Gerald Genta Gentissima Oursin 41

The expansion of the gérald genta Gentissima Oursin collection marks a significant shift in the landscape of avant-garde horology with the introduction of two new models housed in a 41mm case. Since the collection's initial debut in 2024, the focus has largely been on varied organic materials ranging from mother-of-pearl to onyx, yet these latest iterations turn their gaze upward toward the cosmos. The introduction of meteorite dials in both blue and green hues brings a distinctively extraterrestrial element to a design that was originally born from the depths of the ocean. This release represents a calculated move to broaden the appeal of the Oursin line, offering a larger, more substantial presence on the wrist that caters to collectors who found the previous 36.5mm references too diminutive for their personal style.



The case architecture of the Gentissima Oursin 41 is a study in textural contrast and industrial craftsmanship, utilizing Grade 5 titanium as its primary foundation. This material choice is pivotal, as titanium offers a robust strength-to-weight ratio that is essential for a watch of these dimensions, ensuring that the increase in size does not result in an uncomfortable heaviness during daily wear. The metal has been treated with a sandblasted finish, resulting in a matte, muted grey surface that absorbs light rather than reflecting it. This subdued backdrop serves a specific purpose: it acts as a canvas for the 234 individual white gold beads that are set into the casing. These polished spheres protrude from the titanium surface, creating a tactile experience that mimics the organic, spiky exterior of the sea creature that inspired the watch's name.



Visually, the interaction between the matte titanium and the high-polish white gold beads creates a dazzling geometric display that changes as the wrist moves through different lighting conditions. The beads are not merely decorative accents added as an afterthought; they are integral to the structural identity of the watch, transforming the case into a piece of wrist-worn sculpture. The placement of each bead requires precise machining and setting, ensuring a uniform distribution that wraps around the convex sides of the case. This studded aesthetic gives the watch an armored appearance, blending the aggression of industrial design with the natural, defensive evolution found in marine biology. It is a bold aesthetic choice that creates a high level of visual volume, making the 41mm diameter feel even more prominent.



The history of this unique shape dates back to 1994, originating from a moment of creative serendipity during a family vacation in Corsica. Gerald Genta, a designer whose portfolio includes some of the most recognizable steel sports watches of the 20th century, found inspiration while walking along the beach. His encounter with a sea urchin—a creature characterized by its round, symmetrical body and protective spines—sparked the idea for a timepiece that would translate these biological traits into horological form. The resulting design was the Oursin, which translates to "sea urchin" in French. While the original concepts were innovative for their time, the modern revival under the stewardship of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has allowed the design to reach new levels of refinement and manufacturing precision.



The dials of these new 41mm models are the centerpiece of the update, utilizing genuine meteorite to create a face that is literally billions of years old. The use of meteorite in watchmaking is prized for the Widmanstätten pattern, a naturally occurring crystalline structure that forms as the iron-nickel alloy cools over millions of years while traveling through the vacuum of space. Because this pattern is organic and chaotic, no two dials are exactly alike; the intersecting lines and metallic shards create a unique fingerprint for every single watch produced. In the Gentissima Oursin 41, this extraterrestrial material is offered in two distinct color treatments that dramatically alter the personality of the watch.



The green meteorite variant presents a chaotic, moss-like aesthetic where the crystalline structures catch the light in uneven, fascinating ways. The color is not a flat pigment but appears to have depth, resembling a dark forest canopy viewed from above or the algae-covered rocks of a seabed. The metallic inclusions within the stone flash against the green treatment, offering a visual complexity that requires close inspection to fully appreciate. It is a color that feels both terrestrial and alien, bridging the gap between the sea-urchin inspiration of the case and the cosmic origin of the dial material. The texture looks rugged and raw, a stark contrast to the perfect spheres of white gold that surround it.



Conversely, the blue meteorite dial offers a cooler, more steel-like temperament. The blue treatment highlights the jagged, geometric nature of the meteorite's structure, making the striations appear like shattered ice or lightning frozen in stone. This colorway leans more into the "sporty-chic" philosophy mentioned by Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi, pairing exceptionally well with the grey tones of the titanium case. The deep blue hues shift depending on the viewing angle and the ambient light, sometimes appearing almost black and at other times revealing a vibrant azure sparkle. It captures the essence of the night sky or the deep ocean, fitting themes for a watch rooted in both marine inspiration and celestial materials.



Protecting these intricate dials is a sapphire crystal that features a unique construction designed to play with optical perception. While the exterior surface of the crystal is curved to follow the dome-like shape of the case, the interior surface is faceted with the signature octagonal shape associated with the brand. This internal faceting creates a distortion effect, bending the light and the view of the meteorite dial beneath it. It adds a layer of depth and complexity, ensuring that the dial is never seen as a flat image but rather as a three-dimensional landscape. This design choice rewards the wearer for looking at the watch from oblique angles, revealing different facets of the meteorite texture through the prismatic effect of the crystal.



