With a history spanning an entire century, Laco has firmly established its identity in the world of watchmaking, particularly through its deep roots in aviation. The brand, founded in 1925, is approaching its centennial, a milestone that brings with it a reflection on heritage and a vision for the future. Laco's reputation was forged in the 1940s as one of the few original manufacturers of the "Beobachtungsuhren," or observation watches, for German pilots. These were massive 55-millimeter instruments developed to exacting military specifications, where legibility and precision were matters of survival. This legacy of functional, robust, and clear design remains a core part of the brand's DNA, but Laco has consistently proven it is not a company content to simply live in its past.
This brings us to the introduction of the new Laco Köln series. This new line of watches demonstrates the brand's ongoing evolution, presenting a timepiece that respects its historical pilot watch origins while embracing a decidedly modern and sporting spirit. The name itself, "Köln," refers to the German city of Cologne, a place known for its energy, diversity, and openness. These are qualities that Laco has intentionally infused into the watch's design. The Köln is not a strict recreation of a historical model but rather a translation of that classic pilot watch ethos for the contemporary world, resulting in a watch that feels both familiar and entirely new.
Courtesy of Laco
The foundation of the Köln series is its newly proportioned case. Laco has introduced a 41-millimeter diameter for this model, a size that has been thoughtfully chosen. It sits perfectly in the modern sweet spot, bridging the gap between the more traditional 39mm cases and the larger 42mm and above models. This 41mm size provides a balanced, substantial presence on the wrist that will suit a wide variety of wearers, making it Laco's first true unisex offering in the pilot watch category. The lug-to-lug dimension is 49.5 millimeters, ensuring that while the watch has presence, it remains wearable and avoids significant overhang on most wrists.
One of the most immediate and defining features of the case is the placement of the crown. Instead of the traditional 3 o'clock position, Laco has subtly shifted the screw-down crown to 4 o'clock. This is a deliberate ergonomic decision. By moving the crown, the watch eliminates the common issue of it digging into the back of the wearer's hand during active use or simple flexing of the wrist. This small change dramatically enhances the overall wearing comfort and signals the Köln's modern, user-focused design spirit. It's a functional upgrade that also provides a distinct, contemporary visual asymmetry.
Laco offers the Köln in two different case finishes, which in turn define the three variations of the watch. The first finish, seen on the standard Köln and the Köln MB, is a classic brushed stainless steel. This bright, clean finish gives the watch a fresh and modern appearance. The brushing is executed precisely, catching the light in a linear way that highlights the case's clean lines and solid construction. This finish is versatile, pairing just as easily with the technical Fibertech strap as it does with the full stainless steel bracelet, allowing it to be dressed up or down.
The second finish option is reserved for the "Köln Grau" model. This version features a dark sandblasted stainless steel case. This finish is non-reflective, creating a matte, utilitarian grey appearance that strongly recalls the look of Laco's original, purpose-built pilot watches. The sandblasting process gives the surface a fine, granular texture that not only reduces all glare, enhancing legibility, but also heightens the watch's functional tool-watch character. This dark, serious finish is perfect for someone who leans into the military and aviation heritage of the brand.
Courtesy of Laco
Perhaps the most significant departure from traditional pilot watch design is the Köln's bezel. The watch is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel, a hallmark feature almost universally associated with diver's watches. Laco has integrated this element with a ceramic insert, a premium material prized for its deep color and extreme scratch resistance. The bezel features a fully lumed 60-minute scale, with clear markings and a prominent triangle at the 12 o'clock position. This "detail with depth" subtly opens the watch's design to the world of sporty dive watches, creating a captivating and capable hybrid that blends classic cockpit aesthetics with modern aquatic sportiness.
The dial of the Köln is pure, unfiltered Laco. It follows the iconic Type A layout, which is celebrated for its absolute clarity and function. The matte black dial provides a high-contrast backdrop for the large, lumed Arabic numerals counting from one to eleven. At the 12 o'clock position sits the traditional orientation triangle with two dots, a key feature that allowed aviators to find the "12" position instantly in dark cockpits. The dial text is minimal, with only the Laco logo and the "MADE IN GERMANY" text at the 6 o'clock position, letting the functional markers dominate.
