To master the force that governs our universe is an ambition that has driven horologists for centuries. Gravity, while essential for keeping our feet on the ground, has historically been the nemesis of the mechanical escapement. When a watch sits in a single position, gravity pulls on the delicate hairspring and balance wheel, creating friction and rate errors that accumulate over time. The tourbillon was invented to counter this by rotating the escapement, averaging out these errors. However, the traditional tourbillon was conceived for a pocket watch, which largely remained in a vertical position within a gentleman's vest. The wrist is a far more chaotic environment, moving through three-dimensional space with unpredictable dynamism. To address this complex challenge,
Franck Muller did not simply refine the existing solution; they revolutionized it entirely with the Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton, a mechanism that corrects for gravity not just in one plane, but across all positions.
The specific iteration we are examining here, the Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Ruby, is a "one and only" execution that amplifies the mechanical prowess of the movement with a visually arresting exterior. This timepiece was unveiled to mark a significant moment for the brand's footprint in Asia, specifically the opening of a new boutique in Hong Kong’s prestigious IFC Mall. It is a singular creation that marries the high-concept engineering of the "Master of Complications" with the opulent art of high jewelry setting. The immediate visual impact is one of intense, saturation-heavy color. The case is not merely accented with precious stones; it is entirely armored in them. A total of 28.4 carats of baguette-cut rubies have been employed to shroud the 18k white gold framework, creating a seamless facade of crimson that interacts aggressively with light.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The technique used to set these gemstones is known as the invisible setting, a method that is notoriously difficult and time-consuming to execute. Unlike traditional settings where prongs or bezels are visible to hold the stones in place, the invisible setting relies on a hidden structure. Each baguette ruby must be grooved precisely to slide onto a metal rail underneath. When done correctly, as seen on this Vanguard case, the result is an uninterrupted surface of gemstone. There is no metal breaking the visual continuity between the rubies, giving the impression that the watch is carved from a single, massive crystal. The geometric precision of the baguette cuts complements the architectural lines of the case, creating a grid-like texture that feels modern and industrial despite the traditional preciousness of the material.
The case itself adheres to the celebrated Vanguard silhouette, a shape that has become synonymous with Franck Muller’s modern identity. It is a tonneau form, but one that has been pumped up with volume and aggressive curvature. The dimensions are imposing, measuring 46 millimeters in width, 55.9 millimeters in length, and standing 16 millimeters tall. This is not a timepiece designed to slip discreetly under a dress cuff; it is a sculptural object intended to dominate the wrist. The curvature of the case back is critical to the wearability of such a large object. By arcing the entire case structure, Franck Muller ensures that the watch wraps around the wrist rather than sitting atop it like a flat brick. This ergonomic consideration allows the massive case to wear more comfortably than the raw numbers might suggest.
Beneath the sapphire crystal, which is domed to accommodate the height of the multi-axis mechanism, lies the skeletonized MVT FM 2030-SMR-VS caliber. The term "skeleton" here implies a stripping away of all extraneous material, leaving only the structural load-bearing bridges and the functional components of the gear train. The mainplate and bridges have been open-worked to reveal the inner workings of the machine. The finish on these components is exemplary, featuring a mix of sunray brushing, circular satin finishing on the wheels, and hand-beveling on the regulator assembly. The dark, rhodium-plated tones of the movement provide a high-contrast background that allows the ruby-encrusted case to pop, while also ensuring the silver-toned moving parts remain legible.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The star of the show is, without question, the triple-axis tourbillon located at the bottom half of the dial. Most tourbillons rotate on a single axis. Some rare high-complication pieces rotate on two. The Revolution 3 features three separate carriages, each rotating at a different speed. The innermost carriage, housing the balance wheel, completes a full rotation every 60 seconds. This is nested within an intermediate carriage that rotates once every eight minutes. Finally, these two are carried by an outer carriage that makes a full revolution every hour. This complex dance ensures that the balance wheel is never in a static position relative to gravity, theoretically cancelling out rate errors regardless of how the wearer's wrist is positioned.