Legibility remains a priority despite the artistic complexity of the dial and case. The hands are crafted from solid gold, polished and rounded to catch the light against the textured background of the meteorite. They are simple baton shapes, avoiding unnecessary ornamentation that would clutter the view of the stone. To ensure functionality in low-light conditions, the dial features markers filled with Super-LumiNova. In a nod to Mr. Genta's personal preferences, the luminous material has a subtle pink hue. This delicate touch of color adds warmth to the otherwise cool tones of the titanium and meteorite, providing a soft contrast that is both functional and historically significant to the brand's DNA.



Comfort and wearability are addressed through the integration of a custom rubber strap, designed specifically to complement the Oursin's unique case geometry. The strap is not a standard flat piece of rubber; it features a textured pattern of raised bumps that echo the white gold beads on the case. This continuation of the design language creates a seamless visual flow from the watch head to the wrist. The rubber material is practical for daily wear, offering resistance to water and sweat, which aligns with the watch's 50-meter water resistance rating. The lug width creates a taper from 19mm down to 16mm, ensuring the watch sits securely and balanced on the wrist despite the larger 41mm head.



Powering the Gentissima Oursin 41 is the Zenith Elite GG-005 caliber, a self-winding mechanical movement that provides a reliable foundation for the watch's timekeeping duties. The choice of a Zenith Elite base is a statement of quality, as this movement is well-regarded for its slim profile and durability. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of approximately 50 hours, making it suitable for a rotation in a collection where it might be set down for a day or two without stopping. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, allowing the owner to view the mechanical heartbeat of the timepiece.



The view through the caseback is dominated by a redesigned oscillating mass, crafted from 18k yellow gold. This rotor is not a standard component but has been customized to match the aesthetic of the Oursin collection. It features a pattern of circular cutouts and reliefs that mimic the beaded texture of the case and strap, creating a cohesive design theme that permeates every aspect of the watch, front and back. The contrast of the yellow gold rotor against the industrial finish of the movement bridges the gap between mechanical utility and jewelry design, reinforcing the "chic" element of the watch's positioning. The movement comprises 158 components and maintains a relatively slender thickness of 3.88mm, contributing to the overall case thickness of 9.84mm.



This sub-10mm thickness is a crucial specification for a watch with such a bold visual presence. A 41mm watch with this level of external ornamentation could easily become bulky or unwieldy, but by keeping the profile slim, the Oursin 41 retains a level of sophistication that allows it to slide under a cuff. The sandblasted titanium grade 5 material contributes significantly here as well; a steel watch with this many added gold elements would be noticeably heavy, but the titanium keeps the weight manageable, adhering to the principles of modern luxury where comfort is as important as visual impact.



The target audience for these new releases is identified as the "audacious collector," someone who is not looking for a traditional dress watch or a standard diver. The design is polarizing by nature; the studded case is unconventional and unapologetically decorative. However, by moving to a 41mm size and incorporating meteorite dials, the brand is signaling that this design is not gender-specific but rather style-specific. It appeals to those who view horology as a form of artistic expression and are willing to wear a piece that invites conversation and perhaps even debate. The masculine interpretation of the "sea urchin" concept takes what could be a delicate jewelry watch and transforms it into a rugged, industrial artifact.



The interplay of shapes—the round case, the octagonal inner profile, the spherical beads, and the chaotic lines of the meteorite—creates a watch that is constantly active visually. There is no negative space on the Gentissima Oursin 41; every millimeter is utilized to convey texture or structure. This aligns with the legacy of Gerald Genta, who was never known for minimalism but rather for breaking conventions and reshaping the geometry of watchmaking. The Oursin 41 respects that legacy not by copying his most famous integrated bracelet sports watches, but by reviving one of his more personal, whimsical designs and executing it with modern high-horology standards.



Both the Blue Meteorite and Green Meteorite versions of the Gerald Genta Gentissima Oursin 41 are priced at 25,000 CHF, excluding taxes. This price point positions the watch in a competitive segment of the luxury market, competing with other high-design independent creations and established haute horlogerie manufactures. The watches are available through authorized retail channels associated with the brand. Given the natural variations inherent in meteorite dials, prospective buyers should anticipate that each piece will essentially be a unique work of art, with no two dials sharing the exact same cosmic patterning.



Case: 41mm diameter, 9.84mm thickness; sandblasted Grade 5 titanium set with 234 white gold beads; white gold crown with polished cabochon; sapphire crystal curved on the outside and faceted with an octagonal shape on the inside; transparent sapphire caseback; 50m water resistance.

Movement: Caliber GG-005 (Zenith Elite base); automatic self-winding; 18k yellow gold redesigned oscillating mass; 50-hour power reserve; 4 Hz frequency; 25.6mm diameter; 3.88mm thickness; 158 components.

Dial: Available in Green or Blue meteorite; solid gold polished and rounded hands; white decalque indexes with Super-LumiNova; luminous 5-minute markers with a subtle pink hue.

Strap: Green or Blue rubber strap with raised texture; 19mm lug width tapering to 16mm.

Price: 25,000 CHF (excl. Taxes)

Notes: The design was originally inspired by a sea urchin found by Gerald Genta in Corsica in 1994; the use of natural meteorite ensures the crystalline structure of every dial is unique; designed and assembled in-house by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.