Louis Vuitton continues its ambitious exploration of high watchmaking and intricate artistic crafts with the unveiling of the Tambour Bushido Automata. This timepiece represents a significant step in the Maison's horological journey, turning its attention to the rich cultural tapestry of Japan, specifically the historical world of the Samurai and their guiding code, Bushido. It stands as a testament to the capabilities of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, merging complex mechanical animation with exceptional artisanal skill.
The creation of the Tambour Bushido Automata follows a path laid by previous automaton masterpieces from Louis Vuitton. The narrative began in 2021 with the Tambour Carpe Diem, a piece that used a skull-and-snake motif to offer a modern interpretation of Vanitas symbolism. Its daring design and mechanical ingenuity earned it the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Two years later, the Maison presented the Tambour Opera Automata, drawing inspiration from the Bian Lian art form of the Sichuan Opera, known for its rapid mask changes. Each piece demonstrated a commitment to pushing the boundaries of what an automaton watch could be, both mechanically and artistically.
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
With the Tambour Bushido Automata,
Louis Vuitton delves into the profound ethos of the Samurai. These warriors of pre-modern Japan were guided by Bushido, an intricate moral code emphasizing values like strength, discipline, loyalty, and duty. Bushido wasn't merely a set of rules; it was a way of life that deeply influenced Japanese culture and incorporated a strong appreciation for artistic expression alongside martial prowess. The Samurai mask, a critical component of their armor, served both practical and symbolic purposes, designed to project strength and intimidate opponents while also being an object of aesthetic significance.
This timepiece translates the essence of Bushido into a kinetic, visual performance on the wrist. At the heart of the watch lies the LV 525 calibre, a manual-winding mechanical movement meticulously developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This complex engine orchestrates a 16-second spectacle on demand, bringing the dial's central Samurai figure to life through a sequence of five distinct animations. The activation transforms the watch from a static display of craft into a dynamic storytelling device.
The animation sequence begins with the Samurai mask in a neutral, serene state against a lustrous golden backdrop. Pressing the dedicated push-piece initiates the mechanical ballet. A symbolic creature, a yokai, carved with meticulous detail, moves aside. This reveals the jumping hour, displayed digitally on the forehead section of the Samurai's helmet (kabuto). Simultaneously, a miniature katana sword, serving as the minute hand, glides across a retrograde scale to indicate the current minute.
Once the time is clearly displayed, the automaton sequence continues, focusing on the transformation of the Samurai's expression. The mask, initially impassive, shifts dramatically. The serene eyes appear to harden, conveying determination and resolve. In a particularly intricate detail, one eye, shaped like a rounded LV Monogram Flower, morphs into a pointed version, enhancing the look of intensity. The mask's jaw then hinges open, revealing rows of hand-crafted mother-of-pearl teeth framing the word "Bushido" inscribed in bold red Japanese characters, before snapping shut, completing the transformation and the time-telling sequence.
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
The dial itself serves as a canvas for extraordinary artistry, rich with symbolism that pays homage to Japanese culture. Beyond the central mask animation, other elements contribute to the narrative. At the nine o'clock position, a representation of Mount Fuji rises, depicted with artistic flair. Hovering above it is a deep red sun, which ingeniously doubles as the power reserve indicator for the movement's substantial 100-hour capacity. The position of this sun relative to the mountain visually signals the remaining energy stored in the mainspring.
The creation of the Tambour Bushido Automata heavily relied on the specialized skills housed within La Fabrique des Arts, the dedicated métiers d'art workshop at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Building on the expertise gained from the Carpe Diem and Opera Automata projects, the artisans were challenged to elevate their craft further, particularly in the realms of engraving and enameling, exploring new techniques to achieve unprecedented levels of detail and expression.
