German watch manufacturer Laco has introduced two new models that refine a popular design, offering it in a more compact and widely wearable format. The Augsburg Grün 39 and Aachen Grün 39 build upon the success of a previously released 42 mm edition, which sold out completely, indicating strong interest in this particular aesthetic. These new timepieces are presented in a 39 mm case size and are each strictly limited to a production run of just 250 pieces, positioning them as exclusive items for enthusiasts and collectors. They represent a continuation of Laco’s series of colorful, limited editions that bring a contemporary feel to classic watch archetypes.
The history of Laco is deeply intertwined with the evolution of functional, purpose-built timepieces in Germany. Founded in 1925 in Pforzheim, a city renowned for its jewelry and watchmaking industries, the company quickly established a reputation for precision and quality. The name Laco is an abbreviation of Lacher & Co., and from its inception, the firm was dedicated to the craft of mechanical watchmaking. This commitment to quality and craftsmanship laid the groundwork for the brand’s most significant historical contribution, which would come during a period of immense global conflict and technological advancement.
Courtesy of Laco
In the 1940s, Laco was one of only a handful of companies selected to produce "Beobachtungsuhren," or observation watches, for the German air force. These were not ordinary wristwatches; they were massive 55 mm instruments designed to meet stringent military specifications. Worn over the sleeve of a flight jacket, they were essential navigational tools for pilots, requiring absolute precision and immediate legibility under demanding conditions. This historical footnote is central to Laco's identity, and the DNA of these original Flieger, or pilot's watches, continues to be the bedrock of the brand’s most recognizable designs.
This rich heritage informs Laco's modern-day philosophy, which skillfully bridges the past with the present. The company does not simply create replicas of its historical models but rather reinterprets them for a contemporary audience. The core principles of functionality, durability, and clarity remain paramount. Every Laco watch proudly bears the "Made in Germany" mark, a testament to its continued manufacturing presence in Pforzheim. The current collection is diverse, featuring classic pilot watches alongside rugged tool watches and chronographs, with many models offering a degree of individual configuration that allows customers to personalize their timepiece.
At the center of these new limited editions is the dark green dial, a color choice that is both energetic and stylistically versatile. The green is deep and matte in its finish, avoiding any overt flashiness in favor of a rich, forest-like hue. This particular shade gives the watches a fresh and modern character while remaining grounded in the utilitarian aesthetic of their predecessors. It is a color that pairs exceptionally well with the brushed steel of the case and the neutral tone of the strap, creating a cohesive and balanced visual presentation that feels both sporty and sophisticated.
The Augsburg Grün 39 showcases the purist dial layout known as Baumuster A, or Type A. This design prioritizes immediate and intuitive reading of the time. It features a clean, uncluttered face with large, luminous Arabic numerals for the hours, from one to eleven. The traditional minute track runs along the outer edge of the dial. In place of the number twelve is a distinctive triangle with two dots, a historical feature designed to help pilots orient the dial instantly, even in the dark or under stress. The Type A dial is the original pilot watch configuration, valued for its straightforward simplicity and effectiveness.
Courtesy of Laco
In contrast, the Aachen Grün 39 utilizes the Baumuster B, or Type B, dial. This layout presents a more technical and instrument-like appearance. Here, the primary visual focus is on the minutes, which are displayed in large Arabic numerals at five-minute intervals along the outer perimeter of the dial. The hours are relegated to a smaller, secondary ring at the center of the dial. This design originated from the specific needs of aerial navigators, for whom tracking minutes and seconds with precision was often more critical than knowing the exact hour during flight calculations. The Type B dial offers a distinct, functional character that appeals to those who appreciate its historical purpose.
Beyond the two distinct layouts, the dials share several key attributes that underscore their quality and functional design. The numerals, indices, and the signature triangle are printed in a crisp, bright white that provides a high contrast against the dark green background. For visibility in low-light conditions, these elements, along with the hands, are coated with Superluminova C1. This phosphorescent material absorbs light and then glows brightly in the dark, ensuring the time can be read clearly at dusk or during the night. The "Made in Germany" inscription is discreetly placed at the six o'clock position, affirming the watch's origin.
The decision to house these watches in a 39 mm stainless steel case is a significant one. This dimension is often considered a "sweet spot" in modern watch design, offering a substantial presence on the wrist without the bulk of larger models. It makes the watches suitable for a broader range of wrist sizes and personal preferences, aligning with a market trend that favors more classically proportioned timepieces. The reduced size enhances the watches' versatility, allowing them to function equally well as a daily wearer or a more specialized piece in a collection.
The case itself is a study in contrasting finishes that add visual interest and a sense of refinement. The primary surfaces of the case, including the sides and the top of the lugs, feature a fine satin-brushed finish. This non-reflective texture is practical and reinforces the watch's tool-like heritage. In a departure from pure utility, the bezel surrounding the sapphire crystal is brightly polished. This polished surface catches the light, framing the dial and providing a touch of visual pop that elevates the overall design beyond a simple tool watch.
