Reaching the quarter-century mark is a significant milestone for any watch manufacturer, but for an independent maison like Gerald Charles, it represents a validation of a distinct artistic vision. The 25th anniversary of the brand founded by the legendary Monsieur Gérald Charles Genta is being commemorated not with a quiet nod to the past, but with a forceful declaration of future intent at Dubai Watch Week. Amidst the independent heavyweights, Gerald Charles has unveiled a massive physical presence, an architectural pavilion that serves as a stage for their latest horological drama. At the center of this celebration sits a singular, radiant object: the Maestro GC39 Remaster Diamond Baguettes. This unique timepiece does not merely look back at the brand’s origins; it remixes them with a level of opulence and technical sophistication that signals the company’s evolution from a niche design house to a fully-fledged manufacture.
The context of this release is vital to understanding the watch itself. Gerald Charles has chosen to present this piece alongside its largest-ever exhibition stand, a 159-square-meter structure that physically embodies the brand’s ambition. For the first time, the Gerald Charles Atelier Museum has left Geneva, bringing archival sketches and original masterpieces to the Middle East. This pilgrimage of heritage sets the stage for the Maestro GC39 Remaster Diamond Baguettes, a watch that effectively bridges the gap between Genta’s original 2005 designs and the high-tech material science the brand employs today. While the standard 25th Anniversary Edition is a limited run of 100 pieces, the Diamond Baguettes version is a unique execution, a solitary example of high jewelry fused with high mechanics, designed specifically to capture the spotlight in Dubai.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Visually, the watch is an arresting study in geometry and light. The Maestro case shape, now an instantly recognizable silhouette in the industry, is often described as an asymmetric polygon with a "smile" at six o'clock. In this iteration, that architectural form is crafted from polished Grade 5 titanium, a material choice that presents a fascinating contradiction. Titanium is prized for its extreme lightness and industrial durability, yet here it is treated with the gloss and finish typically reserved for precious metals like platinum or white gold. The metalwork alone is impressive, given how notoriously difficult Grade 5 titanium is to machine and polish to such a high luster. The case measures 42mm by 42mm, a modern size that commands attention without overwhelming the wrist, thanks in large part to the svelte 11mm profile.
The defining feature of this unique piece, however, is the bezel. The stepped, complex geometry of the Maestro case provides a challenging canvas for gem-setting, yet the artisans have flawlessly integrated 60 baguette-cut diamonds into the framework. Totaling approximately 2.66 carats, these stones do not merely sit on top of the case; they accentuate its tiered structure. The linear nature of the baguette cut complements the sharp angles and straight lines of the case flanks, creating a coherent design language rather than a simple dusting of sparkle. When light hits the watch, the reflection is orderly and intense, distinct from the scattered scintillation of brilliant-cut stones. This choice of cut reinforces the architectural, rather than merely decorative, nature of the timepiece.
Beneath the diamond-set bezel lies a dial that is equally complex, utilizing materials and techniques that border on the experimental. The centerpiece is a slice of Lapis Lazuli, a stone historically favored by Gérald Genta himself for its deep, celestial blue hue and natural inclusions. Working with hard stones in watchmaking is a perilous endeavor; the material is brittle and unforgiving. The process of cutting the raw Lapis into the specific silhouette required for the Maestro takes 24 hours of meticulous labor, with the risk of the stone shattering present at every stage of cutting, polishing, and assembly. This central stone is not just a decorative disk but the anchor for the entire face of the watch, grounding the more technical elements that surround it in organic beauty.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Surrounding the Lapis Lazuli center is a display of "Meta-Guillochage," a proprietary technique that Gerald Charles is debuting with this anniversary collection. Traditional guilloché involves mechanically engraving patterns onto a metal surface, but Meta-Guillochage is a micro-chemical engraving process. This method allows for a depth and precision that traditional tools struggle to achieve on complex surfaces. The result is a multi-ray star motif that appears to radiate from the center of the dial. The texture is incredibly intricate, catching the light in a way that creates a sense of movement even when the watch is static. It gives the dial a Baroque sensibility, layering historical decorative arts with modern chemical engineering to create a visual depth that looks almost three-dimensional.
The time-telling method employed here is a direct tribute to the original 2005 Maestro GC39 "montre à guichet." It features a jumping hour complication, a mechanism that remains relatively rare in contemporary watchmaking due to its technical demands. Instead of an hour hand sweeping slowly around the dial, a disc located at the 12 o'clock position displays the hour digit through a window. This disc remains stationary for 59 minutes and then, precisely as the minute hand crosses the 60-minute mark, jumps instantaneously to the next hour. This digital display of time in a mechanical watch offers a clean, highly legible aesthetic that removes the clutter of overlapping hands, allowing the Lapis Lazuli and Meta-Guillochage to dominate the visual field.
The mechanics required to achieve this jump are substantial and pose a significant challenge to the movement designers. The jumping hour disc is approximately 25 times heavier than a standard skeletonized hour hand. To move this mass instantly requires a tremendous surge of energy. The engineers at Gerald Charles had to contend with the realities of Newton’s second law of motion, calculating that the sudden acceleration needed to jump the disc requires a force up to 70,000 times greater than what is needed to drive a traditional continuous hand. Managing this energy release without disrupting the amplitude of the balance wheel or causing excessive wear on the components is a feat of modern horological engineering.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Powering this display is the Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Calibre Jumping Hours, a movement developed and patented in-house. It is an automatic engine beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), ensuring a high degree of precision. Despite the energy-hungry nature of the jumping hour mechanism, the movement manages to deliver a healthy 50-hour power reserve. The architecture of the movement is visible through the sapphire case back, revealing a golden unidirectional oscillating weight. This rotor is decorated with the special 25th Anniversary logo and features a honeycomb motif, a signature pattern for the brand. The bridges underneath are finished with a mix of colimaçon (snailing), Côtes de Genève, and perlage, ensuring that the view from the back is as compelling as the view from the front.
