The revival of the Daniel Roth brand has been one of the most closely watched narratives in modern independent watchmaking, largely because it promised a return to a very specific, idiosyncratic aesthetic that defined a significant era of the 1990s. With the introduction of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, the brand has taken a deliberate step away from strictly reissuing archival classics and moved toward a new phase of evolution. This timepiece represents a shift from preservation to interpretation, applying the rigorous standards of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to a concept that the founder, Daniel Roth, explored only tentatively during his tenure. The watch maintains the double-ellipse geometry that serves as the brand’s visual signature, but it evacuates the dial to reveal a mechanical landscape that is both technically dense and visually airy.
The case itself is a study in complex geometry, rendered in 18k 5N rose gold. It measures 38.6mm by 35.5mm, dimensions that might read as modest on paper but translate into a substantial presence on the wrist due to the unique footprint of the design. The double-ellipse shape—essentially a circle truncated by straight lines at the flanks—creates a visual tension that circular watches simply cannot replicate. In this skeletonized iteration, the case serves less as a container and more as a frame for the movement. The precious metal is polished to a high sheen, creating a lustrous border that contrasts with the intricate depths of the openworked mechanism within. The height of the case is a mere 6.9mm, a specification that qualifies it as an ultra-thin timepiece, ensuring it slips easily under a shirt cuff while retaining enough architectural depth to feel significant.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
At the heart of this release is the Calibre DR002SR, a manually wound movement developed specifically for this skeletonized application. It is not merely a standard movement with material removed; rather, the architecture was conceived from the ground up to support the openworked aesthetic. The choice of material for the movement bridges and plates is particularly noteworthy: solid 18k 5N rose gold. Using gold for the functional structure of a movement is a rare and daring choice in watchmaking because gold is softer and more difficult to machine than traditional brass or German silver. It requires a level of manufacturing precision that allows no room for error, as the material behaves differently under the stress of assembly and operation. The result, however, is a monochromatic harmony where the case and the movement appear to be carved from a single block of metal, separated only by the fineness of the finishing.
The visual experience of the dial—or rather, the absence of one—is dominated by the interplay of arcs and straight lines that mimic the case shape. At the twelve o'clock position, a prominent bridge arches over the mainspring barrel, bearing the Daniel Roth wordmark in blue lacquer. This bridge anchors the visual hierarchy, drawing the eye immediately to the top of the vertical axis. Below it, the gear train descends in a calculated cascade, revealing the transmission of energy from the barrel to the escapement. The use of blued steel hands provides the necessary contrast against the warm backdrop of the rose gold movement. These hands are slender and sharp, cutting across the complex background with enough definition to make time-telling legible despite the lack of a traditional dial surface.
Skeletonization is often described as an exercise in reduction, but in the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, it feels more like an exercise in revelation. The removal of material exposes the breathing heart of the watch, specifically the balance wheel oscillating at 4 Hertz. The layout of the bridges has been designed to maximize transparency, allowing light to pass through the movement and creating a silhouette that changes depending on the angle of view. When held against the light, the watch seems to float within the bounds of its sapphire crystals. The flat anti-reflection sapphire crystal on the front ensures that this view remains undistorted, while the exhibition caseback offers a reverse perspective that is equally detailed, showing the flip side of the gear train and the winding mechanism.
The finishing of the movement components is where the hand of the artisan becomes most apparent. Every edge of the gold bridges is beveled and polished, a technique known as chamfering or anglage. In a skeletonized movement, the total length of these edges is immense compared to a standard movement, exponentially increasing the hours of hand-finishing required. The internal angles—where two chamfers meet at a sharp inner point—are particularly indicative of manual craft, as these cannot be created by CNC machines or polishing wheels. They require a human hand using traditional tools to file and burnish the metal into a crisp intersection. The contrast between the brushed surfaces of the bridges and the mirror-polished bevels creates a play of light that defines the three-dimensional structure of the calibre.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
While the original Extra Plat was a staple of Daniel Roth’s early production, it was rarely subjected to skeletonization. The founder preferred the tourbillon for his openworked pieces, leaving the ultra-thin models as exercises in restraint and closed dials. This new release, therefore, imagines a parallel history where the brand pushed the Extra Plat into the realm of high craft skeletonization earlier in its lineage. It respects the dimensions and the spirit of the original but executes it with modern manufacturing capabilities that likely were not available three decades ago. The rigidity of the gold movement, for instance, is a triumph of modern engineering, ensuring that despite the removal of so much material, the chronometric performance remains stable.
The watch is secured to the wrist by a calfskin leather strap, which appears in a soft, textured grey-taupe hue that complements the rose gold tones without overwhelming them. The lug width is a standard 20mm, but the way the strap integrates into the straight flanks of the case is distinctly Daniel Roth. The lugs are short and curved, soldered directly to the case middle, allowing the strap to drop sharply and hug the wrist. This construction is crucial for the wearability of a double-ellipse watch, as it prevents the case from overhanging on smaller wrists. The strap is finished with a pin buckle, maintaining the classical feel of a dress watch.
Mechanically, the Calibre DR002SR is a robust performer despite its delicate appearance. It offers a power reserve of 65 hours, a significant figure for an ultra-thin, manually wound movement. This means the wearer can leave the watch off the wrist for nearly three days without it stopping. The movement consists of 141 components and runs on 21 jewels. The balance wheel is free-sprung, a feature that generally offers better long-term timing stability and shock resistance compared to a regulated balance. This suggests that while the watch is undeniably an object of art, it is also built to be a reliable timekeeper for daily wear, provided one respects its lack of significant water resistance (rated to 30 meters).
