Hublot Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang Coal Blue

Hublot has long operated as a polarizing force in the watch industry, thriving on the friction between traditional Swiss watchmaking and aggressive, modern materials. Since its inception in 1980, when the brand first dared to pair a precious gold case with a utilitarian rubber strap, the manufacturer has defined itself by the "Art of Fusion." This philosophy is not merely a marketing tagline but a structural approach to how they build timekeepers, constantly mixing ceramics, sapphire, titanium, and various alloys. With the release of the new Coal Blue collection, consisting of four distinct references across the Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang lines, the Nyon-based manufacture is shifting its palette away from the vibrant, high-saturation colors often associated with its limited editions toward something far more subdued and industrial. The new shade is a moody, desaturated tone that sits somewhere between anthracite, deep navy, and slate grey, offering a monochromatic aesthetic that feels decidedly architectural.

The specific hue chosen for this collection, dubbed "Coal Blue," represents a departure from the primary colors that have dominated recent luxury sports watch trends. Rather than a bright, summery blue, this color mimics the minerality of raw carbon or stormy skies. It is a chameleon-like shade that changes character depending on the ambient lighting, appearing almost black in low light and revealing cool, steel-blue undertones under direct sun. This creates a visual continuity across the four new models, linking the robust, chronograph-equipped titanium pieces with the smaller, diamond-set stainless steel references. The choice of this colorway suggests a focus on wearability and versatility, targeting collectors who appreciate the bold silhouette of a Big Bang but prefer a color palette that integrates more seamlessly with a daily wardrobe than a bright red or yellow ceramic might.



At the head of this new release is the Big Bang Original Unico Titanium Coal Blue, a 43mm chronograph that embodies the modern Hublot archetype. The case architecture remains true to the multi-component sandwich construction that defined the Big Bang when it launched in 2005. By utilizing titanium for the case, Hublot ensures that despite the watch's imposing visual presence, it remains lightweight on the wrist. Titanium is notoriously difficult to finish due to its hardness and tendency to gall, yet the case exhibits a sophisticated mix of finishes. The satin-brushed surfaces on the top of the lugs and bezel contrast sharply with the highly polished chamfers that run along the case flanks, highlighting the angular geometry that has made this model a staple of contemporary horology. The bezel is punctuated by the brand's signature six H-shaped titanium screws, which are functional components rather than mere decoration, anchoring the bezel to the case structure.

The dial of the 43mm Big Bang Original Unico is particularly noteworthy for its texture. Rather than a standard matte or sunray finish, Hublot has employed a stamped "Carbon Effect." This surface treatment mimics the weave of carbon fiber through a geometric pattern of alternating satin-finished and polished squares. This is not a printed pattern but a three-dimensional texture that catches the light in different ways as the wrist rotates, creating a sense of depth and movement on the dial. The indices are applied and faceted, floating above this textured background, filled with luminescent material to ensure legibility in low-light conditions. The skeletonized nature of the hands allows for a view of the underlying chronograph counters, ensuring that the measurement of elapsed time does not completely obscure the textured dial beneath.



Powering the 43mm model is the HUB1280 Unico manufacture movement, a self-winding flyback chronograph caliber that was developed entirely in-house. This movement is a significant evolution in Hublot’s technical capabilities, featuring a column-wheel mechanism that is visible from the dial side—a rare and deliberate design choice that allows the wearer to observe the engagement of the chronograph levers. The flyback function is a practical addition for those who actually use their chronograph, allowing the user to reset and restart the timing mechanism with a single push of the button at 4 o'clock, bypassing the traditional stop-reset-start sequence. With a power reserve of 72 hours, the watch can be left on a dresser over the weekend and will still be running precisely when picked up on Monday morning. The movement beats at 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, a standard frequency that offers a good balance between precision and service intervals.

