An intriguing new beast has been unleashed from the workshops of two of watchmaking's most dynamic and disparate forces. The collaboration between Louis Erard, the standard-bearer for accessible Swiss quality, and Konstantin Chaykin, the master of horological monstrosities, has once again borne strange fruit. This time, their creation has evolved, developing a more complex and mechanically sophisticated bite. The Time Eater, a character born from their previous joint effort, returns not just as a whimsical regulator but as the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon, a creature with a newly animated maw and a spinning mechanical heart.
The narrative of Louis Erard is one of steadfast independence and a mission to democratize fine watchmaking. Founded in 1929 in the Swiss Jura, the brand has cultivated a reputation for producing high-quality mechanical timepieces that don't command the astronomical prices often associated with the industry. For decades, Louis Erard has championed the regulator, a specific type of watch display that separates the hours, minutes, and seconds hands onto different axes, a complication historically prized for its precision. This focus on a classic, somewhat niche complication is emblematic of the brand's dedication to horological substance over fleeting trends.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
Under the contemporary leadership of Manuel Emch, Louis Erard has leaned into a more daring and collaborative chapter of its history. Emch has transformed the brand into a canvas for some of the most creative independent watchmakers of our time. By partnering with figures like Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter, Louis Erard has consistently pushed the boundaries of its own design language, blending its traditionalist roots with avant-garde aesthetics. This strategy has not only introduced the brand to a new generation of collectors but has also solidified its identity as a hub of creative energy, a place where established norms are playfully challenged.
On the other end of the creative spectrum operates Konstantin Chaykin, a figure who seems to have more in common with a mad scientist than a traditional watchmaker. From his manufacture established in 2003, Chaykin has unleashed a veritable menagerie of "WristMonsters," timepieces that are as much characters as they are mechanical instruments. He is an inventor in the truest sense, holding more patents—over 90—than any of his living peers. His work is a testament to a boundless imagination, resulting in creations like a clock that calculates Orthodox Easter and his most famous series, the Joker, a watch with a smiling face whose googly eyes indicate the time.
Chaykin's technical prowess is as formidable as his creative vision. He is credited with building the very first tourbillons in Russia, a feat that speaks to his mastery of complex mechanics. His creations are frequent highlights at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), where he won the Audacity Prize in 2018 for a watch that literally smiles back at the jury. In 2021, his Martian Tourbillon set a record as the most expensive Russian watch ever sold, cementing his status as a titan of independent watchmaking. As the only Russian member of the esteemed Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), and its former president, Chaykin's influence and unique perspective are recognized globally.
The genesis of the Time Eater Tourbillon was, perhaps, inevitable. The initial collaboration between Louis Erard and Chaykin produced a regulator watch that introduced the "Time Eater" monster, a one-eyed creature that captured the imaginations of collectors. It was a perfect fusion of Louis Erard's signature complication and Chaykin's monstrous aesthetics. However, according to Manuel Emch, Chaykin desired to push the concept further into the realm of complexity and horological madness. The natural evolution was the integration of a tourbillon, a complication that is not just a technical challenge but a personal signature for the Russian watchmaker.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
The result is a watch that feels less like a product and more like a creature brought to life. It retains the core DNA of the original—the single eye, the unconventional hands—but adds a significant new feature that elevates its character. This isn't a mere sequel; it's a metamorphosis. The project embodies the spirit of two independent creators unbound by corporate constraints, indulging in the pure fun of making something genuinely different. As Emch puts it, they are "building creatures, not just watches," allowing their monster to come out and play in the often-staid world of high-end horology.
Visually, the Time Eater Tourbillon is immediately arresting. The dial is a face, dominated by a large, singular cyclopean eye at the 12 o’clock position. This is the hour indicator, a rotating disc with a black numeral that peers out from an anthracite circular satin-finished flange. The design cleverly transforms a functional necessity into a primary character trait. Below this eye, a central, matte black hand with two distinct monster-like tips sweeps across the dial to mark the minutes, adding to the creature's quirky and slightly rebellious persona. The entire composition is framed by a vibrant, colorful minute track that gives each version of the watch its unique personality.
The most dramatic new feature resides at 6 o’clock. Where one might expect a simple small seconds subdial, Chaykin and Louis Erard have installed the tourbillon, framing it as the monster’s gaping mouth. The tourbillon cage, which makes a complete rotation every 60 seconds, is set against a red flange adorned with sharp white teeth. Inside this mechanical maw, a red, tongue-shaped hand serves as the seconds indicator, constantly in motion as it "licks" its way around the toothed perimeter. This brilliant integration of a high complication into the narrative of the design is what sets the timepiece apart; the tourbillon is not just displayed, it's an active, vital part of the creature's face.
The case of the Time Eater Tourbillon is a study in refined proportion, providing a polished vessel for the wild character within. Crafted from polished stainless steel, it measures 42mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug distance of 49.60mm and a thickness of 12.65mm. These dimensions give the watch a substantial but wearable presence on the wrist. The three-part case construction is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, ensuring a clear view of the dial's intricate details from any angle.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
Flipping the watch over reveals a transparent caseback, offering an unobstructed view of the movement within. The caseback is engraved with the collaboration details and the specific limited edition number, such as "Limited Edition 1 of 78" for the green model. A key detail is the crown, which bears the signature design of Konstantin Chaykin, a small but significant touch that marks this as a true collaborative piece. The case is also rated for a water resistance of 5 bar, or 50 meters, providing a practical degree of protection for daily wear.