Master engraver Dick Steenman and his team invested significant effort into bringing the dial elements to life. The kabuto, or helmet, is a prime example. First, it was meticulously engraved in 18-carat pink gold. Following the engraving, it underwent a high-temperature firing process using the calamine technique. This specialized treatment creates a carbonaceous residue, giving the surface a unique, almost burnt appearance. This layer was then carefully hand-worked to selectively reveal the gleam of the underlying pink gold, creating a striking interplay of light and shadow that emphasizes the helmet's form and texture. A total of 140 hours were dedicated to the engraving work on the dial, push-piece, and crown alone.
Similar attention to detail is evident in the menpo, the Samurai's facial armor. Engraved in white gold using the bas-relief technique, the menpo exhibits remarkable contouring and realistic detail, conveying the protective yet expressive nature of this armor piece. The yokai figure perched on the helmet, carved from pink gold and set with tiny ruby eyes, appears vibrant and almost alive, thanks to the skillful manipulation of volume and perspective achieved by the engraver. Other hand-engraved elements include the decorative knot, the katana sword pointer and its handle, reinforcing the cohesive artistic vision.
The caseback continues the narrative and showcases finishing prowess. A red lacquer yokai mirrors the one on the dial, set against traditional high-watchmaking decorations like perlée (circular graining) and Côtes de Genève stripes. This juxtaposition highlights the blend of thematic art and horological tradition that defines the piece. Every surface seems considered, contributing to the overall story and aesthetic richness.
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Complementing the intricate engraving is the equally demanding art of enameling. La Fabrique des Arts utilized this project to experiment with and refine various techniques, demanding approximately 120 hours of dedicated enamel work. The artisans faced the challenge of applying enamel to achieve vivid color and perceptible volume while working with the extremely thin components required for the automaton mechanism, especially the mask elements.
The dial's background employs the paillonné enamel technique. An initial layer of pink enamel was applied, followed by delicate silver leaf (paillons). This was then covered by two layers of translucent enamel, which imparts the final golden hue. This layering process creates subtle color gradations and depth, particularly noticeable around the depiction of Mount Fuji. A final layer of clear fondant enamel provides a glossy, protective finish.
Mount Fuji itself is rendered using cloisonné enamel. Fine gold threads are shaped to form partitions (cloisons) which are then filled with enamel. Here, white enamel is used within the gold outlines to represent the snow-capped peak, giving it distinct form and volume against the golden backdrop. This technique requires immense precision in both shaping the gold wire and applying the enamel powder before firing.
The central mask is a focal point of the enamel work. After being sculpted by the engraver, it was coated with two layers of red enamel. Red is notoriously one of the most challenging enamel colors to master, requiring significant expertise to achieve the desired tone and consistency while firing, especially over a sculpted surface. A subsequent layer of painted enamel was applied to give the mask a sophisticated, slightly matte, antique-like finish, enhancing its dramatic appearance.
Even the smallest details received meticulous attention. The transforming eye combines cloisonné enamel for its outer structure with a touch of paillonné technique, using a tiny piece of gold leaf at its center. A final application of blue enamel adds a spark of vitality. The shikoro (neck guard) section of the helmet integrates Louis Vuitton's identity subtly, featuring Monogram Flowers created with a special blend of deep black and red enamel, a color scheme echoed inside the Samurai's mouth when the jaw opens.
The decorative knot element undergoes a similar multi-stage process. First engraved, it is then treated with miniature painting enamel techniques and multiple firings. This complex process results in an unexpectedly soft, almost velvet-like finish, adding another layer of tactile and visual interest. This dedication to refining and combining centuries-old crafts demonstrates the commitment to artistic innovation driving the project.
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
A significant development for this model is the extension of the elaborate artistry to the watch case itself. For the first time in a Louis Vuitton high watchmaking piece, the Tambour case features fully hand-engraved and enameled surfaces, including the bezel. The case sides depict scenes inspired by a Samurai's journey through Japan, featuring Mount Fuji and a red sun marked with an LV Monogram Flower. The background is a vibrant red enamel, achieved through a laborious process. First, the case surface is hand-hammered with countless tiny indentations. Translucent red enamel is then applied and fired at high temperature, allowing the enamel to fill the indentations. This creates a unique, textured grain effect. The process is delicate, with a constant risk of the enamel cracking during firing, and requires around 200 hours of work for the case alone.
