Franck Muller Vanguard Asia Pacific

Franck Muller has long carved out a unique space in the watchmaking industry, often celebrated for its mastery of complex mechanisms and an unmistakable, bold design language. The brand, co-founded by the talented watchmaker Franck Muller and Vartan Sirmakes, quickly established a reputation for avant-garde shapes, particularly the Cintrée Curvex tonneau case that has become a brand signature. This distinctive silhouette, a curved, barrel-shaped housing, rejected the round-watch norm and became a canvas for the brand’s creative and mechanical expressions, from "Crazy Hours" complications to grand tourbillons.



Now, the manufacturer is expanding one of its most contemporary lines with the new Franck Muller Vanguard Asia Pacific Exclusive. This series builds upon the established Vanguard collection, which itself is a more modern, architectural interpretation of the classic tonneau. The Vanguard line is defined by its integrated strap, clean lines, and a robust, sporty feel. This new release, reserved specifically for the Asia Pacific market, introduces a collection of five striking dial variations, all centered around an intricate new dial texture and the high-level craftsmanship Franck Muller is known for.



The case of the Vanguard Asia Pacific Exclusive retains the sculpted, powerful curves that define the collection. Crafted from stainless steel, it presents a substantial but thoughtfully proportioned footprint. The dimensions are listed as 42.5 millimeters in width and 52.7 millimeters in length. While these numbers sound large, the tonneau shape wears differently than a round case, often feeling more ergonomic as it follows the curve of the wrist. The most impressive specification here is the thickness: just 9.3 millimeters. This slim profile is crucial, as it keeps the watch from feeling top-heavy and allows it to sit comfortably for daily wear, balancing its bold presence with wearability.



This Vanguard case is not a simple, polished piece of steel. It features a sophisticated construction, most notably the inserts on both sides of the case. These contrasting elements break up the metalwork and add visual depth. On the navy, grey, green, and black-dialed models, these inserts are black, creating a sharp, modern accent. The brown-dialed model takes a different approach, featuring brown inserts that harmonize with the dial for a warmer, more unified look. The case finishing itself varies slightly; the black-dialed version is noted as having a hand-brushed case and a black PVD-coated buckle, while the brown-dialed model specifies a hand-polished case, suggesting a brighter, more reflective finish.



The case is topped with a sapphire crystal to protect the intricate dial below and is water-resistant up to 30 meters. This level of water resistance is standard for watches of this type, meaning it is protected against splashes, rain, and accidental immersion, but it is not intended for swimming or diving. The crown is a three-position design, allowing for hand-winding in the first position, quick date adjustment in the second, and time-setting in the third, making it straightforward to operate.



The true centerpiece of this new collection is the dial. Franck Muller has introduced an exquisite new motif called guilloché pavé de losanges. This is a deeply geometric pattern of interlocking, diamond-like shapes that covers the main surface of the dial. It is not a simple print; it is a stamped texture that creates a rich, three-dimensional landscape for the other dial elements to sit upon. The faceting of this pattern is designed to capture and reflect light from every conceivable angle, creating a mesmerizing dance as the wrist moves.



This complex dial is not sourced from an outside supplier. It is developed and produced entirely in-house at the Franck Muller dial manufacture located in Les Bois, within Switzerland's Jura region. This demonstrates a significant level of vertical integration and control over the most crucial visual component of the watch. The creation of this pavé de losanges texture is a precise, multi-stage process, requiring four distinct stages of stamping to achieve the desired depth, sharpness, and rich texture.



The geometric pattern of the dial is brilliantly contrasted by the center section, which sits directly beneath the handset. This area features a microblasted sunburst finish. The effect is twofold: it provides a smooth, legible backdrop for the hands, and its fine, radial graining creates a dynamic interplay with the angular guilloché that surrounds it. This textural shift draws the eye inward, enhancing the dial's perceived depth and complexity.



Functionality is cleanly integrated into the design. At the 6 o'clock position, a circular aperture displays the date. This window is framed and highlighted by a small, downward-pointing red arrow, a subtle but sporty touch that adds a splash of color and aids in quick-glance legibility. This placement maintains the dial's symmetry, balancing the brand's logo at the 12 o'clock position.



Of course, no Franck Muller dial would be complete without its signature numerals. The Vanguard Asia Pacific Exclusive features the brand's famous stylized Arabic numerals, which are large, bold, and contour with the tonneau shape of the case. These are not merely printed on the textured dial. Each numeral is a separate component, an applique that has been meticulously hand-painted and then hand-applied to the dial surface. This process is painstaking and requires immense skill, but it results in a dial with incredible dimension, as the numerals appear to float above the geometric pattern below.