Laco deliberately chose to omit the Type B dial variant for this series. The Type B, with its large outer minute track and smaller inner hour circle, is another historically significant layout, but its inclusion here would have compromised the clean, focused design language Laco was aiming for. By sticking exclusively to the Type A dial, the Köln preserves its perfect, at-a-glance legibility and maintains a less cluttered, more modern face that complements the watch's hybrid sport-pilot nature.
A signature element of Laco's pilot watches for over 80 years has been the use of thermally blued hands, and the Köln proudly carries on this tradition. The sword-style hour and minute hands, along with the slender seconds hand, are all heat-treated to achieve a deep, iridescent blue. In low light, they can appear almost black, but when the light catches them, they flash with a vibrant blue that provides a striking contrast against the matte black dial. This is not a coating, but a traditional tempering process that adds a touch of fine watchmaking craft to the otherwise utilitarian dial.
Courtesy of Laco
For legibility in all conditions, the Köln is generously treated with Superluminova C1. This luminous compound is applied to the dial's numerals and indices, the hour and minute hands, and all the markers on the ceramic bezel. Superluminova C1 is known for its bright white appearance in daylight, which matches the clean white printing on the dial, and its bright, reliable glow in the dark. This comprehensive application ensures that whether the wearer is in a dark cockpit or checking the time at night, the watch remains perfectly legible.
Protecting the dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal. The domed shape distorts the dial less at an angle than a flat crystal and adds a bit of vintage character. Sapphire is, of course, the industry standard for high-end watches due to its near-total scratch resistance. The crystal comes standard with an anti-reflective coating on the underside, which is crucial for preventing glare. For those who demand maximum clarity, Laco also offers an optional upgrade to a double-sided anti-reflective coating, which makes the crystal seem to disappear.
Through the exhibition case back, also made of sapphire crystal, the mechanical heart of the watch is visible. The Köln is powered by the Laco 200 automatic movement, which is based on the proven and reliable Swiss-made Sellita SW200 caliber. This movement is a well-regarded workhorse, appreciated for its robust construction, ease of service, and solid performance. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and includes a second-hand stop function (hacking) for precise time-setting.
The Laco 200 movement comes standard in the Elaboré grade. This is a step up from the base "Standard" grade of the Sellita SW200, offering better adjustment and components. For the enthusiast who desires a higher level of performance, Laco offers an optional upgrade to the Top grade. A Top grade movement is adjusted in five positions and often uses higher-spec components, resulting in enhanced accuracy and more stable timekeeping across various conditions. This upgrade path also includes options for decorative finishing, adding a layer of visual refinement to the mechanical heart.
The sporting intentions of the Köln are not just visual; they are backed by robust specifications. The watch features a water-resistance rating of 20 ATM, which is equivalent to 200 meters. This is a significant rating that makes the watch perfectly suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and recreational diving. This capability is secured by the aforementioned screw-down crown, which, combined with the solid case back (also screw-down), ensures the watch's internals are protected from water ingress. The case itself has a height of just 12.0 millimeters, a relatively slim profile for a 200-meter sports watch that allows it to slide under a cuff.
Courtesy of Laco
Laco has paired the Köln series with two new strap options that underscore its versatile character. The first is an innovative Fibertech strap, which comes standard on the Köln and Köln Grau models. This black, water-resistant material has a technical, textured appearance that is both sporty and durable. It is comfortable on the wrist and perfectly complements the watch's 20 ATM water resistance, making it an ideal choice for active or wet use. The standard Köln pairs this with a stainless steel buckle, while the Köln Grau features a buckle that is dark sandblasted to perfectly match its case.
The second option is a solid stainless steel bracelet, which comes on the Köln MB model. This three-link bracelet features the same fine brushing as the case, creating a seamless and integrated look. It gives the watch a significant amount of heft, bringing the total weight to 173 grams compared to the 88 grams of the Fibertech-equipped models. The bracelet fastens with a secure folding clasp that includes a safety clip, ensuring it stays firmly on the wrist. This option transforms the Köln into a substantial, all-steel sports watch.