The dial is where the two distinct versions of the Time Eater Tourbillon declare their allegiance. The version sold by Louis Erard features a shiny green minute ring, a color choice that playfully nods to the first Time Eater collaboration as well as the iconic green of Chaykin's Joker watch. The logos of both Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are transferred in white onto this ring. The main dial plate, beneath the monster's features, is a silver-toned surface decorated with a captivating sunray wave pattern that adds depth and texture to the face.
In contrast, the second version, sold exclusively by Konstantin Chaykin, is defined by a shiny blue minute ring. This version is produced in a much smaller run, making it the rarer of the two beasts. Both dials share the same underlying architecture: the silver-toned wave-patterned lower plate, the anthracite hour flange, and the dramatic red and white tourbillon cage flange. The choice of color is the primary visual differentiator, allowing collectors to pick their preferred monster.
The hands of the watch are as unconventional as the rest of the design. The hour is not indicated by a hand at all, but by the aforementioned shiny white disc with a black transferred numeral, visible through the "eye" at 12 o'clock. The minutes are read via a large, centrally mounted hand, finished in matte black and featuring two pointed tips, resembling the claws or fingers of a monster. The most animated element is the seconds hand, a red, tongue-shaped component fixed to the tourbillon cage at 6 o'clock, which spins with the tourbillon's 60-second rotation.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
Powering this creature is the Caliber BCP T02, a manually wound tourbillon régulateur movement. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and is built with 19 jewels. A significant feature of this caliber is its impressive power reserve of approximately 100 hours, allowing the watch to run for over four days on a single full wind. The movement itself is visible through the sapphire caseback and features a circular decoration on its bridges, a subtle touch of traditional finishing on a decidedly untraditional timepiece.
The tourbillon itself is a key technical highlight. The cage makes a complete rotation every 60 seconds, functioning as both a timekeeping regulator and the seconds indicator. This complication, invented to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch's accuracy, is here re-contextualized as a core part of the watch's aesthetic and narrative identity. Its constant, mesmerizing spin brings the "mouth" of the Time Eater to life.
The choice of straps further enhances the distinct character of each version. The Louis Erard green edition (Ref. 89241AA90.BGA088) is fitted with a striking black toad leather strap. This exotic texture adds to the monstrous theme, and it's complemented by green stitching that ties back to the dial's minute track. The lining is a comfortable green rabbit leather. In contrast, the Chaykin-exclusive blue edition (Ref. 89241AA91.BVA170) comes with a more subdued but equally luxurious black grained calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a black calf leather lining.
Both straps are equipped with a polished stainless steel pin buckle and feature quick-release spring bars. This practical addition allows the owner to easily change the strap without the need for tools, offering versatility and convenience. The lug width is 22mm, tapering to 20mm at the buckle, a standard size that provides a wide range of aftermarket strap options for those who wish to customize the look even further.
The concept of the Time Eater is fundamentally playful. It is an irreverent jab at the seriousness that often pervades the world of horology. By giving the watch a face and a personality, the collaborators invite a different kind of interaction with the timepiece. It's designed to be looked at, to provoke a smile, and to be a conversation starter. The addition of the tourbillon deepens this concept, giving the monster a new "bite" and a mechanical tongue that constantly taunts the passage of time.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
This collaboration is a masterclass in synergy. It leverages Louis Erard's production capabilities and commitment to value, making a complex watch like a tourbillon accessible at a price point far below what is typical for such a complication. Simultaneously, it provides an unfettered platform for Konstantin Chaykin's unique genius for character and mechanical invention. Neither brand could have created this watch alone; it is the product of their combined strengths and shared sense of creative fun.
The pricing for both the green and blue editions of the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon is set at a recommended retail price of CHF 19,900, excluding tax. For a Swiss-made timepiece featuring a tourbillon and born from such a high-profile collaboration, this figure is remarkably aggressive. Louis Erard describes it as a "price that doesn’t bite," a clever continuation of the monster theme that underscores the brand's core philosophy of offering exceptional value. Given the limited nature of the release and the immense popularity of both brands, these mechanical beasts are not expected to remain uncaged for long.
Case: Polished stainless steel, 42mm, 12.65mm thickness, 49.60mm lug-to-lug, 22mm lug width. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Transparent caseback. Water-resistant to 5 bars (50m / 165ft). Signature Konstantin Chaykin crown.
Movement: Caliber BCP T02, tourbillon régulateur mechanical manual-winding. Ø31.80mm, 6.50mm thickness, 19 jewels, 21,600 vph (3Hz). Approx. 100 hours of power reserve. Tourbillon cage makes a complete rotation every 60 seconds.
Dial: Shiny green (Louis Erard version) or shiny blue (Chaykin version) minutes ring. Silver-toned lower plate with sunray wave pattern. Anthracite circular satin-finished hour flange. Hour "eye" at 12 o'clock, central minutes hand, and tourbillon at 6 o'clock with red tongue-shaped seconds hand.
Strap: Green version: Black toad leather with green stitching and green rabbit leather lining. Blue version: Black grained calf leather with tone-on-tone stitching. Polished stainless steel pin buckle and quick-release spring bars.
Price: CHF 19,900 (Excl. Tax)
Reference Number: 89241AA90.BGA088 (Green); 89241AA91.BVA170 (Blue)
Notes: A limited edition collaboration between Louis Erard (78 green pieces) and Konstantin Chaykin (28 blue pieces). The tourbillon at 6 o'clock serves as the monster's mouth with a red tongue seconds hand, while the hour is indicated by a single cyclopean eye.