When Hermès entered the watchmaking world, it did so with a perspective distinct from many of its Swiss-centric peers. The Parisian house has always been a design-led institution, a purveyor of objects where the form, feel, and philosophical intent are just as important as the function. This approach has allowed its horological division, Hermès Horloger, to create timepieces that often defy easy categorization, blending artisanal craft with a sense of creative freedom. This is not a fashion brand simply licensing its name; it is a dedicated watchmaker with a significant stake in its own Swiss production, creating objects that are mechanically serious yet imbued with a uniquely French spirit of design.
The introduction of the Hermès H08 in 2021 marked a significant and focused step into the competitive world of the modern, masculine sports watch. Conceived by Philippe Delhotal, the Creative Director of Hermès Horloger, the H08 was an immediate statement. It was not another dive watch or a simple steel-bracelet all-rounder. Instead, it was an "urban" sports watch, an object designed for movement, activity, and daily life, but filtered through the brand's sophisticated lens. It was a watch built on a foundation of contrasts: it felt at once rigorous in its lines yet original in its form, hovering between a feeling of mechanical tension and visual fluidity.
Courtesy of Hermes
The H08 collection's design language is one of balanced opposition. It is a study in geometric interplay, most notably with its signature cushion-shaped case that houses a perfectly circular dial. This "shape-in-a-shape" concept creates a dynamic visual that is neither fully round nor fully square, existing in a space between. This foundational design was intended to be a versatile platform, one that could be expressed through a variety of materials, textures, and colors. The line has since explored titanium, ceramic, and various composites, all while maintaining the singular, assertive aesthetic that Delhotal first established.
Now, the H08 family expands to include a new level of mechanical complexity with the introduction of the H08 Chronograph. This new model takes the established athletic and urban character of the H08 and adds the practical, high-performance function of a timer. It’s a natural evolution for the line, infusing the design with an even greater sense of purpose and technical capability. The new chronograph isn't just an add-on; it is a fully integrated part of the H08's identity, presented in two new variations, each defined by a bold, bright accent of either vibrant orange or a sharp "Naples yellow."
A key technical decision for this new model was the use of a monopusher chronograph. Unlike a standard chronograph, which uses two separate pushers (typically at 2 and 4 o’clock) for start/stop and reset functions, a monopusher controls all three actions—start, stop, and reset—through successive presses of a single button. This choice is significant, as it is often considered a more mechanically refined and historically interesting complication. It also provides a cleaner, more symmetrical case profile, as it eliminates the need for the extra pusher, preserving the pure, uninterrupted lines of the H08's cushion-shaped case.
This single pusher is cleverly and discreetly integrated directly into the center of the black PVD-coated titanium crown at 3 o’clock. This is a masterful stroke of design, as it hides the watch's primary complication in plain sight. To draw the user's eye, the pusher is delineated by a slim, colorful rim that matches the dial's accents (either orange or yellow). This small detail serves as a visual guide, a subtle hint at the watch's capabilities, while maintaining the case's fluid and uncluttered silhouette. This intuitive, single-point-of-contact for the chronograph function feels both modern and mechanically satisfying.
Courtesy of Hermes
The case itself is a centerpiece of the watch's high-performance identity. It is sculpted from a block of multi-layered composite, a high-tech material that is both exceptionally resistant to wear and incredibly light on the wrist. This composite is not a simple mixture but a carefully constructed material formed from countless, paper-thin sheets of carbon fiber, which are then infused with graphene powder. This blend of materials is more commonly found in aerospace or high-performance auto racing, chosen for its extreme-strength-to-weight ratio. The result is a watch that has a substantial 41mm by 41mm presence but feels almost weightless.
Visually, this advanced case material is captivating. The process of machining the cushion-shaped case from the layered carbon block reveals a unique, striated pattern, almost like a dark, technical wood grain that flows horizontally across the case flanks. This subtle, organic-looking texture means that no two cases will be exactly alike, giving each watch its own distinct personality. The finish is a deep, matte black, which serves as the perfect stealthy backdrop for the other elements to stand out against. This technical and tactile material choice is a core part of the H08's modern, urban appeal.
This dark, textured composite case is topped by a contrasting bezel, which is a perfect circle of sunburst satin-brushed titanium. This is a key part of the H08's "shape-in-a-shape" DNA. The metallic, radial brushing of the titanium bezel provides a bright, technical contrast to the dark, matte finish of the carbon case. This play on materials and finishes is further enhanced by mirror-polished chamfers on the bezel's edge, which catch the light and add a sharp, defined boundary between the case, bezel, and the anti-glare sapphire crystal, adding a sense of dimension and refinement to the otherwise tool-focused aesthetic.
The dial continues this exploration of depth and texture. The face is described as black-gold-treated and blackened, giving it a profound, non-reflective quality. The dial is not a single flat surface; it is a multi-level landscape. The central area and the two chronograph sub-dials are recessed and feature a rough, granular, stippled texture. This "minerality" contrasts beautifully with the smoother, raised outer chapter ring that holds the hour numerals. This creates a legible and visually interesting layout that invites a closer look, playing with how light hits its various surfaces.
Courtesy of Hermes
Legibility is central to the H08 Chronograph's design. The distinctive Arabic numerals, a custom font designed specifically for the H08 collection, are a standout feature. Their rounded, slightly softened shapes (especially the 0, 4, 5, and 8) echo the cushion shape of the case itself. They are not merely printed but are rhodium-plated, applied to the dial, and filled generously with white Super-LumiNova®, ensuring they are clearly visible in low-light conditions. This unique, modern typography is a key part of the watch's singular character.
