In the realm of high-complication watchmaking, few mechanisms capture the imagination quite like the minute repeater. It is a function that transcends the visual, transforming the measurement of time into an audible, melodic experience. For the famed designer Gérald Genta, this complication was not merely a technical challenge but a personal passion. The relaunch of his namesake brand now pays tribute to that legacy with the introduction of the Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater, a timepiece unveiled for Geneva Watch Days 2025 that encapsulates the designer's artistic spirit and technical ambition in a modern, refined form.
This new creation is a thoughtful study in contrasts, balancing a powerful mechanical heart with a soft, sculptural exterior. It represents a direct link to the historical work of Mr. Genta, who, during the 1980s, was one of the few watchmakers championing the complex art of chiming watches. At a time when the industry was captivated by quartz technology, Genta dedicated himself to perfecting this most traditional of complications, creating not only standard repeaters but also innovating with automatic and water-resistant versions, even integrating the function with a perpetual calendar. His core belief was that the quality of the sound was paramount, a goal he pursued through meticulous case design.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The modern Gérald Genta brand, under the stewardship of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, has embraced this philosophy wholeheartedly. The Geneva Minute Repeater is not a reissue but a re-imagination, built upon the foundational principles that guided its namesake. Master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, alongside Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi, started with a clean slate to develop a watch that honors the past while confidently looking forward. The result is a highly exclusive piece, limited to just 10 examples per year, designed for the discerning collector who appreciates both mechanical ingenuity and artistic expression.
The case of the Minute Repeater is perhaps its most immediately striking feature. Moving away from the sharp, octagonal geometry for which Genta is most famous, this new shape is a softer, cushion-like form. Crafted from 3N yellow gold, the 40mm case feels organic and balanced, free of any harsh edges. According to Matthieu Hegi, the design was intended to capture the "intuitive, instinctive genius and artistry of Mr. Genta." It’s an evolution of his design language, translating the bold spirit of his earlier work into a form that emphasizes proportion and a gentle, flowing aesthetic.
A closer examination of the case reveals a sophisticated interplay of finishes that enhances its sculptural quality. The case middle features a fine satin-brushed surface, which provides a soft, matte contrast to the brightly polished elements. Most notable are the double gadroons that frame the case, a signature Genta detail, which are rendered here in polished gold. This contrast creates the illusion of a slimmer profile and adds a layer of visual depth. The trigger for the minute repeater, located on the left side of the case, is itself a piece of refined engineering. It is remarkably thin and polished, seamlessly following the contours of the case, yet remains tactile and easy to engage.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Further contributing to the unique profile is the single-lug design. Instead of traditional lugs extending from the case, a central attachment point connects the strap, a nod to historical Genta pieces. This design choice makes the black leather strap appear as a natural extension of the case itself, reinforcing the cohesiveness of the overall form. The crown, small and proportionally balanced, is finished with a fine cannelure and topped with a black onyx cabochon, a detail that echoes the material of the dial and adds a touch of precious refinement to the watch's architecture.
The dial is a testament to the power of minimalism and material choice. Forgoing a standard lacquer finish, the brand opted for a deep, lustrous black onyx. This was a deliberate decision, honoring Mr. Genta’s own historical preference for using hardstone dials, which lend an unmatched depth and intensity of color. The mirror-like surface of the onyx creates a dramatic backdrop for the polished 3N yellow gold hands and indices. The hands are slender and rounded, terminating in a subtle arrow tip, while the applied hour markers are simple, polished batons that catch the light with every movement of the wrist.
The most inventive aspect of the dial, however, is the minute track. It is a feature that plays with perception and subtly reinforces the watch’s unique case shape. Matthieu Hegi describes it as "the very core of the watch's design." The track is composed of two segments; the inner portion, to which the hour indices point, forms a perfect circle. The outer portion, however, subtly expands to follow the cushioned contour of the case. This clever design creates a fascinating visual effect, making the viewer question if the dial is truly round. It’s a transformative detail that mixes shapes and introduces an architectural softness to the dial.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
At the heart of the Geneva Minute Repeater beats the Caliber GG-002, a manual-winding movement developed entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps. This caliber is the modern embodiment of Genta's passion for chiming mechanisms. The assembly of a single movement is an arduous process, requiring more than four weeks of dedicated work by a single watchmaker. The primary focus for Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas was achieving exceptional acoustic performance. Every component of the chiming system, from the stainless steel hammers to the gongs, has been optimized for sound.
