Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold

The watchmaking landscape has seen figures who not only create timepieces but also sculpt a distinct identity within the craft. Daniel Roth is one such individual, a master watchmaker who, in 1988, embarked on a journey to establish a brand that would soon be recognized for its unique blend of mechanical ingenuity and a characteristic design language. His formative years at esteemed houses like Audemars Piguet and Breguet imbued him with a profound understanding of complex mechanisms, with a particular affinity for the tourbillon. This passion drove him to design a case that would not merely house the movement but would celebrate the tourbillon, making it an integral part of the watch's technical and visual narrative. The resultant double-ellipse case became an enduring signature, a testament to his innovative spirit and his dedication to reviving traditional craftsmanship through a lens of understated design.

Following a period of quietude, the Daniel Roth name has re-emerged, an event marked in 2023 with the infusion of support from La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This revival is not a mere reanimation of a dormant brand but a conscientious effort to uphold the foundational principles laid by its founder. The renewed Daniel Roth entity is committed to its deep roots in high-quality watchmaking, aiming to honor the original legacy while judiciously incorporating contemporary advancements. Each new timepiece is intended to be a reflection of the brand's core DNA, emphasizing mechanical precision and a refined aesthetic, thereby continuing its reputation for outstanding craftsmanship. The revival commenced fittingly with the tourbillon, Mr. Roth’s favored complication, initially presented as a limited Souscription series in yellow gold, and subsequently in a rose gold iteration, featuring the in-house developed DR001 movement and distinguished by meticulous hand-finishing and solid gold Clou de Paris guilloché dials.



Building on this revitalized foundation, the brand introduces the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold. This model resonates with the brand's inception in the 1990s and directly references Mr. Roth's known appreciation for ultra-thin dress watches. The concept of an exceptionally slim timepiece was something the master watchmaker had envisioned in the 1980s, though the first Extra Plat Automatic model only materialized in 1990, a year after the launch of his seminal Tourbillon C187. The new Extra Plat Rose Gold continues this lineage, powered by the Calibre DR002, a movement also developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the guidance of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who also oversaw the DR001.

At the heart of the Extra Plat Rose Gold's visual identity is its distinctive double-ellipse case. This signature form, a hallmark of Daniel Roth, has been thoughtfully refined for this model to achieve an even slimmer profile. Measuring a mere 7.7mm in thickness, the case presents an exceedingly slender and sophisticated wrist presence. This reduction in height enhances the watch's wearability as a dress piece, allowing it to sit comfortably and unobtrusively. The case itself is crafted from 5N rose gold, a specific alloy known for its warm, reddish hue that lends a contemporary feel while retaining a connection to classical precious metal watchmaking.

The dimensions of the case are 35.5mm in width and 38.6mm in length, proportions that are identical to the preceding Extra Plat Souscription model. These measurements ensure that the watch, while slim, maintains a noticeable presence. Particular attention has been paid to the lugs, which have been redesigned with softer, more flowing curves and a distinct downward angle. This ergonomic consideration aims to improve the fit on the wrist, ensuring that the unique case shape conforms comfortably to the wearer's anatomy. The case construction adheres to traditional horological methods, with each lug being fabricated as a separate component and then meticulously hand-soldered to the case body, one by one, a testament to the detailed craftsmanship involved. A subtle yet significant detail is the centered gadroon that runs along the case profile, contributing to its balanced aesthetic.



The choice of 5N rose gold for the case material significantly contributes to the watch's overall character. This alloy, with its specific copper content, imparts a rich, warm coloration that is both modern and inviting. Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of Daniel Roth, describes rose gold as "a luminous and captivating precious metal, offering a contemporary allure while remaining deeply rooted in classical watchmaking." This sentiment captures the dual nature of the material, bridging the gap between time-honored craftsmanship and present-day sensibilities. The polished surfaces of the rose gold case interact beautifully with light, highlighting the unique curves of the double-ellipse shape and the careful finishing of its surfaces.