This results in three distinct models. The first is the Laco Köln, article number 862191. This model features the bright, brushed stainless steel case and is paired with the black, water-resistant Fibertech strap. It represents the baseline of the new series, perfectly blending the modern and the technical.
The second model is the Laco Köln MB, article number 862191.MB. This watch uses the same brushed stainless steel case but is equipped with the solid stainless steel bracelet. This is the heaviest and most robust-feeling version of the three, a true steel sports watch with pilot's watch DNA.
The third and most distinct model is the Laco Köln Grau, article number 862192. This version is defined by its dark sandblasted stainless steel case, which gives it a stealthy, non-reflective tool-watch appearance. It is paired exclusively with the black Fibertech strap, which features a color-matched dark sandblasted buckle to complete its tactical, modern aesthetic.
Courtesy of Laco
With the Köln, Laco has successfully created a watch that defies easy categorization. It is a true pilot's watch at its core, with the indisputable legibility and heritage of the Type A dial. However, it is also a modern sports watch, with its 200-meter water resistance, screw-down crown, and rotating ceramic bezel. This versatility makes it a timepiece that is equally at home in the cockpit, at the office desk, or on a weekend adventure.
The three models are available for purchase now. The Laco Köln (article 862191) on the Fibertech strap is priced at € 1.190,00. The Laco Köln MB (article 862191.MB) on the stainless steel bracelet is priced at € 1.240,00. The Laco Köln Grau (article 862192) with the dark sandblasted case is priced at € 1.270,00. Options such as the Top grade movement or the double-sided anti-reflective coating are available as upgrades.
Köln GrauCase: Dark sandblasted stainless steel. 41.0 mm diameter, 12.0 mm height, 49.5 mm lug-to-lug, 20 mm lug width. Double domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, sapphire display back. Unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with Superluminova C1. Screw-down crown at 4 o'clock. Water resistant to 20 ATM.
Movement: Automatic movement Laco 200 (base Sellita SW 200, Elaboré grade). Second hand stop. Optional Top grade upgrade.
Dial: Black mat. Type A layout. Indexes with luminous material Superluminova C1. Thermical blued steel hands filled with Superluminova C1.
Strap: Black, water-resistant Fibertech strap. Dark sandblasted stainless steel buckle. 20 mm lug width.
Price: € 1.270,00
Reference Number: 862192
Notes: This is the "Köln Grau" model, distinguished by its dark sandblasted case finish. 88 g weight (incl. strap).
Köln MBCase: Brushed stainless steel. 41.0 mm diameter, 12.0 mm height, 49.5 mm lug-to-lug, 20 mm lug width. Double domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, sapphire display back. Unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with Superluminova C1. Screw-down crown at 4 o'clock. Water resistant to 20 ATM.
Movement: Automatic movement Laco 200 (base Sellita SW 200, Elaboré grade). Second hand stop. Optional Top grade upgrade.
Dial: Black mat. Type A layout. Indexes with luminous material Superluminova C1. Thermical blued steel hands filled with Superluminova C1.
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet. Folding clasp with safety clip. 20 mm lug width.
Price: € 1.240,00
Reference Number: 862191.MB
Notes: This is the "Köln MB" model, distinguished by its full stainless steel bracelet. 173 g weight (incl. strap).
KölnCase: Brushed stainless steel. 41.0 mm diameter, 12.0 mm height, 49.5 mm lug-to-lug, 20 mm lug width. Double domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, sapphire display back. Unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with Superluminova C1. Screw-down crown at 4 o'clock. Water resistant to 20 ATM.
Movement: Automatic movement Laco 200 (base Sellita SW 200, Elaboré grade). Second hand stop. Optional Top grade upgrade.
Dial: Black mat. Type A layout. Indexes with luminous material Superluminova C1. Thermical blued steel hands filled with Superluminova C1.
Strap: Black, water-resistant Fibertech strap. Stainless steel buckle. 20 mm lug width.
Price: € 1.190,00
Reference Number: 862191
Notes: This is the standard "Köln" model, featuring the brushed case and Fibertech strap. 88 g weight (incl. strap).