Parallel to the round Big Bang is the Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Coal Blue, which translates the same aesthetic codes into a barrel-shaped, or tonneau, silhouette. Measuring 42mm in diameter, the Spirit of Big Bang wears differently than its round counterpart, sitting long on the wrist with a curved case back that hugs the forearm for better ergonomics. The titanium construction is equally critical here, keeping the mass low despite the substantial volume of the case. The Spirit of Big Bang shares the same "Carbon Effect" dial texture as the round version, maintaining the collection's visual theme. The sub-dials are arranged in a classic tri-compax layout, offering a balanced and symmetrical look that nods to traditional chronograph configurations while maintaining the aggressive, modernist casing that Hublot is known for.



The engine inside the Spirit of Big Bang is the HUB4700, a high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. This caliber operates at 5 Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, a beat rate that allows for measurement of time to the nearest 1/10th of a second. A higher frequency movement is often prized by collectors for the smooth sweep of the chronograph seconds hand and its ability to recover more quickly from shocks. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The open-worked oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire case back, is treated with an anthracite ruthenium plating that matches the dark, industrial vibe of the Coal Blue exterior. The tungsten rotor is designed with a skeletonized layout, reducing visual obstruction of the movement bridges and gears below.

Complementing the two larger titanium chronographs are two smaller references crafted in stainless steel, focused on a slightly more dressed-up aesthetic. The Big Bang One Click Coal Blue Diamonds is a 33mm time-only watch that swaps the complex chronograph functionality for a cleaner, three-hand display. The case is made of satin-finished and polished stainless steel, a material that offers a brighter, whiter luster compared to the darker grey tone of titanium. The bezel is set with 36 diamonds totaling approximately 0.76 carats. These stones are set into the steel bezel, framing the dial with a ring of brilliance that contrasts with the industrial screws. The dial on this smaller model abandons the carbon-effect texture in favor of a satin-finished sunray Coal Blue surface. This finish radiates from the center of the dial, creating subtle shifting beams of light that rotate around the face of the watch, giving it a softer, more fluid appearance than the architectural rigidity of the larger models.



The fourth watch in the collection is the Spirit of Big Bang Coal Blue Diamonds, a 32mm barrel-shaped reference also in stainless steel. Like its round counterpart, it features a diamond-set bezel, this time holding 44 diamonds weighing roughly 0.70 carats. The gem-setting on the bezel follows the curves of the tonneau shape, accentuating the unique geometry of the Spirit of Big Bang line. The dial is also a sunray-finished Coal Blue, providing a consistent visual link between the two diamond-set models. It is important to note that Hublot ensures all diamonds used meet the strict ethical standards of the Responsible Jewellery Council and the Kimberley Process, guaranteeing that the luxury of the piece does not come at an unacceptable human cost. The diamonds are graded as Top Wesselton, with outstanding clarity and cut, ensuring maximum light return.

Both of the smaller diamond-set references are powered by the HUB1120 self-winding movement. This is a reliable workhorse caliber that provides a 40-hour power reserve and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. While it lacks the chronograph complications of the larger models, it offers the convenience of a date window—positioned at 3 o'clock on the Big Bang and at 6 o'clock on the Spirit of Big Bang. The movement is visible through the sapphire case back, featuring a polished and microblasted tungsten rotor that has been skeletonized to reveal the escapement and gear train. The use of tungsten for the rotor provides the necessary mass to efficiently wind the mainspring despite the skeletonized design.

A defining feature across all four watches in this collection is the integration of Hublot’s "One-Click" strap interchangeability system. This mechanism, concealed between the lugs, allows the wearer to detach the strap with the simple press of a trapezoidal button, without the need for tools or a visit to a watchmaker. This feature acknowledges the modern consumer's desire for customization and versatility, turning the strap into a modular accessory. The watches come mounted on Coal Blue rubber straps that feature a specific structured texture. Looking closely at the strap design, it mimics the appearance of a woven fabric or mesh, adding another layer of tactile interest to the watch. Despite looking like fabric, the material retains all the sweat resistance, flexibility, and durability of high-grade natural rubber, making it ideal for daily wear in any climate.