Durability has not been sacrificed for the sake of the complication. The movement is fortified with an Incabloc anti-shock system and has been tested to withstand shocks of up to 5G using a 5-axis robotic arm. This robustness suggests that despite the diamond setting and the delicate Lapis Lazuli dial, the Maestro GC39 Remaster is intended to be worn rather than kept in a safe. The case is water-resistant to 10 ATM (100 meters), a surprising spec for a jumping hour watch, further emphasizing its capability as a daily wearer. The screw-down crown, also made of Grade 5 titanium and finished with a Clous de Paris texture, ensures the case remains sealed against the elements.
The strap integration is another area where Gerald Charles has focused on ergonomics and tactile quality. The watch is fitted with a Royal Blue vulcanised rubber strap that perfectly matches the Lapis Lazuli dial. The top surface of the strap features a Clous de Paris pattern, echoing the texture of the crown and adding a layer of sophistication to the humble rubber material. On the reverse side, a tapisserie of the Gerald Charles logo provides grip and breathability. It is secured to the wrist with a polished butterfly deployant buckle, made from the same Grade 5 titanium as the case. This choice of strap material creates a compelling contrast with the diamond-set bezel, blending the worlds of high sport and high jewelry.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The wearing experience of the Maestro GC39 Remaster Diamond Baguettes is defined by the unique properties of its materials. While the visual impact is heavy—thanks to the diamonds and the bold blue dial—the physical weight is remarkably low due to the titanium case construction. The watch sits flat and secure on the wrist, with the asymmetric lugs curving to hug the arm. The legibility is stark and immediate; the eye is drawn instantly to the window at 12 o'clock for the hour, while the blued central hand tracks the minutes against the black minute track and polished Colormix blue cabochon indexes. It is a watch that demands interaction, from the visual check of the time to the tactile winding of the crown.
This release also highlights the "family-driven" nature of the maison, as noted by CEO Federico. The creation of such a piece is described as coming from the heart rather than pure business logic. Celebrating 25 years with a piece that combines so many disparate elements—titanium, diamonds, rubber, Lapis Lazuli, jumping hours—is a risk, but one that pays off by showcasing the full breadth of the manufacture's capabilities. It serves as a reward to the collectors who have supported the brand's resurgence, offering them a physical manifestation of the brand's growth and technical maturity.
The choice of Dubai Watch Week for this debut is strategic, placing Gerald Charles directly in front of some of the most knowledgeable and passionate collectors in the world. The immersive experiences offered at their booth, such as the dial-hammering sessions guided by master watchmakers, provide context for the craftsmanship visible in the Maestro GC39. By allowing visitors to step into the shoes of a watchmaker, the brand demystifies the complexity of techniques like Meta-Guillochage and gem-setting, creating a deeper appreciation for the finished product.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
In terms of availability, the Maestro GC39 Remaster Diamond Baguettes is an exclusive creation. While the standard Grade 5 Titanium anniversary model is limited to 100 pieces with a pre-order delivery timeline of approximately two months, the Diamond Baguettes version stands apart as a unique piece crafted specifically for the occasion of Dubai Watch Week. Pricing for such a unique high-jewelry masterpiece is typically available only upon request, reflecting its status as a singular object of art and engineering. For the collector who secures it, it represents not just a timekeeper, but a tangible slice of the brand's 25-year history, crystallized in titanium, diamonds, and stone.
Case: Maestro asymmetric polygon shape measuring 42mm x 42mm with a thickness of 11mm. Crafted from polished Grade 5 Titanium featuring a bezel set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds totaling 2.66 carats. Includes a screw-down crown with Clous de Paris finish, see-through case back, and water resistance up to 10 ATM (100 meters).
Movement: In-house Swiss Manufacture 4.0 automatic caliber featuring an anti-clockwise jumping hour complication with concentric central minutes. Beats at 28,800 A/h (4Hz) with a 50-hour power reserve and 265 components. Features a gold unidirectional oscillating weight with honeycomb motif and bridges finished with colimaçon, Côtes de Genève, and perlage.
Dial: Lapis Lazuli center stone surrounded by a Colormix blue frame and black minute track. Features Meta-Guillochage micro-chemical engraving with a multi-ray star motif. Includes a jumping hour window at 12 o'clock, sword-shaped hands, and polished Colormix blue cabochon indexes.
Strap: Royal Blue vulcanised rubber strap with Clous de Paris pattern on the top side and Gerald Charles logo tapisserie on the reverse. Secured by a polished Grade 5 Titanium butterfly deployant buckle.
Price: Price on request
Reference Number: GC39-TNPS-LSEN-RSDP-REM (Base model reference)
Notes: This is a unique piece created specifically for Dubai Watch Week to celebrate the brand's 25th anniversary. It marks the debut of the proprietary Meta-Guillochage technique and features a jumping hour mechanism that requires significant torque to move the hour disk, which is 25 times heavier than a standard hand.