Longines is introducing a significant update to one of its cornerstone collections for women, the PrimaLuna. This 2025 redesign is not merely a subtle refresh but a comprehensive re-evaluation of the watch's form and function, seeking to advance its design language while retaining the core identity that has defined it. The collection showcases a renewed focus on refined proportions, enhanced mechanical capabilities, and an ambitious use of precious materials, signaling a confident new direction for the brand's feminine watchmaking.
The history of
Longines is deeply intertwined with the creation of timepieces for women. For well over a century, the Saint-Imier watchmaker has demonstrated a consistent dedication to this segment, producing everything from intricate, gem-set pieces in the early 20th century to sophisticated mechanical complications in more recent decades. This long-standing commitment has solidified the brand's reputation as a key player in feminine horology. The new PrimaLuna collection builds upon this legacy, aiming to appeal to a modern woman who seeks both aesthetic refinement and the robust precision of Swiss engineering in her wristwear.
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The transformation of the PrimaLuna begins with its case. Now presented in a 34 mm diameter, the architecture has been thoroughly re-sculpted. The surfaces feature a subtle doming, a design choice that moves away from flat, angular lines and instead embraces gentle curves. This shaping creates a dynamic interplay with light, allowing the polished surfaces to catch and reflect their surroundings, which softens the watch's presence on the wrist. This focus on curvature and light adds a layer of visual depth and grace to the timepiece's overall silhouette.
A particularly noteworthy detail in the redesign is the crown. Moving beyond a purely functional component, it has been reimagined as a small, sculptural element. Its form is distinctly rounded, evoking the shape of a full moon, a clear nod to the collection's name and its primary astronomical complication. The surface of the crown is not smooth but features delicate engravings of lunar crescents, providing a tactile connection to the celestial theme. This thoughtful detail demonstrates a holistic design approach, where even the smallest parts are integrated into the watch's narrative.
At the heart of the new PrimaLuna beats the exclusive Longines calibre L899.5. This self-winding mechanical movement represents a significant technical upgrade for the collection. For the first time, the moonphase complication is paired with a pointer date display, integrated within the same sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position. This adds a layer of everyday practicality to the poetic display of the lunar cycle, making the watch a more versatile companion. The movement's engineering ensures this functionality does not come at the expense of performance.
The technical prowess of the L899.5 extends to its core components. It is equipped with a silicon balance spring, a material prized in modern watchmaking for its superior properties. Silicon is non-magnetic, resistant to corrosion, and less susceptible to the effects of temperature variations and minor shocks. These characteristics contribute to greater chronometric stability and long-term precision. The movement operates at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour and provides an impressive power reserve of up to 72 hours, meaning the watch can be set down for a full weekend and will still be running accurately on Monday morning.
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The collection offers a variety of dial expressions to suit different tastes. One of the classic options is a sunray silver dial. This finish gives the dial a metallic luster that radiates from the center, creating a sense of depth and movement as light plays across its surface. This version features sharply printed Roman numerals, available in either a
Deep Blue or a stark black, which provide excellent contrast and legibility. The blued steel hands on the silver dial with blue numerals offer a traditional touch, their color achieved through a heat-treatment process that adds a flash of vibrant character.
For a different kind of visual appeal, Longines offers a white mother-of-pearl dial. Instead of printed numerals, this variant is adorned with 14 brilliant-cut diamond indexes. Mother-of-pearl is a natural material, and its organic, iridescent quality ensures that no two dials are exactly alike. The way it shimmers with subtle shifts of color, from pink to green to blue, provides a captivating and ever-changing backdrop for the polished hands and diamond markers, creating a look of understated opulence.
The pinnacle of the new collection is an extraordinary model featuring a celestial blue mother-of-pearl dial. This unique shade of blue is new for the brand and gives the dial an ethereal, otherworldly quality. Like the white version, this dial is set with 14 diamond indexes that sparkle like stars against a night sky. This particular model represents the collection's most ambitious and artistic expression, combining advanced watchmaking with high-jewelry techniques to create a truly special piece.
