Hublot has consistently demonstrated a strong affinity for Mexico, a relationship built over years of shared passion and dedicated collectors. It is fitting, then, that the brand would choose the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) in Mexico as the stage to celebrate a significant milestone: the 20th anniversary of its iconic Big Bang collection. To mark this event, Hublot has unveiled a piece that is both a celebration of its own design ethos and a direct tribute to Mexican culture, the Big Bang Unico Calavera All Black. This is not just another limited edition; it is a highly exclusive series of 100 pieces that introduces a first for the brand: a sapphire dial intricately decorated with a skull motif.
The connection between Hublot and Mexico is one the brand's leadership does not take lightly. Julien Tornare, Hublot's CEO, has emphasized the deep, lasting friendship and the exceptional loyalty of Mexican customers. The decision to celebrate the Big Bang's 20th anniversary in Mexico was described as an obvious choice. This new timepiece was conceived specifically for the brand's local clientele and its network of retailers within the country. The result is a unique, distinctive, and very limited watch that draws its creative fuel directly from the rich traditions of Mexico, a source of inspiration for Hublot for two decades.
Courtesy of Hublot
The choice of the Big Bang Unico as the canvas for this celebration is significant. The Unico movement is arguably the crown jewel of Hublot's modern manufacturing capabilities. Its development symbolizes the brand's transformation between 2005 and 2025 into a truly integrated manufacture, one with the technical prowess to bring its most ambitious and creative concepts to life. This evolution marked a disruptive and rapid shift that fundamentally altered Hublot's place in the watchmaking world. Furthermore, the "All Black" concept, which this watch fully embraces, has been one of the brand's most sought-after and collectible series since its inception, with Mexican collectors being among its most knowledgeable experts.
The Big Bang Unico Calavera All Black elevates this established friendship to a new level. The watch is presented in the 42 mm Big Bang Unico All Black case, but for the first time, it is equipped with a dial made entirely of sapphire. This transparent dial serves as the canvas for a stylized skull, or calavera, a central and potent symbol in Mexican culture. The design is a direct nod to the Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead), a globally unique cultural celebration. Hublot's interpretation translates this tradition into a timepiece that is both celebratory and technically impressive, limited to just 100 examples.
The use of a sapphire dial is a deliberate choice to create a sophisticated interplay of light and shadow, transparency and opacity. The material’s translucent nature does two things at once: it showcases the intricate calavera motif printed on its surface and simultaneously reveals the mechanical world of the Unico movement ticking just beneath it. The calavera itself is not a morbid symbol, but rather the happy and joyful representation of death as celebrated during the Day of the Dead. This watch captures that spirit, blending a dark aesthetic with a vibrant, celebratory theme.
Courtesy of Hublot
This design creates a fascinating visual tension. At first glance, the eye is captivated by the intricate, dark, and compelling skull design, which appears to float over the mechanism. This motif is composed of floral and ornamental patterns, giving it a decorative, almost festive feel despite its subject matter. Then, the gaze is drawn deeper, into the three-dimensional space of the dial. Through the clear sapphire, the inner workings of the Unico calibre are exposed. The bridges, the main plate, the gears, and the jewels are all visible beneath the skull's facade, intimately linking the design motif with the watch's mechanical life.
The visibility of the movement from the dial side is a hallmark of the Unico. Key components are proudly displayed, such as the column wheel, which can be seen at the 6 o'clock position. This feature, which controls the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph, is a sign of a high-quality chronograph construction and is a delight for mechanical enthusiasts to observe in action. To fully appreciate the intimate depths of the Unico movement, the design seems to suggest, one must look directly through the calavera itself, reinforcing the theme of life and mechanics ticking away beneath the surface.
Hublot has incorporated a special, dynamic feature into the dial of the Big Bang Unico Calavera All Black. At the 9 o'clock position, where the small seconds dial is typically found, the left eye of the skull figure is in constant rotation. This "running seconds" indicator is a playful and technical animation, symbolizing the continuous dance of life and death, the unstoppable passage of time, and the eternal turning of the wheel. It adds a sense of life and movement to the otherwise static, though complex, dial design.
Despite this artistic centerpiece, the watch remains a functional Big Bang. Readability is maintained by two large, luminous hands for the hours and minutes. The chronograph function is displayed via a 60-minute counter sub-dial at the 3 o'clock position. Also nestled at 3 o'clock is a skeletonized date window, which integrates seamlessly into the open-worked aesthetic. The entire timepiece is rendered in shades of black and grey, securing its place as a new and compelling addition to the coveted "All Black" limited-edition series, which has been a staple of the Big Bang's identity since 2006.
