In the pursuit of mechanical accuracy, few milestones carry the weight and significance of high-frequency timekeeping. It represents a dedicated push against the physical limitations of springs and gears, a quest to subdivide the second into ever-finer increments for the sake of superior stability and precision. Longines stands as a foundational pillar in this history, a brand whose identity is interwoven with the development of high-beat movements. Nearly sixty years after introducing a watch that brought this technology to the public, the brand is revisiting its legacy with the new Ultra-Chron Classic, a collection that honors a pioneering spirit with contemporary engineering and refined design.
Longines’ journey into high-frequency mechanics did not begin in the 1960s, but much earlier, at the dawn of the 20th century. The brand's expertise was forged in the demanding world of sports timing, where fractions of a second determine victory. As early as 1910, Longines secured a patent for a stopwatch capable of measuring time to an accuracy of 1/10th of a second, an instrument powered by a movement vibrating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 times per hour. This was a remarkable feat for the era, and by 1916, the company had pushed the boundary even further, achieving precision to 1/100th of a second for competitive events. This century-long dedication to precision laid the groundwork for what would become a defining chapter in the company’s history of wristwatch production.
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The brand continued its pursuit of ultimate accuracy, culminating in the 1959 development of its first high-frequency wristwatch movement, the observatory chronometer calibre 360, created specifically for the intense environment of chronometric competitions. This was a movement built not for the wrist, but for the sole purpose of proving mechanical superiority. The true breakthrough for the consumer came in 1967 with the launch of the original Ultra-Chron, a timepiece that successfully transferred this high-precision technology from the laboratory to volume production. It marked the first time that the benefits of a high-beat movement were made widely available, followed swiftly in 1968 by the Ultra-Chron Diver, the first-ever diver's watch to feature such a mechanism.
The new 2025 Longines Ultra-Chron Classic is a direct descendant of this lineage, drawing its primary inspiration from the clean, purposeful design of the 1967 original. It is not merely a nostalgic reproduction but a thoughtful reinterpretation, blending the distinct visual codes of its predecessor with the advanced materials and manufacturing capabilities of today. This new collection demonstrates how foundational design principles can be evolved to exceed modern expectations for performance and durability while remaining unequivocally faithful to the spirit of the original. It is a testament to the idea that true innovation often builds upon a foundation of proven excellence.
The stainless-steel case of the Ultra-Chron Classic is presented in two sizes, a choice that thoughtfully caters to different preferences and wrist sizes. The first is a 37 mm model, a diameter deliberately selected to honor the proportions of the original 1967 watch, which measured 35 mm. This size preserves the authentic character and vintage wearing experience, appealing to enthusiasts who appreciate historical accuracy in design. Despite its robust internal mechanics, the case maintains an impressively slim profile, measuring just 10.95 mm in thickness, ensuring it sits comfortably and discreetly on the wrist.
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For those who prefer a more contemporary presence, a 40 mm version of the case is also available. This larger size offers the same sophisticated design language and slim 10.95 mm profile but scales it up to meet modern tastes. Both case sizes feature a meticulous combination of finishes, with finely brushed surfaces on the case sides and lugs contrasting with a brightly polished bezel that frames the dial. The lugs are cleanly faceted, flowing seamlessly from the main case body, and the push-pull crown is appropriately sized with fine knurling for easy operation, signed with the classic winged hourglass logo.
Visually, the centerpiece of the Ultra-Chron Classic is its domed, silver sunray dial. This finish is executed with exceptional care, allowing the surface to catch and manipulate light in a captivating way. As the watch moves, waves of light radiate from the center, creating a sense of depth and vitality. Bisecting the dial is a subtle crosshair, a classic design element from the mid-century that adds a touch of technical precision to the overall aesthetic. This simple yet effective detail grounds the design in its historical context and enhances the dial's symmetry.
The dial is furnished with twelve applied, silver-polished indexes. These are not simple batons but are faceted, block-like markers that provide multiple surfaces for light to reflect from, ensuring legibility from various angles. The hands are a set of rhodium-plated sticks, straightforward and functional, matching the polished finish of the hour markers. Below the 12 o’clock position is the applied Longines winged hourglass emblem, and printed above 6 o’clock is the original Ultra-Chron logo—a stylized wave symbol representing the high-frequency oscillations of the movement—a direct link to its 1967 ancestor.
A particularly charming and historically faithful detail is the trapezoidal date aperture located at the 3 o’clock position. The shape of the window itself is distinctive, but Longines has gone a step further by using the vintage typeface of the original Ultra-Chron for the date wheel. This is a small but significant touch that will be deeply appreciated by collectors, as it demonstrates a commitment to authenticity that goes beyond a simple homage. This detail, combined with the other vintage cues, creates a cohesive and compelling design narrative.
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Protecting the dial is a modern box-style sapphire crystal, which mimics the look of vintage acrylic crystals but offers superior scratch resistance. The crystal features a multi-layer anti-reflective coating on both its inner and outer surfaces, which significantly reduces glare and ensures the intricate details of the sunray dial are always clearly visible. The case is fitted with a solid stainless-steel screw-down case back, which contributes to its 5 bar (50 meters) water resistance. The case back is engraved with the declaration "Chronometer officially certified" and features a large, deeply embossed Ultra-Chron logo at its center, reinforcing the special nature of the movement within.
