Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition

Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new iteration of a historic model, the Deep Diver, now presented as a Legacy Edition. This release marks a collaboration with Bamford Watch Department, aiming to blend historical reverence with contemporary design sensibilities. The watch emerges from a lineage dating back to 1969, a period recognized for its adventurous spirit in both technology and aesthetics.

The original Deep Diver, reference 9108, first appeared in 1969, distinguishing itself with a cushion-shaped case and the integration of the Gyromatic system. This mechanism was a significant development for Girard-Perregaux, offering enhanced efficiency in automatic winding. The watch wasn't just a tool; its design, particularly a version with a striking red dial and a 14-facet bezel, made it a visually assertive piece for its time. This early case geometry can be seen as a precursor to the design language later solidified in the brand’s renowned Laureato collection, introduced in 1975.



The 1960s, the birth era of the original Deep Diver, were a crucible of innovation. Society was captivated by the "Space Race," the Concorde was making its initial test flights, and designers like Verner Panton were revolutionizing furniture with single-piece molded plastic chairs. Girard-Perregaux tapped into this zeitgeist, producing a diver's watch that was both technically competent and stylistically forward. It captured a sense of daring and advanced thinking, which contributed to its rapid ascent to legendary status among watch enthusiasts.

More than five decades later, the Deep Diver is reintroduced, not as a mere copy, but as a reinterpretation for today’s market. This new Legacy Edition seeks to honor the DNA of its predecessors while incorporating modern watchmaking standards and materials. The project benefits from the input of Bamford Watch Department, a company known for its bespoke approach to watch customization and its distinctive design ethos.

The case of the new Deep Diver Legacy Edition maintains the historical cushion shape, a direct nod to the 1969 original. Constructed from Grade 5 titanium, the case dimensions are 40.30 mm by 38.00 mm, with a thickness of 13.91 mm. Titanium, prized for its high strength-to-weight ratio and corrosion resistance, makes the watch surprisingly light and comfortable for its robust appearance, suitable for daily wear despite its tool-watch heritage. The choice of material itself signifies a modern upgrade, offering durability and a contemporary feel.



A defining characteristic of the case is the presence of two crowns, positioned at 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock. This symmetrical arrangement is inspired by the original model. The crown at 2 o'clock serves to adjust the rotating inner bezel, a crucial feature for divers timing submersions. The inner bezel is bi-directional and locks, ensuring that once set, the dive time indication cannot be accidentally altered. The crown at 4 o'clock is used for setting the time and date, and for winding the movement if necessary. This dual-crown setup also harks back to the era’s super compressor-style dive watches, adding to its vintage charm.

The dial of this new Deep Diver is a vibrant affair, employing a striking palette of orange, white, and blue. This color combination gives the watch a distinctly sporty and somewhat playful character, reminiscent of pop aesthetics from the late 1960s and early 1970s. The main dial surface is a bold orange, providing high contrast for the hands and markers. The rectangular indexes are filled with luminescent material, which emits a blue glow in low-light conditions, ensuring readability. The typography of the numerals on the inner rotating bezel is inspired by the retro-futuristic style seen on the original Deep Diver.

Further detailing on the dial includes the "GIRARD-PERREGAUX" and "BAMFORD" decals, acknowledging the collaborative nature of this edition. Notably, the Bamford logo is semi-hidden, designed to become more apparent under lumed conditions, adding a subtle layer of discovery for the owner. A date window is positioned at 3 o’clock, offering practical functionality. The hands are grey PVD-treated and also feature luminescent material, again glowing blue for optimal visibility in dim environments.

The case-back of the Deep Diver Legacy Edition is a notable feature. It is made from blue metallized sapphire crystal, allowing a view of the movement within. This transparent back is adorned with a metallized Deep Diver logo, which includes a trident emblem. This trident is a tribute to Neptune, the Roman god of the sea, underscoring the watch's aquatic lineage and its capability as a diver's instrument, rated for water resistance up to 200 meters (20 ATM).



Powering this timepiece is the Calibre GP03300, an in-house automatic movement entirely crafted at Girard-Perregaux’s manufacturing facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. This self-winding movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a minimum power reserve of 46 hours. The movement's relatively slim profile, at just 3.36 mm in height, contributes to the overall wearability of the watch, preventing it from feeling overly bulky despite its robust specifications. The total diameter of the movement is 25.95 mm (11 1/2 lignes), and it comprises 218 components, including 27 jewels.