The dial of the Extra Plat Rose Gold is a study in refined detail and material contrast. It is a two-tone affair, featuring a base made from solid white gold. This provides a cool, bright canvas for the intricate decorative work. The chapter ring, which delineates the hours and minutes, is rendered in 5N rose gold, creating a harmonious link with the case material. The surface of the white gold dial is adorned with a handcrafted "guillochage en ligne," or pinstripe guilloché. This traditional decorative technique involves engraving fine, straight lines onto the metal, creating a subtle texture that plays with light and adds depth to the dial's appearance. An elegant filet sauté border frames this intricate pinstripe pattern, adding another layer of classical detailing.

Legibility is ensured by black-coated stainless steel hands, their dark forms providing a clear contrast against the lighter dial background. The hour markers are classic Roman numerals, presented in a black font that matches the hands and the individually inscribed watch number, a unique identifier for each piece. The overall effect of the dial is one of quiet sophistication, where traditional techniques meet a clean, almost architectural layout. The contrast between the crispness of the white gold dial and the warmth of the 5N rose gold case and chapter ring creates a visually engaging and balanced composition, embodying the synthesis of Swiss watchmaking tradition and contemporary design. The dial appears relatively uncluttered, with the "DANIEL ROTH" brand name subtly placed above the central pinion, and "NUMERO XX" indicating its unique edition number below, all within the rose gold chapter ring. The slender, dark hands sweep across the finely textured pinstripe background, with the Roman numerals clearly marking the hours.

Driving the Extra Plat Rose Gold is the newly developed Calibre DR002. This manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding was specifically created from the ground up for the Extra Plat collection, signaling its importance as a foundational movement for potential future complications within this line. While it maintains visual cues reminiscent of the earlier DR001 Tourbillon calibre, the DR002 is an entirely distinct engineering achievement. Its development and assembly were undertaken at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, under the meticulous supervision of Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, ensuring a pedigree of high-level horological expertise.



The Calibre DR002 is designed not only for performance but also for aesthetic appreciation. The form of the movement itself mirrors the double-ellipse shape of the watch case, a thoughtful design choice that demonstrates a holistic approach to watchmaking, where the internal mechanics are in harmony with the external form. This is a characteristic that often distinguishes high-end, manufacture movements. The open case back of the Extra Plat Rose Gold provides an unobstructed view of this carefully constructed calibre, allowing admiration of its intricate details and fine finishing. The layout features classic influences, such as the use of large wheels that occupy the available space efficiently and aesthetically, and the flowing lines of its bridges, which are finished with hand-polished bevels.

From a technical standpoint, the DR002 incorporates several modern advancements. The redesigned oscillating system now operates at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour). This relatively high frequency is often associated with improved timekeeping stability and precision. A notable feature designed to enhance the user's tactile experience is a newly engineered bar click for the winding mechanism. This component has been crafted to deliver a "satisfyingly crisp sensation" when the watch is manually wound, a subtle detail that speaks to the level of refinement sought by the watchmakers. The winding bar click itself is handcrafted as a single piece, contributing not only to the tactile feel but also to the visual beauty of the movement.

Further technical sophistication is evident in the balance wheel design. The 4Hz balance wheel is free-sprung and features four arms, each equipped with a variable inertia weight. This type of balance system allows for very fine regulation and is generally considered to be more stable over extended periods compared to traditional regulated balances. This commitment to chronometric performance is a key aspect of Haute Horlogerie. Powering the movement is a large single mainspring, which provides an impressive power reserve of approximately 65 hours. This allows the watch to run for nearly three days on a full wind, offering practical convenience for the wearer, especially if the watch is not worn daily.

The dimensions of the Calibre DR002 are 31mm by 28mm, with a remarkable thinness of just 3.1mm. This slim profile is crucial in enabling the overall svelte dimensions of the Extra Plat watch. The movement is comprised of 143 components and incorporates 21 jewels, which serve to reduce friction at critical points within the gear train and escapement, contributing to longevity and consistent performance. The careful finishing of every component, even those not immediately visible, is a hallmark of this calibre. The open caseback reveals the thoughtful architecture of the movement, with the jewels set in their recesses, the polished screw heads, and the purposeful arrangement of the gears and bridges creating a miniature mechanical landscape. The large wheels are prominent, and the overall shape echoes the case's unique contours.



