Hublot has consistently challenged the established norms of watchmaking, and its latest creation, the Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve 3D Carbon, serves as a potent example of this ongoing endeavor. This timepiece pushes the boundaries of both form and material science, offering a distinct interpretation of contemporary horology that moves beyond traditional circular watch designs.
The journey of
Hublot began in 1980, when it introduced a watch that paired a gold case with a rubber strap, an audacious combination at the time that sent ripples through the luxury watch industry. This event marked the birth of the "Art of Fusion," a philosophy that would become central to Hublot's identity. The brand's name, derived from the French word for "porthole," was reflected in its distinctive bezel design, often featuring exposed screws. This willingness to experiment and merge disparate materials set Hublot on a path of continuous innovation. The arrival of the Big Bang in 2005 further solidified Hublot's reputation. Its iconic design, substantial size, and layered case construction earned it critical acclaim, including the Best Design award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève that same year. The Big Bang has since evolved, but it remains a cornerstone of the brand, embodying a revolutionary mindset. Hublot's commitment to pushing horological frontiers is also evident in its development of in-house movements like the Unico, Meca-10, and various tourbillons, each adding depth to its "Art of Fusion" concept.
Courtesy of Hublot
In 2022, Hublot expanded its portfolio with the Square Bang collection, marking a significant addition to its family of shaped watches. This collection joined the established round Big Bang and the tonneau-shaped Spirit of Big Bang, introducing a powerful, geometric alternative. The Square Bang captures the essence of the Big Bang within a 42mm square case, initially presented in around twenty variations, all featuring manufacture chronograph movements. The introduction of a square case was a deliberate move, questioning the long-held convention of round watches – a convention born from the circular nature of a watch's most fundamental component, the wheel. Hublot, however, seeks to build the future of high watchmaking by not being confined by past norms.
The Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve 3D Carbon represents a new chapter for this already audacious collection. It distinguishes itself with several notable firsts: it is the inaugural Square Bang model to feature two central hands rather than a chronograph complication, the first to boast a case constructed from 3D carbon, the first to be regulated by a tourbillon, and, perhaps most intriguingly from a design perspective, the first to incorporate a movement architecture composed entirely of square and rectangular bridges. This convergence of novel features underscores Hublot's dedication to pushing the design envelope from the outside in and the inside out.
Visually, the Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve 3D Carbon makes an immediate statement. Its 42mm square case presents a bold, architectural form on the wrist. The material itself, 3D carbon, lends the watch a modern, technical appearance. The carbon fibers are woven in a visible pattern, creating a distinctive texture that shifts with the light, revealing layers and depth, almost like a high-tech woodgrain. This multi-dimensional weave is apparent across the flat surfaces and the subtle curves of the case. Six H-shaped titanium screws punctuate the bezel, a signature Hublot design cue, securing the bezel to the case and adding an industrial yet refined touch.
Courtesy of Hublot
The face of the watch is a complex landscape of mechanics, viewed through a sapphire crystal. There isn't a traditional dial in the conventional sense; instead, a sapphire crystal dial acts as a transparent stage for the intricate workings of the movement beneath. This creates an impressive sense of depth, with gears, levers, and bridges layered to form a three-dimensional mechanical sculpture. The hands, though central, almost float above this intricate assembly. The tourbillon cage, constantly rotating at the six o'clock position, is a captivating focal point, while the power reserve indicator is clearly visible on the left side of the dial area. The overall aesthetic is one of structured complexity, where every component seems purposefully placed to contribute to the geometric theme.
The case of the Square Bang Tourbillon is a testament to Hublot's mastery of advanced materials. Carbon fiber, popular in demanding fields like motor racing, is chosen for its exceptional mechanical properties. It is incredibly lightweight, yet it offers remarkable strength and resistance to torsional forces. Hublot utilizes a specific type of 3D carbon for this model, where the carbon fibers are meticulously woven on three distinct planes. This method enhances the material's structural integrity and contributes to its unique visual appeal. The composite material, formed from this fiber mesh embedded in an epoxy resin, results in a case that is both robust and surprisingly light on the wrist. The case measures 42mm on each side, with a thickness of 13.20mm, striking a balance between presence and wearability. The bezel is also crafted from this 3D Carbon Fiber, ensuring a cohesive and modern look. While visually striking, the case also provides a practical water resistance of 30 meters (or 3 ATM), suitable for everyday exposure to moisture but not for immersion. The crystal protecting the intricate dial is sapphire, treated with an anti-reflective coating to ensure clarity and reduce glare, allowing an unobstructed view of the mechanical ballet within.
Courtesy of Hublot
The dial, or rather the absence of a traditional one, is central to the watch's character. By employing a sapphire crystal dial, Hublot directs all attention to the HUB6023 movement. The "dial" is essentially the movement itself, with its uniquely shaped bridges and exposed components. The design emphasizes the square geometry that defines the watch, with bridges that are explicitly square or rectangular. These structural elements are finished with a combination of matte and satin surfaces, a subtle detail that accentuates the different depths and layers of the movement architecture. This interplay of finishes catches the light in varying ways, adding visual interest and highlighting the meticulous craftsmanship involved. The layout is thoughtfully balanced, with the winding mechanism components visible on the right, the power reserve indicator on the left, the large mainspring barrel positioned towards the top, and the tourbillon prominently displayed at the bottom.