The pursuit of the perfect chime is an art form in itself. Each gong is tuned by hand and by ear, a meticulous process of cutting and adjusting the components to find the ideal vibration and amplitude. The gongs are then affixed directly to the case, a technique used to maximize the propagation of sound, allowing the entire watch to act as a resonance chamber. The repeater utilizes a traditional gong with a single revolution, which produces a chime that is noted for its exceptional clarity and high volume, making it easily audible on the wrist.
The finishing of the Caliber GG-002 is executed to the highest standards of traditional Haute Horlogerie, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes, all angles are carefully hand-beveled, and the base plate features a fine snailing detail. As a subtle homage to Mr. Genta, the inertia wheel of the balance has been crafted in an octagonal shape, his favorite geometric form. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the movement is technically robust, offering a substantial 80-hour power reserve and operating at a frequency of 3Hz. A special bar click was incorporated into the winding mechanism to provide a unique and satisfying tactile feedback for the owner.
The engineering of the case is inextricably linked to the performance of the movement within. To create an object that chimes with such clarity, the case was conceived as a musical instrument. One of the most remarkable achievements is its thinness, measuring just 9.60mm thick. This slender profile was a primary objective, intended to ensure the watch wears comfortably and retains a sense of refinement, despite its mechanical complexity.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Achieving this required pushing the boundaries of case construction. The case walls were made as thin as possible, measuring as little as 0.6mm in certain areas. Even the sapphire crystal was reduced in thickness, from a typical 1mm down to 0.8mm. As Michel Navas explained, the small size of the watch offered very little leeway for sound propagation, necessitating these careful optimizations to the case's internal architecture. Every element was designed to allow the chime to "breathe" and resonate with maximum sonority.
The choice of 3N yellow gold was also a critical factor in the acoustic equation. Beyond its visual appeal, which Matthieu Hegi connects to a "sunshine and the Mediterranean spirit," yellow gold is an ideal material for amplifying the sound of a minute repeater. Its density and material properties contribute to a warmer, richer tone compared to other precious metals. This decision reinforces the core purpose of the watch, where every design choice, from the aesthetic to the material, serves the ultimate goal of creating a beautiful sound.
This thoughtful engineering ensures that the watch is not just a showcase of complexity, but a highly wearable piece of art. The 40mm diameter, combined with its slim profile, allows it to sit comfortably on the wrist. The watch is completed with a supple black sheep leather strap, which measures 20mm at the lugs and tapers to 18mm at the buckle. The strap's integration with the single-lug case design is seamless, creating a unified and flowing line from case to strap.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater is a synthesis of many ideas. It is ambitious in its mechanical scope yet discreet in its presentation. It is architectural in its design yet soft in its execution. It feels connected to a vintage sensibility while being undeniably modern. It is a sophisticated instrument that pays homage to one of watchmaking's most revered figures by focusing on his greatest passion.
Given the immense craftsmanship and complexity involved in its creation, the Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater is a piece of high exclusivity. Production is strictly limited to only 10 pieces per year, ensuring that each watch receives the painstaking attention to detail it requires. This limited availability positions it as a true collector's piece, intended for those who appreciate the convergence of artistry, engineering, and horological history. Pricing information is available upon inquiry, reflecting the bespoke nature of this exceptional creation.
Case: 40mm diameter, 9.60mm thickness; Yellow Gold 3N with brushed and polished surfaces; Crown with onyx cabochon.
Movement: Caliber GG-002, in-house manual-winding minute repeater; 80-hour power reserve; 3Hz (21,600 vph) frequency; 32 jewels.
Dial: Black onyx with polished and rounded 3N yellow gold applied indexes; Polished and rounded 3N yellow gold hands with arrow tips.
Strap: Black sheep leather; 20mm lug width tapering to 18mm.
Price: Upon Request
Notes: Limited production of 10 pieces per year. The case is ultra-thin and specifically engineered to optimize the acoustics of the minute repeater chime. The movement's inertia wheel is octagonal as a tribute to Gérald Genta's favorite shape.