The hands are designed for instant differentiation. The main hour and minute hands are black-gold, matching the dial's base, and are filled with the same white Super-LumiNova® as the numerals, making the primary time-telling function clear at a glance. The chronograph functions, however, are given their own distinct, high-visibility identity. The long, thin central chronograph seconds hand, as well as the small hands on the two sub-dials, are all coated in either bright orange or Naples yellow. This "at-a-glance" color-coding makes it effortless for the wearer to distinguish between the time and the recorded chronograph measurement.
The dial's layout is balanced and functional. The two sub-dials are, fittingly, also cushion-shaped, mirroring the case and the date window. At 3 o’clock, a small seconds sub-dial provides a constant visual of the watch's operation. At 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter tracks the elapsed time when the chronograph is running. Tucked neatly between the 4 and 5 o'clock markers is a small, cushion-shaped date window, which manages to provide its function without disrupting the overall symmetry of the dial. The white and color-accented minutes track provides a final, precise ring of measurement.
Powering this new chronograph is a sophisticated, Swiss-made engine. The watch uses the Hermès Manufacture movement H1837 as its base. This is the brand's in-house, self-winding caliber, produced by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a high-end movement maker in which Hermès holds a significant stake. This base movement is a proven and reliable performer, measuring 26mm in diameter, 3.7mm thick, and containing 193 components. It operates at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and provides a respectable 46-hour power reserve.
To this robust base, a dedicated monopusher chronograph module is added. This module, developed by the esteemed specialists at Dubois Dépraz, is a complex machine in its own right, measuring 30mm in diameter and composed of an additional 212 components and 34 jewels. When combined, the complete movement system is a testament to serious watchmaking, totaling 405 components and 62 jewels. This modular approach allows Hermès to leverage its excellent base caliber while integrating a specialized and complex complication.
Courtesy of Hermes
This intricate movement is not hidden away. The H08 Chronograph is equipped with an anti-glare sapphire crystal case-back, offering a clear view of the mechanical heart within. The decoration is in line with the brand's understated, high-quality finishing. The mainplate is circular-grained and snailed, while the bridges and the oscillating weight (rotor) are satin-brushed. As a final signature, the rotor is decorated with Hermès' "sprinkling of Hs," a repeating 'H' micro-pattern that is a subtle nod to the house's identity, visible only to the owner.
The watch is secured to the wrist by a custom-designed rubber strap in a color that matches the dial accents—either a bold, saturated orange or the vibrant Naples yellow. This is not a standard, flat rubber strap. It features a unique, deep texture that is described as being "reminiscent of Hermès weaves." This tactile, fabric-like pattern is a clear and clever link to the brand's rich heritage as an artisan of textiles and leather goods, translated into a modern, waterproof, and durable material that is perfect for a sports watch.
This high-quality strap is affixed with a matching high-quality clasp. It's a titanium folding clasp, which provides more security and a more seamless look than a standard pin buckle. To match the case's dark, technical aesthetic, the clasp is coated in a satin-brushed black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) finish. This coating makes the lightweight titanium even more resistant to scratches, ensuring the clasp looks as good as the case after extended wear. The 21mm width gives the strap a strong, substantial stance on the wrist.
In terms of wearability, the watch's dimensions are thoughtfully considered. The 41mm by 41mm case measurement sounds large, but the critical number is the 45mm lug-to-lug height. This relatively compact north-to-south measurement means the watch will not overhang the wrist of most wearers, providing a comfortable and well-proportioned fit. This, combined with the extreme lightness of the carbon-graphene composite case, makes for a watch that is present and full of character, yet remarkably easy to wear all day. The 10-bar (100-meter) water resistance rating further solidifies its credentials as a true all-around, everyday sports watch.
Courtesy of Hermes
The Hermès H08 Chronograph, in both its orange and yellow executions, presents a compelling package. It is a watch that successfully balances a high-fashion, design-forward aesthetic with serious, high-performance materials and a legitimately sophisticated mechanical movement. It respects horological tradition with its monopusher complication while pushing forward with its advanced composite case and bold, modern design language. It is a watch that feels cohesive, purposeful, and unmistakably Hermès.
These new models, which are made in Switzerland, are positioned in the luxury sports watch category. The Hermès H08 Chronograph is priced at $12,800. The orange-accented model is identified by the product reference W403130WW00, while the Naples yellow version carries the reference W403131WW00. Both offer an identical mechanical experience, with the choice coming down to the wearer's personal preference for the energetic warmth of orange or the sharp, electric vibrancy of yellow.
Case: 41mm x 41mm cushion-shaped case, 45mm lug-to-lug height. Sculpted from carbon fiber composite coated with graphene powder. Sunburst satin-brushed titanium bezel with mirror-polished chamfers. Black PVD-coated titanium crown. Anti-glare sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar.
Movement: Hermès Manufacture movement H1837, mechanical self-winding. Features a monopusher chronograph module. 46-hour power reserve. Frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz). 193 components (base) + 212 components (module), 28 jewels (base) + 34 jewels (module). Decorated with circular-graining, snailing, and Hermès' sprinkling of Hs.
Dial: Black-gold-treated and blackened. Rhodium-plated applied Arabic numerals coated with Super-LumiNova®. Black gold hands coated with Super-LumiNova®. Orange or Naples yellow varnished seconds and counters hands. Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock, date at 4:30, chronograph.
Strap: Single tour strap in orange or Naples yellow rubber. Titanium folding clasp coated with satin-brushed black DLC, 21 mm.
Price: $12,800
Reference Number: W403130WW00 (Orange), W403131WW00 (Naples Yellow)
Notes: The watch features an intuitive monopusher chronograph, where the start, stop, and reset functions are all controlled by a single button integrated into the crown. The case is made from a high-tech, lightweight composite of carbon fiber and graphene powder.