Reaching the century mark is a rare achievement in any industry, but in the realm of watchmaking, it signifies a resilience and dedication to craft that few manufacturers ever truly attain. Laco, a brand largely defined in the public consciousness by its austere and massive pilot watches from the 1940s, has spent the last few years systematically counting down to its one-hundredth anniversary through a series of calculated releases known as Mission 2025. This initiative was not merely a countdown but a curation of history, with each of the previous five releases highlighting a specific pillar of the brand's archives, from maritime equipment to tactical field watches. Now, the mission concludes and the celebration begins with the arrival of the Laco Edition 100, a timepiece that deliberately pivots away from the utilitarian tool-watch aesthetic to embrace the mid-century sophistication of the 1950s.
The decision to anchor this centennial celebration in the design language of the 1950s is a fascinating narrative choice. While Laco is historically tethered to the observational B-Uhr watches of the Second World War, the post-war era represented a significant renaissance for the German manufacturing sector. The 1950s were characterized by a return to optimism, a refinement of consumer goods, and a distinct shift towards slimmer, more ornamental wristwatches. The Edition 100 captures this specific transitional moment, serving as a reminder that the brand’s catalogue is far more diverse than just oversized aviator dials. By selecting a dressier, mid-sized form factor for this milestone, the brand highlights its versatility and acknowledges a period where wristwatches transformed from strictly military instruments into essential accessories of the gentleman’s wardrobe.
Courtesy of Laco
Visually, the watch presents itself with a level of decorum and warmth that feels immediately distinct from the matte-grey bead-blasted finishes common in the brand's current lineup. The 38-millimeter stainless steel case has been treated with a gold-colored IP coating, a modern method of achieving the lustrous appearance of precious metal without the accompanying softness or prohibitive cost of solid gold. This sizing is particularly astute; at 38 millimeters, it sits right in the "Goldilocks" zone for a vintage-inspired dress watch. It is large enough to feel contemporary and substantial on a modern wrist, yet small enough to retain the dignified proportions of the era it seeks to emulate. A larger case would have disrupted the balance of the dial, while a true-to-era 34mm size might have alienated modern collectors.
The profile of the case is where the engineering really shines, quite literally. The watch measures a mere 9.8 millimeters in height, a dimension that allows it to slide effortlessly under a shirt cuff. This slenderness is a critical component of the dress watch genre, where bulk is often seen as a lack of refinement. The case flanks are gently tapered, reinforcing the slender feel, and the lugs extend with a straightforward, geometric purity that directs the eye straight to the strap. The polishing on the gold-tone surface is executed to catch the light, creating a halo effect around the wrist that feels celebratory. It is a watch designed to be seen in social settings, catching ambient light in a cocktail bar or boardroom rather than the cockpit of an aircraft.
One of the most striking features that contributes to the vintage authenticity of the Edition 100 is the double-domed sapphire crystal. It is fashioned in a "box shape," a design choice that mimics the high-rise plexiglass or acrylic crystals found on watches from the mid-20th century. Creating this shape out of sapphire is a technically demanding and expensive process, as sapphire is incredibly hard and difficult to machine into complex curves without shattering. The result, however, is worth the effort. The box shape stands proud of the bezel, adding verticality to the crystal itself rather than the case metal. This allows for interesting distortions at the extreme edges of the viewing angle, a charming characteristic that collectors often look for in retro-styled pieces. Unlike the acrylic of the past, however, this crystal is virtually scratch-proof and benefits from an anti-reflective coating on the inside, ensuring that the dial remains legible despite the complex curvature of the glass.
Courtesy of Laco
The dial layout utilizes a two-tone "tuxedo" or sector-style arrangement that is quintessentially 1950s. The center of the dial is a deep, matte black, a void that provides maximum contrast for the hands. Surrounding this dark core is a champagne-colored outer ring, creating a bullseye effect that segments the dial and adds perceived depth. This division of labor on the dial surface serves a dual purpose: it breaks up the visual mass of the black, preventing the watch from looking too stark, and it pushes the time-telling elements to the perimeter where they are easily read. The champagne tone is not a flat beige but possesses a subtle shimmer that interacts with the gold-tone case, creating a cohesive warm palette that feels organic and inviting.
