A notable timepiece has emerged, the
Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Remaster, coinciding with the brand's 25th anniversary. This watch is not merely a commemoration but also a vehicle for philanthropy, as it is slated to be sold for the benefit of the Action Innocence Association. The model, designated as an anniversary edition and a "pièce unique" (unique piece) circa 2025, represents a singular creation within the Gerald Charles lineup.
The Maestro GC39 Remaster is an automatic jump hours wristwatch, a complication particularly favored by the brand's founder, the late Gérald Charles Genta, often referred to as 'Maestro'. This specific iteration distinguishes itself with an opale dial and a case constructed from polished Grade 5 titanium. The creation of a polished titanium case of this complexity presented a considerable challenge for the watchmakers.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Visually, the watch commands attention with its distinctive asymmetric square Maestro case, a design hallmark inspired by baroque art and architecture, specifically a 17th-century Baroque monument in Rome by Francesco Borromini. This architectural influence is evident in the cascading bezel and the subtle convex curve, or "smile," at the 6 o'clock position of the case. The case measures 42mm wide and, despite its intricate design and the jumping hours complication, maintains a slim profile of just 11mm in thickness. This, combined with the lightweight nature of titanium, aims for a comfortable and striking presence on the wrist.
Central to the watch's face is the opale dial. This particular example features a rare Australian Fire Opal at its core, known for its warm, vibrant hues of yellow, orange, and deep red, often exhibiting a translucent or glassy clarity that contributes to its "flame-like" glow. The opal is a product of ancient geological processes, composed of hydrated silica and containing up to 20% water. Cutting this delicate stone into the specific Maestro shape is a complex task, reportedly carrying an 80% risk of breakage, underscoring the rarity of this dial. Surrounding the opal, the dial incorporates a multi-ray star motif created using an in-house developed technique called meta-guilloché.
The meta-guilloché technique is an evolution of traditional guillochage. It employs micro-electrochemical machining to create ultra-precise microstructures directly on the material, without the need for coatings, varnishes, or other additives. This process allows the pattern to appear almost invisible from certain angles, only to reveal itself as light interacts with the surface, causing shifts from illuminated to dark areas. This dynamic visual effect is designed to give the dial a diamond-like appearance at first glance, as if set with baguette-cut stones. Beyond aesthetics, this technique is also chosen for its technical advantages, such as removing only a minimal layer of material, contributing to the watch's slimness and minimizing material waste while enabling intricate detailing.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The 'Jumping Hours' complication is a key feature of the Maestro GC39 Remaster. Instead of a traditional hour hand, the hour is displayed digitally in an aperture on the dial. This window reveals a portion of a larger disc located beneath the dial. This disc 'jumps' instantaneously to the next hour every 60 minutes, as the minute hand completes its revolution. This remaster marks an evolution from the original 2005 Maestro GC39, which featured a sliding hours movement where the hour was indicated via a rotating disc visible through an aperture at 12 o’clock. The decision to enhance this to a jumping hours complication reflects Mr. Genta's fascination with this rare mechanical display.
Powering this complication is the new Gerald Charles Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Calibre Jumping Hours. This automatic movement, developed and patented in-house, features a 50-hour power reserve and required an additional 80 components compared to a standard time-only movement. The engineering of this calibre presented significant challenges. The jumping hours disc consumes the same amount of energy in advancing one hour as a typical mechanical movement uses in 3,600 seconds. Furthermore, this disc is approximately 25 times heavier than a conventional hour hand. Consequently, the mechanism requires a force about 90,000 times greater than that of a standard three-hand watch to operate the jump. The movement's components are hand-finished with traditional decorative techniques such as Côtes de Genève and perlage, executed by the Maison’s artisans. The wheels of the movement are rhodium-plated. A golden oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire case back, is decorated with a honeycomb motif and engraved with the 25th-anniversary logo.
The watch has undergone several technical advancements beyond the movement. Water resistance has been increased to 100 meters (10 ATM), and shock resistance has been elevated to 5G. Ergonomics have also been a focus, with the implementation of the Maison’s proprietary Ergonteq® standard. This engineering approach ensures that the lugs, case, and strap are designed to sit comfortably on the wrist, adapting to various wrist sizes by maximizing surface contact, enhancing stability, and optimizing weight distribution.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The Maestro GC39 Remaster will be delivered with two vulcanized rubber straps, one in Royal Blue and another in Orange, both featuring a Clous de Paris pattern on the top side and the Gerald Charles logo tapisserie on the rear. These 24/20 size straps are paired with a polished Grade 5 Titanium butterfly deployant buckle. Additional strap options in leather, velcro, and rubber are also available. The crystal is sapphire with inner and external multi-layer anti-reflection treatment. The case back also features a flat sapphire crystal. The screw-down crown is finished with a Clous de Paris pattern and an embossed logo. The dial details include a Colormix blue frame, a black minute track, applied cabochon indexes in polished Colormix blue, and sword-shaped hands, also in Colormix blue. The "Gerald Charles Genève" logo is present on the dial.
