality. Since its founding in 1854, Louis Vuitton has consistently collaborated with architects, artists, and designers to create products that are both creative and practical. The Monterey, born from such a collaboration and now reborn through the Maison's own watchmaking expertise, is a powerful testament to this enduring philosophy.



By honoring its past while confidently embracing the present, Louis Vuitton has created a timepiece that is both a nod to a cult classic and a forward-looking example of modern watchmaking. It represents a legacy of savoir-faire reimagined for a new generation of enthusiasts who appreciate bold design, historical significance, and meticulous craftsmanship.

The Louis Vuitton Monterey, reference W0YG11, is offered as a limited edition of 188 pieces worldwide, with a price of $59,000 USD. Reflecting its exclusive nature and the high level of craft involved in its production, the watch is not available for online purchase. Prospective buyers must inquire directly by phone or by visiting a Louis Vuitton boutique, ensuring a personal and dedicated acquisition experience.

Case: 18k yellow gold, 39mm diameter, 12.2mm thickness, mirror-polished finish, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, closed case back, 50m water resistance.

Movement: Caliber LFT MA01.02, self-winding mechanical, hours, minutes, seconds, 45-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz).

Dial: White Grand Feu enamel on a white gold plate, 18K white gold hour and minute hands with red lacquer, blued steel seconds hand, enamel pad printed numerals.

Strap: Black calf leather with an 18k yellow gold pin buckle.

Price: $59,000 USD.

Reference Number: W0YG11.

Notes: Limited edition of 188 pieces. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1988 model designed by Gae Aulenti, featuring a distinctive lug-less "pebble" case and a crown at 12 o'clock.