De Bethune DB28XS Kind of Blue Tourbillon

De Bethune has consistently carved its own path in the landscape of independent watchmaking, a path defined by avant-garde design, profound mechanical innovation, and an almost spiritual connection to the color blue. With the introduction of the DB28XS Kind of Blue Tourbillon, the Manufacture from L'Auberson presents a concentrated expression of its core principles. This is not merely a smaller version of an existing icon; it is a complete re-evaluation of form, light, and mechanics, meticulously scaled to a new, more universal proportion.



The color blue is inextricably linked to the identity of De Bethune. It is far more than a simple aesthetic choice; it is the result of a proprietary and mastered craft. The intense, almost electric blue that adorns the DB28XS is achieved through the natural thermal oxidation of grade 5 titanium. This process, perfected by the brand's artisans, requires an exacting control of temperature to coax a specific, stable oxide layer to the surface of the metal. The result is a hue that shifts and plays with ambient light, offering a depth and vibrancy that conventional coatings cannot replicate.



According to Denis Flageollet, the brand's co-founder and master watchmaker, this exploration of color is akin to composing music. He describes it as finding the "rhythm of light through the watch." This philosophy is evident in the DB28XS, where various finishes and textures create a symphony of blue. The watch becomes a study in how a single color, rendered through different surface treatments, can produce a rich and complex visual experience. It is a testament to the idea that materials and their interaction with light are as fundamental to watchmaking as the gears and springs within.



The dial of the DB28XS is a multi-layered architectural landscape. A prominent triangular bridge, a signature element of the DB28 collection, commands the upper portion of the dial. Its polished, blued titanium surface provides a stark, mirror-like contrast to the textures surrounding it. This central element is not just decorative; it is a structural component of the movement, exemplifying the De Bethune principle of integrating mechanics with design. Flanking this bridge are glimpses of the twin barrels that provide the watch's substantial power reserve.



A key feature of the dial's texture is the use of a "microlight" decoration on the hour ring. This modern interpretation of guilloché involves creating a pattern of fine, regular lines that disrupts the flat surface, causing it to capture and scatter light in a unique way. This technique plunges the viewer into the depths of the blue color, creating a visual effect that is both subtle and mesmerizing. Despite the monochromatic palette, legibility is maintained through the clever use of contrast. The polished, spherical hour markers stand out brilliantly against the matte, textured backdrop of the microlight pattern.



The case of the DB28XS is a masterclass in ergonomic engineering and material science. Measuring a compact 38.7 mm in diameter and a slender 8 mm in thickness, the watch is crafted entirely from polished, blued grade 5 titanium. This material choice is deliberate, prized for its high strength-to-weight ratio and hypoallergenic properties. The result is a timepiece that possesses significant visual presence yet feels remarkably light and unobtrusive on the wrist.



Integral to the watch's exceptional comfort is De Bethune’s patented floating lug system. These articulated lugs, also fashioned from blued grade 5 titanium, are not fixed to the case but pivot to perfectly conform to the curve of any wrist. This ingenious design, first patented in 2006, ensures that the watch sits flush and comfortably, regardless of the wearer's wrist size. It is a functional innovation that directly addresses wearability, proving that for De Bethune, how a watch feels is as important as how it looks and performs.



At the heart of the timepiece, positioned prominently at 6 o'clock, is the De Bethune tourbillon. This is not a conventional tourbillon designed merely for visual spectacle. The brand's approach has always been to re-engineer historical complications for the specific demands of a modern wristwatch. A watch worn on the wrist is subject to constant, erratic movements, a far more challenging environment than the stable vertical position of a pocket watch for which Abraham-Louis Breguet originally designed the mechanism.



De Bethune's solution is a tourbillon that prioritizes lightness and speed. The cage, constructed from silicon and titanium, is one of the lightest ever created, weighing a mere 0.18 grams despite being composed of 63 individual components. This minimal mass, combined with a high rotational speed—it completes a full rotation every 30 seconds—allows it to more effectively average out positional errors caused by wrist movements, contributing to superior timekeeping accuracy.



This high-performance tourbillon is integrated into a movement that operates at a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. A higher frequency means the balance wheel oscillates more quickly, which inherently provides greater stability and resistance to shocks. This combination of a fast-beating calibre and a rapid, ultra-light tourbillon represents a thoroughly modern and technically rigorous approach to achieving chronometric precision in a wristwatch.