At the heart of this revival beats the exclusive Longines calibre L836.6, a high-frequency, self-winding movement first introduced in 2022. It operates at a brisk 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz, exactly the same frequency as the movement in the original 1967 Ultra-Chron. This rapid oscillation means the seconds hand sweeps with a noticeably smoother motion and, more importantly, allows the movement to recover its stable rate much more quickly after being subjected to shocks, changes in position, or acceleration. This inherent stability guarantees a superior and more consistent level of performance during daily wear.
While the frequency is historical, the calibre L836.6 is thoroughly modern in its construction and materials. It incorporates a silicon balance spring, a key innovation in contemporary watchmaking. Silicon is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and, crucially, is unaffected by common temperature variations and magnetic fields. This single component dramatically improves the watch's precision and longevity. The movement’s resistance to magnetism is ten times greater than the benchmark set by the ISO 764 standard, providing robust protection against the magnetic fields we encounter daily from electronics. The self-winding movement also delivers a respectable power reserve of up to 52 hours.
Longines' commitment to precision with the Ultra-Chron Classic extends beyond the high standards of conventional chronometer certification. While many brands certify their uncased movements through the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), Longines subjects the entire finished watch to a different and arguably more rigorous process. Each Ultra-Chron Classic achieves its full chronometer certification from the Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève, an independent testing body represented by the TIMELAB foundation. This process is a true measure of the watch's real-world performance.
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The TIMELAB qualification process, in keeping with the ISO 3159 standard, involves a demanding 15-day testing period. During this time, the fully assembled timepiece undergoes a series of functional tests in various positions and, critically, at three different temperatures: a cold 8°C (46°F), a room temperature 23°C (73°F), and a warm 38°C (100°F). Successfully passing these trials verifies the watch's accuracy and stability under a wide range of conditions, guaranteeing its performance from a cold winter day to a warm summer afternoon.
This intense focus on certified precision is not merely a technical exercise; it is a core part of the Longines identity, directly linked to its extensive history in professional sports timekeeping. For disciplines such as alpine skiing and equestrian competitions, where Longines has served as the official timekeeper for decades, guaranteed timing accuracy is not just a feature—it is an absolute necessity. The certification of the Ultra-Chron Classic is a reflection of this professional-grade expertise being made available to the everyday wearer.
Longines’ dedication to heritage is further expressed in the design of the stainless-steel bracelet. Its intricate, multi-link structure is directly inspired by the distinctive pattern of the bracelet offered with the original 1967 model. The design features a complex interplay of alternating brushed and polished finishes across its surfaces, creating a dynamic visual texture that complements the finishing of the case. This meticulous attention to detail results in a bracelet that is not only visually interesting but also engineered for comfortable, ergonomic wear.
The bracelet is secured with a modern double-folding safety clasp that opens with a push-piece mechanism, ensuring the watch remains firmly on the wrist. Acknowledging the need for a perfect fit, Longines has also integrated a micro-adjustment system into the clasp. This practical feature allows for small, precise adjustments to be made without the need for tools, accommodating minor fluctuations in wrist size due to changes in temperature or activity. This combination of vintage-inspired aesthetics and modern functionality makes the bracelet a standout feature.
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For those who prefer a different aesthetic, the Ultra-Chron Classic is also offered with a high-quality black alligator leather strap. This option provides a more classic and slightly more formal look, enhancing the watch's versatility. The leather strap is fitted with a stainless-steel pin buckle whose design reflects the style of buckles used during the original era, once again demonstrating the brand's thorough commitment to historical details. The lug widths are 19 mm for the 37 mm case and 21 mm for the 40 mm case.
The Longines Ultra-Chron Classic is available in four references. For the 37 mm case size, the reference L2.537.4.72.2 on a black leather strap is priced at $3,900, while the reference L2.537.4.72.6 on the stainless-steel bracelet is priced at $4,000. The larger 40 mm case size follows the same pricing structure, with the reference L2.937.4.72.2 on a leather strap available for $3,900 and the reference L2.937.4.72.6 on the stainless-steel bracelet available for $4,000.
Case: Stainless steel, available in Ø 37 mm or Ø 40 mm. Thickness 10.95 mm. Sapphire crystal with multi-layer AR coating on both sides. Water-resistance to 5 bar (50 meters). Lug distance 19 mm for 37 mm case and 21 mm for 40 mm case.
Movement: Exclusive Longines calibre L836.6, self-winding mechanical. High-frequency at 36,000 vph (5 Hz). Power reserve up to 52 hours. Silicon balance-spring.
Dial: Domed sunray silver with 12 applied silver-polished indexes. Rhodium-plated hands. Trapezoidal date aperture at 3 o’clock.
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with double safety folding clasp and micro-adjustment, or a black alligator leather strap with a steel pin-buckle.
Price: $3,900 (Leather Strap), $4,000 (Stainless Steel Bracelet)
Reference Number: L2.537.4.72.2 (37mm Leather), L2.537.4.72.6 (37mm Bracelet), L2.937.4.72.2 (40mm Leather), L2.937.4.72.6 (40mm Bracelet)
Notes: The movement is a high-frequency 5 Hz calibre, honoring the original 1967 Ultra-Chron. The entire assembled watch is chronometer-certified by TIMELAB, which includes a rigorous 15-day testing period at three different temperatures.