Visually, this mechanism is mesmerizing. The sheer depth of the tourbillon aperture draws the eye inward. It looks less like a watch movement and more like a gyroscope or a celestial instrument suspended in space. The construction requires 461 individual components, a staggering number for a manual-wind movement, indicating the complexity of the transmission required to drive three separate axes. The energy required to move this mass is significant, yet Franck Muller has engineered the system to maintain a robust frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). The slower beat rate is often preferred in large tourbillons as it reduces wear and allows for a more visually distinct oscillation of the balance wheel.
Powering this kinetic sculpture is a manual-winding system that offers a truly impressive power reserve. Typically, multi-axis tourbillons are power-hungry beasts that struggle to run for more than a couple of days. The Revolution 3, however, boasts a massive 10-day power reserve. This is achieved through the use of twin barrels that store enough elastic potential energy to drive the heavy tourbillon cages for over a week. A power reserve indicator is situated at the 12 o'clock position, allowing the owner to track the remaining energy. This is a practical necessity for a manual-wind watch with such a long reserve, ensuring that the user knows exactly when it is time to interact with the crown.
The dial layout also features two retrograde displays at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. These are not for telling the time, but rather for tracking the progression of the tourbillon carriages. They act as visual confirmations of the mechanism's operation, with hands that sweep across a scale before jumping back to zero. This adds another layer of animation to the dial, ensuring that there is always movement occurring, even if the minute hand moves slowly. The time itself is displayed via off-centered hands that float above the barrel bridge. The hands are skeletonized and tipped with luminous material, and likely color-matched to the ruby theme in this specific execution, providing just enough contrast against the dark mechanical background to be readable.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The crown of the watch is another element where design meets function. It is a dual-position crown, used for both winding the massive mainsprings and setting the time. On this ruby edition, the crown is also set with a gemstone cabochon or pave, continuing the jeweled theme. The tactile experience of winding a watch with a 10-day reserve is significant; there is a satisfying resistance and mechanical feedback that connects the wearer to the energy storage of the device. The lack of a traditional date function keeps the dial focused purely on the time and the tourbillon, avoiding clutter that would detract from the skeletonized aesthetic.
The strap integration is another hallmark of the Vanguard line. Traditional lugs are abandoned in favor of a seamless flow where the strap inserts directly into the case body. It is held in place by two screws which are hidden from view, creating a clean silhouette. For this specific ruby model, the strap is crafted from alligator leather, likely with a rubber lining for longevity and comfort against the skin. The black leather serves as a grounding element, preventing the all-red watch from becoming overwhelming. It is secured by an 18k white gold buckle, which itself would be finished to the same high standards as the case, potentially featuring diamond or ruby accents to match, though the primary focus remains on the case body.
The "Revolution 3" nomenclature is proudly displayed on the dial, a reminder of the heritage of this complication. Franck Muller has a history of pushing the envelope with "Revolution" models, with the Revolution 1 and 2 preceding this tri-axial achievement. This lineage speaks to a persistent desire to solve the problem of gravity in increasingly complex ways. The transition from the single axis of the Revolution 1 to the triple axis of the Revolution 3 represents years of R&D and a refusal to accept the status quo of horological engineering. It is this spirit of "Revolution" that defines the brand's best work.
The creation of this specific ruby-set piece for the IFC Mall boutique opening highlights the importance of the Hong Kong market to the Swiss watch industry. Collaborating with Cortina Watch, a major retailer in the region, Franck Muller has dedicated this unique piece to a clientele that appreciates both extreme mechanics and extreme rarity. The boutique itself, designed with a blend of Art Deco and contemporary elements, provides the stage for such a piece. The watch is not just a product; it is a symbol of the relationship between the manufacture in Geneva and the collectors in Asia.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
From a technical finishing standpoint, the movement is a showcase of traditional Swiss decoration applied to a modernist architecture. The bridges are chamfered, with the edges polished to catch the light. The surfaces feature different textures—drawing, snailing, and diamond polishing—to create contrast and depth. Even the parts that are hidden deep within the movement, such as the ratchets and the barrel cover, have been decorated. This attention to detail is what separates Haute Horlogerie from standard mechanical watchmaking. The fact that this is an in-house movement, developed and assembled at Watchland in Genthod, adds to its provenance.