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
The collaboration between the revival team and La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is evident in the execution of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the master watchmakers overseeing the production, have a long history with the Daniel Roth aesthetic. Their approach here balances the need for structural integrity with the desire for aesthetic lightness. They have managed to create a movement that feels airy and fragile in its beauty but is constructed with the solidity required of a luxury timepiece. The black-polished steel screws and components scattered throughout the movement provide small, punctuated contrasts to the overwhelming warmth of the gold, serving as visual anchors in the sea of openwork.
The decision to use a sapphire dial for the chapter ring or markers is eschewed here in favor of complete openness. The time is read by the position of the hands relative to the structural elements of the movement. This requires a certain familiarity with the watch, as there are no numerals to guide the eye. However, the layout is intuitive enough that the position of the bridges serves as hour markers of a sort. The "Daniel Roth" bridge sits at twelve, the balance wheel assembly anchors the six o'clock region, and the various wheels and gears fill the space in between. It is a design that rewards close inspection, inviting the wearer to trace the flow of power from the ratchet wheel to the escape wheel.
The profile of the watch is exceptionally slender, a characteristic that defines the "Extra Plat" (ultra-flat) nomenclature. Achieving this thinness in a skeletonized watch is challenging because there is less material to support the vertical load of the gear train pivots. The engineers had to ensure that the tolerances were incredibly tight to prevent any warping of the bridges that could bind the gears. The use of a solid gold baseplate adds a layer of difficulty, as gold has different thermal expansion properties and elasticity compared to brass. The success of the DR002SR lies in its ability to handle these constraints while delivering a movement that looks effortless.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
In the broader context of the watch market, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton occupies a niche for collectors who appreciate the history of independent watchmaking but demand the finish and reliability of a modern manufacture. It avoids the aggressive, futuristic styling of many modern skeleton watches, opting instead for a look that is rooted in classical horology. The curves of the case are soft and continuous, disrupting the light in a way that feels organic rather than industrial. The sapphire crystal on the front is flat, which helps to keep the overall height down and offers a distortion-free view of the dial side, unlike domed crystals which can sometimes obscure the outer edges of a movement.
The crown of the watch is another detail that has been carefully considered. It features the signature fluting that provides a tactile grip for winding. Since this is a manual-wind watch, the interaction with the crown is a daily ritual. The resistance of the mainspring, the click of the ratchet, and the smooth rotation of the stem are all tactile feedback points that connect the user to the mechanism. The crown is positioned at three o'clock and is proportional to the case, neither too small to handle nor so large that it disrupts the silhouette.
The exclusivity of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is guaranteed not just by its price but by the limitations of its production. Creating a movement out of solid gold and finishing it to this standard is a time-consuming process that cannot be hurried. Each internal angle represents hours of work by a skilled finisher. Consequently, the watch will be produced in very limited numbers, ensuring that it remains a rare sight. It appeals to a collector who understands the nuance of the Daniel Roth legacy—the mixture of British-inspired classicism and Swiss manufacturing rigor that defined the brand’s early years.
Comparing this to the standard closed-dial versions of the Extra Plat, the Skeleton offers a completely different personality. The closed-dial versions are understated, almost shy, hiding their mechanical prowess behind a solid face. The Skeleton is extroverted, proudly displaying its inner workings. It transforms the watch from a dress accessory into a conversation piece. The transparency allows one to see the interplay of the click spring, the motion works, and the keyless works, components that are usually hidden. It is an educational tool as much as it is a piece of jewelry, demystifying the magic of mechanical timekeeping.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
The darker tones of the strap provide a grounding element to the brightness of the rose gold. A black strap might have been too stark, and a brown strap too traditional. The grey-taupe shade chosen here feels contemporary and sophisticated, bridging the gap between vintage charm and modern style. It also highlights the blued hands, picking up on the cooler tones in the spectrum to balance the warmth of the case. The texture of the calfskin is fine-grained, adding another layer of tactile detail to the watch.
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is scheduled for release in January 2026. It carries a retail price of 85,000 CHF. Given the complexity of the solid gold movement and the extensive hand-finishing involved, production will be naturally limited by the capacity of the manufacture. Collectors interested in acquiring this piece will likely need to engage directly with the brand or its authorized partners, as availability is expected to be scarce relative to the demand for high-end independent horology of this caliber.
Case: 18k 5N rose gold material, double-ellipse shape. Dimensions 38.6mm x 35.5mm, thickness 6.9mm. Flat anti-reflection sapphire crystal front, sapphire crystal caseback. Water resistant to 30 meters.
Movement: Calibre DR002SR manufacture manual winding, developed at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Solid 18k 5N rose gold bridges and plates. Frequency 4 Hz, power reserve 65 hours. 141 components, 21 jewels. Dimensions 31mm x 28mm, thickness 3.1mm.
Dial: Openworked skeletonized design with blued steel hands.
Strap: Calfskin leather. Lug width 20mm.
Price: 85,000 CHF
Notes: First skeletonized version of the Extra Plat model, as Daniel Roth did not skeletonize this reference during the brand's founding era. Movement architecture specifically redesigned for transparency with hand-finished internal angles.