Courtesy of Laco
Examining the case specifications reveals a thoughtfully designed geometry. While the diameter is 39 mm, the lug-to-lug distance—the measurement from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom ones—is a contained 46.5 mm. This relatively short length is crucial for wearability, as it allows the watch to sit comfortably centered on the wrist, minimizing the chance of lug overhang even on more slender arms. The case height of 11.5 mm is also quite moderate, enabling the watch to slip easily under a shirt cuff.
A key feature drawn directly from historical observation watches is the large, distinctive crown. Its shape, often described as an onion or diamond crown, is deeply grooved to provide a secure grip. This design element is a direct nod to the past, when pilots wearing thick leather gloves needed to be able to operate the crown of their watch easily. Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal, a premium material valued in watchmaking for its exceptional scratch resistance, ensuring the face remains clear and unmarred through daily wear.
The handset chosen for both models is the classic sword-style, a shape synonymous with Flieger watches. The hands are framed in a polished silver finish that harmonizes with the polished bezel and provides a bright, reflective outline against the matte green dial. This framing enhances legibility by making the hands stand out clearly. Like the dial markings, the hands are generously filled with Superluminova C1, ensuring that the time can be read at a quick glance regardless of the lighting conditions.
Powering these timepieces is the automatic Laco 2S movement, which is based on the proven Miyota 82S0 caliber. This is a reliable workhorse movement known for its durability. As an automatic caliber, it winds itself using the natural motion of the wearer's arm, eliminating the need for daily manual winding or batteries. The movement also includes a hacking seconds function, which means the second hand stops when the crown is pulled out to the time-setting position. This feature allows for precise synchronization with a reference time source. The standard power reserve is 42 hours.
Courtesy of Laco
For those who wish to see the mechanical engine at work, the watches are fitted with a generous sapphire crystal exhibition case back. This transparent window offers a clear view of the movement's oscillating rotor and balance wheel. The rotor is customized with engravings for the Laco brand, adding a touch of decoration to the otherwise industrial mechanism. This feature allows owners to appreciate the intricate craftsmanship that makes a mechanical watch function, fostering a deeper connection to the timepiece.
Laco also offers an appealing upgrade option for enthusiasts seeking a more advanced movement. For an additional cost, buyers can opt for the Laco 31 caliber, which is based on the Miyota 8315. This upgraded movement provides two significant advantages. First, it boasts an extended power reserve of over 60 hours, meaning the watch can be taken off on a Friday evening and will still be running on Monday morning. Second, it features thermally blued screws, a decorative touch traditionally associated with higher-end watchmaking that adds a flash of color to the movement's architecture.
Completing the aesthetic package is a stone-grey calfskin leather strap. This color choice is a departure from the typical black or brown straps found on many pilot watches and lends the watch a distinctly modern, urban feel. The grey hue acts as a perfect neutral counterpoint to the deep green of the dial and the cool tone of the stainless steel case. The leather itself is described as having a vintage style, suggesting a soft, supple texture that will be comfortable on the wrist from the first wear.
A subtle but critical design detail is found in the stitching on the strap. Near the lugs where the strap attaches to the case, the grey thread is replaced by a single green stitch on each side. This small accent perfectly matches the color of the dial, tying the entire watch together into a single, cohesive design statement. It demonstrates a thoughtful attention to detail. The strap has a lug width of 18 mm, a common size that allows for easy customization with other straps if the owner chooses.
Courtesy of Laco
The limited nature of these watches is a key part of their appeal. With a worldwide production of only 250 examples for the Augsburg Grün 39 and 250 for the Aachen Grün 39, ownership is reserved for a select few. To underscore this exclusivity, each watch features its individual limited edition number engraved on the case back, in the format "XXX / 250". This marking certifies the watch's place within the limited series and makes each piece unique. The watches are delivered in a grey gift box with a zipper closure.
The Laco Augsburg Grün 39 and Aachen Grün 39 are available for purchase at a retail price of $540 USD. They can be acquired directly from the official Laco website or through the company's global network of authorized retailers. These models offer a compelling combination of authentic German watchmaking heritage, a contemporary and attractive color scheme, and a versatile 39 mm case size that caters to modern tastes. The strict limitation to 250 pieces per model further enhances their desirability, making them not just functional timepieces but also special additions to any collection.
Case: Stainless steel; 39.0 mm diameter, 11.5 mm height, 46.5 mm lug to lug; 18.0 mm lug width; Sapphire crystal front and case back; Water resistant to 5 ATM.
Movement: Automatic Laco 2S (base Miyota 82S0) with hacking seconds; Optional upgrade to Laco 31 (base Miyota 8315) with 60+ hour power reserve.
Dial: Green with Superluminova C1 on numerals, indices, and hands; Available in two styles: Augsburg Grün 39 (Type A) and Aachen Grün 39 (Type B).
Strap: Grey vintage-style leather strap with green contrast stitching; 18.0 mm width; Fits arm circumference of 14.5 - 19.5 cm.
Price: US $540.00
Notes: Strictly limited to 250 pieces worldwide for each model. The case back is engraved with the individual serial number.