Fifty years marks a significant milestone, a point of reflection where past achievements are celebrated and future ambitions are charted. In the realm of watchmaking, such an anniversary is an opportunity to revisit an icon, not merely to replicate it, but to distill its essence and present it anew for a contemporary audience. Girard-Perregaux finds itself at this very juncture in 2025, celebrating the half-century of its distinctive Laureato. The commemoration comes in the form of the Laureato Fifty, a limited-edition model that encapsulates the spirit of the 1975 original while demonstrating the manufacture's forward momentum through refined design and enhanced mechanical engineering.
Girard-Perregaux's story did not begin in the 1970s; its roots stretch back to 1791. From its inception, the company distinguished itself by embracing the manufacture model, a commitment to in-house production that was uncommon in an industry largely built on a network of specialized suppliers. This philosophy of integrated watchmaking, bringing design and movement creation under one roof in La Chaux-de-Fonds, allowed for a degree of creative and technical control that would become a cornerstone of the brand's identity. This deep-seated expertise would prove invaluable centuries later when the industry faced a technological upheaval.
Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
The 1970s presented a paradigm shift for Swiss watchmaking with the rise of quartz technology. While many traditional brands viewed this as an existential threat, Girard-Perregaux saw an opportunity to lead. The company had established a dedicated Research and Development department as early as 1966 to explore the potential of quartz. This foresight culminated in the 1971 unveiling of the calibre GP350, which operated at a frequency of 32,768 Hz. This wasn't just a new movement; it was the establishment of a universal standard for quartz timekeeping that persists to this day. This mastery of the new technology was the very foundation upon which the first Laureato was built.
Launched in 1975, the original Laureato was a product of its time, yet it managed to carve out a unique identity. It entered the nascent category of the luxury sports watch, defined by integrated bracelets and bold case shapes, but it did so on its own terms. Equipped with an in-house, chronometer-certified quartz movement, it was a statement of technical prowess. Its design, conceived internally, was a study in geometric harmony, a departure from the more angular or overtly nautical themes of its peers.
The visual signature of the Laureato is a careful interplay of shapes. An octagonal bezel sits atop a circular base, which in turn flows seamlessly into a tonneau-shaped case. This combination of forms creates a silhouette that is both architectural and fluid. It avoided the exposed screws and sharp angles of some contemporaries, favoring a more subtle and balanced aesthetic. It was a watch that didn't shout for attention but earned it through its precision and considered proportions, setting a trend rather than following one.
The Laureato Fifty carries this fifty-year legacy forward, serving as both a tribute and a declaration. It is a piece that feels immediately familiar to those who know the collection, yet it is filled with subtle updates that reveal themselves upon closer inspection. Produced in a limited run of 200 pieces, it is a focused celebration, designed for those who appreciate the nuances of the Laureato's history and the direction of its future. The chosen materials of steel and 3N yellow gold are a direct nod to the bicolored models of the past, but their application and finishing are entirely of the moment.
Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
The case of the Laureato Fifty has been re-examined, resulting in a form that is sharper and more defined. Measuring 39 mm in diameter with a thickness of just 9.8 mm, its proportions are calibrated for modern wearability while retaining a strong presence. The angles of the tonneau-shaped case are more acute, and the bevels that trace its edges are more pronounced, creating dynamic surfaces that interact with light. The integration of the bracelet feels even more seamless, as if the case and bracelet were sculpted from a single block of metal. This two-tone construction provides a visual contrast that highlights the watch's unique geometry.
Atop the case sits the signature octagonal bezel, rendered here in solid 3N yellow gold. This component is a masterclass in finishing. Its top surface is meticulously satin-brushed, creating a soft, matte effect that diffuses light. This is framed by a highly polished chamfered edge that catches the light with sharp, brilliant reflections. This alternation between brushed and polished finishes is a recurring theme throughout the watch, adding a layer of visual complexity and sophistication. Both the dial and the exhibition case-back are protected by flat sapphire crystals, which contribute to the watch's slender profile.
The dial of the Laureato Fifty is a field of texture and depth. Presented in a deep sunray grey, its surface is decorated with an intricate "Clous de Paris" pattern. This hobnail guilloché consists of tiny pyramidal shapes that capture and reflect light in countless directions, giving the dial a lively character that shifts with the viewing angle. The sunray finish emanating from the center adds another layer of dynamism, causing a subtle shimmer to sweep across the textured surface as the wrist moves.
Against this detailed grey background, the hands and applied hour markers provide warm contrast. They are crafted in a baton style and plated in 3N gold, matching the bezel and bracelet highlights. Each marker and hand is filled with a strip of white luminescent material, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. A particularly thoughtful detail is the date window at 3 o'clock. The date disc beneath is colored to match the grey of the dial, allowing it to integrate smoothly without disrupting the visual harmony. This level of color-matching is a hallmark of high-end watchmaking.
Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
A slender, gold-plated central seconds hand glides over the textured dial. Its design is simple and effective, but its counterweight is a small, signature detail. Shaped like a double arrow, it is a subtle representation of the Girard-Perregaux emblem, a nod to the manufacture's identity placed at the very center of the watch's time-telling function. This small element speaks to a design ethos where every component, no matter how minor, is considered and imbued with brand character.
The integrated bracelet is as fundamental to the Laureato's identity as its bezel, and on the Fifty, it has been refined for both aesthetic and ergonomic effect. It continues the two-tone theme with outer 'H' links in brushed steel and central links in polished 3N yellow gold. The steel links are horizontally brushed, while the gold links are polished and slightly more domed, creating a play on texture and volume that runs the length of the bracelet. The entire structure tapers gently towards the clasp, enhancing its sleek profile.
Comfort has been a key focus in the bracelet's redesign. The individual links are slightly shorter than on previous models, allowing the bracelet to conform more closely to the natural curve of the wrist. For a perfect fit, half-link adjustment is also possible. This attention to ergonomics ensures that the watch is not just visually appealing but also exceptionally comfortable for daily wear, a critical aspect of any sports watch design.
The bracelet is secured by a triple folding clasp that integrates smoothly into the final links. The push-pieces used to open the clasp are octagonal, cleverly echoing the shape of the bezel and reinforcing the watch's cohesive design language. Inside this clasp lies a discreet but highly practical innovation: a fine adjustment system. It allows the wearer to easily extend or retract the bracelet by up to 4 mm without the need for tools. This is particularly useful for making small adjustments to accommodate changes in wrist size due to temperature or activity.
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Turning the watch over reveals a new chapter in Girard-Perregaux's mechanical history through a sapphire crystal case-back. The Laureato Fifty is powered by the new in-house Calibre GP4800. The development of a new base movement is a significant undertaking for any manufacture, and the GP4800 is designed to be a modern workhorse, combining slimness with robust performance and reliability. It is an automatic movement, wound by a handsome oscillating weight crafted from solid 3N yellow gold.
The technical specifications of the GP4800 underscore its contemporary design. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a minimum power reserve of 55 hours. Its regulating organ features a variable-inertia balance, adjusted by four white gold screws on its rim, which offers superior stability and shock resistance compared to a traditional index regulator. The escapement is made of silicium, a modern material known for its anti-magnetic properties, low friction, and stability, which contributes to long-term chronometric performance.
Visually, the GP4800 is decorated with no fewer than ten different types of finishing, showcasing the manufacture's skill. Beyond its technical merits, the movement represents a historic milestone for Girard-Perregaux. Its very construction is inspired by the brand's most famous mechanical signature: the Three Bridges. This is the first time that this architectural principle, typically reserved for the brand's high-end tourbillons, has been applied to the design of a simpler time-and-date movement, extending a core piece of brand DNA into the heart of the Laureato collection.
In practical terms, the Laureato Fifty offers the essential functions of hours, minutes, central seconds, and a date display. Despite its refined appearance and complex finishing, it maintains a strong degree of utility. The case is water-resistant to 150 meters, a rating that provides ample protection for swimming and other water activities, making it a truly versatile timepiece capable of transitioning from formal settings to more casual, active environments without compromise.
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The Laureato Fifty is a compelling synthesis of heritage and innovation. The redesigned case and bracelet honor the original's geometric principles while improving wearability. The textured dial offers a rich visual experience, and the new Calibre GP4800 provides a technically advanced and beautifully finished engine. It is a watch that respects its fifty-year history without being constrained by it, demonstrating how an iconic design can evolve to remain relevant and exciting.
As a celebratory piece, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty is being released as a limited edition of 200 timepieces worldwide. It will be made available through authorized Girard-Perregaux retailers starting in October 2025. The watch is priced at $28,320 USD, reflecting its precious metal content, in-house movement, and the exclusivity of the anniversary edition.
Case: 39mm diameter by 9.8mm thick 3N yellow gold and steel case. Sapphire crystal front and back. Water resistance of 150 meters.
Movement: In-house automatic Calibre GP4800. 25.60mm diameter. 28,800 Vib/h (4 Hz) frequency. 55-hour minimum power reserve. 19 jewels. Functions include hours, minutes, central seconds, and date.
Dial: Sunray grey with a "Clous de Paris" pattern. 3N gold-plated pink gold indexes and hands with luminescent material.
Strap: Integrated bracelet in 3N yellow gold and steel. Triple folding clasp with up to 4mm of fine adjustment.
Price: $28,320 USD
Reference Number: 81008-63-3412-1CM
Notes: Limited edition of 200 pieces celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Laureato. Features the new Calibre GP4800, the first time-and-date movement with construction inspired by Girard-Perregaux's iconic Three Bridges design.