The visual impact of the straps cannot be overstated; they bridge the gap between the watch head and the wearer, continuing the color narrative of the Coal Blue theme seamlessly around the wrist. The deployant buckles match the case materials—titanium for the chronographs and stainless steel for the diamond models—and ensure the watch remains securely fastened. The clasps are designed for comfort and security, utilizing a double-folding mechanism that sits flush against the underside of the wrist. This attention to the tactile experience of wearing the watch is consistent with Hublot’s focus on ergonomics, ensuring that even the larger 43mm and 42mm cases sit balanced and stable on the arm.

The launch of the Coal Blue collection is a testament to Hublot’s ability to iterate on its core designs without losing its identity. Since the Big Bang revolutionized the brand in 2005, winning the Best Design award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the silhouette has become one of the most recognizable shapes in the industry. The multi-layer construction of the case allows for endless experimentation with materials and colors, but this release shows that restraint can be just as effective as excess. By stripping away the vivid colors and focusing on a singular, sophisticated tone, Hublot highlights the architectural details of the case and the finishing of the materials. The interplay of the brushed titanium, the sparkling diamonds, and the textured rubber creates a symphony of greys and blues that feels modern and mature.

Furthermore, the collection reinforces the brand's vertical integration and manufacturing prowess. The presence of the Unico movement in the 43mm model is a reminder of how far Hublot has come as a manufacture since 2010, when the first Unico caliber was introduced. Designing and building a flyback chronograph movement in-house is a significant engineering challenge, requiring the coordination of hundreds of tiny components. The 354 components of the HUB1280 are assembled to precise tolerances, ensuring that the tactile feel of the pushers is crisp and the timekeeping is accurate within -2/+4 seconds per day. This dedication to mechanical integrity ensures that the watch is not just a design object but a serious piece of horological engineering.



The Spirit of Big Bang references also serve to broaden the appeal of the collection to those who might prefer a non-traditional case shape. The barrel shape has a long history in watchmaking but is often underrepresented in modern sports watches. Hublot’s interpretation is aggressive and sharp, with none of the soft curves usually found on vintage tonneau watches. The sandwich construction is adapted perfectly to this form, with the bezel screws placed strategically to emphasize the width and presence of the watch. The 42mm size is a sweet spot for this shape, offering significant wrist presence without the overhang issues that can plague longer tonneau cases.

The diamond-set models in 33mm and 32mm cater to a demographic that desires the Hublot look in a more compact package. While these pieces are smaller, they do not compromise on build quality or mechanical substance, utilizing automatic mechanical movements rather than quartz. This is a significant distinction in the market for smaller, gem-set watches, where battery-operated movements are common. Hublot’s decision to keep these mechanical speaks to a respect for the female collector or the enthusiast with smaller wrists who still values the sweeping second hand and the beating heart of a mechanical escapement. The diamonds add a layer of luxury that elevates the watch from a pure sports piece to something suitable for formal evening wear, showcasing the versatility of the Big Bang design language.

Visually, the watches present a cohesive family. The consistent use of the Coal Blue color on the dials and straps ties the disparate case shapes and materials together. The "Carbon Effect" on the larger dials gives them a technical, automotive feel, appropriate for high-performance chronographs. In contrast, the sunray finish on the smaller models softens the look, playing with light in a way that complements the sparkle of the diamonds. This differentiation allows the collection to offer varied personalities while remaining unmistakably part of the same lineage. The use of ruthenium plating on the movement bridges of the skeletonized calibers is a subtle touch that harmonizes the interior mechanics with the exterior aesthetics, a detail that might be missed at a glance but is rewarding upon closer inspection.



The industrial design language of Hublot is often described as "fusion," but in the Coal Blue collection, it feels more like integration. The disparate elements—rubber, titanium, steel, diamonds—are brought together by the unifying color scheme. The result is a series of watches that feel solid, purposeful, and distinctly contemporary. They do not rely on heritage tropes or vintage re-issues but stand firmly as products of the current moment. The visible screws on the bezel, once a radical provocation in 1980, are now an accepted standard of modern luxury sports watch design, a testament to Hublot’s influence on the broader industry.