What sets this flagship model apart is its bezel. For the first time in the PrimaLuna’s history, the bezel is not set with diamonds but with 48 carefully selected blue sapphires, totaling 1.06 carats. These are not uniform stones; they are meticulously arranged in a subtle gradation of both size and color. The arrangement includes four distinct hues, from a light, sky blue to a deep, midnight blue, creating a seamless transition of color that mirrors the changing shades of the sky at twilight. This complex gem-setting is a testament to the brand's artisanal skill.
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Sapphire is a deliberate and meaningful choice for this watch. As a gemstone, it is a symbol of wisdom and royalty, but its physical properties are equally important. Ranking 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is second only to diamond, making it exceptionally resistant to scratches and ensuring the bezel maintains its flawless finish over time. The process of selecting, precisely cutting, and setting these stones to achieve a perfect gradient is a highly specialized craft, elevating the watch from a simple timepiece to a piece of wearable art.
Across all models, the hands have been subtly redesigned. Their profiles are now narrower and more delicate, yet they retain their polished finish, ensuring they are immediately recognizable as part of the PrimaLuna family. The finish of the hands is carefully matched to each model's aesthetic. Options include rhodium-plating for a bright, silvery look, traditional blued steel, or gilt and rose gold finishes for the bi-material versions, ensuring a harmonious look across the entire watch face.
The commitment to refined design extends to the watch's wearing options. The stainless-steel bracelet has been re-engineered with new, shorter links that feature a half-moon domed profile. This design not only integrates more smoothly with the curves of the case but also enhances wearing comfort by allowing the bracelet to conform more closely to the wrist. The result is a unified and fluid silhouette from case to clasp.
In addition to the steel bracelet, the collection offers a selection of premium alligator leather straps. Available in sophisticated blue, a rich burgundy, or a classic red, these straps provide a softer, more intimate connection to the wearer. The blue alligator strap, in particular, is offered in a special "pearly celestial blue" to perfectly complement the flagship sapphire model, creating a cohesive and stunning visual statement that flows from the bezel all the way around the wrist.
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The new PrimaLuna line is further diversified by the inclusion of several distinct references. For those who prefer the warmth of mixed metals, bi-material models combine stainless steel with 18-karat rose gold or yellow gold caps on the bezel and links of the bracelet, with a matching solid gold crown. These versions feature the sunray silver dial with black Roman numerals and gilt or rose gold hands, creating a classic two-tone appearance that has an enduring appeal.
Another notable variation is a stainless-steel model that features a bezel fully set with 58 Top Wesselton diamonds, totaling 0.580 carats. This piece offers a more traditional expression of luxury, pairing the brilliant sparkle of diamonds with the clean look of the sunray silver dial and blued steel hands. It provides a distinct choice for those who appreciate the fire of diamonds over the cool tones of sapphires, showcasing the versatility of the new 34mm case design.
The campaign for the new PrimaLuna collection features Longines Ambassador of Elegance, Jennifer Lawrence. The campaign's creative direction places her in a quiet, solitary moment within an empty opera house. This dreamlike setting is meant to evoke a sense of personal connection and introspection, away from the public eye. The concept suggests that the PrimaLuna is designed for these private, meaningful moments, reflecting a personal sense of style rather than a public declaration.
Jennifer Lawrence, an Academy Award-winning actress, producer, and advocate, has been a Longines ambassador since 2022. Her multifaceted career and authentic public persona align with the brand’s vision of a modern woman who possesses both strength and grace. The campaign leverages her natural presence to communicate that true sophistication is not about grand gestures, but about the quiet confidence found in moments that are uniquely one's own. As she notes, the watch possesses a classic character that allows it to transition effortlessly between different settings and occasions.
