De Bethune DB25xs Starry Varius

De Bethune has consistently carved its own path in haute horlogerie, guided by the singular vision of its co-founder and master watchmaker, Denis Flageollet. The brand’s creations are a dialogue between the classical tenets of watchmaking and a relentless push into futuristic materials and mechanics. With the introduction of the DB25xs Starry Varius, this conversation takes on a new, fiery tone. The watch is not just a scaled-down version of its predecessors; it is a complete re-evaluation of the celestial theme that has become a hallmark of the manufacture, presenting a cosmos colored by terrestrial fire.



The core inspiration for this new timepiece is described as "volcanic effervescence." This concept moves away from the cool, deep blues of a tranquil night sky and instead imagines a celestial canopy illuminated from below by the raw power of the earth. The dial is meant to reflect the atmosphere above an erupting volcano, where the heavens are stained red and orange by flowing lava and superheated gas. This thematic choice is a bold departure, infusing the watch with a warmth and intensity that sets it apart within the De Bethune collection and the broader landscape of astronomically inspired timepieces.



This dramatic vision is realized on a dial base of polished grade 5 titanium. The artisans at the De Bethune workshops in L'Auberson employ a unique thermal oxidation process to achieve the specific burgundy hue. This is not a simple coating or lacquer; the color is born from the metal itself, a result of carefully controlled heating that alters the surface structure of the titanium. The process is precise and difficult to master, yielding a deep, rich color that shifts with the light, much like a sky filled with atmospheric particles. The mirror-polished finish adds a liquid depth, making the celestial display seem to float within the case.



Upon this cosmic canvas, a personal universe is created. The stars are not painted but are individually hand-fitted white gold pins. Each pin is set into a micro-perforation, with varying diameters to mimic the different magnitudes of stars in the night sky. This meticulous process brings a tangible, three-dimensional quality to the starfield. Furthermore, like all De Bethune starlit dials, this new sky can be customized for a specific geographical location and date, allowing an owner to capture a cherished moment in time and space on their wrist.



Adding another layer of celestial artistry is the depiction of the Milky Way. This is achieved through a combination of modern and traditional techniques. The galactic swirl is first etched onto the titanium dial using laser-beam micro-milling, creating a delicate, textured pattern. This pattern is then painstakingly gilded with 24-carat gold leaf. The result is a shimmering, granular river of gold that flows across the burgundy sky, contrasting beautifully with the sharp, bright points of the white gold stars and adding a sense of cosmic scale and texture.



Framing this nocturnal scene is a silver-toned hours and minutes ring. This serves as a clean, classical counterpoint to the dramatic dial center. The chapter ring features applied, polished rose gold hour-markers that provide a warm metallic accent, tying the design together with the hands and, in one version, the case. Roman numerals are used for the main hours, lending a traditional touch to the otherwise futuristic display. The hands are crafted from hand-polished rose gold, featuring a sophisticated shape with open-worked circles near the tips, ensuring they indicate the time clearly without obscuring the view of the celestial artwork beneath.



For years, the DB25 collection has been known for its substantial presence. The original models measured 44 mm, later refined to 42 mm. The new DB25xs Starry Varius marks a significant evolution with a new case diameter of 40.6 mm. This reduction in size was not a simple matter of scaling down the existing design. According to Denis Flageollet, the entire aesthetic balance had to be re-engineered. A key priority was maintaining a wide dial aperture, ensuring the observer could be fully immersed in the star-studded sky, thereby preserving the powerful visual impact of the Starry Varius.



The result of this redesign is a case that is not only more accessible to a wider range of wrist sizes but also possesses a refined and concentrated presence. The 8.8 mm thickness further enhances its wearability, allowing it to sit comfortably on the wrist. This contemporary case design is distinguished by its signature integrated and hollowed lugs. These slender, curving forms are open-worked, reducing visual mass and creating a sense of lightness. The ogive-shaped tips of the lugs are a subtle but important detail, emphasizing the roundness of the case and ensuring the strap integrates seamlessly for a comfortable fit.



The DB25xs Starry Varius is offered in two distinct case materials. The first is a more classic and luxurious version in polished 5N rose gold. The warm tones of the gold complement the burgundy dial and rose gold hands and markers, creating a harmonious and rich aesthetic. The second version features a case made from polished grade 5 titanium. This option offers an ultra-lightweight experience on the wrist and a modern, technical feel. The cool grey of the titanium provides a striking contrast to the warm dial, highlighting its fiery colors.



Both versions are fitted with a sapphire crystal that has been treated with a double anti-reflective coating to minimize glare and provide a clear view of the detailed dial work. The crystal itself is exceptionally hard, rated at 1800 Vickers, ensuring a high degree of scratch resistance. This attention to durability extends to the case back, which is also protected by a sapphire crystal, inviting inspection of the mechanical calibre within.



Visible through the exhibition case back is the Calibre DB2005, a mechanical manual-winding movement that showcases the manufacture's commitment to technical innovation. It is composed of 160 parts and runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The architecture of the movement is immediately striking, with a large, sharply angled bridge that is a hallmark of De Bethune's contemporary aesthetic.