At the heart of this timepiece beats the HUB6023 Manufacture Manual Winding Power Reserve Skeleton Tourbillon Movement. This caliber was specifically developed by Hublot's engineers and watchmakers for the Square Bang Tourbillon, representing a significant technical achievement. The movement is a complete fusion of form and function, where the aesthetic design is intrinsically linked to the mechanical requirements. It is composed of 174 components, each playing a crucial role in its operation. The defining feature of the MHUB6023 is its architecture of square and rectangular bridges, a deliberate design choice that mirrors the external shape of the watch. These black-plated bridges provide a stark, modern framework for the rhodium-plated balance and other moving parts. The movement operates at a frequency of 3Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, a standard for precision in many high-end mechanical watches. It is adorned with 25 jewels, which serve to reduce friction at critical points, enhancing the movement's longevity and performance.
The tourbillon, positioned at the 6 o’clock mark, is a highlight of the HUB6023 movement. Originally invented to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch's escapement when in a vertical position (as in a pocket watch), the tourbillon has become a symbol of horological prowess and a captivating visual spectacle. In the Square Bang Tourbillon, this complex mechanism rotates once per minute, housing the balance wheel and escapement. Hublot has equipped this tourbillon with a silicon escapement. Silicon is a material favored in modern watchmaking for its anti-magnetic properties, resistance to corrosion and wear, and its stability across a range of temperatures. These characteristics contribute to the watch's overall precision and reliability in everyday conditions. The constant motion of the tourbillon provides an animated display, drawing the eye and underscoring the watch's mechanical sophistication.
Courtesy of Hublot
A significant practical feature of the HUB6023 movement is its substantial power reserve of at least 96 hours, or four full days. This extended running time means the watch can be taken off for a few days without needing to be rewound, a convenience for those who rotate through several timepieces. The power reserve is clearly indicated on the dial side, typically located at the 9 o'clock position, with a display that counts down the remaining days and hours of autonomy. This allows the wearer to know at a glance when it's time to manually wind the movement via the crown. The large barrel, visible towards the upper portion of the movement, stores this considerable energy.
Completing the watch's integrated design is a black structured rubber strap. Rubber straps have been a Hublot hallmark since its inception, challenging traditional notions of luxury materials. For the Square Bang Tourbillon, the strap is textured with square motifs, echoing the primary geometric theme of the watch and creating a seamless visual flow from the case to the strap. This textured finish not only enhances the watch's contemporary aesthetic but also provides a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist. The strap is fastened with a black ceramic and black-plated titanium deployant buckle clasp. This combination of materials ensures durability and lightness, while the deployant mechanism offers ease of use and an additional layer of security, preventing the watch from accidentally slipping off when being put on or taken off.
Hublot’s CEO, Julien Tornare, elaborated on the design philosophy: "Until now, advances in square watches have been rather timid, usually confined to the case alone. With the Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve, we wanted to take the exercise to its logical conclusion, by designing a movement whose architecture is also fully right-angled. The bridges are straight, clean and sharp, as if to protect a movement that always beats to the rhythm of a perfect circle, that of the Tourbillon, barrel and power reserve. The fusion is complete." This statement encapsulates the ambition behind the timepiece, highlighting the holistic approach to its square design.
Courtesy of Hublot
The commitment to an "uncompromisingly square" aesthetic is evident throughout the watch. To reinforce this geometry, the main functional components of the timepiece are deliberately distributed towards the four sides of the square: winding components are accessible from the right via the crown, the power reserve indication is situated on the left, the large mainspring barrel is prominent at the top, and the tourbillon holds court at the bottom. This creates a perfect visual balance. The entire movement is skeletonized, meaning excess material has been removed from the plates and bridges, revealing the intricate workings beneath. This openwork composition results in a structure that appears both powerful and surprisingly ethereal, with its angles and straight lines seemingly suspended. The complex architecture is a showcase of ingenious design, where technical necessities meet aesthetic desires in a harmonious fusion. This results in a mechanism whose lightness is matched only by its unique character, marking it as the first watch composition of its kind developed by Hublot.
The Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve 3D Carbon, with reference number 805.QD.0170.RX, is positioned as a high-end offering within the brand's catalog. The retail price is USD 105,000. Given its specialized movement, advanced materials, and the intricate craftsmanship involved in its production, this timepiece will likely be available in limited quantities, appealing to enthusiasts who appreciate Hublot's bold design language and technical innovation. It represents a confident stride in a new direction for the Square Bang collection and for Hublot's continued exploration of shaped watches.
Case: 3D Carbon Fiber, 42 mm size, 13.20 mm thickness. Bezel also 3D Carbon Fiber with 6 H-shaped titanium screws. Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Case-back is 3D Carbon Fiber and Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance 30m or 3 ATM.
Movement: HUB6023 Manufacture Manual winding Power Reserve Skeleton Tourbillon Movement. Minimum 96 hours power reserve. Features black-plated bridges, polished Rhodium-plated Balance, Tourbillon Escapement. Frequency 3Hz (21,600 A/h), 174 components, 25 jewels.
Dial: Sapphire Crystal Dial, offering a view into the skeletonized movement.
Strap: Black Structured Rubber Straps with square motifs. Black Ceramic and Black-plated Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp.
Price: USD 105,000
Reference Number: 805.QD.0170.RX
Notes: The first Square Bang with two central hands, a 3D carbon case, a Tourbillon, and a movement (MHUB6023) containing only square bridges, specifically developed for this model. Features a 4-day power reserve.