The collection is defined by its five distinct color variations, each offering a different character. The navy blue version (V 43 SC DT CLA BU (NR)) is a deep, rich hue that offers a classic and versatile look. The vibrant green (V 43 SC DT CLA VR (NR)) is arguably the most striking, with a saturated, modern color that fully highlights the dial's light-playing texture. The grey dial (V 43 SC DT CLA ARD (NR)) is an understated and sophisticated option, appearing as a bluish-grey that provides a softer, more technical feel.



The final two colors offer distinct personalities. The bold black (V 43 SC DT CLA NR (NR)) version feels the most contemporary and almost tactical, especially when paired with its brushed case and black PVD buckle. In contrast, the refined brown (V 43 SC DT CLA BN (BN)) model projects a warm, almost vintage-inspired character. This version is unique in the collection for its pairing with brown case inserts, creating a cohesive, earth-toned aesthetic.



Powering this new collection is the Franck Muller MVT 2536-SCDT. This is a self-winding, bidirectional automatic movement, meaning its rotor winds the mainspring efficiently regardless of which direction it spins. It is a workhorse caliber built for reliability and precision, serving as the engine for the hours, minutes, seconds, and date functions.



The movement provides a power reserve of 42 hours, which is a solid standard for a modern automatic watch, allowing it to be set down for a day and a half without needing to be rewound. It operates at a balance wheel frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz. This high-frequency beat rate ensures a smooth, sweeping motion for the seconds hand and contributes to the watch's timekeeping accuracy.



The caliber itself is composed of 191 individual components. Despite its automatic winding system, it maintains a slim profile with a diameter of 25.6 millimeters and a thickness of just 3.6 millimeters. This slimness is a key factor in achieving the watch's slender 9.3-millimeter overall case height. Franck Muller has ensured it is finished to a high standard, reflecting a commitment to quality that extends to the parts you don't see. The provided decoration list is extensive and indicative of traditional Swiss watchmaking.



This finishing includes Côtes de Genève, or Geneva stripes, adorning the bridges and the rotor plate, creating a beautiful, wave-like pattern. Perlage, a circular-graining pattern, is applied to the mainplate. The rotor board features beveling, while the sinks and bridge bevels receive a high-shine diamond polishing.



The decoration continues with sunray brushing on the bridges, rotor segment, bearing cage, and barrel cover, creating a radial light-play. Finally, snailing, a spiral pattern, is applied to the ratchets. This comprehensive suite of decorations demonstrates a thorough attention to detail that goes far beyond what is necessary for simple function.



Each timepiece in the Vanguard Asia Pacific Exclusive collection is paired with a hand-sewn alligator leather strap. The exterior provides the classic, luxurious look of alligator hide, with stitching that often complements the dial color—such as green stitching on the green-dial model's strap or blue on the blue-dial model. This premium material is backed by a rubber lining. This is a highly practical choice, especially for the humid climates of the Asia Pacific region, as the rubber lining enhances comfort and provides a durable, moisture-resistant barrier against the skin.



The strap integrates seamlessly with the Vanguard case, a design hallmark that eliminates traditional lugs for a flowing, unified silhouette. The strap is secured with a stainless steel buckle, which is brushed and given a black PVD coating for the black-dialed model to ensure the entire watch maintains its cohesive, dark aesthetic.



As the name explicitly states, the new Franck Muller Vanguard Asia Pacific Exclusive collection is available only in the Asia Pacific region. This makes it a special release targeted at a key market for the brand. The five dial colors offer a range of expressions, from the understated grey to the vibrant green. Franck Muller has not provided public pricing for these models; pricing and availability details will be managed through the brand's network of authorized boutiques and retail partners within the designated Asia Pacific countries.



Case: Stainless steel Vanguard case. Width: 42.5 mm, Length: 52.7 mm, Thickness: 9.3 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 30 meters. Features black or brown inserts on both sides of the case.

Movement: MVT 2536-SCDT. Bidirectional automatic movement. 42 hours power reserve. 191 components. Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour. Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date at 6 o'clock.

Dial: Stamped guilloché pavé de losanges with microblasted sunburst center. Applique numerals meticulously painted and applied by hand. Available in navy, grey, green, black, and brown.

Strap: Hand-sewn alligator strap with rubber lining. Stainless steel buckle (brushed with black PVD coating on black-dial model).

Reference Number: V 43 SC DT CLA ARD (NR) (Grey), V 43 SC DT CLA BN (BN) (Brown), V 43 SC DT CLA BU (NR) (Blue), V 43 SC DT CLA NR (NR) (Black), V 43 SC DT CLA VR (NR) (Green)

Notes: This collection is exclusive to the Asia Pacific region. The intricate guilloché pavé de losanges dial is created through four stages of stamping and is produced entirely in-house at the Franck Muller dial manufacture.