The use of 18k white gold for the case material is a strategic choice. While platinum would have added even more weight to an already substantial watch, white gold offers the perfect balance of preciousness and structural integrity needed to hold the invisible setting rails. The rhodium plating on the gold ensures a brilliant white finish that disappears between the rubies, enhancing the "floating" effect of the stones. Black inserts on the side of the case add a sporty, aggressive touch, breaking up the volume and reinforcing the Vanguard's automotive-inspired aesthetic.
Water resistance is rated at 30 meters. While this is technically a sports-shaped watch, the lack of higher water resistance is expected for a high-complication tourbillon with such intricate gem-setting. This is not a watch for swimming; it is a watch for making an entrance. The 30-meter rating is sufficient to protect the movement from humidity and accidental splashes, which is all that is required for a timepiece of this caliber. The sapphire crystals on both the front and back are treated with anti-reflective coating, ensuring that the view of the skeletonized movement and the tourbillon is not obscured by glare.
The visual experience of the tourbillon in motion cannot be overstated. With three axes of rotation, the balance wheel is constantly tumbling, turning, and pivoting. It is a chaotic yet rhythmic motion that brings the watch to life. In a standard tourbillon, the cage spins on a single plane, which can become repetitive. In the Revolution 3, the changing angles of the cages mean that the view of the mechanism is different every time you look at it. One moment you are looking at the edge of the balance wheel, the next you are looking at its face. This dynamic display is the ultimate expression of the "art of movement."
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The exclusivity of this timepiece is absolute. It is a "one and only" creation, meaning that there is no other watch in the world exactly like it. For a collector, this uniqueness is the ultimate luxury. It guarantees that when they walk into a room, they are wearing something that no one else can possess. The combination of the triple-axis complication—a rare feat in itself—with the bespoke ruby setting makes it a museum-quality piece.
Pricing and availability for the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Ruby are as exclusive as the watch itself. As a unique piece created specifically to celebrate the opening of the Franck Muller boutique at the IFC Mall in Hong Kong, it is not a standard catalog item that can be ordered from any dealer. While the standard Revolution 3 models command prices well into the six figures, the addition of over 28 carats of invisible-set rubies and its status as a unique piece would undoubtedly place its value significantly higher. It is available exclusively through the partnership with Cortina Watch at the new flagship location, destined for a collector who seeks the pinnacle of mechanical complexity wrapped in an exterior of uncompromising brilliance.
Case: 46 mm width x 55.9 mm length x 16 mm thickness, 18k white gold tonneau "Vanguard" shape, invisible setting with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut rubies, black inserts on both sides, sapphire crystals front and back, water resistant to 30 meters.
Movement: In-house MVT FM 2030-SMR-VS, manual winding, world's first skeletonised triple-axis tourbillon, 10-day power reserve, 18,000 vph (2.5Hz), 461 components, twin barrels, mirror polished and hand-beveled finishing.
Dial: Skeletonised display, off-centered hands for hours and minutes, retrograde indicators for tourbillon cage progression at 3 and 9 o'clock, power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, luminous hands.
Strap: Hand-sewn alligator leather integrated strap with 18k white gold buckle.
Price: Price on Request (Unique Piece).
Reference Number: V 50 REV 3 PR SQT INV RU (NR)
Notes: A unique "one and only" piece created for the opening of the Franck Muller boutique at IFC Mall in Hong Kong. Features a triple-axis tourbillon correcting gravity in all positions (1 minute, 8 minute, and 60 minute rotation cycles) and is set with over 28 carats of invisible-set rubies.