The 18-carat pink gold bezel frames this intricate case work. It is finely engraved with delicate striations and cloud motifs, within which the letters spelling "Louis Vuitton" are subtly incorporated, catching the light. Because the engraving and enameling on both the dial and case are executed entirely by hand by the same artisans, each finished watch possesses unique nuances. This embrace of the subtle variations inherent in handcraftsmanship ensures that no two Tambour Bushido Automata watches will be absolutely identical, adding to their exclusivity.
The case housing this horological artwork is crafted from 18-carat pink gold, including the distinctive Tambour lugs. It measures a substantial 46.8 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness, dimensions necessary to accommodate the complex movement and automata mechanism. The push-piece activating the automaton and the winding crown are also hand-carved from 18-carat pink gold. Protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, ensuring clarity. The watch offers a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for daily wear but not aquatic activities.
Powering the Tambour Bushido Automata is the LV 525 calibre, the same base movement that drove the award-winning Tambour Carpe Diem. Developed by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, this manual-winding movement is a mechanical marvel comprising 426 individual components. Its complexity is underscored by the fact that it holds two patents and requires 180 hours for assembly alone. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 oscillations per hour (3 Hz) and features 50 jewels to minimize friction. The movement provides jumping hours, retrograde minutes, the five automata animations, and a power reserve indicator, all while offering a very practical 100-hour power reserve.
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Completing the watch is a vibrant red calf leather strap, echoing the prominent use of red on the dial and case enamel. The strap is secured by an 18-carat pink gold double folding buckle, providing both security and comfort on the wrist. Adding subtle accents of color and value, the watch features four cabochon-cut rubies, totaling approximately 0.02 carats. Two are set into the dial as the eyes of the yokai, one is set into the crown, and two adorn the automaton's push-piece.
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Bushido Automata represents a confluence of high mechanical complexity and profound artistic expression. It continues the Maison's narrative in automaton watchmaking, bringing a specific cultural theme to life with imaginative design and meticulous handcraftsmanship. This piece is positioned at the upper echelons of haute horlogerie. Reflecting the immense hours of artisanal work, complexity of the movement, precious materials, and the Louis Vuitton name, the Tambour Bushido Automata will undoubtedly be produced in extremely limited quantities, available only to select collectors through designated channels, and carry a price commensurate with its status as a mechanical work of art.
Case: 18K pink gold case, lugs, hand-carved crown and push-piece; Case diameter 46.8 mm, thickness 14.4 mm; Domed anti-reflection sapphire crystal; Water-resistant to 30 m; Push-piece set with 2 rubies, crown set with 1 ruby; Case and bezel fully hand-engraved and enameled.
Movement: LV 525 Calibre; Mechanical, manual-winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton; Automata mechanism with 5 animations, jumping hours, retrograde minutes, power reserve indicator; 426 components, 50 jewels, 100-hour power reserve, 21,600 oscillations per hour (3 Hz).
Dial: Handcrafted using paillonné, cloisonné, and miniature enamel techniques; Handcrafted engravings (mask, helmet, katana, yokai, bow); Dial set with two rubies; Features animated Samurai mask, Mount Fuji, power reserve indicator sun.
Strap: Red calf strap; 18K pink gold double folding buckle.
Price: Upon Request
Reference Number: W1PG31
Notes: Features a 16-second, on-demand automaton sequence with 5 animations revealing time and changing mask expression; Total 4 cabochon-cut rubies (~0.02 ct); Case engraving/enameling requires ~200 hours; Movement assembly requires 180 hours; Dial engraving requires ~140 hours; Dial enameling requires ~120 hours.