Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges

The introduction of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges marks a significant juncture in the chronology of Swiss watchmaking, representing the convergence of two distinct yet complementary lineages within the manufacture’s history. This release is not merely an addition to a catalogue but rather a deliberate fusion of the brand’s most recognizable architectural signature, the Three Bridges, with its most prominent sport-chic silhouette, the Laureato. The result is a timepiece that navigates the complex territory between robust industrial design and the delicate, ornamental intricacies of high horology. By strictly limiting this production to fifty pieces, Girard-Perregaux underscores the rarity and difficulty of execution inherent in this union, presenting a mechanism that is as much a study in structural engineering as it is a functional instrument for timekeeping. The watch, identified by reference 99112-58-3576-1CM, stands as a testament to the brand's ability to adapt 19th-century pocket watch aesthetics to the demands of the modern wrist, all while celebrating the upcoming semi-centennial of the Laureato line.



To fully grasp the weight of this release, one must examine the origins of the components involved, beginning with the architecture that gives the watch its name. In 1867, Constant Girard fundamentally altered the trajectory of movement design by unveiling a tourbillon pocket watch where the structural bridges were not hidden beneath a dial but were instead celebrated as the primary aesthetic element. These arrow-shaped bridges transformed the movement from a hidden engine into a visible masterpiece, effectively inventing the concept of technical transparency long before skeletonization became a widespread trend in the industry. This design philosophy, which championed the idea that mechanics could possess an intrinsic beauty worthy of display, has remained a cornerstone of Girard-Perregaux’s identity for over a century and a half. The transition of this layout into the Laureato case feels like a natural evolution, yet it requires a complete rethinking of how a movement sits within a sportier, integrated framework. The Laureato, born in 1975 amidst a revolution in steel sports watches, was defined by its interplay of an octagonal bezel resting upon a circular ring, a geometry that creates diverse light reflections and a distinct visual profile. Merging these two worlds—the historic, ornamental bridge architecture and the brutalist, geometric lines of the 1970s—requires a delicate hand to ensure neither design language overpowers the other.



Visually, the Laureato Three Gold Bridges commands attention through a striking absence of a traditional dial, allowing the movement to act as the face of the watch. The observer is immediately drawn to the three horizontal bridges, crafted from 18k white gold, which dominate the visual field. These are not simple structural bars; they are arrow-headed sculptures that span the width of the opening, providing a rigid and symmetrical framework for the gear train. The decision to execute these bridges in white gold, rather than the brass or steel often found in lesser movements, speaks to the luxurious intent of the piece and adds a subtle luster that contrasts with the rhodium-plated components beneath. The bridges are open-worked, a stylistic choice that reduces their visual mass and allows the eye to penetrate deeper into the mechanics, revealing the layers of gears, springs, and levers that drive the system. This transparency is not chaotic but highly ordered, with the barrel, gear train, and tourbillon arranged along a strict vertical axis, creating a sense of equilibrium that is rare in mechanical movements. The symmetry is profound, providing a calming effect on the viewer that belies the frenetic energy of the oscillating balance wheel at the six o'clock position.



The case encasing this mechanical metropolis preserves the beloved dimensions of the modern Laureato, measuring 41 millimeters in diameter, a size that has become the gold standard for contemporary versatile wearability. What is perhaps more impressive than the diameter is the thickness, or rather the lack thereof. At just 10.85 millimeters in height, the watch sits remarkably low on the wrist for a timepiece housing a tourbillon and a three-bridge architecture. This slenderness is achieved through the ingenious construction of the movement, which avoids the bulk typically associated with modular complications. The case material is primarily stainless steel, chosen for its resilience and connection to the Laureato’s sports-watch heritage, but it is elevated by the inclusion of a white gold bezel. This mix of metals is subtle, as both are white metals, but the discerning eye will notice the difference in warmth and luster between the steel case body and the precious metal bezel. The bezel itself is a study in finishing, featuring a circular satin-brushed top surface that diffuses light softly, contrasted by a highly polished flank that creates a sharp, reflective boundary between the octagon and the rest of the case. This interplay of brushed and polished surfaces extends to the H-shaped links of the integrated bracelet, creating a cascade of light that moves with the wearer's wrist.



The engine powering this machine is the newly developed Calibre GP09620, a self-winding mechanical movement that was designed, developed, and crafted entirely in-house specifically for this timepiece. It is not a movement pulled from a shelf and adapted; it is a purpose-built engine tailored to the dimensions and aesthetic requirements of the Laureato case. The frequency of the balance is set at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 3 Hertz, a traditional beat rate that allows for a larger, more visually impressive balance wheel and ensures a steady, reliable chronometric performance. Comprising 303 individual components, the movement is a labyrinth of micro-engineering where every part plays a role in the precise subdivision of time. The power reserve is a robust minimum of 55 hours, ensuring that the watch can be set aside for a weekend and still be running accurately when picked up on Monday morning. This practicality is often overlooked in high-complication watches, but it is essential for a piece that claims lineage to the sports watch genre.