Typography on a dial can make or break a heritage reinterpretation, and here the choices are deliberately restrained. The Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are applied rather than printed, giving them a three-dimensional quality that catches the light. The font used for these numerals is redolent of mid-century graphic design—slightly quirky, open, and undeniably cheerful. Between these cardinal points, the indices are recessed into the champagne ring, adding another layer of texture to the face. By mixing applied numerals with recessed markers, the dial avoids looking flat. It is a topographical map of time, with peaks and valleys that reward close inspection. The "Laco" logo at the 12 o'clock position is rendered in a raised, cursive script, a nod to the company's historical branding which adds a touch of handwritten flair to the otherwise geometric composition.
The handset chosen for the Edition 100 further emphasizes the dressy nature of the piece. The hour and minute hands are polished and treated with the same gold-colored IP coating as the case, maintaining visual continuity. They are shaped in a modified dauphine style, tapering to a sharp point that articulates the time with precision. Despite the dress watch aesthetics, functional utility has not been entirely abandoned. The hands are filled with Super-LumiNova C3, a high-grade luminescent material that appears off-white or light green in daylight but glows brightly in the dark. This is a concession to modern practicality; while a strict 1950s dress watch might have lacked lume entirely, the modern wearer expects to be able to read their timepiece in a dim theater or restaurant. The inclusion of lume dots on the minute track further aids in this low-light legibility without cluttering the clean design.
Courtesy of Laco
Flipping the watch over reveals a detail that might surprise those expecting a exhibition case back. The Edition 100 features a solid steel case back, but with a twist—it is not gold-coated like the rest of the case. This two-tone effect between the gold case body and the silver-toned steel back is a delightful quirk often found in vintage gold-plated watches, where the case back was left as bare steel to prevent wear against the skin and to save on plating costs. By replicating this detail, Laco demonstrates a deep understanding of the nuances of vintage collecting. The back is engraved with the company's historical "Sun" logo, a radiant emblem used during the 1950s and 60s, alongside the individual limitation number of the watch. This solid back also contributes to the watch's impressive 5 ATM water resistance, a robust rating for a dress piece that ensures it can handle splashes and rain without anxiety.
Powering this centennial tribute is the Laco 300 movement, which is based on the Swiss-made Sellita SW300-1. The choice of the SW300 over the more common SW200 is significant. The SW300 is a thinner, more refined caliber, known for its reliability and smoother winding action. Its slender architecture is the primary reason the watch is able to achieve its sub-10-millimeter thickness. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 56 hours. This extended power reserve—spanning more than two days—means the watch can be taken off on a Friday evening and picked up on Sunday morning without needing to be reset. While the movement is hidden behind the solid case back, the knowledge that a "Top" grade or highly refined Swiss engine resides within adds to the ownership satisfaction. It features a stop-second function, allowing for precise synchronization of the time, a feature that aligns with Laco’s history of precision timekeeping.
The strap selection for the Edition 100 is a masterclass in material pairing. Laco has opted for a black Shell Cordovan leather strap. For the uninitiated, Shell Cordovan is not standard leather; it is a connective tissue found in the rump of a horse, prized for its non-creasing durability, dense fiber structure, and ability to develop a unique patina over decades. Unlike calfskin, which can crack or wrinkle, Shell Cordovan rolls smoothly and maintains a lustrous, waxy shine. The choice of black leather provides a formal anchor to the gold and champagne tones of the watch head, creating a tuxedo-like appearance. The strap is stitched with tone-on-tone black thread, keeping the look formal, and is secured with a buckle featuring the gold-colored IP coating and the Laco logo, ensuring the hardware matches perfectly around the wrist.
Wearing the Edition 100 offers a very different experience from the typical substantial steel sports watch. With a total weight of only 49 grams including the strap, it is whisper-light on the wrist. This lightness, combined with the modest 44-millimeter lug-to-lug length, makes it an exceptionally comfortable daily companion. It disappears under a sleeve until it is needed, avoiding the "doorframe magnet" status of taller dive watches. The almost invisible bezel implies that the dial opening is quite large relative to the case size, giving the watch a presence that belies its 38mm diameter. It wears slightly larger than the numbers suggest, dominating the wrist with that expansive black and champagne dial while physically taking up very little volume.