This unique timepiece is not just a showcase of horological skill but also a charitable endeavor. Gerald Charles has announced the donation of this Maestro GC39 Remaster to Action Innocence. The watch is scheduled to be auctioned by Christie’s on May 12th, with the full hammer price from the sale being allocated to Action Innocence to support its mission of protecting the dignity and integrity of children, teenagers, and individuals with special needs in their use of screens and digital technologies. Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, stated, "This initiative marks 25 years of Gerald Charles with a message: true luxury lies in giving back." He further emphasized the personal importance of this cause, particularly in the context of the evolving digital world. As an added personal touch, the initials of the auction winner will be engraved on the case back of the watch.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Maison Gerald Charles was founded in 2000 by Mr. Gérald Charles Genta, who lent his first two names to his final brand. In 2003, Mr. Genta sold the company to the Ziviani family, remaining as designer-in-chief until 2011. The company has historically produced watches in limited quantities for a select clientele. Mr. Genta left behind a significant archive of his drawings from his last 11 years, many of which remain unpublished and serve as a source of inspiration for the Maison’s future developments. A new board of directors took over in 2019, with Federico Ziviani as CEO. In late 2023, Franco Ziviani joined the family business as Chairman. In Spring 2024, Gerald Charles inaugurated its Atelier in Geneva, a new facility that serves as both a home and a cultural hub, housing a museum and showcasing the core collection. The Maison currently produces approximately 1500 timepieces annually, adhering to the legacy of 'Artistic Creativity, Technical Mastery' and complying with Qualité Fleurier standards.
Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is widely regarded as one of the most influential watch designers in history. He is credited with creating some of the most iconic wristwatch models for renowned brands such as
Patek Philippe (Nautilus),
Audemars Piguet (Royal Oak) and
IWC (Ingenieur). Under his own name, Genta was known for creating highly complicated watches, including his 'Grande Sonnerie', which held a record for the world's most complicated watch for consecutive years in the mid-1990s. He also gained fame for his limited-edition watches featuring Walt Disney characters, which remain sought after by collectors. His clientele included a diverse array of prominent individuals from various fields.
Action Innocence, the beneficiary of the auction, is a private foundation established in Geneva in 1999 by Valérie Wertheimer. Its initial focus was to raise awareness about the harmful effects of the internet and combat new forms of child exploitation facilitated by online technologies. Over the years, its programs have expanded to include prevention initiatives for children, teenagers, individuals with special needs, parents, and professionals in education, health, and social services. The foundation conducts extensive media campaigns to raise public awareness and, until 2018, ran a program called AntiPedoFiles, which developed tracking software for law enforcement to combat child pornography.
The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Remaster comes with an undated Certificate of Origin, product literature, a presentation box, and outer packaging. It also includes a 2-year warranty, extendable to 5 years upon registration through the ‘Smart Warranty’ system.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The technical specifications for the Maestro GC39 Remaster (Reference: GC39-TNPS-OP01-RSDP-REM) are as follows: The case is made of 34 components of Grade 5 Titanium with a polished finishing, measuring 42x42mm. The movement is the automatic Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Caliber, a GC Jumping Hours movement developed in-house. It features an anti-clockwise Jumping Hour with concentric central minutes. The movement comprises 265 components, including 38 rubies, and operates at a frequency of 28,800 A/h (4Hz). The movement thickness, including the jumping hour module, is 6.15mm.
The forthcoming auction of the Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Remaster at Christie's represents a confluence of horological artistry, brand heritage, and charitable giving. This unique piece, with its distinctive design, rare materials, and complex mechanics, offers collectors an opportunity to acquire a singular watch while supporting a significant cause. The event underscores Gerald Charles's commitment to both preserving the legacy of its founder and engaging with contemporary social issues.
Case: Grade 5 Titanium, polished finishing. 34 components. Diameter: 42x42mm. Screw-down crown with Clous de Paris finishing and embossed logo. Flat sapphire crystal case back. Water resistance: 10 ATM/100 m. Total thickness: 11 mm.
Movement: Automatic, Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Caliber. GC Jumping Hours movement in-house development. Anti-clockwise Jumping Hour with concentric central minutes. Bridges finely decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage finishes. Rhodium-plated module wheels. Thickness: 6.15mm high with JH module included. 265 components. 38 rubies. Frequency: 28,800 A/h - 4Hz. Power Reserve: 50 hours. Central oscillating mass decorated with the new 25th Anniversary logo and the Gerald Charles "Honeycomb" design.
Dial: Australian Fire Opal at the centre. Proprietary new precision micro-chemical engraving technique developed by Gerald Charles, called meta-guillochage. Colormix blue frame. Black minute track. Applied cabochons indexes - polished Colormix blue. Sword shape hands, Colormix blue. Logo Gerald Charles Genève. Sapphire crystal with inner and external multi-layer anti-reflection treatment.
Strap: Royal Blue and Orange vulcanised rubber straps, 24/20 size. Clous de Paris pattern to top side, Gerald Charles logo tapisserie to rear. Butterfly deployant buckle, in polished Grade 5 Titanium.
Price: To be determined by auction at Christie’s on May 12th.
Reference Number: GC39-TNPS-OP01-RSDP-REM
Notes: Pièce unique made for the 25th Anniversary of the Gerald Charles brand. Sold for the benefit of Action Innocence Association. Features a rare Australian Fire Opal and an in-house developed meta-guilloché technique on the dial. The initials of the auction winner will be engraved on the case back.