One of the most technically fascinating aspects of the Calibre GP09620 is the solution engineers found to maintain the transparency of the movement while still offering automatic winding. In traditional automatic watches, a large semi-circular rotor sits on top of the movement, blocking half the view of the mechanics at any given time. To avoid this obstruction, Girard-Perregaux utilized a micro-rotor crafted from platinum. Platinum is chosen not just for its value, but for its density; the heavy metal allows the small rotor to generate sufficient winding inertia despite its diminished size. However, simply adding a micro-rotor can often clutter the dial side or increase thickness. The masterstroke here is the positioning: the micro-rotor is tucked neatly beneath the barrel, hidden behind the upper bridge. This "inverted" construction brings the spectacle of the movement to the front while hiding the utilitarian winding system, ensuring that nothing obstructs the view of the three gold bridges and the tourbillon. It is a rational, clever use of three-dimensional space that maximizes both aesthetics and function.



The tourbillon at the six o'clock position acts as the kinetic focal point of the dial, a whirling dervish of precision nestled within a titanium cage. The cage is shaped in the form of a lyre, a historic reference to the brand's 19th-century tourbillons, and performs a full rotation once every minute. This rotation allows the tourbillon to double as a small seconds indicator, a function often omitted in skeletonized watches but present here to add utility to the artistry. The choice of titanium for the cage is critical; weighing only a fraction of a gram, the lightweight material reduces the energy consumption required to rotate the cage, thereby preserving the power reserve and reducing wear on the escapement. The tourbillon’s primary purpose, to counter the adverse effects of gravity on the escapement by averaging out positional errors, is almost secondary to its visual impact. It provides a heartbeat to the watch, a constant, mesmerizing motion that contrasts with the static, rigid architecture of the bridges above it. Watching the balance wheel breathe and the cage rotate is an experience that connects the wearer directly to the passage of time.



Finishing on the Laureato Three Gold Bridges is executed to a standard that borders on obsessive, with 418 distinct angles hand-polished by the manufacture’s artisans. Of these, 362 are "inward angles," a specific type of bevel where two chamfered edges meet at a sharp internal point. This is a detail that cannot be achieved by CNC machines or automated polishing tools; it requires the dexterity and patience of a human hand using traditional files and buffs. The presence of so many inward angles is a secret handshake to collectors, signaling that the movement is truly hand-finished rather than mass-produced. The surfaces of the movement feature a variety of textures, including sandblasting, circular graining, and straight satin finishing, creating a rich topography that catches the light in different ways. The arrow-shaped ends of the bridges are mirror-polished, reflecting a bright, distortion-free image of their surroundings, while the flanks are drawn out with satin brushes to emphasize the architectural lines. A small plate in white gold, discreetly placed at the base of the movement, bears the individual initials of the master watchmaker who assembled and finished the calibre, a personal signature that creates a direct link between the craftsman and the collector.



Legibility, often the Achilles' heel of skeletonized watches, has been carefully considered in this design. Instead of a traditional dial, a chapter ring floats at the periphery of the case, carrying suspended hour markers made of white gold. These markers are baton-shaped and filled with luminescent material that emits a blue glow in low-light conditions, ensuring that the time can be read even in total darkness. The hands are similarly treated, bold and baton-style, providing a strong contrast against the complex mechanical background. The decision to use blue emission luminescence adds a modern, cool tone to the watch that complements the steel and white gold aesthetic. This focus on readability reinforces the idea that despite its complexity and price, this is still a Laureato—a watch intended to be worn and used, not just admired in a safe.



The integration of the bracelet into the case is seamless, a hallmark of the luxury sports watch genre. The transition from the lugs to the first link is fluid, creating a continuous line that wraps comfortably around the wrist. The bracelet itself is a complex assembly of satin-brushed H-links and polished center links, a design that allows for flexibility and breathability. The clasp is a triple-folding mechanism equipped with a fine adjustment system, a feature that has become increasingly important to modern consumers. This system allows the wearer to expand or contract the bracelet length by up to 4 millimeters without the use of tools, accommodating the natural swelling and shrinking of the wrist throughout the day due to temperature changes or activity. It is a practical touch that greatly enhances the day-to-day comfort of the watch, proving that ergonomic considerations were given as much weight as aesthetic ones. The tactile experience of operating the clasp and the adjustment mechanism is solid and reassuring, conveying a sense of quality and durability.



