The Hourstriker Verdict
With the new Cape Cod Mini collection from Hermès, the brand is able to take the watches iconic design and successfully scale it down. The Cape Cod was originally designed in 1991, and has since become a calling card for the brand. The collection is made up of several references in different case metals and dial colors. Of the entire collection, the slate dial model appeals the most to me.
— Peter, Editor-in-Chief
The Hermès Cape Cod collection expands this year with the introduction of a scaled-down "Mini" variant, producing new references measuring 20mm in width by 27mm in length. Originally designed in 1991 by Henri d’Origny, the Cape Cod architecture is defined by its "square within a rectangle" geometry, a shape directly derived from the Chaîne d'Ancre link created by Robert Dumas in 1938. By horizontally bisecting the anchor chain link, d’Origny established a case design featuring elongated, curved lugs that seamlessly transition into the case flanks. Shrinking this specific geometry from the standard 32mm and 29mm formats down to a 20x27mm footprint requires strict recalibration of the case wall thickness and bezel proportions to maintain structural integrity and visual symmetry.
This downscaling aligns with the current market shift favoring smaller, historically proportioned dress watches, while catering to wrists requiring shorter lug-to-lug measurements. The collection utilizes two primary case materials across the multiple references: standard 316L stainless steel and 18-karat yellow gold, the latter weighing precisely 23.041 grams. The reduction in dial real estate demands tighter tolerances for handset clearance and index application, forcing the manufacturer to refine the manufacturing techniques used for the sunburst dials and applied markers to prevent the smaller display from appearing cluttered.
Courtesy of Hermes
The Case and Dial
The 20x27mm case is executed with a high-polish finish across all flat surfaces and curved flanks, a treatment that highlights the Chaîne d'Ancre lug design by maximizing light reflection along the extended vertical edges. Two specific references—one in steel and one in yellow gold—feature diamond-set bezels, utilizing 46 individual diamonds totaling 0.262 carats. These stones are set directly into the vertical flanks of the case sides rather than the top of the bezel, requiring precise drilling into the narrow 316L or 18k gold margins. Water resistance across all seven references is rated at 3 bar (30 meters), achieved via a standard push-pull crown mechanism, which is standard specification for formal dress watches not intended for aquatic submersion. The sapphire crystals are treated with an anti-glare coating, specifically necessary here to neutralize light reflection off the highly polished, metallic sunburst dials beneath them. The transition from the flat crystal to the curved, stepped lugs requires tight gasket seating to maintain the 3 bar rating despite the non-traditional rectangular aperture.
The dials employ a deep sunburst finishing technique, known as soleillage, radiating outward from the central pinion to create a dynamic, light-catching surface that shifts in saturation depending on the viewing angle. Six distinct dial variations are distributed among the references: Rouge H (a deep burgundy red), slate-toned (Ardoise), Étoupe (taupe), gold (doré), and silvered. The indices vary by reference, with several models utilizing raised Arabic numerals executed in the proprietary Hermès typography characterized by its distinct horizontal orientation of the numerals and pronounced serifs. Other references opt for "pearled" hour markers—small, polished cabochons—applied specifically at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions, leaving the rest of the dial entirely negative. The baton-type hands are strictly two-dimensional without luminescent material, finished in either rhodium plating for the steel models or gilding for the gold models to prevent oxidation and ensure stark contrast against the colored dial bases. The lack of a running seconds hand or a date window maintains the strict symmetry of the square inner dial, prioritizing the fundamental geometry over secondary horological complications.
Courtesy of Hermes
The Movement
Powering all seven references in the Cape Cod Mini collection is a Swiss-manufactured quartz caliber. The use of a solid-state quartz oscillator operating at the standard 32,768 Hz frequency is highly practical for a case measuring only 20x27mm. Implementing a mechanical gear train and mainspring barrel within these dimensions would require a significant increase in the overall thickness of the watch, compromising the sleek, cuff-like profile that defines the Cape Cod's wearability. The quartz caliber allows for a flat case back and a slim mid-case, keeping the center of gravity low against the wrist.
The movement architecture is stripped down to its most basic timekeeping functions, driving only the central hours and minutes hands. By omitting the running seconds hand, Hermès removes the visible, one-second deadbeat tick characteristic of standard analog quartz movements. This design choice aligns the visual output of the watch with traditional, time-only mechanical dress pieces where the lack of a seconds hand creates a static, highly formal dial layout. The crown interfaces directly with the stepper motor to adjust the hour and minute gear train, with no secondary detent needed for a quick-set date mechanism. Because quartz movements are inherently highly resistant to physical shocks and do not suffer from isochronism errors induced by gravity, this caliber ensures consistent accuracy without the need for regular winding or the frequent servicing required by micro-mechanical escapements.
Courtesy of Hermes
The Strap
The straps are manufactured in the Hermès Horloger workshops using three distinct leather types: Swift calfskin, Chamkilight goatskin, and Athena calfskin. Swift calfskin, used for the Rouge H, Ardoise, and Étoupe models, features a micro-grained, semi-matte surface that absorbs dye heavily, resulting in deep, uniform color saturation. The gold models utilize Doré Chamkilight goatskin, which presents a more pronounced, textured grain with a subtle metallic sheen, while the diamond-set steel models employ Gris Perle Athena calfskin. The straps are available in standard single tour and the signature double tour configuration, securing via a tang buckle matching the case material, with the yellow gold pin buckle weighing exactly 2.5 grams.
Courtesy of Hermes
Pricing and Availability
The Hermès Cape Cod Mini collection is scheduled for release in mid-April. The watches will be distributed through global Hermès boutique locations and authorized retail channels. The models will also be available for direct purchase through the brand's official e-commerce platform at Hermes.com. Specific pricing structures will vary based on the selected case material (316L stainless steel versus 18k yellow gold) and the presence of factory diamond setting on the bezel flanks.
Courtesy of Hermes
Technical Specifications
Case: 27mm x 20mm, available in 316L stainless steel or 18k yellow gold (23.041 gr), select models set with 46 diamonds (0.262 ct), anti-glare sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 3 bar.
Movement: Swiss-crafted Quartz caliber, hours and minutes functions only.
Dial: Sunburst finish available in Rouge H, slate-toned, Étoupe, gold, or silvered; featuring either raised Arabic numerals, pearled hour markers, or blank sectors with gilded or rhodium-plated baton-type hands.
Strap: Single or double tour options in Rouge H, Ardoise, or Étoupe Swift calfskin; Doré Chamkilight goatskin; or Gris Perle Athena calfskin with matching stitching and case-matching pin buckle (gold buckle weight 2.5 gr).
Price: TBD based on reference.
Reference Number: Multiple references based on case material and dial configuration.
Notes: Design based on the original 1991 Henri d’Origny "square within a rectangle" architecture inspired by the Chaîne d'Ancre link.