Michel Navas, one of the master watchmakers behind the calibre, states, "We have always adhered to traditional watchmaking principles, ensuring every detail is meticulously crafted. The calibre DR002 is a testament to this commitment and embodies the essence of Haute Horlogerie." Enrico Barbasini adds, "With a deep respect for Daniel’s vision, we designed the calibre DR002 with the goal of maintaining exceptional quality while integrating modern advancements." These statements underscore the philosophy guiding the movement's creation: a deep reverence for traditional methods combined with an embrace of technological progress to achieve superior quality and performance.

The strap accompanying the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold is crafted from calfskin leather, selected to complement the watch's refined character. It attaches to the case via lugs with a width of 20mm, a standard size that offers some versatility for strap changes, though the supplied strap is designed to integrate seamlessly with the watch's aesthetic. The leather is likely to be of high quality, offering comfort and durability, and its texture and color would be chosen to harmonize with the warm tones of the 5N rose gold case. The visual presentation of the watch shows a light, possibly beige or taupe, leather strap with minimal stitching, further enhancing its understated profile and focusing attention on the distinctive case and dial.

The water resistance of the case is rated at 30 meters. While this does not make it suitable for swimming or diving, it offers adequate protection against everyday encounters with moisture, such as splashes or rain, which is typical and appropriate for a dress watch of this nature. The primary focus of the Extra Plat is on its slim profile and mechanical artistry rather than robust water-proofing.

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold represents a significant step in the brand's ongoing revival. It successfully channels the spirit of Mr. Roth's original vision for ultra-thin timepieces, particularly his appreciation for the unique double-ellipse case form. The careful consideration of materials, from the 5N rose gold of the case and chapter ring to the solid white gold of the dial base, creates a rich yet subtle interplay of colors and textures. The pinstripe guilloché is a nod to classical watchmaking decoration, executed with precision.

The development of the Calibre DR002 specifically for this collection underscores a commitment to in-house mechanical capability and serves as a robust platform for the brand's future. The combination of its slimness, substantial power reserve, and refined finishing, all visible through the open case back, makes the movement a central attraction. The attention to tactile details, like the winding click, further elevates the ownership experience.



This timepiece is a clear statement of intent from the revived Daniel Roth brand, demonstrating a dedication to continuing the legacy of its founder through meticulously crafted watches that blend traditional Swiss high watchmaking with a distinct and contemporary sensibility. The overall visual is one of measured restraint and careful execution, where the unique case shape is allowed to shine, complemented by a dial that is both intricate and legible. The slimness of the watch is a key feature, making it an appealing proposition for those who value discretion and comfort in a dress watch.

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold is positioned as a high-end timepiece, reflecting the craftsmanship, materials, and in-house movement development involved. The watch is priced at 49,000CHF (excluding taxes). Given the limited production nature often associated with revived heritage brands focusing on high craftsmanship, and the individual numbering of each piece, availability is likely to be through select authorized retailers or directly from the brand.

Case: Material Rose gold 5N. Dimensions 38.6 mm x 35.5 mm. Thickness 7.7 mm. Water resistance 30 m. Signature double-ellipse case; redesigned lugs with softer curves and downward angle.

Movement: Calibre DR002. Manufacture mechanical movement, manual winding. Developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Power reserve approx. 65 hours. Frequency 4 Hz. Dimensions 31 mm x 28 mm; thickness 3.1 mm. 143 components, 21 jewels. Redesigned oscillating system; newly engineered bar click.

Dial: Material Rose gold 5N & White gold. Finish Pinstripes guilloché ("guillochage en ligne") on solid white gold; rose gold 5N chapter ring. Filet sauté border. Black-coated stainless steel hands; black Roman numerals; individual watch number.

Strap: Lug width 20 mm. Material Calfskin leather.

Price: 49,000 CHF (Excl. taxes).

Reference Number: Notes: Echoes Mr. Roth's preference for ultra-thin watches. Calibre DR002 developed ground-up for Extra Plat collection; form movement mirrors double-ellipse case. Lugs are separate pieces, hand-soldered to case.