Courtesy of Hublot
The watch's case is constructed from micro-blasted black ceramic, measuring 42 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm in thickness. This material provides a deeply matte, non-reflective finish that is central to the "All Black" look, while also offering superior scratch resistance. The iconic bezel, also in micro-blasted and polished black ceramic, is secured by six H-shaped screws, a Hublot signature. These screws are crafted from black-plated, polished, and micro-blasted titanium, adding subtle textural contrast.
Hublot's "Art of Fusion" philosophy is evident in the mix of materials used to ensure the watch is prepared for daily life. The chronograph pushers are made from satined and micro-blasted black-plated titanium. The crown, which controls winding and setting, is made of satin-finished black-plated titanium and overmolded with black rubber for improved grip. The case back is fashioned from micro-blasted black ceramic and features a sapphire crystal window, offering an unobstructed view of the movement's reverse side, including its open-worked rotor. The watch is rated for water resistance up to 10 ATM, or 100 meters.
Powering this limited edition is the HUB1280, a manufacture calibre developed and built in-house by Hublot. This self-winding chronograph flyback movement is a modern piece of engineering, composed of 354 components and 43 jewels. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), which allows for precise timekeeping and a smooth sweep of the chronograph hand. When fully wound, the movement provides a robust power reserve of approximately 72 hours, meaning it can be set down for a full weekend and still be running on Monday.
The strap system is exclusive to this model. The primary strap is a fusion of black rubber and black calfskin. This calfskin top layer is not plain; it features an embossed skull motif that directly mirrors the calavera on the dial, creating a cohesive design language that flows from the case to the wrist. This strap is paired with a black ceramic and black-plated titanium folding clasp. The watch also includes an additional black-lined rubber strap, allowing the owner to switch to a more sporting, all-rubber option.
Courtesy of Hublot
This new watch is a direct descendant of Hublot's foundational concept. In 1980, the brand shocked the luxury watch world by placing a gold case on a simple rubber strap, an audacious combination that birthed the "Art of Fusion." This philosophy of combining disparate and often unexpected materials—traditional and high-tech—became the brand's guiding principle. The name "Hublot," French for "porthole," was inspired by the bezel design with its exposed screws.
This disruptive mindset was fully realized in 2005 with the launch of the Big Bang. Its iconic design, substantial size, and complex, layered "sandwich" case construction captured the spirit of the new millennium. The Big Bang was an immediate success, winning the Best Design prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève that same year. For the last two decades, the Big Bang has been the brand's flagship, constantly reinventing itself while staying true to its core identity. It is, for many, the first true watch icon of the 21st century.
The "Art of Fusion" is more than a marketing slogan for Hublot; it is the principle that guides every collection. The Big Bang reshapes traditional watch geometry; the Classic Fusion offers a more restrained take on the same principles; and the Exceptional Timepieces push the boundaries of materials and mechanics. This DNA is transcribed directly into the brand's in-house movements, like the Unico chronograph and the Meca-10 with its 10-day power reserve, adding another layer of mechanical meaning to the fusion concept.
The Big Bang's 20th anniversary is a celebration of this revolutionary mindset. Few timepieces have had such a transformative effect on contemporary watchmaking. Twenty years on, the Big Bang remains the primary incarnation of a manufacture that is defined by its constant push against boundaries. Through its use of exclusive materials like colored ceramics and proprietary alloys, and its development of in-house movements, the Big Bang has consistently broken with convention. It is singular in its bold aesthetic and plural in its versatility.
Courtesy of Hublot
This watch is presented in a special gift box that is also decorated with a stylized skull design on its front. This packaging is specially designed for this individually numbered anniversary piece, further enhancing its collectible nature.
Regarding availability, the Big Bang Unico Calavera All Black is a 100-piece limited edition. It is being made available exclusively in Mexico to honor the clients and partners there, before any potential worldwide release. The price for this piece is set at 26,300 USD. This model represents a focused, culturally specific expression of Hublot's core identity, blending high-tech materials, in-house mechanics, and a deep, genuine appreciation for one of its most important markets.
Case: Microblasted Black ceramic case and bezel. 42 mm diameter, 14.5 mm thickness. Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Microblasted black ceramic case back. Water resistance 10 ATM / 100 M.
Movement: Calibre HUB1280 Unico Manufacture. Self-winding chronograph flyback movement. 72-hour power reserve. Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 Vib/h). 354 components, 43 jewels.
Dial: Sapphire crystal dial with printed Calavera skull motif. Black plated satined and microblasted hands. Small seconds at 9 o'clock (as the skull's rotating left eye). 60-minute counter and skeletonized date at 3 o'clock.
Strap: Black rubber and black calfskin strap with embossed skull motif. Includes additional black lined rubber strap. Black ceramic and black-plated titanium folding clasp.
Price: 26,300 USD
Reference Number: 441.CI.1140.VR.MEX25
Notes: Limited edition of 100 pieces. Celebrates the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang. Features the first 42mm Big Bang Unico All Black with a sapphire dial, which is adorned with a skull motif.