The engine driving this complication is the mechanical hand-wound Calibre DB2009V7. A complex movement comprising 238 parts and 36 jewels, it is a showcase of the Manufacture’s numerous innovations. Despite the energy-intensive nature of a high-frequency tourbillon, the calibre provides a remarkable power reserve of five days.



This impressive endurance is made possible by a self-regulating twin barrel system, a De Bethune patent from 2004. These two barrels work in tandem to deliver a more consistent and prolonged flow of energy to the regulating organ, which is crucial for maintaining stable accuracy over the entire duration of the power reserve. The meticulous finishing and decoration of the movement components are executed by hand, adhering to the highest standards of haute horlogerie.



Further enhancing the movement's performance is the patented titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts. Developed in 2016, this component is optimized for temperature differences and has an aerodynamic profile designed to minimize air resistance. The strategic placement of the white gold masses on the exterior of the balance rim maximizes inertia, contributing to the stability and precision of the calibre.



The regulating organ is completed by another De Bethune patent from 2006: a proprietary balance spring with a flat terminal curve. The specific shape of this spring ensures that it expands and contracts in a more concentric manner, a key factor in achieving superior isochronism, which is the ability of the oscillator to maintain a consistent frequency regardless of its amplitude.



Modern materials are also strategically employed to boost efficiency. The calibre utilizes a silicon escape wheel. This component is crucial for transferring energy from the mainspring to the balance wheel. Silicon's inherent properties—low density, low friction, and anti-magnetism—mean that the escapement can run with greater efficiency and reliability over long periods.



Turning the watch over reveals a screwed-in case back, also in blued polished titanium, fitted with a double anti-reflective sapphire crystal. While not offering a full view of the movement, it provides a window onto the intricate architecture and fine finishing of the calibre’s bridges and gear train. The engraving around the periphery denotes the model reference and brand, affirming its identity.



The hands are crafted from polished titanium, their skeletonized form echoing the modern, architectural ethos of the watch. Their highly reflective surfaces provide a clear contrast against the multifaceted blue dial, ensuring that the primary function of telling time is never compromised by the complexity of the design.



Completing the watch is a supple strap, available in options such as extra-supple double-lined alligator leather or a more technical-looking fabric. The strap is fitted with a matching blued grade 5 titanium buckle, ensuring a cohesive design language and continuing the theme of lightweight comfort that defines the entire timepiece.



The DB28XS Kind of Blue Tourbillon is a powerful demonstration of Denis Flageollet's holistic approach to watchmaking. It is a coherent design where every element, from the chemical properties of the blued titanium to the aerodynamics of the balance wheel and the articulation of the lugs, has been considered in relation to the whole. It is a work of both art and science, a "rhythm of light" captured in a mechanical object.



By shrinking the diameter to a very wearable 38.7 mm, De Bethune has not diluted the impact of the DB28; it has concentrated it. This model brings the brand's bold aesthetic and profound technical substance to a wider audience, catering to those who appreciate more classical proportions without wanting to compromise on contemporary design and innovation.



The De Bethune DB28XS Kind of Blue Tourbillon is a testament to the immense skill and time invested in its creation, and as such, it is produced in limited quantities. This timepiece is aimed squarely at discerning collectors and connoisseurs of avant-garde independent watchmaking who appreciate its unique blend of art and mechanics. With a retail price of $225,000 USD, it represents a significant acquisition, reflecting the complexity of its in-house tourbillon movement, the proprietary material treatments, and the masterful hand-finishing that defines every creation from the L'Auberson Manufacture.



Case: Blued polished grade 5 titanium, 38.7 mm diameter, 8 mm thickness. Patented floating lugs. Sapphire crystal front and back with double anti-reflective coating.

Movement: Manual-wind Calibre DB2009V7. 30mm diameter, 36 jewels, 238 parts. 5-day power reserve from a twin-barrel system. High-frequency 36,000 vph (5 Hz) with a 30-second tourbillon.

Dial: Multi-layered blued grade 5 titanium with microlight and circular satin finishes. Polished hour markers and a central triangular bridge. Polished titanium hands.

Strap: Alligator leather or fabric strap with a blued polished grade 5 titanium buckle.

Price: $225,000 USD

Reference Number: DB28XSTB

Notes: Features an ultra-light 0.18-gram tourbillon made of silicon and titanium. The unique blue color is a result of natural thermal oxidation, not a coating. Patented floating lugs adapt to wrist size for superior comfort.