For those desiring an even more exalted visual statement, the manufacture produces a variation of this timepiece adorned with diamonds, though this version is not subject to the strict fifty-piece limitation of the standard model. This gem-set iteration features a bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 3.2 carats. The setting technique employed here is invisible setting, where no metal prongs are visible between the stones, creating a continuous ribbon of brilliance around the dial. The baguette cut is particularly unforgiving, as the step-cut facets reveal any inclusions or imperfections in the stone, requiring the use of only the highest clarity diamonds. The geometric nature of the baguette cut mirrors the architectural lines of the bridges and the case, creating a cohesive design language that is glamorous without being overly ostentatious. The slight widening of the bezel towards the corners of the octagon necessitates custom-cutting the diamonds to fit the tapered channel, a process that demands the expertise of a master gem-setter.



The water resistance of the Laureato Three Gold Bridges is rated at 30 meters. While this does not classify it as a diving instrument, it is sufficient for the hazards of daily life, such as rain or hand washing. Given the open nature of the movement and the lack of a dial to protect the internal components, this rating is standard for high-complication skeleton watches. The sapphire crystals on both the front and back are treated with anti-reflective coating, minimizing glare and ensuring a clear view of the movement from all angles. The case back view is just as impressive as the front, offering a reverse perspective of the gear train and the platinum micro-rotor. The continuity of finishing from front to back is flawless, with no component left untouched by the finisher’s tool.



The narrative of this watch is also one of heritage preservation. In an era where many brands are chasing futuristic materials and avant-garde shapes, Girard-Perregaux remains steadfast in its commitment to the Three Bridges design. It is a layout that has survived the transition from pocket watches to wristwatches, from manual wind to quartz (in the 1970s), and back to automatic mechanical. By placing this historic signature inside the Laureato, the brand is asserting that its icons are not stagnant museum pieces but evolving concepts that can adapt to the changing tastes of the collector market. The Laureato Three Gold Bridges is a bridge in itself—a bridge between the 19th and 21st centuries, between the dress watch and the sports watch, and between art and engineering.



The market positioning of this timepiece places it in the upper echelon of luxury sports watches, competing directly with high-complication offerings from the "Holy Trinity" of Swiss watchmaking. However, the Girard-Perregaux offers a distinct aesthetic proposition. It does not try to emulate the designs of its competitors but stands confidently on its own history. The combination of the octagonal bezel and the horizontal bridges is instantly recognizable, providing a unique silhouette that cannot be mistaken for anything else. For the collector who values architectural design and historical provenance, this watch offers a compelling alternative to the more ubiquitous options in the segment. It is a watch for the connoisseur who understands the difficulty of hand-finishing inward angles and appreciates the ingenuity of an inverted movement construction.



In terms of acquisition, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges is a highly exclusive proposition. The standard model, featuring the stainless steel case and white gold bezel, is strictly limited to 50 pieces worldwide, making it a rare find for dedicated enthusiasts. It carries a retail price of $175,350, a figure that reflects the extensive hand-labor, precious materials, and low production volume involved. The diamond-set version, while not limited by a specific number, will naturally be produced in very low quantities due to the time-consuming nature of the gem-setting process. Both versions are available through authorized Girard-Perregaux retailers as of late 2025. Given the limited production run and the significance of the Laureato’s approaching 50th anniversary, it is likely that these pieces will be allocated quickly to established clients of the brand. This release is not merely a product launch; it is a celebration of enduring style and mechanical ingenuity, offering a select few the opportunity to own a piece of history that is built to last for generations to come.



Case: Stainless steel case with white gold bezel; 41mm diameter; 10.85mm thickness; anti-reflective sapphire crystal; sapphire crystal case-back; water resistance 30m (3 ATM); octagonal bezel with polished and satin finishes.

Movement: Calibre GP09620; in-house self-winding mechanical; 30mm diameter (14 ’’’); 6.90mm height; 21,600 Vib/h (3 Hz) frequency; 303 components; 33 jewels; platinum micro-rotor; min. 55h power reserve; three white gold openworked bridges; tourbillon at 6 o'clock.

Dial: Openworked structure (no dial); outer ring displaying suspended white gold indexes; blue emission luminescent material on indexes; white gold ‘baton’ type hands with blue emission luminescent material.

Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet; H-links with domed and satin finish; triple folding buckle; fine adjustment system extending up to 4mm.

Price: $175,350 USD

Reference Number: 99112-58-3576-1CM

Notes: Limited Edition of 50 timepieces; features 418 hand-polished angles including 362 inward angles; marks the first time the Three Gold Bridges movement architecture is housed within the Laureato collection.