For those interested in acquiring one of these new releases, the pricing reflects the materials and mechanical complexity of each reference. The Big Bang Original Unico Titanium Coal Blue is priced at $20,400 USD, positioning it competitively within the landscape of in-house flyback chronographs. The barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Coal Blue commands a price of $24,000 USD, reflecting the high-beat movement and complex case construction. On the gem-set side, the Big Bang One Click Coal Blue Diamonds comes in at $15,500 USD, while the Spirit of Big Bang Coal Blue Diamonds is listed at $18,000 USD. These models are available at selected Hublot points of sale and through the brand’s official online boutique, offering collectors the opportunity to experience this new chapter in Hublot’s chromatic exploration.

BIG BANG ORIGINAL UNICO TITANIUM COAL BLUE

Case: Satin-finished and polished titanium construction featuring a 43 mm diameter and 13.20 mm thickness. Equipped with a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, a bezel secured by 6 H-shaped titanium screws, and water resistance up to 100 meters.

Movement: HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture self-winding flyback chronograph movement with a column wheel. Operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 alt/h) with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, containing 354 components and 43 jewels.

Dial: Stamped satin-finished Coal Blue "Carbon Effect" dial featuring a date window at 4:30.

Strap: Coal Blue structured rubber strap fitted with a titanium deployant buckle clasp and the One-Click interchangeability system.

Price: 20,400 USD

Reference Number: 431.NX.717B.RX

Notes: Features a unique "Carbon Effect" dial texture and a flyback chronograph function that allows for instant reset and restart.



SPIRIT OF BIG BANG TITANIUM COAL BLUE

Case: Barrel-shaped satin-finished and polished titanium case measuring 42 mm in width and 14.10 mm in thickness. Includes a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and offers water resistance of 100 meters.

Movement: HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph movement oscillating at a high frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 alt/h). Provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and consists of 278 components and 31 jewels.

Dial: Stamped satin-finished Coal Blue "Carbon Effect" dial with a date window positioned at 4:30.

Strap: Coal Blue lined rubber strap paired with a titanium deployant buckle clasp.

Price: 24,000 USD

Reference Number: 642.NX.717B.RX

Notes: The high-frequency 5 Hz movement allows for chronograph precision to 1/10th of a second.



BIG BANG ONE CLICK COAL BLUE DIAMONDS

Case: Satin-finished and polished stainless steel case measuring 33 mm in diameter and 10.55 mm thick. The polished stainless steel bezel is set with 36 diamonds totaling 0.76 carats, and the case is water-resistant to 100 meters.

Movement: HUB1120 self-winding movement operating at 4 Hz (28,800 alt/h). Offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours and contains 169 components and 18 jewels.

Dial: Satin-finished Coal Blue sunray dial with a date window located at 3:00.

Strap: Coal Blue lined rubber strap secured by a stainless steel deployant buckle clasp.

Price: 15,500 USD

Reference Number: 485.SX.717B.RX.1204

Notes: A compact 33mm model featuring a diamond-set bezel and a sunray finish dial distinct from the chronograph models.



SPIRIT OF BIG BANG COAL BLUE DIAMONDS

Case: Satin-finished and polished stainless steel case with a diameter of 32 mm and thickness of 11.10 mm. The bezel is set with 44 diamonds for a total of 0.7 carats, with water resistance rated at 100 meters.

Movement: HUB1120 self-winding movement running at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 alt/h). Features a 40-hour power reserve, 169 components, and 18 jewels.

Dial: Satin-finished Coal Blue sunray dial featuring a date window at 6:00.

Strap: Coal Blue lined rubber strap fitted with a stainless steel deployant buckle clasp.

Price: 18,000 USD

Reference Number: 682.SX.717B.RX.1204

Notes: Combines the barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang silhouette with a diamond-set bezel and sunray dial finish.