Courtesy of Laco
The crown of the watch offers another small "Easter egg" for the owner. It features a raised "100" in relief, a subtle nod to the anniversary that is only visible to the wearer when adjusting the time. This kind of discreet branding is preferable to having "100 Years" plastered across the dial, maintaining the integrity of the vintage design while acknowledging the special occasion. The crown itself is fluted for grip but proportioned correctly for the case—not an oversized onion crown like on a pilot watch, but a neat, flat cylinder that hugs the case side.
In terms of market positioning, this release is a confident statement. Laco is effectively saying that while they are proud of their military heritage, they are also a complete manufacture capable of executing refined, formal designs. The Edition 100 does not try to be a trend-chaser. It ignores the current hype for integrated bracelets or Tiffany-blue dials in favor of a look that has already stood the test of time for seven decades. It speaks to a collector who appreciates the mid-century era's focus on proportion and legibility, rather than the modern obsession with spec-sheet overkill.
The concept of "Mission 2025" has been a journey of rediscovery for the brand's fanbase. By saving this model for last, Laco effectively books the celebration with something unexpected. If the series had ended with yet another Flieger, it might have felt repetitive. Ending with a dress watch that recalls the economic miracle of the 1950s suggests a forward-looking optimism. It implies that the next 100 years of Laco will be about variety and a broader appreciation of horological history, not just a reliance on a single iconic design from the 1940s.
The packaging for the Edition 100 reflects the limited nature of the release. The watch arrives in a high-quality gift box with a matching outer cardboard sleeve, designed to be a keepsake in itself. Inside, owners will find a limited edition pin and a certificate of authenticity, verifying the matching numbers on the case back. These accouterments are standard for high-end limited editions, but they add a layer of ceremony to the unboxing experience. For a collector, these papers and extras are vital components of the watch's provenance, ensuring that the history of the specific unit is preserved alongside the mechanical object.
Courtesy of Laco
The availability of the Edition 100 is strictly controlled, which is to be expected for a centennial flagship. As the name implies, only 100 pieces will be produced for the entire world. This is a true limited edition, not a "special edition" produced in the thousands. The scarcity ensures that spotting one in the wild will be an incredibly rare occurrence, granting the owner a sense of exclusivity. This low production number honors the "count-up" concept of the previous Mission 2025 releases, where the production numbers aligned with the years being celebrated.
Finally, we must consider the commercial positioning and value proposition of this centennial release. The Laco Edition 100 is priced at $1,760.00, a figure that becomes increasingly compelling when scrutinized against the specification sheet. When one accounts for the slender Swiss Sellita SW300 movement, the complex fabrication of the box-shaped sapphire crystal, and the inclusion of genuine Shell Cordovan leather, the watch represents a remarkable intersection of material quality and historical execution. It occupies a unique space in the current landscape of German watchmaking, offering a distinct aesthetic and build quality that often commands a significantly higher premium in the wider market. Available as of December 3, 2025, the opportunity to acquire one is expected to be fleeting given the strict limitation of just 100 examples worldwide. This timepiece is the definitive capstone to the Mission 2025 project, serving as a tangible tribute to a century of resilience. For the few collectors who manage to secure one, it offers a lasting record of a significant milestone, preserved in a design that balances technical precision with a sophisticated, golden-hour warmth.
Case: Stainless steel construction with gold-colored IP coating, 38mm diameter, 9.8mm height, 20mm lug width, 44mm lug-to-lug. Double domed box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside. Solid steel-colored case back featuring individual limitation number and engraved sun logo. Water resistant to 5 ATM. Crown features raised "100" detail.
Movement: Automatic Laco 300 caliber (base Sellita SW300-1). Features 25 jewels, second hand stop function, and three-hand display. Power reserve of approximately 56 hours. Slim profile construction.
Dial: Matte black center section with champagne-colored outer ring. Applied gold-colored numerals and recessed indices. Gold-colored minute track featuring Superluminova C3 hour dots. Polished hands with gold-colored IP coating and Superluminova C3 filling. Raised "Laco" logo at 12 o'clock.
Strap: Black Shell Cordovan leather with tone-on-tone black stitching. 20mm width. Gold-colored IP coated buckle with Laco logo. Designed for wrist circumferences between 16.0 and 21.0 cm.
Price: US $1,760.00
Reference Number: 861925
Notes: Limited to strictly 100 pieces worldwide. Serves as the concluding release for "Mission 2025" celebrating the brand's 100th anniversary. Includes limited edition pin and certificate of authenticity in matching packaging.