A key feature of the DB2005 is its impressive 6-day power reserve. This is made possible by a self-regulating twin barrel system, an innovation patented by De Bethune in 2004. This system not only provides a long duration of autonomy but also ensures a more stable and consistent delivery of energy to the regulating organ, which is crucial for maintaining accurate timekeeping as the mainsprings unwind.



The regulating organ itself is a concentration of De Bethune's most advanced research. The calibre incorporates the manufacture's latest patented titanium balance wheel, first introduced in 2016. This component features white gold inserts placed on its outer rim, a design optimized to reduce the effects of temperature variations and improve air penetration, leading to more stable performance. The choice of titanium makes the balance wheel lighter, reducing its inertia and energy consumption.



Paired with the advanced balance wheel is the "De Bethune" balance spring. Patented in 2006, this hairspring features a unique flat terminal curve. This special shape helps to ensure the concentric development of the spring, which improves isochronism and, consequently, the overall precision of the watch. The escapement also features modern materials, utilizing a silicon escape wheel, which is lightweight, anti-magnetic, and requires less lubrication.



De Bethune's focus on practicality and durability is further evidenced by the inclusion of its Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. This innovation, from 2005, provides enhanced protection for the balance staff, the most delicate part of the movement. It utilizes a bridge held in place by a spring-based system to absorb and dissipate the energy from impacts, making the watch more robust for everyday wear.



The finishing of the Calibre DB2005 is executed to the highest standards of watchmaking, yet with a distinctly modern flair. The silver plate and barrel bridge cover are adorned with "Côtes De Bethune," the brand's proprietary take on the traditional Côtes de Genève stripes, executed by Denis Flageollet himself. The barrels feature a hand-snailed pattern, and all steel parts are meticulously hand-polished and chamfered, creating a beautiful play of light across the movement's surfaces.



The rose gold version of the watch, reference DB25VxsRV2, presents a cohesive and warm palette. The polished 5N rose gold of the case, lugs, hands, and hour markers creates a unified aesthetic that enhances the rich tones of the burgundy dial. It is a piece that speaks to a more traditional sense of luxury while housing thoroughly modern technology.



The titanium model, reference DB25VxsTiV2, offers a different character. The polished grade 5 titanium case is sleek and contemporary. Its cooler metallic sheen creates a dynamic contrast with the warm dial and rose gold accents. This version emphasizes the technical prowess and futuristic design language of De Bethune, offering a lightweight and understated, yet visually striking, presence on the wrist.



Denis Flageollet's philosophy is woven into every component of this watch. He has stated, "Shaping 21st-century watchmaking in the finest watchmaking tradition means constantly rethinking the craft, developing it by modifying an element, a process or a technique, as well as sometimes making tiny, often imperceptible but necessary improvements to push the boundaries of mechanics with precision, reliability and finesse." The DB25xs Starry Varius is a direct expression of this ethos, where every element, from the case size to the balance wheel, has been re-evaluated and optimized.



Each version of the DB25xs Starry Varius is completed with an extra-supple alligator leather strap that complements the watch's color scheme. The strap is designed to integrate perfectly with the distinctive hollowed lugs, ensuring maximum comfort for the wearer. This final detail underscores the brand's holistic approach to design, where every aspect of the timepiece is considered to create a complete and satisfying experience.



The De Bethune DB25xs Starry Varius represents a compelling new chapter for one of the brand's most iconic collections. By reducing the size and introducing a dramatic new dial concept, the manufacture has created a watch that is both more wearable and more evocative than ever before. It is a piece that combines astronomical poetry with cutting-edge chronometric science, all presented with the impeccable craftsmanship that defines De Bethune. The titanium model is priced at $80,000, while the rose gold version is set at $85,000. For specific availability, prospective clients should contact authorized De Bethune retailers.



Case: Polished 5N rose gold or polished grade 5 titanium; 40.6 mm diameter; 8.8 mm thickness; integrated, hollowed lugs; sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers) with double anti-reflective coating; open case back in polished grade 5 titanium with sapphire crystal.

Movement: Calibre DB2005 mechanical manual-winding; 6-day power reserve from a self-regulating twin barrel; 28,800 vph frequency; 27 jewels; 160 parts; features De Bethune patented titanium balance wheel, flat terminal curve balance-spring, and triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system.

Dial: De Bethune star-studded sky in burgundy polished titanium; stars are hand-fitted white gold pins; Milky Way created with laser beam micro milling and gilded with 24-carat gold leaf; silver-toned hours/minutes ring with polished rose gold hour-markers; hand-polished rose gold hands.

Strap: Extra-supple double alligator leather strap.

Price: $80,000 (Titanium); $85,000 (Rose Gold).

Reference Number: DB25VxsTiV2 (Titanium); DB25VxsRV2 (Rose Gold).

Notes: The unique burgundy dial color is achieved by thermally oxidizing the titanium base. The starry sky dial can be personalized to show the celestial map from a specific date and location. The watch was unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025.