Formex Essence Ceramica

Formex has continued its trajectory of blending high-performance engineering with accessible Swiss watchmaking through the expansion of its Essence Ceramica collection. Following the debut of a skeletonized version earlier in the year, the brand now introduces four new models featuring the collection's signature solid dials. These additions pair the advanced material properties and intricate finishing of a full zirconium oxide ceramic case and bracelet with the established aesthetic of the Essence line. The release also marks a significant development for the brand's mechanical offerings, as these watches are among the first to house a new bespoke caliber, co-developed with the Swiss movement manufacturer Soprod, which is both COSC-certified and Chronofiable®-tested for durability. This move solidifies the collection's position as a serious contender in the competitive landscape of ceramic sports watches.

The company's history, which began in 2000, is rooted in the world of high-performance motorsports, a connection that has informed its design philosophy from the outset. The name itself, a portmanteau of the French words "FORMe EXtrême" or "extreme shape," speaks to this heritage. This background instilled a focus on durability, precision, and ergonomics, leading to innovations like the brand's patented Case Suspension System. After a revitalization in 2016 under the leadership of CEO Raphaël Granito, Formex leveraged unique vertical integration opportunities. Through family ownership of Dexel, a specialist in watch cases and bracelets, and Cadranor, a high-end dial maker, the brand gained direct access to decades of manufacturing expertise. This synergy is particularly evident in the Essence Ceramica, where the complex task of machining and finishing one of watchmaking's most challenging materials is executed with a high degree of proficiency.



At the core of the Essence Ceramica is its namesake material, zirconium oxide ceramic. This advanced compound offers a distinct set of advantages over traditional stainless steel. It is approximately seven times harder than steel, granting it exceptional resistance to scratches and daily wear. This durability ensures that the watch's intricate finishing remains pristine over time. The material is also about 30% lighter than steel, which, combined with its thermally adaptive properties, translates to a more comfortable experience on the wrist, as it doesn't feel cold or heavy like metal can. Furthermore, ceramic is hypoallergenic, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin, and completely amagnetic, which helps protect the mechanical movement from interference. Its color is also impervious to UV radiation, meaning the deep black of the case and bracelet will not fade or discolor over time.

Mastering ceramic is not merely about using the material, but about manipulating its surface to create visual interest. Formex has applied a combination of vertical brushing on the flat surfaces and diamond-polishing on the bevels of both the case and bracelet. Achieving these contrasting finishes on a material as hard as zirconium oxide requires specialized diamond tooling and a multi-stage process that is far more demanding than finishing steel. The result is a dynamic interplay of light; the brushed areas absorb light to appear as a rich, matte black, while the polished facets catch it, creating sharp, reflective highlights that articulate the watch's geometry. This sophisticated finishing elevates the material beyond a simple utilitarian choice, giving the watch a commanding presence that shifts with every movement of the wrist.

The case itself measures a versatile 41mm in diameter, with a height of 11.2mm and a compact lug-to-lug distance of 46.2mm, making it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. Integrated into its construction is the brand's signature patented Case Suspension System. This system, inspired by the suspension on racing cars and high-performance bikes, incorporates four small springs between the main case and the lug structure. This mechanism allows the watch head to move slightly, absorbing shocks and impacts to protect the delicate automatic movement inside. It also enhances wearing comfort by allowing the case to adapt to the wearer's wrist movements, creating a snug and secure fit. For the ceramic model, this system was carefully re-engineered to function within the constraints of the new material.



An often-overlooked but significant engineering challenge in ceramic watchmaking is the implementation of a screw-down crown. The brittleness of ceramic makes machining precise threads extremely difficult, and achieving the tight tolerances necessary for water resistance is a notable feat. Formex successfully engineered a screw-down crown for the Essence Ceramica, ensuring a water resistance of 100 meters, which makes the watch suitable for swimming and other water-related activities. This commitment to functionality demonstrates a refusal to compromise on the practical aspects of a daily-wear sports watch, even when working with a demanding material.

The new additions to the collection are defined by their dials, which now bring the classic Essence look to the ceramic platform. Four distinct colorways are offered, each with its own character. The dials are distinguished by their precisely CNC-milled horizontal lines, a feature that creates a sense of texture and depth. This process results in sharp, 90-degree grooves that interact with light, a more complex alternative to the stamping method used for many textured dials. The applied indices are multi-faceted, and both the indices and hands are filled with BGW9 Super-LumiNova for legibility in low-light conditions. In a subtle refinement, the "Swiss Made" designation has been moved to the chapter ring, or rehaut, allowing the horizontal pattern to extend uninterrupted across the entire dial surface.

The "Gamaret" model features a dial inspired by a Swiss wine grape, with a hand-applied gradient that is bright red at the center and darkens towards the periphery. This vibrant tone provides a strong contrast against the black ceramic case and bracelet, creating a bold and expressive look. The "Dégradé" dial offers a more subdued character, with a warm brown sunburst finish that transitions from a silvery hue at the center to nearly black at the edges. This colorway blends almost seamlessly with the ceramic case, giving the watch a sense of integrated depth and sophistication.