Girard-Perregaux has a long-standing reputation for exquisite movement finishing, and the GP03300 in this Deep Diver is no exception. Visible through the sapphire case-back, the movement showcases a variety of traditional decorative techniques. These include chamfering (angling of edges), circular graining (perlage), circular and straight Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), engravings, mirror-polishing, satin finishing, snailing, and sunray finishing. The oscillating weight, responsible for the automatic winding (clockwise direction), is made of steel and is decorated with circular Côtes de Genève, while the bridges feature linear Côtes de Genève. These meticulous finishes are a testament to the brand's commitment to high horology.

The watch is supplied with two rubber straps, enhancing its versatility. It comes fitted with a blue rubber strap, and an additional orange rubber strap is included, allowing the wearer to change the look of the watch to suit their preference or occasion. The straps are equipped with a titanium pin buckle, matching the case material. An integrated quick-release system allows for easy strap changes without the need for tools, a convenient feature for modern users who appreciate adaptability.



The Deep Diver Legacy Edition is part of Girard-Perregaux’s ‘Legacy Editions’ collection. This series aims to celebrate the Maison's rich history by reintroducing iconic models from its past, updated with modern materials and contemporary watchmaking expertise. The collection began with the re-edition of the Casquette, a distinctive retro-futuristic LED watch from 1976. These Legacy Editions are not straightforward reissues; each model is carefully reimagined, considering both aesthetic fidelity and current technical standards.

The collaboration with Bamford Watch Department is central to this particular Deep Diver's identity. Bamford Watch Department, founded by George Bamford, has carved a niche in the luxury watch world through its customization services and unique limited-edition collaborations. Their involvement ensures that the Deep Diver Legacy Edition possesses a distinct character that balances Girard-Perregaux's heritage with Bamford's modern design sensibilities. George Bamford expressed that it was an honor to apply the Bamford style to such an emblematic Girard-Perregaux model.

The specific design choices for this new Deep Diver reflect a thoughtful fusion of past and present. The cushion-shaped case and the typography are clear links to the original, while the choice of Grade 5 titanium for the case, the vibrant orange, blue, and white dial, and the modern quick-release strap system bring it firmly into the 21st century. The dial design itself pays homage to the bold aesthetics of the 1971 edition of the Deep Diver, showing an appreciation for specific iterations within the model's history.

The functionality of the watch remains true to its "diver" designation. The 200-meter water resistance, screw-down crowns (implied for this level of WR and functionality), robust titanium case, highly legible luminescent dial, and the rotating inner bezel for timing dives are all practical features. The locking mechanism for the inner bezel is particularly important, as it prevents accidental adjustments that could be critical during a dive. While many owners may not use it for professional diving, these features speak to its capability and its authentic connection to the world of underwater exploration.



The decision to limit the Deep Diver Legacy Edition to just 350 pieces adds an element of exclusivity. Limited editions in the Legacy Editions collection, like the earlier Casquette, have become sought after by collectors. This strategy of limited production for a set period helps create desirability and positions these watches as special items within the brand's broader offerings. They are presented as more than just watches; they are narratives of the brand's journey, reimagined for a new generation.

The Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition, with model reference 39500-21-3266-6CX, is priced at USD 15,100. It will be available through all Girard-Perregaux retailers worldwide. Additionally, it can be purchased online via Bamford's website, reflecting the collaborative nature of its release and acknowledging Bamford's significant role in its conception and distribution. This availability ensures that enthusiasts and collectors globally have an opportunity to acquire one of the 350 pieces.

Case: Grade 5 titanium, 40.30 x 38 mm diameter, 13.91 mm thickness. Blue metallized sapphire crystal case-back with metallized Deep Diver logo. Water resistance 200 m. Two crowns: 2 o'clock for inner bezel, 4 o'clock for time/date.

Movement: In-house Calibre GP03300 automatic. Clockwise winding. 25.95 mm total diameter, 3.36 mm height. 28,800 Vib/h (4 Hz) frequency. 218 parts, 27 jewels. Steel oscillating weight. Minimum 46-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, sweep second hand, date at 3 o’clock, rotating inner bi-directional bezel with locking crown.

Dial: Orange, white, and blue. Rectangular indexes with luminescent material (blue emission). “GIRARD-PERREGAUX” and “BAMFORD” decals; Bamford logo semi-hidden, shows under lume. Grey PVD-treated hands with luminescent material (blue emission).

Strap: Blue rubber strap with titanium pin buckle. Includes complimentary orange rubber strap. Integrated quick-release system.

Price: USD 15,100

Reference Number: 39500-21-3266-6CX

Notes: Limited edition of 350 timepieces. Collaboration with Bamford Watch Department. Modern reinterpretation of the 1969 Deep Diver, with dial design cues from the 1971 edition and a case geometry foreshadowing the Laureato.