In the continuous refinement of a product line, there are moments of incremental change and moments of significant evolution. Formex has just introduced a collection that manages to be both. The new Essence FortyOne series takes the foundation of a popular, sold-out limited edition and establishes it as a permanent and thoroughly upgraded chapter in the brand’s catalog. By introducing four distinct dial variations within a newly proportioned 41mm case, Formex is not just filling a size gap; it's demonstrating a commitment to engineering advancement and a keen awareness of its community's feedback.
Formex, a name derived from the French phrase "FORMe EXtrême" or "extreme shape," has roots deeply planted in the world of high-performance motorsports. Since its founding in 2000, the brand has focused on precision engineering and robust design. This ethos was sharpened in 2016 when the company came under the leadership of Raphael Granito. The Granito family's ownership of Dexel, a specialist in high-end bracelets and clasps, and Cadranor, a manufacturer of premium dials, brought a formidable level of vertical integration and technical expertise directly into the Formex operation, allowing for innovations that are often out of reach for brands at a similar price point.
Courtesy of Formex
The new Essence FortyOne is built around a stainless steel 316L case that measures a versatile 41mm in diameter, with a height of 10.6mm and a compact lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm. These dimensions hit a "sweet spot" that is designed to offer substantial wrist presence while remaining comfortable and wearable for a wide audience, bridging the gap between the existing 39mm and 43mm models in the Essence collection. The architecture of the case is complex, featuring a mix of finishes that create a dynamic visual effect. The top surfaces are vertically brushed, providing a tool-watch sensibility, while the sharp, sloping bevels are diamond-polished to a mirror shine, catching and reflecting light with every movement.
A signature feature of the brand, the patented Case Suspension System, is a core component of the Essence FortyOne. This system, which involves a titanium grade 2 container for the movement, allows the central part of the watch case to move independently, providing a small degree of travel. This unique construction serves a dual purpose: it significantly improves comfort by allowing the watch to adapt to the wearer's wrist movements, and it offers superior shock absorption, protecting the delicate mechanical movement within. It is a piece of practical engineering that directly enhances the daily wearing experience.
Responding directly to calls from their customer base, Formex has integrated a new screw-down crown into the Essence FortyOne. This addition increases the watch's water resistance to a confident 100 meters and adds a layer of security against accidental knocks. The engineering challenge was significant, as it required adapting the flexible Case Suspension System to accommodate a crown that needs a rigid, fixed connection to ensure a proper seal. The successful integration of this feature demonstrates a thoughtful approach to design, where functional upgrades are implemented without compromising the brand's core technologies.
Courtesy of Formex
The collection debuts with four distinct dial options, each crafted in Formex’s family-owned dial manufacture located in the Swiss Jura mountains. All dials share hallmark characteristics: precisely CNC-milled horizontal lines that provide texture and depth, and meticulously applied hour markers. These markers, along with the hands, feature brushed top surfaces and mirror-polished edges, a high-end finishing touch that aids legibility and adds visual complexity. For low-light visibility, the hands and indices are generously filled with BGW9 Super-LumiNova. A beveled date window is positioned at 6 o'clock, maintaining the dial's symmetry, and features a color-matched date wheel on each variant.
The first dial option is a classic Blue. Its surface has a distinct vertical brushing that interacts with light in a compelling way. In dimmer conditions, it can appear as a deep, dark navy, but when exposed to direct light, it transforms into a vibrant, energetic blue. This dynamic quality makes it an incredibly versatile choice, suitable for a wide range of settings and styles. It has been a bestseller in other Essence lines for good reason, offering a bold yet familiar character.
For those seeking a more expressive and unique color, the Gamaret dial offers a rich, wine-toned red. The name comes from a Swiss wine grape developed to flourish in the alpine climate, and the dial’s finish is equally special. A hand-applied gradient effect makes the center of the dial appear brighter, with the color gradually darkening as it reaches the periphery. The effect is reminiscent of swirling red wine in a glass, creating a sense of depth and warmth that is both sophisticated and eye-catching.
Courtesy of Formex
The Dégradé dial presents a warm, earthy brown with a subtle sunburst finish. Like the Gamaret, it also features a hand-applied gradient, transitioning from a lighter, almost silvery tone at its center to a near-black shade at its outer edge. This smooth gradation gives the watch an understated depth and character, blending seamlessly with the polished and brushed elements of the steel case to create a cohesive and mature aesthetic.