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From a technical standpoint, all models in the collection share the same core specifications. The 34 mm case has a thickness of 11.6 mm, giving it a substantial yet wearable profile. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating on both sides to minimize glare and maximize legibility. A transparent case back offers a view of the beautifully decorated L899.5 movement, and the watch is water-resistant to 3 bar, or 30 meters, providing protection against everyday splashes.
The new Longines PrimaLuna watches are being rolled out to authorized dealers and Longines boutiques worldwide. Given the wide range of models, from the classic stainless steel to the intricate bi-material and gem-set variations, pricing will vary significantly across the collection. Prospective customers are encouraged to contact their local official retailer for specific pricing information and to experience firsthand the refined details and craftsmanship of this new chapter in the PrimaLuna story.
Case: Stainless steel, 34 mm diameter, 11.6 mm thickness. Round, set with 48 sapphires (1.06 ct total) in four graded blue hues. Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating. Transparent case back. Water-resistant to 30 metres.
Movement: Exclusive Longines calibre L899.5. Self-winding mechanical. 25,200 vibrations per hour, 21 jewels. Silicon balance-spring, resistant to magnetic fields. Power reserve up to 72 hours. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, and moonphase display with calendar at 6 o’clock.
Dial: Blue mother-of-pearl. 14 Top Wesselton VS-SI diamond indexes (0.060 ct total). Rhodium-plated hands.
Strap: Blue alligator leather. Stainless-steel triple safety folding clasp with push-piece opening mechanism.
Reference Number: L8.126.0.97.2
Notes: This model marks the first time a PrimaLuna bezel has been set with sapphires. The 48 gemstones are arranged in a specific gradation of four different sizes and hues to create a twilight sky effect.
Case: Stainless steel, 34 mm diameter, 11.6 mm thickness. Bezel with 5N 18 ct rose gold cap or 2N 18 ct yellow gold cap. Crown in 5N 18 ct rose gold or 2N 18 ct yellow gold. Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating. Transparent case back. Water-resistant to 30 metres.
Movement: Exclusive Longines calibre L899.5. Self-winding mechanical. 25,200 vibrations per hour, 21 jewels. Silicon balance-spring. Power reserve up to 72 hours. Oscillating weight colored to match gold accents. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, moonphase with calendar at 6 o’clock.
Dial: Sunray silver. 11 black painted Roman numerals. Hands are polished 5N rose or polished gilt 2N.
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with 5N rose gold or 2N yellow gold cap and triple safety folding clasp; or Burgundy alligator leather strap with stainless-steel triple safety folding clasp.
Reference Number: L8.126.5.71.7, L8.126.5.79.7, L8.126.5.71.2
Notes: These bi-material models combine stainless steel with 18 ct gold elements for a two-tone appearance. The movement's oscillating weight is PVD-coated in a matching gold color.
Case: Stainless steel, 34 mm diameter, 11.6 mm thickness. Available with a polished steel bezel or a bezel set with 58 Top Wesselton IF-VVS diamonds (0.580 ct total). Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating. Transparent case back. Water-resistant to 30 metres.
Movement: Exclusive Longines calibre L899.5. Self-winding mechanical. 25,200 vibrations per hour, 21 jewels. Silicon balance-spring. Power reserve up to 72 hours. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, and moonphase display with calendar at 6 o’clock.
Dial: Options include a sunray silver dial with 11 blue painted Roman numerals, or a white mother-of-pearl dial with 14 Top Wesselton VS-SI diamond indexes (0.060 ct total). Hands are blued steel.
Strap: Options include a stainless steel bracelet with triple safety folding clasp, a blue alligator leather strap, or a red alligator leather strap.
Reference Number: L8.126.4.71.2, L8.126.4.71.6, L8.126.0.71.6, L8.126.4.87.2, L8.126.4.87.6
Notes: This is the core steel collection, offering the most versatility with options for dials, straps, and a diamond-set bezel. The automatic moonphase complication is now paired with a practical date display for the first time in the PrimaLuna collection.