The "Blue" dial, a popular choice in the steel Essence collection, showcases a distinct vertical brushing that becomes most apparent in direct light. Its color shifts from a deep navy to almost black depending on the lighting conditions, giving it a dynamic and versatile quality. Finally, the "Arctic White" version provides the highest contrast. Its crisp white lacquer dial is set against the black case, hands, and indices for immediate, at-a-glance legibility. The gunmetal finish of the hands and markers appears black in most light but reveals polished bevels when the light catches them at the right angle.

Powering the Essence Ceramica is a new movement resulting from a partnership with Soprod. The caliber, the Newton P092, was co-developed to meet Formex's specifications. The architecture was chosen for its symmetrical layout, which places the balance wheel at the 6 o'clock position under a transverse bridge. This design enhances shock and vibration resistance, complementing the protective qualities of the Case Suspension System. The movement is also equipped with Incabloc's double-cone shock absorber for additional durability.

The finishing of the movement was designed in-house by Formex to reflect a modern aesthetic. It features laser-textured grainé bridges with a galvanic black-gold treatment, vertically brushed edges, and traditional thermally blued screws for a touch of color. The rotor is skeletonized with an open-worked Formex emblem and finished with a bold sunburst pattern, all of which is visible through the sapphire exhibition caseback. This level of decoration is a significant step for the brand and adds considerable visual appeal.



Each movement undergoes a dual-validation process that goes beyond standard certification. First, it is subjected to Chronofiable® endurance testing at the Dubois Laboratory in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This involves a series of tests that simulate accelerated aging, including exposure to extreme temperature and humidity cycles and 20,000 shocks of varying intensity. After passing these trials, the movement is then sent to the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) for official chronometer certification. This 15-day process tests the movement's timekeeping accuracy in five positions and at three different temperatures, with only those that maintain an average daily rate of -4 to +6 seconds earning the chronometer designation.

Perhaps one of the most significant innovations of the Essence Ceramica is found in its bracelet clasp. The watch is equipped with what Formex has introduced as the world's first micro-adjustable ceramic clasp. This is a groundbreaking development, as creating such a complex, functional mechanism from ceramic is extraordinarily difficult. The patented system allows for 5mm of on-the-fly adjustment in 1.5mm increments. The adjustment can be made while the watch is on the wrist and with the clasp closed, providing a perfect fit as the wrist expands or contracts throughout the day.



The full ceramic bracelet itself continues the finishing of the case, with brushed links and polished bevels that create a cohesive and visually engaging look. It tapers from 22mm at the lugs to 20mm at the clasp, contributing to a comfortable wearing experience. The bracelet also features a quick-release system, allowing it to be swapped for other strap options without the need for tools.

For those who prefer alternative straps, Formex offers a range of leather, rubber, and nylon options that can be purchased separately. These straps are fitted with the brand's patented carbon fiber composite deployant clasp. This lightweight clasp also includes a fine-adjustment system, offering up to 7mm of gradual adjustment that can also be operated while the watch is being worn. This commitment to adjustability across all strap and bracelet options underscores the brand's focus on user comfort and practicality.

The sum of these parts results in a watch that is both technically impressive and highly wearable. The combination of the lightweight ceramic material, the shock-absorbing Case Suspension System, and the precision fit afforded by the micro-adjustable clasp creates an experience that is tailored to comfort and daily use. The intricate finishing of the ceramic and the detailed dials provide a level of visual sophistication that allows the watch to transition easily between casual and more formal settings.



The Formex Essence Ceramica collection with solid dials is priced at $3,690. Pre-orders began on September 25, 2025, with the first deliveries scheduled for the end of October 2025. This pricing positions the watch competitively, offering a feature set—including a full ceramic construction, a dual-certified bespoke movement, and a world-first clasp system—that is often found at a much higher price point. By leveraging its unique manufacturing relationships, Formex has delivered a product that pushes technical boundaries while adhering to its core principle of providing engineered, high-performance watches to a broader community of enthusiasts.

Case: Zirconium Oxide Ceramic (Zr2) case and bezel; 41mm diameter, 11.2mm height, 46.2mm lug-to-lug, 22mm lug width. Features patented Case Suspension System, screw-down crown, and sapphire crystal on front and back. Water resistant to 100 meters (10 bar).

Movement: Swiss Made Soprod Newton P092 self-winding caliber. Officially certified by COSC and Chronofiable®-tested. Features 23 jewels, 44 hours power reserve, custom skeleton rotor, and a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz).

Dial: Available in Blue, Arctic White, Dégradé, and Gamaret. Features CNC-milled horizontal lines, applied indices, and BGW9 Super-LumiNova on hands and indices.

Strap: Zirconium Oxide Ceramic (Zr2) solid-link bracelet with a quick-release system. Features the world’s first patented micro-adjustable ceramic clasp allowing 5mm of on-the-fly adjustment.

Price: $3,690.00

Reference Number: 0336.4.6631.410 (Blue), 0336.4.6612.410 (Arctic White), 0336.4.6624.410 (Dégradé), 0336.4.6651.410 (Gamaret)

Notes: This watch features the world's first micro-adjustable ceramic clasp, allowing for on-the-fly sizing. The case integrates Formex’s patented Case Suspension System for shock absorption, and the Soprod movement is dual-certified for both accuracy (COSC) and durability (Chronofiable®).