Completing the quartet is the Arctic White dial. This version is designed for maximum contrast and immediate legibility. The crisp white lacquered surface provides a stark background for the gunmetal-finished hands and indices. In low light, these elements read as black, but they catch the light to reveal their polished bevels and brushed facets. The clean layout, combined with the precise horizontal grooves, ensures that every indication is clear and unambiguous, offering a modern and functional look.
Powering the Essence FortyOne is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. Formex uses the highest, chronometer-grade version of this caliber, which is sent for official certification by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). This independent testing guarantees a high standard of accuracy and precision. The movement itself is fully decorated, visible through the sapphire crystal case back, and features a custom-designed skeletonized rotor and thermally blued screws, details that underscore the quality of the watch's construction. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a power reserve of approximately 41 hours.
Courtesy of Formex
One of the most significant areas of innovation is found in the stainless steel bracelet and its new clasp. Formex, leveraging its relationship with the specialists at Dexel, has completely re-engineered its micro-adjustment system. The result is a newly patented butterfly clasp that is seamlessly integrated into the bracelet's design. This new system offers three distinct positions for adjustment—0mm, 3mm, and 6mm—allowing the wearer to find the perfect fit throughout the day as their wrist expands or contracts.
The key improvement in this next-generation clasp is its on-the-fly functionality. Adjustments can now be made without opening the clasp at all, and can even be performed to tighten the bracelet. The system uses calibrated resistance, meaning it requires more force to extend the clasp than to retract it, giving the user greater control and security. Furthermore, even when fully extended, there is no visible gap at the buckle, preserving the bracelet’s clean lines and wearing comfort.
Formex’s attention to detail extends to the smallest components, including the screws used to hold the bracelet links together. The brand has moved away from the common practice of using thread-locking compounds to prevent screws from loosening over time. Instead, they developed a purpose-designed screw with an offset thread. This clever design allows the articulating part of the link to move freely while the threaded section remains securely isolated from mechanical stress. It's a small but substantive improvement that enhances the bracelet’s precision, durability, and the owner's peace of mind.
Courtesy of Formex
The versatility of the Essence FortyOne is further enhanced by a broad range of strap options and a patented Quick Release system. In addition to the steel bracelet, the watch can be paired with leather, rubber, or nylon straps. These options come equipped with Formex’s carbon fiber deployant clasp, which has its own patented gradual fine-adjustment system offering 7mm of range. The tool-free quick-release mechanism allows the owner to swap between the bracelet and any strap in seconds, completely changing the look and feel of the watch to suit any occasion.
The new Formex Essence 41mm COSC collection is available for pre-order beginning October 16th, 2025. Deliveries are scheduled to commence in mid-November 2025. The pricing is set at $1,690.00 for models on a leather, rubber, or nylon strap with the carbon fiber deployant clasp. The version on the updated stainless steel bracelet with the new micro-adjustable butterfly clasp is priced at $1,890.00. The watches can be purchased directly from the Formex online boutique as well as through select retail partners.
Case: 316L stainless steel with titanium grade 2 container. 41mm diameter, 10.6mm height, 46.5mm lug-to-lug, 22mm lug width. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance of 100 meters / 330 feet. Features a patented Case Suspension System and a new screw-down crown.
Movement: COSC-certified chronometer grade Sellita SW200-1 Automatic. Features a custom skeletonized rotor, blued screws, 26 jewels, 41-hour power reserve, and a frequency of 28,800 A/h (4 Hz).
Dial: Available in Classic Blue, Gamaret (wine-toned), Dégradé (brown gradient), and Arctic White. All dials feature CNC-milled horizontal lines, applied indices and hands filled with BGW9 Super-LumiNova, and a color-matched date wheel at 6 o'clock.
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with a newly patented micro-adjustable butterfly clasp offering 3-6mm of on-the-fly adjustment. Also available on leather, rubber, or nylon straps with a carbon fiber deployant clasp featuring a patented 7mm gradual fine-adjustment system. All options utilize a tool-free Quick Release system.
Price: $1,690.00 on strap, $1,890.00 on stainless steel bracelet.
Reference Number: 0334.1.6631 (Blue), 0334.1.6612 (Arctic White), 0334.1.6651 (Gamaret), 0334.1.6624 (Dégradé).
Notes: The watch introduces a next-generation patented micro-adjustable butterfly clasp that can be operated while closed. It also integrates a new screw-down crown that was specifically engineered to work with Formex’s patented Case Suspension System for shock absorption and comfort.